tolerate

Hi Matt, Thanks for taking a look at my post. the car came with low impedance, but i installed a resistor pack. I noticed that the Q12 on the board didnt have a mica insulator, but used the heat tape thing. Would that be causing the symptoms of thermal overload or grounding? Since I've put in a mica insulator, but I haven't tested it yet to see if that was the fix. On a separate note. I bought a MS2 kit, soldered in the same setup as the MS1 in question, but the IG LED won't flash on my stim. However, when I hook up the MS1 and replace the MS1 processor with the MS2 processor the IG lights up (also the IG LED lights up with MS1 processor) Is there a trouble shoot that you know I could do? Lastly, after I replaced the MS1 processor on the MS1 v3 board with the MS2 processor, the spark advance will not go past 32 degrees on the stim. Like there is a limit. I've played around and lowered the spark advance table numbers, and it will not go past 32 no matter the rpm. Edit: forgot to mention after running the MS board on stim for 20 minutes, the transistors are not warm/hot to the touch. however there is a slight smell of ozone. When I put in the MS1 processor on the MS2 board I assembled and connected to stim, there's a clicking noise that operates at a steady pace regardless of RPM.

I used the MS trouble shoot http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_injector_driver_troubleshooting.htm and ran it for 30 minutes with the stim board, and data logged teh results, for constant 1500 rpm, the results look stable. in car, if i try to hold constant RPM it would stall out within a couple of minutes. i've been having the same systems for a while, it seems to be more of a thermal shutdown. Also he has the additional motivation of trying to sell me a $1600 holley EMS and install. Since I've built an MS2 and tried to replace the system, but on the stim, the spark advance will not use the table values (i.e. the spark advance uses crank and lower RPM table values [as shown in spark advance gauge], but will not use higher RPM values on stim). however the stim IGN isnt lighting up for MS2.

I already checked these and left them on for 30 minutes, using the stim board. Everything was fine.

yea. I think I'll just move over to the MS2, I bought one and built it, but no joy on getting the car to run on it. I will have to go back and check to see whats going on. I can actually smell the gas, so I think I have a spark problem. The MS1 will start and idle the car fine.

Hi All, My car is having problem at higher revs ( i bought the car as a project from someone else.) It idles fine but it stalls out at anything above idle. I took it to a tuner who said it might be the injector drivers going bad? Anyway, I cracked it open and found http://imgur.com/a/USFd8 this (theres a cartoon in the album) It looks faintly like the http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/common_megasquirt_modifications.htm#Add_Output_v3 "Adding an relay control circuit to the megasquirt PCB-3" (middle section of the article) but it connects to the voltage regulator (U5) and there isn't a JS3 output connection wire from the resistor. My question is this: What is the purpose of this setup? Is the wiring right? Is a bad voltage regulator (U5) possible for the engine problems I'm facing? PS: I made a MS2 v3 and also tried to plug it in according to the http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm writeup. But It wouldn't even start. so I have a feeling this setup does something more than just control a relay. PSS: Car is a 280z with a 1982 engine/distro Thanks All in Advance.

Thanks for the advice. I didn't get a chance to ask him about his knowledge with Z's. I had a charging problem that was fixed by Russell bro electric and it idled ok at the lot. I'm just so frustrated with tuning that I decided to pass it to Culver. I wasn't confident with his knowledge of megasquirt, but he knew how to tune (which I'm hoping is all that this car needs). If this fails, I might just convert it to carbs. If this works out, I'll buy you a beer or something. Is there a Z club in Huntsville?

Thanks for the advice. I got it towed there this morning.

Hi Dan, I'm in huntsville too and need help with the megasquirt tuning of my Z. Are you able to recommend someone local?

I'm having a similar issue as the low rpm and idling in the 11-12 range. Were you able to fix the problem?

Just got back from vacation i'll get the hair dryer out and give it a shot tonight.

Sorry for the initial confusion.. when you say one side, do you mean the left/right or bottom/top? because it seems the top and bottom of the dash are too small and the left and right sides are too big.

I've attached pictures for you guys http://imgur.com/a/SUYjf and attached comments and descriptions.

Do you know if the 240z mounting ring is smaller than the 280z's, Im sure the dash is 280z.

Sorry guys I have a 1977 280z. the previous owner removed it and replaced with a boost gauge. I guess he had trouble reinstalling it as well. Im guessing the gauge is from the stock 280z gauge. Just verifying the install. I tried pushing it in fron the back, but I'm breaking my dash in the process. Guess I'm alone with the problem. I'll grab the caliper and measure the gauge against the volt and oil pressure gauge.

Hi All, This seems to be a stupid problem to have, but I bought the car from someone that swapped the clock with a boost gauge, and it seems to have the 280z clock housing, so in theory it should fit in the clock hole in the dash. However, the clock/boost gauge housing (black rim thing) is too big for the hole in the dash. Is there a trick to this or do i have to enlarge the dash hole? for clarification, I'm trying to install it from behind the dash.

Hi, would you be willing to sell me one resistor set? its got 3 individual resistors right?

Ive tried a few places and Nissan doesn't make them anymore.

Hi All, I'd like to buy the fan control resistor for a 77 280z, part number 72 from here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/AirConditioner/tabid/1673/Default.aspx Thanks

I received the resistors today, but decided to try the capacitor thing first.. less soldering. I live on a hill and before the car would stall out near the top. She roared in today after the capacitor in the bootloader thing. I'll go for a test drive probably Sunday. Whats the consensus. Keep the low Z injectors or go high Z anyway?

So I thought more about this and realized the Batt V noise is causing the PWM to act up. The batt v is ranging from 7-16 V. The batt V correction will be crazy. (check out the imgur link, the top three pictures illustrate this). This seems to come up on MSnS systems running Low impedance injectors. more info here http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=28178&start=20. I'll get a cheap capacitor and see what happens. update ya'll over the weekend.

ok that makes sense bc MS is grounding them, after I install serial resistors on the pos of each injector (6 total) the PWM settings will change to High impedance settings? the resistors will be here tomorrow so I think it should be ok. I'll break out the solder and check my grounds while i'm doing that.

I ordered some 5.6 ohm 25 watt resistors http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12566163 for the low z supra injectors online, I don't have any local suppliers. Looks like it should be here next week. I'll be checking on the sensor grounds and other stuff until the resistors get here.

Hi Winston, was the injector internals wired wrong? I haven't added dropping resistors yet (they'll be here Next week), is that what you're referring to? I'll take a look at the voltage (I guess i should be seeing flashes of 12?) In regards to the RPM and PW relationship, I noticed theres a lag between TP and PW, but it seems to be at wide open throttle. small TP values correspond well with PW. I attached snapshots and also a snapshot of a noisy TP signal messing with my spark settings. Is it really caused by the noisy TP? http://imgur.com/a/QarWB edit: forgot to mention we didn't set accel enrich for the WOT pulls

I sent them off to be cleaned by witchhunter December 2013, (I'm also running a filter between the pump and tank and a filter between pump and rail) and I don't have a spare set of injectors on me. I will try installing high impedance resistors first and double checking grounds. If there's a problem with the PWM flyback, then high impedance should fix that right?

Hi Metro, Thanks for taking a look. I wouldn't trust the AFR readings, he used the O2 sensor for his dyno computer, disconnecting my O2 sensor from the LC-2 in the process. The problem is that I lose power after 4000 rpm, it stalls out and dies. I remember seeing the AFR stay around the 12-13 range throughout the pulls. I Know the VE table isn't right either. I just wanted to know if anyone with diagnostic experience has seen this before, is this a classic sign of anything? But I can't figure out why my engine isn't getting the fuel it needs. I've tested the MSnS unit with the stimulator and everything responded as I expected. I just test drove it again, and its trying to stall out at 3000 rpm. Maybe relevant: Lights and blinker weren't working when it arrived in the dyno, and I had to replace the megasquirt main relay. After I got it back, The voltmeter and lights are working again, hazards aren't still (figure its the flasher relay). By the voltmeter not working I mean the needle didn't go past 4 volts, but the multimeter reading showed >13 V.