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Pharaohabq

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Pharaohabq last won the day on September 25 2018

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About Pharaohabq

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  • Birthday 11/13/1970

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    Albuquerque, NM

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  1. Anyone think I should re-write this?
  2. Yeah, What NewZed said, , but really just do the upgrade to the 2+2 clutch, you'll need the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Stage 1, is pretty much that, but I've had good luck with exedy. The kit usually comes with the thowout bearing and the pilot bearing. As for the tranny, if you find the code on it, it'll be a lot easier to identify. you can also show us the Shifter to narrow it down a little.
  3. So I went out and got another Piston to replace that cracked one. It's not bad looking at all, I cleaned up my old pistons, and found that each was marked, proving that this engine had been rebuild previously as expected. I got the new rings and followed the instructions for install, on each of the pistons and then reinstalled them in the Block. I torqued them down to the ~40 ftlb of torque that was noted here on the forum. I then pulled the main bearings to check them for wear. They too looked like they were new, so I really don't th
  4. Now that the head is done, I figured it'd be good to start on the block to see if there's anything I can find wrong there that would cause the low compression in cylinder 1. I drained and dropped the pan, the oil was nasty. I could see they'd rebuilt it relatively recently, but I doubt they ever changed the oil. it was black black, and really smelled nasty. I looked at the bearings and they look almost new, no wear through the zinc coating. I still need to plastigauge it but the crank looks great. I pulled out the pistons and the oil passages are clogged and the oiler
  5. So I've been tearing down that head. I pulled out all the valves and it's a good thing too, there was a ton of dirt in the springs, even after I soaked the whole thing in a bucket. When I inspected the valves there was some scoring or almost corrosion I didn't like, so I lapped the valves and that cleaned those up nicely. Then I put them all back together with the springs and washers after it was all cleaned up nicely. I installed new Viton seals and pressed them all down to seat with a socket. of course bathing everything in clean oil for a
  6. I went out yesterday to look at some parts. This buy out here has parts from probably 30 S30's. If you need parts, PM me and I'll get you his Email.. Anyhow I looked at maybe 10 heads he had, mostly N47's but a few P90's and a few E88's and E30's. He had one P79 which I liked because it had actually looked really good. it hardly looked used at all in the cylinder heads and valves. But the issue is that it's sat up on a shelf for who knows how many years, so the top is a bit dirty and missing the cam etc, But those are good on my N47. Not
  7. yeah I've actually got a spare block, so that's not really an issue. I did pull more of it apart this afternoon and oddly the valves on cyl one actually does't look that bad with just the head off. I haven't pulled the old valves out to check the seats so that may not be the issue. If that cyl one got too hot maybe the rings are toasted. The cylinder walls don't look bad, no scoring or anything. I'm going to pull the bottom apart tomorrow so we'll see what it looks like. I've got new rings and bearings already, so might as well hone and replace. I have to do all the se
  8. Yeah this one definitely snapped off. it was likely lodged in there causing the head to heat up a lot. I'm going to the junkyard this weekend to pull another head. I was reading the n47 or P79 might not be bad choices. I'm not going to turbo this. none of the others were loose. I have been soaking the water bolts in liquid wrench, hopefully they'll come loose, but if not, no big deal The P79 is supposed to have a really good quench pattern. They said they might have a p90, not a p90a, I'm not sure the difference there. I'm pretty sure the low pressure in that cy
  9. So, I got a chance to tear into the L28 to try to see what was going on with the low compression on cylinder one. I took off the Intake and the Exhaust header and the valve cover. I think I have a good idea what's going on I found with Cylinder 1 that the metal shield for the exhaust had cracked and was half missing. These are here to protect the aluminum head from overheating, which this one has done. You can also see that the aluminum had lightly melted patterning, to the gasket. Does anyone know if that liner is actually replaceable? How are these
  10. Well So far as I know the L24 may have been rebuilt prior to 90' when the car was parked. It's not the original engine. It appears to be stock. It does run, albeit badly, but it's connected to the 4sp that it turns out has sand in it. It's fine, I hate 4speeds anyway. When I got the car the Tranny had 2 bolts in holding it together. Nothing on the engine was connected except the radiator hoses. The story was that it was a project car that they never got back to then it was lost in the weeds. Who knows what they did. If it was the original engine I'd be much more interested in keeping it s
  11. Well not too much new as you said, and that's fine, this is currently 54 pages of awesome! Do you know if any of these (#0005 especially) have been dyno'd? It looked like the 7K rpm was easy as pie. is the VTC running yet? I'd love to buy one of these, but lack of cash is always an issue. For now I'm just going to need to be happy drooling on my KB.
  12. So I started looking into the L28 I got. It's a 42/n47 engine. I think that cooresponds to a 79-80zx. Anyway as with any engine, one of the first things I figure to check is compression. (Do you like my engine stand? This is temporary, I couldn't rotate it on the real safe engine stand. ) I put a pair of bolts in the flexplate and then bolted in the starter with a pair of 14mm m8 bolts. I pulled the plugs and though it's an older engine, the plugs are bosch platinum and look almost new, so I figure someone was working on the engine b
  13. Sorry no updates in a while. It got stupid cold this winter and working in snow isn't any fun. I did install the new rear cylinders and they fit just fine. I need to install a used Ebrake cable but that's pretty easy. The MC I used has an issue tho, I think one of the seals went bad or flipped inside, because I can pump the brakes and they get pressure, no leaks anywhere, but after a short time they're worthless again. This was a new MC. I ordered another one after talking to the manufacturer. (they think I pusted the piston in too far when bench bleeding. I'll pull it apart when it's o
  14. Yup Horns. I just pulled mine off so I can paint...
  15. Hey Jeff, I love watching your channel. It's pretty fun and you're a lucky guy with Mrs Jeff. The amount of sanding you had to do was crazy. I am going to do the same with my 240z, but hopefully I've learned from your example and won't have to sand as much. I'm going to hold off on much furthor comments since I've only made it through the episodes where you just finished painting. There's a lot more assembly that you've done, but that I haven't watched. So keep up the great work, and I'll see if I can send you something. Phar
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