tjcannon

That may not be a bad idea. I can borrow a trailer from somebody, swap the tranny myself, then cart it over to the shop to have the new crossmember made. That should keep my cost down to another $250, assuming I can find a trailer to borrow. Otherwise not sure how I'd get it from one place to the other. Thanks.

Simple version: How much should I pay the shop to swap my new T56 in where my T5 is now? Long story because I feel lazy for not just doing it myself... I'm posting this on here rather than driving to the shop because I'm in Iraq right now and just trying to get a feel for how much it's going to cost me when I get back in a couple weeks. I just bought this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200163084783 The problem I have is a complete unavailability of tools. I live in the barracks on Fort Bragg, NC, so I don't have a garage or anywhere to keep tools. That limits me to one small tool box for minor repairs and such. I need quite a bit more than what I've got to swap out my T5 for the T56. It seems the only option that leaves me with is taking it to the shop where I had my T5 crossmember made and getting them to swap out the trannies and make a new crossmember. So the question is... what should I expect to pay? What do you think a reasonable price would be? I always did things like this myself (other than fab work) when I lived in Houston, so I have no clue. I paid $250 for the very well made crossmember for the T5. Thanks in advance, TJ

I've been searching for quite some time and can't seem to figure this out. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has a plastic piece that sits on top of the upward-facing throttle body to direct air in. Like this: http://www.kandn.com/images/l/57-1506-2.jpg That seems like the most logical solution to my problem. I currently have a round 14" air cleaner on top of my Holley Street Avenger 670 in my Z. It baaarely fits. I don't like using all that hot engine compartment air, so I want to build a cold air intake for her. I can figure everything else out, but I'm curious if someone makes something like that Jeep piece for carbs. Another option would be something I saw yesterday on TV I think. It was a complete enclosure for the air cleaner with a gap between the edge and the filter element. It had hoses coming off either side to dual air filters in the front. Basically, anything that lets me redirect air from somewhere else is acceptable. Here's what I'm working with, except for new wiring and new 14" air cleaner: http://www.tcannon.net/pictures.htm Worst case scenario I'll see if I can pull that plastic piece off my Jeep and test fit it, then go find one in a junkyard if it works. I'll have to wait until I'm back in the US next month for that one though. I want to have it figured out before then, so I can just get to modifying when I get home. Suggestions?

I have my Optima in a plastic battery box in the spare tire well and I've never had a problem with it. Do what you want. Don't move it just for the V8 though. My 355 fits with plenty of room even if the battery was up front.

Well first off I should be more specific. The URL is http://www.thescirocco.com/quaife.html But aside from that, the Quaife warranty states that it is only valid when purchased from an authorized distributor with an original proof of purchase. So I guess I have to talk myself into $1500 now to buy it straight from AutoTech instead of $1300. I'm completely sold on the idea of the helical gear differential, but maybe if I read more about clutch types I can talk myself into a $550 Power Brute instead. I'll leave this up for the info in case anyone's searching for it.

I came across this site at http://www.thescirocco.com and the guy says he can do $1300 shipped for a Quaife 44.309.150 (the one for our cars). Everywhere else I'm seeing them listed for $1495 so it sounds like a great deal. The problem is when I went to Paypal him I saw he has 0 feedback on Paypal. I know Paypal offers some protections, but I don't want to go through the hassle of having to deal with that process. Any ideas, or know of somewhere reputable where I can get a similar price? Thanks.

Thank you! I'll check into both of these places. I appreciate it. After talking to several people, I was beginning to think there was nothing better than Maaco in the area.

Anyone? I tried searching but with no luck. I'm in Iraq right now, and the cash is piling up back home, so I suddenly find myself able to afford to make my Z not ugly. I live in Fort Bragg, NC, but all we have around there is Maaco. I'd be willing to drive a good distance to find a reputable paint and body shop. Something in Raleigh would be preferable, but if you know of anywhere in the region, please share. Thanks. Here's a pic of what they'll be working with... http://www.tcannon.net/pics/z/1981%20Hybrid%20280zx/DSCN1778%20(Medium).JPG I'll be having all the dents and dings fixed, everything stripped, and fully repainted. Also, my frame rail just behind the bumper on the front driver's side is crushed a bit like it was in a low speed collision. I'll be having that pulled out as well to line up the bumper/hood/lights.

Here's my setup... 81 280ZX 350 small block .030 over Vortec heads w/ 2.02/1.60 valves & radiusing Rams horn manifolds Air gap intake Holley 670 Street Avenger T5 transmission Stock fuel pump So 4 days ago I raced a RX8 and was dead even with him from about 30-70 or so. My car kinda felt like it was losing all power after about 3000 rpm's or so. 2 days ago I bought a Holley Blue electric fuel pump. Yesterday I installed it and moved my pressure regulator from over the exhaust manifold to the inside of the passenger fender at the firewall. I was driving around and saw a C6 'vette pulling onto the highway so I thought "What the hell? Why not get my *** handed to me by such a sweet car?" So I pull up beside him and gun it a little, and we go from about 70 to 130ish and... by the end of it his nose was at my window!? What have I done!? It's amazing how one little thing can make such a HUGE difference. She's definitely still a work in progress, but I just had to tell everyone about my first C6 race. Haha.

Here's my setup... 1981 280ZX 2-seater 355 SBC with Street Avenger 670 Vortec Heads with 2.02/1.60 valves and runner angles smoothed out a bit. T5 tranny Stock diff Stock suspension Stock wheels I don't know much about suspension, but I'm definitely on a budget. I tried searching to no avail, but I am looking at buying a set of Tokico twin tube struts and getting the suspension techniques 1" lowering springs later when I can afford them. I'm not worried about lowering the car, and if the stock springs will work fine, I'm just gonna pass on the aftermarket ones, since I have plenty more to spend my money on. Opinions on the Tokico Twin Tube struts for the 280ZX that squats like a beast on any sort of acceleration? Opinions on what I should do with the spring situation? Thanks. I have pictures at http://www.tcannon.net/pictures.htm Ignore the wiring mess. That was done by the previous owner and will be taken care of as I have time.

Cool! I just found it at Summit via Amazon.com for $1349.95 I am having some difficulty finding things, since I am purchasing it with a gift certificate from the T-Mobile Sales Rewards program. But apparently I can use the certificate at Amazon, so 8) I'm happy. This means I might just be able to get it before Christmas. I will continue to read on it, but you guys post what you know about it. Thanks, TJ

I plan on buying the Commander 950 / 700CFM TBI sytem from Holley, but before I commit to the $1700 purchase, I would like to know that this system will be able to handle whatever I throw at it. I want this to be my last fuel system change. How much HP can you support on a 357cid SBC with a 700CFM throttle body and 65pph injectors? I know the injectors can be upgraded, but assuming I go nuts and want to stroke my engine and supercharge it, will I have the ability to find a throttle body that will work with the Holley sensors/plugs/computer? Thanks in advance, TJ Here's the system... http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950TB/f950-22S.html

All problems fixed in under 2 hours. This is an informational post for people with any of my problems. Oil pressure senders do not like RTV. I was thinking "This engine is running damn well to have 0 oil pressure, so I unscrewed the oil pressure sender and lo and behold, pulled a string of RTV about 2 inches long out of it. Started my baby back up, pressure normal again. Next issue: pushrods. VERY easy to do with two people. I backed it out til it clicked BAD (only way oil would come out), then tightened it (with a friend standing with one ear on the end of a pipe and the other end of the pipe at the pushrod/rocker joint) until the clicking stopped, then gave it 1/4 more turn. I did this for each one and they now all properly lubricate themselves and the engine sounds SO much meaner. Everything working great. Yay!

Disclaimer: I did not build this engine initially, so I'm trying to figure out problems as I find them. Okay, my SBC was making intermittent clacking noises, which I had no clue what they were. I had also been having issues with oil pressure dropping off for no good reason. So I pulled off the oil pan and checked the rods/mains/all bolts were torqued properly. I noticed while I was down there that the pickup had come off the oil pump. I had a brand new Melling high volume/high pressure oil pump sitting around, so I went ahead and put that in and assumed that had been the noise I was hearing. Well, I started it back up and the same noise was there. So I then moved on to assume that it was a siezed lifter, and since I had been planning to cam my Z anyway, I pulled the old stuff out and dropped in a 282/288 cam a buddy of mine sold me after putting 2500 miles on it. Started the engine (GOOD GOD THE WORLD IS COMING TO AN END!) That cam sounds gooooooood. But now my oil pressure is sitting at either 0 or 60 PSI, and no oil is coming through the pushrods. I began the process of adjusting the lifters (back out until it clicks, tighten until it stops, tighten 1/4 turn) and oil began coming out of one of the pushrods (cool). However, I glanced in the car real quick and noticed the oil pressure was 0, so I quit for the night, to go back later with a friend to watch the gauges. Does the SBC have an oil bypass? Would a clogged filter cause the 0 psi oil pressure problem? I'm going to get a filter tomorrow, just because it's easy and might solve some problem. Advice please? What should I be looking for? Thanks, TJ

Sorry, I should have specified. The engine that is in there right now is temporary. I have a perfectly good block sitting in my storage shed that I'm building up, but I just want to fix what I have for right now. You would have to hear the noise. I can't imagine it being anything severely wrong with the engine.

I want to get some suggestions from knowledgeable people before I dive in, but my engine is making a clacking noise that increases in proportion with the speed of the engine. I have a few ideas of what this might be, but none of them sure since I did not build this engine. Also you should know that before this happened my car would just suddenly drop to 0 oil pressure and make a whirring noise until I revved it a little, then the oil pressure would shoot back up to normal. Here's what I'm thinking: Seized lifter (95% sure they are hydraulic) Loose bolt on rod cap (thanks for the suggestion, Oliver) Bad rear main bearing (would explain the oil pressure issue as well) Someone more experienced than myself please chime in. I'm replacing the oil pump with a nice high-volume pump I have, and I'm dropping in a 280/288 cam with matching hydraulic lifters (2500ish miles on it) and brand new pushrods. This takes care of my problem if it's a seized lifter, and I'll have the oil pan off to check the rods, but while I'm that deep into the engine, what else should I be checking? Sorry for such a long post, but Monday is my first day off in a long time since it's my BD, and I wanna wake up at the ass crack of dawn to get into this, but I'd prefer to have some idea what I'm looking for.

Question: I have a 1988 300ZX Turbo with good 5-lug hubs, wheels, and tires. A friend has a 1981 280ZX with a broken lug and some SKINNY tires. What would be involved in putting my wheels on his Z? Thank you in advance.

Problem solved. I'm a good friend of "the dj," and I've been working on this car since he went back up to Austin for work/school and left the car at his house down here. The stumbling issue was fixed by putting a gasket under the distributor (looks like someone forgot ), as it was rotating freely even with the hold-down tightened. It runs VERY consistently now. However, this thread is about oil pressure... I went to the local 24-hour Autozone last night and picked up a stock '81 Datsun Oil Pressure Switch. Upon examining the fitting currently in the block, and the one on the stock Datsun sender, I discovered that the two were EXACTLY the same thread. And given the length of pipe before the sender flared out to 2 inches, I slapped some teflon tape on 'er and screwed it in. THANK YOU LABRAT FOR NOT CUTTING THE ORIGINAL OIL PRESSURE LINE!!!!!! This made my work IMMENSELY easier. I simply plugged in the line to the Datsun sender, and presto changeo! Oil pressure! I believe the problem you were having was related to the air in the line between the block and the aftermarket gauge. I REALLY like the look of the factory gauge, so this worked out pretty nicely. I'm getting pretty much constant 45psi at idle all the way down to 800rpm. Past that, it drops off. I'm not sure if that oil pump is made to operate at such a low RPM, but it works great at 800RPM idle now. PS.. thank you for a relatively clean install. It is making things a lot easier in getting this car up to the shape it deserves to be in. EDIT: I'm talking about the same car this thread was made about. The problem has been resolved.

My tranny's not done being fit yet, but it will all line up. The only thing needed is to get the front part of a driveshaft from a car with a TH350 and have a shop cut them to the correct length and weld the two together. The TH350 is a 3-speed automatic.

Chaparral2f, that's frickin' sweet! Explain exactly what you did for the tranny mount. That is the only thing I'm lacking before I can get the driveshaft cut, exhaust built, and all the little stuff to be finished. The tranny mount and money are my only real problems right now. I'm about to go into the Air Force, but I wanna finish my baby first. It just seems like I can never get on top of things. I have no way to get to Houston right now from Austin, where I am, cuz I have $460 left to pay off my Lumina to get it out of the transmission shop, then I owe $500 per month for my apartment rent (this is my last month in the lease, and I don't even use my bedroom, so I think I'll find a cheap econo-box apartment this month). After bills and everything, I don't have much left at the end of the month out of my measly income. I want to go in the airforce NOW, but I want to drive my car first. As I see it I have the following expenses to deal with before I can leave: Recurring apt. rent: $500/month Recurring storage rent: $90/month Lumina out of the shop: $460 Torque Converter (3000 stall): $350 Water Pump: $50 Alternator: $80 Various Junkyard bolts n stuff: $100 (I plan to get the yoke for the TH30 driveshaft, a dust cover for the TH350, a bunch of bolts for the motor mounts and stuff, and some other as of yet unforeseen parts at the junkyard.) Mechanical Fuel pump: $50 Driveshaft cut, balanced: $100 This may not seem like a lot to some of you guys, but I work in a frickin' sandwich shop making $7 an hour. It seems impossible sometimes. I may end up just going into the airforce and saving up until I get out and I can work on it then. I'm not sure how things go in there, but I expect to be 5000 miles from Houston with no free time for the next 4 years, but I guess I'll ask my recruiter and find out. Sorry for the rant. Chaparral2f, DRAW me some pictures with measurements!

No, I sure haven't, but let me know if you get a good idea. The bolt holes look like they'd be just BARELY out of line. If you figure it out befor eI do, post. And I'll do the same.

TH350 here too. Cost restraints also. And because I plan for it to be mainly for the strip, and I only hear good things about those TH350's . I plan on doing a TCI 3000-3500 stall.

Well, getting the mounts welded was a complete surprise. I figured I wouldn't have it done for a LONG time, so stuff is still kinda scattered. I'm pretty sure my carb is in the trunk of my Lumina, which is in a shop in Austin getting the tranny fixed. As soon as I get back up there (around the 15th maybe) I can go check on that. I am currently in negotiations with a guy to buy his Holley 670 Street Avenger off him, though. Either way, I should have some clue about engine fitment by February, but probably not any sooner. :-

1988 300ZX Turbo (not anymore!) All I have to do is find my stupid carb so I can check for fitting under the hood. Almost there! I'm soooo happy!!!

I just finished putting in my motor mounts today, and it was INCREDIBLY simple once we got it figured out. Here's how I did it. I bought a universal crossmember with motor mounts here.. http://www.tperformance.com/street_rod_store/3700/universal_crossmember_motor_mounts/ and then I cut out everything between the 2 mounts. I cut out the old mount towers. Line end caps up with old inner welds on the crossmember. Weld down the endcaps. Line up the mounts. Weld them in. Hard to explain in writing, but if you use this method, and are at all technically or mechanically inclined, you'll see what I mean. Oil pan cleared rack by about 1/2 an inch. I dunno about intake yet, but I'm crossing my fingers. We'll see.