JustChou

I used the Z8 crossmember design (the post is stickied to the top of this forum). Oddly enough, the length between framerails on my 280Z was different from the 240Z from that site. If I did it again I would have cut 1/4" out of the middle.

I know this isn't the classifieds forum, but since us blue oval guys have such a small presence on this forum, I thought I would cross post it. If it is inappropriate, mods, please feel free to remove this post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155975 I hope someone in the forum buys it, so we can keep it in the family!

You can rest easy, friend. Check out the right of the picture of my '85 block

Are you talking about the feed nipple? I am running 5/16" hose off of the nipple to the pump, then -6 from the pump to the rail. I was also running this setup with my carb and it ran fine. If you're running 1/2" hard line, you should be just fine at 300 whp.

I've got lots of wheel hop too. I'm hoping it will be corrected when I do new springs, struts, and bushings in the rear. My struts might be older than I am.

You will likely have to get a little hand pump to pump ATF or whatever you use into the trans. Check the manual for fluid recommendations. Please drain the oil into a pan and bring it to a local oil changer for recycling. They are required by law to take it free of charge.

Thanks Mike, I'll take a look after the rain dies down over here in the Bay. PS. I just took a look at your car domain. Great job painting your engine bay. Are you running A/C? That is AWESOME. I love your car and the fact that you have two yellow Z's from different eras.

I have the same problem as the member above. What do you suggest we look for? I don't recall there being any vacuum lines around the right shock tower but I may just have removed them when I did my swap.

I don't know how bad the oiling systems are on Fords, but I've let cars sit for months at a time with no trouble starting up afterwards. 1-2 times a week is just fine.

Does your carb setup have a return line? My 600cfm Holley Street Avenger doesn't have a return. I've read of extensive hp numbers being supported by stock lines as long as you run a high pressure pump and a regulator closer to the carb. Make sure you isolate the pump properly. I didn't and now my fuel pump is REALLY LOUD in the car.

I think that you will discover that your Corolla makes a much better daily driver. A 97 Corolla will neither appreciate with low mileage, or depreciate much from putting miles on it. The Corolla gets much better mileage on lower grade gas, has airbags, and power steering. It can carry more things more easily and it is more comfortable. The ZX will be a really fun car, but in the grand scheme of things I think you should consider thinking of it as the sunny day car rather than corolla.

Also, here is an early picture of the tensioner setup that allowed me to run the reverse rotation water pump but remove the power steering and A/C. It's the old tensioner, mounted "upside down" on a bracket attached to the water pump and the alternator bracket. Once I trimmed down the top corner, it looked really clean, but I don't have a picture of the finished product.

hey 7M, I'm running a carbed 1985 5.0 in my 280Z and I'm thinking about switching to EFI. Do you have all of the parts from the EFI (manifolds, harness, speed density, etc)? I'm interested in buying them.

Dang cygnus, your engine bay looks absolutely tits. Did the paint crack on those little pliable wire holding "fingers" when you moved them?

I've been installing an MSD ignition box, which calls for an ignition switched power source. The instructions show that on a Ford, the wire is simply connected to what used to go to the positive side of the coil. I found the datsun positive coil lead (black with a white stripe), but when I test it against the ground for continuity my multimeter tells me that the circuit is closed even when the ignition switch is in the "off" position. Is the coil (+) on a 78 280Z "always on?" If it's not supposed to be, what might cause this short? Thanks for looking, Justin

I know this thread is old, but I want to confirm that the T5 made for ford mustangs is indeed a "pull" type setup. The arm must be pulled TOWARDS the front of the car, not BACK towards the rear end like on this chevy setup. It looks like on the Ford, the pivot point is past the throwout bearing on the other side of the slave cylinder, whereas the on the chevy, the pivot point is between the throwout and the cylinder. I believe this is to facilitate the use of a the cable-type clutch on these cars.

hey if you're still looking for an L28, let me know. I'm located near Berkeley and I have a good strong L28 that's already been pulled.

It definitely helps to have another person to give you a hand. If not, try using a screw-type load balancer - it allows you to change the way the mass is distributed on the engine, allowing you to bank it at an angle. Good luck!

First, I removed the mechanical fuel pump from the SBC. Then, I bolted a Mr. Gasket blockoff plate in its place. I replaced it with a Holley in-line fuel pump, the "blue" model (which comes with an adjustable pressure regulator). I mounted it near the tank, near the stock location.

Have you obtained the 153 tooth flywheel I have one direct from GM that's never been used that I need to sell.

Hello... I finally got around to taking a look at the rearend of the 260. The former owner tells me that the former-former owner swapped out the diff for an R200, and a visual inspection confirms that. I attempted to try to determine the gear ratio using the technique found in another thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90162 Problem was, when I tried to move the passenger tire, it wouldn't budge! I put down the e-brake, and the driveshaft is loose (not in a tranny) so it should've moved. Experimenting, I then jacked up both sides and tried to move both, to find that only the driver's side was moving (passenger's side stayed still). What are some possible issues, and how can I fix them? Also, are there any other ways to determine R200 gear ratios?

Let me see... I have a rather exotic harness, from a 94 Buick Fleetwood, the Buick equivalent of the LT1 Caprice. I am not keeping any of the emissions, I am using a manual transmission, no cruise or AC. I'm building a completely new dash, running autometer gauges all around. Thanks for the info about the few that I haven't identified - I actually have a factory service manual, but it's from a 94 Camaro.

So, I've stripped and tagged the harness as per the pinout diagrams of Tim240z, and I still have a few questions. It's probably the best if I go through all the connectors. Harness starts at the ECM, and goes to the MAP sensor. Then I run into a cluster of plugs including a ground, ECT plug, and "ignition control" plugs. What is an ECT, and where does the "ignition control" plug go? Then, the harness runs into injectors 1, 3, 5, 7, and moves onto a fork with the Bank #1 and Bank #2 HO2S, the IAC coil (which I'm missing), and a knock sensor. What are is the HO2S, and which bank is #1 and which bank is #2? What does IAC stand for? The harness then moves to the even injectors, and once again branches off. This is where I'm really confused. There is a 2 pin connector, which I've marked as IAT (intake air temp?), and a four pin marked as Distributor. There is a mystery 3-prong connector that has blue, black, and red wires running to it. I've mislabeled this the TP sensor. I actually have no idea what it is. Is this necessary? Can I cut it? What does the red wire plug into? I believe black and grey are ground and +5 ref. There is also an identical 3-pin sensor that I've marked as TP sensor. It has a grey wire, a black wire, and a dark blue wire. All three of these wires run to another connector, that's also plugged into the firewall junction block: This is the real TP sensor, mislabled "?" Do I need this thing? It looks like a data connector of some kind. After that, there are just a few wires. A super long 1 pin blue wire that I've marked as a knock sensor, black with white tracer marked as check engine light (what voltage is this?), tan with black tracer marked as ADAL comp link (where do I plug this into?), purple "brake signal" wire, black with white tracer "ground," and tan "serial data wire." Besides that, there's a whole handful of of pink and orange wires looking for +12 that run into what looks like a massive fuse block. Should I mark and fuse all of these wires, or just connect all the orange to constant hot and all the pink to ignition hot? Is there anything I've done wrong? Thanks for all your help, Justin

Hey, that looks absolutely fantastic. I'm very encouraged by your pictures - I too am swapping an LT1 into a Z. How did you go about painting the engine bay? It looks great.