nissan2ner831

And the fact that $300 cast pistons are a lot easier to replace if something goes wrong in terms of cost....

The video was removed *tear*

Well I've also found Dodge Neons (anywhere from 96 to even a 2001 if I'm not mistaken) that would be in the correct price range as well. Might be an interesting proposition, they have more power than most other cars I've been looking at and I'm sure if I strip them off all their amenities it shouldn't weigh much more than the other cars...Definetly and interesting possibility.

haha yeah, reliability is a key factor for me...having something break down too often would suck. like I said, Acura Integra seems to be a good choice. Tons of available parts, reliability, I know it places well at the races (at least 2 of the top 5 cars in the last race were Integras). And yes, I know the claiming process and how that works, I meant I'm not sure on if their are any restrictions on who can buy your car, and if I'm not mistaken it can be anyone watching the race, the race organizer, the promoter, if I remember correctly from the claim rule

haha if i could find one but I'd feel shitty putting it through the beating those cars go through. Plus parts wouldn't be as plentiful. I'm still gona keep looking, but right now I'm leaning heavily towards a 1990 Acura Integra

Wouldn't using ceramic coatings on the pistons also be beneficial for using hypereutiectic cast pistons? I mean I know it would be beneficial in almost any situation, but it seems it would be especially beneficial on a mild boosted setup, probably could help the pistons deal with more adverse conditions. Would be interesting to see how much power could be handled on hypereutectic cast pistons with a ceramic coating as well.

Yeah, it seems to be a lot of Acura Integras, which has me leaning towards that car. It's obviously capable of winning the races. (from the races I've been to at least) I am starting to lean away from the idea of an old GTI, as they are going to be a bit more difficult to find parts for, and as these cars get banged up a bunch racing, parts availability would be nice. And to be honest, I've never seen someone from teh stands go buy one of the cars. I think you have to be certified to race on the track before you can by one of the cars, but I am not positive about that (the description is not all that clear to me). I think the general idea again is to keep you from buying too new of a car. Oh I guess I should link to the website for the track, here's the different divisions: http://oceanspeedway.com/divisions.php And I would think about jumping into one of the higher classes, but if I had the money for that I'd have the money for a Spec Miata =P And I would rather race on a track. The idea is just to get started on this, see if I like racing on the dirt/mud. And you have to use street tires in this class, so grip is an issue. It really is meant to be a very cheap way to get into racing.

Yeah they do get banged up a BUNCH, contact in the races is almost a gurantee, partially because of the lack of traction on the dirty/mud. Yeah, I've considered going and buying one that is already prepped, but I'm in no rush as the season just ended last night and won't start again until spring =P At least at the local track. So I've got time to decide if I want to buy one that is already prepped (theres a 1990 Prelude Si for sale through the tracks classified ads with several sets of tires and the aluminum bucket seat and belt harness for $1400, which wouldn't be a bad plan). Because I do have a lot of time to make a decision, I'm not going to jump on anything quickly, and hence I can make a decision if I want to buy a prepped car or if I want to get a car and prep it on my own. Just tryin to get some ideas lol. And I'd say the majority of cars in these races are Hondas/Acuras, at least in the top 5 (the main cars they announce) hence why I am leaning towards one of those cars. Though if I could find an older VW GTI I'm thinking that wouldn't be a bad idea, depends on how much they weigh when stripped. Power to weight would be a big factor I think in this kind of race.

As I said in the title, I think I am going to start racing in a local racing group. Theres a dirt track in the town just south of me, and they have several different classes of vehicles that race there, from 4 bangers to 360 Sprint cars with nice Chevy 350s running 600 hp Well the 4 banger class is designed to let anyone start racing, being all the cars that you can race must be 4 cylinders and FWD. No power adders, just stripping the vehicle, welding in a roll cage and putting in an aluminum racing seat....Oh forgot to mention, at the end of the race anyone can buy your car for $1300. The idea is to keep you from buying a newer car. Its a beginners racing league, hence why I want to get into it. Just wondering, if you guys had to choose a car for this league, what would you choose? It's a dirt/mud track, so traction isn't great, but you can't do a bunch to help with that anyways. Just wondering what you guys would choose to race in this league. Also, Honda's newer than 1990 are not allowed. My Short List so far: 1990 Honda Prelude Si 1990 Honda CRX 1990 Acura Integra Possibly an older VW

hehe it's a pipe dream I know. I think from what I've read from 1 fast z was that the maximum bore before you hit water jackets is 86mm (if I'm not mistaken, I'd have to go back and look). If that's the case, then a wet sleeve theoretically could be used to get a larger bore, but I'm no professional so I'd have to leave it to someone who actually has looked and worked on those blocks to either confirm or destroy my pipe dream XD. I don't see why you couldn't bore them out that far if you wet sleeved the block, unless the LD28 has more material and the same sized water jacket around the cylinders as the L28 (if that makes any sense). I think there have been some large displacement LD28's that were sleeved to more than the limit other wise, so I'm basing the idea off those XD

And this is why I hope to eventually build a LD28 converted over to gas and use a nice big stroke =P That extra deck height would let you run much longer rods, but the bore is pretty limited unless you sleeve the block....which of course is part of my pipe dream XD Which includes: Custom crank with an 88mm stroke (be interesting to see if this would fit in the block, and if not what kind of work would have to be done), around 150mm long rods (haven't looked into if any forged OEM rods would work or not) and custom 31mm pin height pistons in a sleeved LD28 bored out to 89mm (leave some room to clean up the bore if needed later) with a dish allowing for a nice big turbo to be placed on it....Yes I would love to have a 3.3L turbo'd LD28....Likely to happen? Well we'll have to see XD (My more realistic goal is a car very much like Garrett76zt's, which while not cheap is much more realistic for most)

ah I looked didn't see it. Now I see where your getting it =P

^Wrong thread again??

haha well not exactly nothing.....not to say that it is all important though. Having a better rod to stroke ratio should allow you to rev higher and should make for a smoother running engine....and reduce stress on the sides of the bore. It's a nice thing to have a good rod to stroke ratio, though not the most important thing (depending on how high you care to make your engine rev).

Yeah I don't see how going through tons of trouble to increase the rod ratio a lot would be too beneficial in *most* engines. Unless you are building that crazy L20 motor with huge rods and spend a huge amount of money on a tranny for some crazy racing league you are in, I personally don't see a real reason to try and exceed a 1.75 ratio anyways. Again, not sure on how short of a custom piston you could make, but if you can get them down to 32mm (I believe, I was tired when I looked this up) you could get close to a 1.75 I believe with a L28 Edit: Well it would have to be down to near 30mm to approach a 1.75 ratio with a L28, which seems awfully short to me. I believe with L24 rods on a L28 crankshaft (and more than likely custom pistons) you can reach a 1.7 rod ratio though, which has been described before in this thread. I was thinking going and building a big stroker motor before and turbocharging it, but I may stick to a more "mild" setup like Garrett's for a while, decide if I want the extra displacement later or not.