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JustChou

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Posts posted by JustChou

  1. Hey guys,

     

    I have a 95ish LT1 out of a Chevy Caprice and a T5 which is missing it's TAG (it has a hydraulic slave setup and a Camaro bellhousing), and I'm trying to purchase a clutch/flywheel combination that will work for both. Unfortunately, I really need to figure this out quickly because the motor is sitting in the machine shop waiting for a rotating assembly balance. How do I identify the transmission, and for which applications do I purchase the clutch/flywheel?

     

    Thanks sooo much,

    Justin

  2. Yes, but someday your kids or your friends' kids might say "I want my cancer-less lungs back" or "I want my fresh drinking water back." Which is more important?

     

    I agree with the above post. Sooner or later, something has to be done about polluting cars. Don't get me wrong, I have a 74 Z that I hope will never see a smog check, but the problem isn't the Z community, the problem is all the older cars that haven't been tuned up in 25 years that are still being driven on a daily basis. Someone has to take these POS' off the road...and the only way to do it is to legislate on it. Now, if we can do this in a way that protects enthusiasts' interests, I'm all for it, but until then, we will have to compromise.

  3. Hello all-

     

    I've been tearing down the LT1 that I'm eventually going to be swapping into the Z, and everything went pretty smoothly until I started pulling off the crankshaft pulley. The actually balancer/pully came off nicely (tap tap with a hammer, turn, tap tap, turn, tap tap, etc) but I can't get the little hub off for the life of me (yes, I've loosened the hardened bolt in the middle).

     

    I have a claw-style puller which seems like it should pull it off nicely, but I'm never able to get the screw perfectly perpendicular, and even when it's close the hub doesn't show any signs of coming off! What can I do?

     

    Thanks in advance!

    Justin

  4. Hello all,

     

    I'm proud to say that I've now joined the ranks of Z owners, having picked up a 260Z a few days ago for a project car.

     

    In the process of trying to decide whether I should attempt to get the car running with the L26 in it, I decided to do a compression check, and got some strange results that I'm hoping you can help me interpret.

     

    As measured from the radiator, they're as follows:

     

    132 - 120 - 150 - 136 - 135 - 124 - radiator>

     

    Now, they seem fairlyl in the zone, save the freakishly high compression in cylender 4. Now, I don't know whether that means that cylender four is healthy while the rest are crapping out, or if there's something wrong with No. 4.

     

    The other strange indicator is that the engine doesn't turn over smoothly - it seems to "stall" every time cylender 3 is compressed. It makes a sound like...whiirr cachunk whiiiiiir cachunk (pardon my terrible iforum onomonopia).

     

    In addition to that, I'm not sure how exactly to do a compression check - do I crank the motor several times over (which usually gives me increased compression with every turn, then it tapers off) or just once?

     

    Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.

  5. I'm currently driving a Honda CRX Si for street and autocross, and the engine gets virtually no power until 4500ish RPM. While this may satisfy some, it left me with something to be desired.

    Therein lies the problem. BAD comparison. By my calculations, I am willing to bet a 300hp SR20DET (mild mods) has more than twice the torque of that Honda N/A!

     

    Hehe good call...

  6. SR20's are great engines, but considering that the engine bay is big enough to throw in something with a bigger displacement, why not?

    This is a classic case where size IS NOT everything. How many "bigger displacement" street-driven Zs on this forum can match the performance of that SR20-powered 3rd-gen RX-7 (11.1 @ 126)? You only need one hand to count and you will have a couple of fingers left over. And, that RX-7 is heavier than an early 240Z would be with the SR20.

     

    Granted such a setup requires a different driving technique than a V-8, but lag is what you make it and unfortunately, too many unknowingly pick the wrong combo and end up with lag and compaints about turbo setups. A well setup SR20 in a lightweight 240Z will perform well and surprise you of the driveability and torque. Any well setup turbo engine will have the torque to melt tires and break things. Sigh! OK, I have to go now. I need to pull my broken diff :D

     

    But, you have to admit, this "driving style" has to be taken into account, depending on application. I'm currently driving a Honda CRX Si for street and autocross, and the engine gets virtually no power until 4500ish RPM. While this may satisfy some, it left me with something to be desired. I guess it's a case by case basis though...all I know is that I'll be looking for something with a little more grunt down low for my next ride.

  7. I don't know...SR20's are great engines, but considering that the engine bay is big enough to throw in something with a bigger displacement, why not?

     

    Plus, you should take into account powerbands. An SR20DET running mean boost will be much peakier than something bigger pumping out similar power.

     

    For a while, I considered throwing an SR20DET into a Datsun 510, but then I saw some dynos and was convinced otherwise.

     

    [shrug] It's your car. Go for it.

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