SHO-Z
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Posts posted by SHO-Z
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Being bored and just burned out gets in the way on these long term projects. My bad back also doesn’t help. I have all sorts of upgrades just sitting in the garage; most I have had for years, but don’t feel motivated to start any of them. My Z hasn’t had 200 miles put on it in the last 2 years. Arizona is not the type of country that I like to drive through, desert and straight roads.
It does make a good place to sack stuff on in the garage.
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Buy my Z convert and make a fiberglass top 2 piece top with targa section.
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I want to wish all off the Hybriders and their families a Merry Christmas and a Happy Holiday Season from up here inside the Arctic Circle. The weather is clear so tell the kids that Santa will have no problems heading south.
Keep safe and keep the shinny side up.
Wil
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I would require the same type of reinforcement as on a convertible like I did. It would also require a single piece of tube stock down the center of the top and around the opening. There is no way to get the same rigidity as on the standard Z without lots of cross bracing.
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Like Tony D said mine is just a box too. Look at this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863&highlight=hsk he did a flow model on my BOX showings it's problems, there is also complete cuts of the HSK and how they work. There is a guy in Oregon who is selling the HSK plentum and the new SK Racing carbs, but they are pricey!
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The HSK plentum has dual sections. The air enters the first section which has the float bowl vents and then goes to the second section to the carb intakes. This gives the required higher pressure in the float bowls. Here is my solution to the problem. Adding a tube from the turbo/supercharger outlet to the float bowls and use the pressure drop trough the intercooler for the delta P.
Here is a picture of my box and vent tubing for the floats.
Do a search for more info.
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CO2 and LN2 are invisible killers, they both displace the O2. Please use this outside and be careful. Do not get in a hurry and jump in the car before it is properly ventilated.
We do not want to loose any Hybrid members due to a stupid mistake.
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I might be wrong on this. I read some where that the turbo oil pump will not work with the NA distributors. You have to use a turbo distributor.
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You really need to look at what you are planning of using it for. A DC welder will tig SS and Carbon steel just fine. In the construction industry standard DC welders are used for Tiging SS and carbon steel pipe. Aluminum plate and tube can be gas welded with practice. The original Cobra bodies with gas welded together using a blow torche. But there are few craftsman left that know how to do that proceedure, but it can be done.
Is it worth paying the extra $ for high freq and all if you are really seldom going to use it?
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I do think it is neat and a great project. My real comment is back in the day the factory Cobra team didn't like or want to race the 427 cobras, the 351 was faster and handled better. But these were CI blocks and different technology.
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I hate you guys from the southwest, always showing off about how rust free your cars are. Ha ha.. Seriously though, around here unless the car is less than 10 years old rust repairs are RARELY that minor. Although from what I have heard down there restoring a car has alot more to do with replacing rubber/plastic parts that the heat/UV ray have destroyed.
Great replies guys, keep them coming!
I did live in Colorado and Washington for quite a while with all of my Zs. I am old school and was doing these types of repairs before MIG welders were around. Soldering or brazing were how we used to do a lot of this stuff. Before these new high tech body fillers a good body man would do all of his repairs with lead after beating out the fenders. Evan Datsun used lead filler on our Zs. I found some in the area behind the side windows on both sides on the one I cut up. But I do like my mig welder!
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It really matters on how large the area is where it is and how you want to do it. I have done it with just a grinder, drill, snips and a propane torch. Using 50/50 solder and body lead this is all you need for small areas.
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On thin metal try stitch welding. After you tack it up, make your welds about an inch or so long and then skip and inch. After is has cooled down a bit fill in the gaps in the stitch.
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Finally, the CF d-shaft should not have any bearing on how well it transmits power (from a total efficiency standpoint) as there is no friction or moving parts on the driveshaft itself. It simply transmits power. The idea of the CF d-shaft is that there is less rotating mass so it can more rapidly change rotating speed than a heavier unit. The part of a d-shaft that would alter efficiency are the U-joints/CV's as they're responsible for changing direction of power, and unless they're 100% friction free (nothing is), there will be a loss of efficiency as the direction of torque is altered.
The straighter the dive shaft the less hp loss there will be. This is also true for the haft shafts on a Z, U-Joints do take away hp. Straight cut gears in the trans have less hp loss but are not as strong as angle cut gears. In high gear on some Trans you are basically straight through but still have rotating gears in the lube oil that trough oil to lube the trans. The design of the differential also makes a difference like the trans straight cut gears in the trans have less hp loss but are not as strong as angle cut gears.
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You might have the return line connection and the fuel line connections reversed on the tank.
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On that set up there is vacuum between the carb and turbo. The carb is up steam of the turbo and the brake booster should be between the carb and turbo so everything on the carb works just like on a normal Z.
On engines that have been sitting for a long time I always use to add a couple quarts of ATF to the oil and let the car idle for around 45 minutes or so and then drain the oil as soon as I could while it was still hot. The ATF will clean out all of the sludge and get the varnish out of the rings. But this is an OLD SCHOOL method.
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I really do not understand what is wrong? I seams everyone wants the same clone racing machine. Back in the 60s they had Old Yeller, home made Formula Vs that looked like a soap box derby cars, 3 cylinder Saabs that had 3 expansion chambers hanging out the hood and such. If you went to a road race you would see about every make and model out there in some class. That Volvo has more tech in it than most of our Zs and would probably put most of the V8 powered Zs to shame.
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Here is what I was talking about. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144713&highlight=supercharger There is another one in NY that I found about a couple of years ago. I have several pictures on my work computer that I can send you next week.
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There are several supercharger posts in here. Most are wet superchargers using EFI. One was sold about 6 months ago and produced around 250 hp. Try looking again. Good Luck
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If you built the motor for a forced induction purpose, as in like more than 6psi, then it would be best to intercool it.
The problem with the Triumph guys is that they take the motor that they have and then slap a supercharger onto it. You don't get anything with 9:1 compression and 6psi compared to 7.5:1 or 8:1 and 15psi.
You really do not want to intercool a wet system. There is too much volume and a back fire would be dangerous! I just wanted to show some other options out there. Six psi on a 280 motor would work fine without a intercooler. There are some FI wet supercharged Zs that are working great with out an intercooler
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It is simular to the TR6 supercharged set ups. They use a single SU off of a Jag and run about 5 to 6 psi of boost.
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To get any respect in the engineering community the program has to be ABET certified. The universities in MI have special programs for the auto industry, and from the shape of the US auto industry they are probably looking for jobs.
I have a degree in Mech. Eng. Technology from an ABET school and still got some flack. Now that I have a professional engineering licensee no one seems to care any more.
You will never go wrong by expanding your knowledge, but do some research and check out several schools.
Mechanical Engineering covers a broad area of possible work.
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I think the guy in Oregon that sells the New version of the SK racing carbs has them, but they are not cheap. With all of the information it this thread, go to the next leval or fab your own. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863
Ha ha.. Seriously though, around here unless the car is less than 10 years old rust repairs are RARELY that minor. 
Although from what I have heard down there restoring a car has alot more to do with replacing rubber/plastic parts that the heat/UV ray have destroyed.
Rust -_- show your worst rust pictures and help me with mine!
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
If thats where all of the rust is cut the top off and make a covertible, you live in CA! Get a cheap sand blaster from harbor freight and clean the areas down to clean metal. I would put the patch on the inside and use body filler on the out side. The area next to the drip rail has lead/solder in there, at least my 260 did, from the factory so watch the heat.