Pharaohabq
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Posts posted by Pharaohabq
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nice, those look pretty sweet, What kind are they? They look like the Panasports. looks like you went with 17's, and Falken tires. I had Falken' 512's on my 300zx, n they were okay, but I really like my dunlops better.
I see you did some welding on the body damage by the door, Was there a hole there?
Looks like you'll be trimming or something for the fender flares. you could cut, then bend the metal under to keep from creating a sharp edge. but how were you planning on doing that...?
It's all looking great tho, I really love the pictures..
Phar
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Can patch panels or my 280 be welded with a 110v stick welder. Took a piece of 24ga. flat stock and by spotting and stitching I was able to keep from warpage. Ofcourse that was off the car. Trying to avoid the cost of a mig just for my Z project if I can. Help please.
You can do it with a Stick, but it depends on how good a welder you are. You'll want you use your lowest amperage settings and as thin a stick as you can find. This will minimize the chances of burning through your panel. If you burn through, take a break, let it cool, and assess the damage, you would likely need to sand it flat and cut another patch. Don't try to close the hole by welding, you'll heat the panel too much and warp it.
The Stick Welder as you know, uses flux coated rods, and while you can get a good strong weld, it won't be near as pretty as a MIG welded joint. The MIG uses gas to keep the oxigen away from the arc, and thus doesn't create much slag. You can use flux cored MIG wire, or both together. I really like the Supergas, 25/75% argon/CO2. It shields nicely and makes for some really nice welds.
Also when you're welding, keep in mind that you'll be on a vertical surface as compared to your horizontal bench surface. There's a definite difference between the two.
When you weld your panel in place with either type of welder, weld the panel in place with a lot of little tacks rather than long seams to avoid much heat buildup so you don't get warping. if you make a seam, don't go longer than about 1/2" at a time
Really a MIG is much easier to weld with, and I think once you get one that you'll never go back to your stick welder. they ARE just that much better... Really! My 110V is a Lincoln 135, it's about the biggest you can get for 110V and I've been really happy with it.
Lastly remember that once you've welded the patch in place, that the back side is still going to be bare metal, so if you can get to it behind the panel, then you'll want to paint or coat it with something to prevent the inside bare metal from rusting. I've seen plenty of good patches/paintjobs ruined by rust returning from behind the panel between the body and the patch.
Good Luck,
Phar
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What condition are the rear rocker panels behind the rear tires? and I need a hood latch pull.. PM me.
Phar
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Well I paid $700 for the car so I couldnt expect to much from the Z, when I pulled the interior I found my horror story.
Floor pans bad ( I knew this already) what I didn't know was what looked like a solid fire wall from the outside told a different story from the inside. The tranny tunnel is done, the inner rockers are done, as well as the frame rails.
The good, the motor is stout no smoking no knock, tranny is good, seats are good condition not torn. The carpet was in good condition not torn.
The only bad parts in the interior were the dash, and one of the rear strut tower coverings was torn.
This car will be stripped and sent off to the junkyard for crushing and now I must try and find a better Z to start with.
In the end its a sad weekend for me, I had some really good ideas for this car and now they must be put on hold till I can get another shell!!
Ouch, Can you return the car to whom you bought it from? Is there a Lemon Law in your state? If not at least you'll have a parts car. What color interior? I might be looking for a good center console
Phar
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nice! those seats look sweet Jeffer... Now where'd he find a set for 175... I was looking at the leather reskinning kit from datsunrestore, but that's like 350 bucks! if I can get 350Z seats cheap somewhere hmm....
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yes it it on the threaded part with a hammer but use something to protect the threads. i.e. piece of wood or a brass drift. or if you have a lead or brass hammer that would work great
Yeah like Jeffer said, you need to protect the threads, I used the nut that was originally on there, unscrewed it so it was even with the end of the bolt the put a 2x4 against the bolt and loosed nut and whacked the heck out of it w/ a 20# hammer. it began moving after about 10 blows then I soaked it again with WD40 and the next day whacked it some more, took off the nut and ouila! it came free. 2x4 looked bad tho. A piece of plywood would work too, so long as you're not pounding direct steel to steel.
Phar
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Well look for rust, because even if the engine is a paperweight, you'd still be in good shape since you'll be playing with the turbo stuff on it. Especially check the reenforced areas above the frame rails just behind the front tires. This area bolsters braking and bad rust here could be dangerous. 1000 or 1500 is pretty decent. Really just take a good look and figure what you're getting into. Worst case on the engine, you're probably looking at a rebuild. But you could swap in the 83 L28ET and sell the old parts on EPay. either way don't worry about the engine, that's the easy part.
Phar
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How much are those upgrades worth to you? I was thinking about it, you need to do some math. I bought my 78' 280Z w/ almost no rust for $400 bones. yeah it needs more work, but what are you going to want to do to that car? How bad is the rust?
There's a lot of deals to be had, so you might really think hard about paying that much for it. Especially without getting to see how the int looks, and how it drives. I'd say low ball it around $1800 or less and work up from there, make him sell it to you, tell you what it's worth, n why you should pay more than your offer. You might also look at what else is avail locally and on EPay/Craigs to build some comparitives to keep in mind.
Phar
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I've tried searching on this forum, but didn't find anything to help me use my stock Z brand new oil pressure/water temp senders with aftermarket Autometer gauges.
Do the Z senders send out the same resistance as Autometer oil pres./water temp gauges' ones? It is funny, how for ex., Summit never lists the Ohm settings for the oil pressure/water temp sending units? The site sure does show the fuel gauge resistors. WTF?
I wish I could just order the new gauges with senders and forget about it. But I already have the Z new senders ($$) and would hate replacing them.
The car in question is 76.
Thanks!
Ohh I'd also like to know how the Stock Tachometer works too, anyone know?
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Sorry to hear about the Crash, No fun... Got picts?? Look at it this way, it's an upgrade opportunity, n you can get that new paint job done at the same time.
Phar:mad:
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Well, I can definately say that it's somewhere in the switch. It did it again last night while I was driving. All, I did was shut off the lights thedn turn them back on again. I'm pretty sure that it's in the connection. I'll pull it all apart again and clean the connectors really good. If that doesn't help, I'll have to say the switch is toast and is either going to get worse, or will be like this the rest of the life of the car. Anybody got an extra switch they want to get rid of????
There's always a ton of these for sale on Epay, tho the Combo switch isn't that hard to rebuild, just time consuming.
Phar
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Yeah that's real similar to what I was thinking of using. it's kinda like a brillo pad but with like grinder material embedded in it. sandwiched into a disc. Do you know what Grit those pads you used were? I've seen at Lowes there's a few different roughness levels of pads.
Ahh okay, Direct to Metal, DTM, Totally makes sense now. That's looking good so far with the primer on there. I know you're going to do some sanding, so I guess dust in the primer isn't so big a deal. Can you see any swirls from the sander through any of the primer? I'm just trying to pay attention so I don't muff up my car when it's my turn to refinish. Thanks so much for posting so many pics!
Phar
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I got a 75 280Z and I love it. From a collectors point of view the 240Z was the one that started it all, 300lbs lighter, sexier bumpers all around, etc....but here's how I look at the 280Z...Technically speaking it's rarer than the 240Z..Why? because it was only manufactured for North America...meaning no one else has it. Also, it is the ending of the Z's before the 350Z came out. If you live in California you would also know that the last year for smog exempt was 75 meaning the 280Z just made it for one year. I've got a bad habit of collecting rare stuff, I'll post updates on my car once my engine bay gets painted. I've got quite a few Nismo parts in my Z () not too many people can say they got Nismo in their Z. In the end it's up to what you want and what makes you happy. Don't worry about what other people think, get what you want and makes you happy. Then you can build from their
Yeah, it would be nice to have both cars tho, but budgets are a bi*ch. That and I have too many cars already. Hopefully the 240 will stick around a while longer so that I can finish up some on my 78' and get rid of the 86' I've got and earn up some brownie points w/ the wife... I'm still keeping my 92' as my daily driver and well the Jeep is just for romping on rocks.
My 78, along w/ paint and the new interior, I want to put on 240Z bumpers, and a P90a head. I'm also looking into different EFI options, because I'd like to increase MPG..
Phar
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i wouldnt worry to much about the surface just use high build primer filler a couple of coats sanding in between and itll look like glass did mine on the drive and it looked fine once sanded a good item to use is the wire cups for the 4.5" angle grinder not to course and it takes the paint off and also polishes the metal saves a lot of time in preparation
so you like the wire cups better for removing paint? I've used those before to remove rust off metal before welding, and of course to remove the crud after welding. Maybe I'll try it on the paint. I was worried about the nut that hold on the disc scarring the metal with the scotch pads.
I don't think the wire would scar the metal. Maybe I'll try both to get a feel for what would work best for me. There's at least 2 maybe 3 coats of paint on my Z.
On Primer: It's definitely good to wear the right kind of resperator. What kind of Paint gun will you be spraying with? Is that DTM primer good for bare metal application, and what of rust prevention? I'm not familiar, though it sounds like you have a good dialogue w/ a paint shop going.
Hood holes and welding: I think the older 260/240 emblems had a different hole pattern than the horizontal 280Z pattern.
As for the welding on the door repairs, if you didn't have trouble before, than just refill it and let it be. it's not worth the risk of heat warpage. T
Though if you were going to repair your door damage yourself, were you going to spot weld in more sheet metal for that too? Since you'd have the welder out.
Phar
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Why?
What kind of MPG are you looking for? An S30 with LJet can pretty easily get 28mpg (hwy), 30+ if you work at it.
The hurdles you must overcome to make your idea work would take more effort, and likely money, than an aftermarket EMS. And, I'm betting, less fruitful. In my opinion you're going about it the hard way.
I was thinking I should be able to get ~22-25 in town, and 30+ on the highway. I dunno.. It's hard to say just what it would work out to, right now my S30 gets 18City and about 23 on the highway. granted my S30 needs some work.
Maybe trying the hard way, Which aftermarket EFI were you thinking? Megasquirt? Looks like Megasquirt is pulsed in banks rather than firing the individual injectors like the mopar EFi does.
Phar
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Anyone else got anything to say? Anyone done this? looking for input here...
thanks,
Phar
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Im using my trusty 4.5 inch angle grinder with these scotch brite type pads they sell at Lowes. strips the paint nicely but doesnt dig into the metal at all. And yes i have damage on my door and rear fender lip. I wrecked the car about a week ago. I doubt i will redo the under coating in the rear and floor pans. I dont have that much time.
Im going to def. do my own body work. and depending on how much money i have left will depend on if i paint it myself or not.
Yeah, I was thinking of sanding mine w/ my angle grinder, though like I said I'd be afraid of marring the metal. though I've used those scotchbright disks before, n they work well.
I guess you could go over it w/ a good primer. The body shop I talked to this morning was saying you should use a green acid base primer to ensure no rust developes. If you're painting it, you should probably consult a shop in your area for your climate, or for instructions prior to them painting... I dunno. It's looking good, hopefully mine will turn out so well
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So what are you using to sand with? I'd heard you could really muff up your paint if you get the sanding wrong.
What did you use to undercoat beneath the fenders? Are you going to check your floorpans and rear wheelwells too, I mean redo the undercoat on them also?
Looked like your left door and wheel well might have had some damage, or is that just the dust playing tricks?
Are you going to do your own painting?
Phar
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I saw some just like those a few weeks ago, up there and drooled for a week, but I got way too many other things planned, but those are pretty nice looking... how about Silicone sealer to seal them with, it is water tight and easy to cut w/ a blade, and cleans right of with GooGone...
Phar
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Now I did search and I didn't bring up anything on this subject, and I know Jeep Engines are too heavy and though torque-y But, I was thinking, "What ways can we improve MPG on out L28 engines either NA or T?"
Well A while back I swapped my AMC Jeep 4.2L Crappy carb setup to basically the Mopar EFI kit. The Mopar Multiport EFI is more efficient than stock L28 Bosch system. I built my own using junkyard/Ebay parts here's a link off my ProjectJeep Site:
http://www.projectjeep.com/Projects/EFI.html
The EFI improved my Jeep milage from about 13MPG to closer to 18 or 20MPG.
Okay, I know there's a lot of differences between the AMC 4.2 and the Nissan L28, but the Mopar MPI System is still a possibility, since the EFI works also with the 2.3L AMC engine too. Basically as I understand it, the Jeep Computer will try to figure the correct mixture regardless of engine size. (Yes I know I could do Megasquirt, but this is pre-setup though the fuel maps may need tweaking)
The Mopar EFI has a few main components, Manifold, injectors, ECU, O2 sensor, temp, MAP sensor, TP Sensor, Distrib sensor and CPS sensor. Some also use a Speed sensor. I'm talking the ODB1 version (pre 96, mostly 94') the ODBII stuff is a little more of a pain.
I am not going to go into the how of all this unless its more feasable through our discussions. But I'd like to talk more of the similarities between the Bosch System, and the Mopar EFI.
Of course, Both Bosch and Mopar EFI have manifolds, and very similar injectors (plugs look the same anyway) The Bosch system doesn't have a MAP Sensor or a CPS (crank position sensor) because Bosch uses the Air Flow Meter(AFM) I don't know about the TPS or what kind of Distrib ignition timing Bosch uses, so these may be an issue. Both Bosch and Mopar use Fuel return lines back to the Fuel tank for the overpressure off the Fuel regulator. (though Mopar also can use a non-return system w/ a later Fuel pump, which works well in my Jeep)
Ideally, a Mopar AMC Manifold could be adapted to fit an L28, but I'm sure there'd be fit and position spacing issues which would open it's own can of worms so to speak. So I'd assume then we'd need to use a stock L28 Manifold. Putting the MAP on an L28 is Simple, just plug a hose in.
The throttle body may be a bit different. We don't need the MAF anymore, So we can remove that, but the Throttle body, or more importantly the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which mounts to the side of the throttle body may be hard to fit to a stock L28. We'd likely need to get a throttle body off a Jeep or another compatible GM car. (likely need to see what other vehicles used the same TPS and aquire the largest one it's compatible with. )
The O2 sensor may need to be changed to a newer type, but it'll just screw into the Exhaust manifold somewhere down the line. (might have to install a threaded boss for this, any Exhaust shop can do it, or supply parts.) the Temp sensor can be put anywhere in the water cooling system. Though, Jeeps require 195 degrees thermostat, the 180 degree that an L28 takes shouldn't make a difference. Leaving the stock one in place will ensure your temp gauges still work.
Next is the two harder parts to figure. The Distrib position sensor, and the CPS. The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on a Jeep, is what allows the computer to know where the crank is positioned, and on what cycle the engines cylinders are on. Basically these are the two most important sensors since the engine will not start w/o them.
Now how Mopar got around not mounting the CPS next to a toothed flywheel was to make a Harmonic Balancer that had teeth that could be "read" by the CPS, mounted next to it on the engine front. I don't know how compatable a Mopar Performance Harmonic balancer would be, but it may be possible to modify a stock balancer with the correct notches (it's a pain, was why I bought one for my jeep) but it could work. Hopefully the crank on an L28 could take a heavier Mopar Balancer, but we'd have to test fit one to see. I don't think the extra weight on a Mopar balancer would affect the engine performance much if any.
Lastly the Distrib sensor, I know that's not the right name, it's a cam sensor or something. In anycase it just tells the computer when to make the spark for the plugs, handles ignition timing and all that so it's pretty easy. but how to make one work on an L28. I'll need to look into the S130 Distrib sensor and see how it works. I know you can buy just the Sensor that goes in an Mopar Distributor, but I'm not sure the similarities.
So what do you think?
Phar:icon32:
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Thanks for the great input guys! Yeah, I was thinking of doing some mods, like adding the L28ET etc. and I've already got the 280Z so, maybe I'll wait on the 240. (it's sat for 14 years, maybe it'll stay longer) The 240 is/was tempting though, but my wife "doesn't want a car lot" in our yard. I'm not sure I'll pass it up, but I'm leaning tward letting it go until I get my 280Z "done".
Thanks again
Phar
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You might consider saving those and adapting them into your Z, Guaranteed they're more comfy than a stock 240 seat.
Phar
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That looks nice! looks like a shiney VG30DE. What Tranny you put in? Would a TT engine have fit in there?
Phar
) not too many people can say they got Nismo in their Z. In the end it's up to what you want and what makes you happy. Don't worry about what other people think, get what you want and makes you happy. Then you can build from their
Fixing the wrecked zed
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Hey yeah, that's looking good, Are you planning on painting the ZG's as well? Also, did you have both side mirrors on the car before you're deciding to go with the fender mirrors? If so, are you going to keep hold of your passenger side? I could really use one...
Phar