nissan2ner831

And the fact that $300 cast pistons are a lot easier to replace if something goes wrong in terms of cost....

The video was removed *tear*

Well I've also found Dodge Neons (anywhere from 96 to even a 2001 if I'm not mistaken) that would be in the correct price range as well. Might be an interesting proposition, they have more power than most other cars I've been looking at and I'm sure if I strip them off all their amenities it shouldn't weigh much more than the other cars...Definetly and interesting possibility.

haha yeah, reliability is a key factor for me...having something break down too often would suck. like I said, Acura Integra seems to be a good choice. Tons of available parts, reliability, I know it places well at the races (at least 2 of the top 5 cars in the last race were Integras). And yes, I know the claiming process and how that works, I meant I'm not sure on if their are any restrictions on who can buy your car, and if I'm not mistaken it can be anyone watching the race, the race organizer, the promoter, if I remember correctly from the claim rule

haha if i could find one but I'd feel shitty putting it through the beating those cars go through. Plus parts wouldn't be as plentiful. I'm still gona keep looking, but right now I'm leaning heavily towards a 1990 Acura Integra

Wouldn't using ceramic coatings on the pistons also be beneficial for using hypereutiectic cast pistons? I mean I know it would be beneficial in almost any situation, but it seems it would be especially beneficial on a mild boosted setup, probably could help the pistons deal with more adverse conditions. Would be interesting to see how much power could be handled on hypereutectic cast pistons with a ceramic coating as well.

Yeah, it seems to be a lot of Acura Integras, which has me leaning towards that car. It's obviously capable of winning the races. (from the races I've been to at least) I am starting to lean away from the idea of an old GTI, as they are going to be a bit more difficult to find parts for, and as these cars get banged up a bunch racing, parts availability would be nice. And to be honest, I've never seen someone from teh stands go buy one of the cars. I think you have to be certified to race on the track before you can by one of the cars, but I am not positive about that (the description is not all that clear to me). I think the general idea again is to keep you from buying too new of a car. Oh I guess I should link to the website for the track, here's the different divisions: http://oceanspeedway.com/divisions.php And I would think about jumping into one of the higher classes, but if I had the money for that I'd have the money for a Spec Miata =P And I would rather race on a track. The idea is just to get started on this, see if I like racing on the dirt/mud. And you have to use street tires in this class, so grip is an issue. It really is meant to be a very cheap way to get into racing.

Yeah they do get banged up a BUNCH, contact in the races is almost a gurantee, partially because of the lack of traction on the dirty/mud. Yeah, I've considered going and buying one that is already prepped, but I'm in no rush as the season just ended last night and won't start again until spring =P At least at the local track. So I've got time to decide if I want to buy one that is already prepped (theres a 1990 Prelude Si for sale through the tracks classified ads with several sets of tires and the aluminum bucket seat and belt harness for $1400, which wouldn't be a bad plan). Because I do have a lot of time to make a decision, I'm not going to jump on anything quickly, and hence I can make a decision if I want to buy a prepped car or if I want to get a car and prep it on my own. Just tryin to get some ideas lol. And I'd say the majority of cars in these races are Hondas/Acuras, at least in the top 5 (the main cars they announce) hence why I am leaning towards one of those cars. Though if I could find an older VW GTI I'm thinking that wouldn't be a bad idea, depends on how much they weigh when stripped. Power to weight would be a big factor I think in this kind of race.

As I said in the title, I think I am going to start racing in a local racing group. Theres a dirt track in the town just south of me, and they have several different classes of vehicles that race there, from 4 bangers to 360 Sprint cars with nice Chevy 350s running 600 hp Well the 4 banger class is designed to let anyone start racing, being all the cars that you can race must be 4 cylinders and FWD. No power adders, just stripping the vehicle, welding in a roll cage and putting in an aluminum racing seat....Oh forgot to mention, at the end of the race anyone can buy your car for $1300. The idea is to keep you from buying a newer car. Its a beginners racing league, hence why I want to get into it. Just wondering, if you guys had to choose a car for this league, what would you choose? It's a dirt/mud track, so traction isn't great, but you can't do a bunch to help with that anyways. Just wondering what you guys would choose to race in this league. Also, Honda's newer than 1990 are not allowed. My Short List so far: 1990 Honda Prelude Si 1990 Honda CRX 1990 Acura Integra Possibly an older VW

hehe it's a pipe dream I know. I think from what I've read from 1 fast z was that the maximum bore before you hit water jackets is 86mm (if I'm not mistaken, I'd have to go back and look). If that's the case, then a wet sleeve theoretically could be used to get a larger bore, but I'm no professional so I'd have to leave it to someone who actually has looked and worked on those blocks to either confirm or destroy my pipe dream XD. I don't see why you couldn't bore them out that far if you wet sleeved the block, unless the LD28 has more material and the same sized water jacket around the cylinders as the L28 (if that makes any sense). I think there have been some large displacement LD28's that were sleeved to more than the limit other wise, so I'm basing the idea off those XD

And this is why I hope to eventually build a LD28 converted over to gas and use a nice big stroke =P That extra deck height would let you run much longer rods, but the bore is pretty limited unless you sleeve the block....which of course is part of my pipe dream XD Which includes: Custom crank with an 88mm stroke (be interesting to see if this would fit in the block, and if not what kind of work would have to be done), around 150mm long rods (haven't looked into if any forged OEM rods would work or not) and custom 31mm pin height pistons in a sleeved LD28 bored out to 89mm (leave some room to clean up the bore if needed later) with a dish allowing for a nice big turbo to be placed on it....Yes I would love to have a 3.3L turbo'd LD28....Likely to happen? Well we'll have to see XD (My more realistic goal is a car very much like Garrett76zt's, which while not cheap is much more realistic for most)

ah I looked didn't see it. Now I see where your getting it =P

^Wrong thread again??

haha well not exactly nothing.....not to say that it is all important though. Having a better rod to stroke ratio should allow you to rev higher and should make for a smoother running engine....and reduce stress on the sides of the bore. It's a nice thing to have a good rod to stroke ratio, though not the most important thing (depending on how high you care to make your engine rev).

Yeah I don't see how going through tons of trouble to increase the rod ratio a lot would be too beneficial in *most* engines. Unless you are building that crazy L20 motor with huge rods and spend a huge amount of money on a tranny for some crazy racing league you are in, I personally don't see a real reason to try and exceed a 1.75 ratio anyways. Again, not sure on how short of a custom piston you could make, but if you can get them down to 32mm (I believe, I was tired when I looked this up) you could get close to a 1.75 I believe with a L28 Edit: Well it would have to be down to near 30mm to approach a 1.75 ratio with a L28, which seems awfully short to me. I believe with L24 rods on a L28 crankshaft (and more than likely custom pistons) you can reach a 1.7 rod ratio though, which has been described before in this thread. I was thinking going and building a big stroker motor before and turbocharging it, but I may stick to a more "mild" setup like Garrett's for a while, decide if I want the extra displacement later or not.

something I read somewhere, don't quote me on it XD Hence why I said "perfect." It's considered around ideal I believe for a street/track motor, again don't quote me on it. Building a higher rod/stroke should allow a higher revving motor period, so if you wanted to go real crazy, you could build it to rev more like a motorcycle engine (As far as I remember, most sports bikes and open wheel race cars have rod/strokes of over 2:1, but in either case they are very different than what you would drive on the street).

haha well.....if your going for a race application then why not have a custom crank built?? I mean if your going to take it all the way go have a company like SCAT build you a custom counterweighted crankshaft. I mean if we are talking race motors here we could go this far =P I like Garrett76zt's build as well...overbore to 89mm, L24 rods and custom pistons with a stock L28 crank. I wonder if you could actually go further than that...f you can get close to 138mm rods you'll approach that "perfect" rod/stroke of 1.75. It just depends on how short you can get the custom pistons I guess (I wouldn't know the minimum you could go, I guess it would depend on whether you were NA or boosted as well).

I whole heartedly agree. I have both a Nintendo Wii and a Playstation 3, yet my Nintendo 64 sees about as much use as both those new systems. Super Smash Bros is an awesome game to play with friends, and despite being a decade old, The Legend of Zelda OOT is one of my favorite games of all time. Don't forget the Mario Party games, me and my friends would spend hours upon hours playing those together as well....for me the Nintendo 64 is almost a nostalgic system, it and the Playstation are what me and my friends grew up with, so it's got that special place in my heart. Oh! Don't forget Starfox either =P Super Mario 64 was great too

First: 20B RX7 Not "original" or something that hasn't been done before, but it's a car I will own someday =) Second: Noble M15 with a VH45DETT Unique idea for sure, original idea was an LS1, but DOHC>Pushrods =P Though a VR38DETT might be more practical There's a few others, but I'm tired and will save my last one for when I am fully awake =P

haha well I know feeding the trolls is usually a bad idea, but I want to make it clear I wouldn't have raced him even if I was very comfortable driving a stick, I wouldn't race in my stepdad's car. It's one thing to race in your own car, but if I was worried about someone hitting his car, somehow I don't think showing up back home with an impound notice would be a good thing....and yes, his response was what was stupid, not noticing that he was close to backing into someone. People make mistakes, that's not the problem was. What's the big-ish deal was how he acted afterwards. And revving your engine doesn't mean you are accomplished at driving ♥♥♥♥, sorry:icon56:...it's not some special skill, and there's no way to know if he was even driving a stick.

Pretty much how I felt....especially being is the exact car my stepdad has wanted since he was my age.....somehow him killing me if someone hit it wouldn't quite describe what would happen to me, even if it was no fault of my own. And yes, I would normally agree a tap on the horn is enough, but with how close he was getting to the back bumper I wasn't taking any chances. I didn't mind that he started backing out as I was waiting for pedestrians. I was just not going to be happy if the first time my stepdad actually let me take his Porsche to school someone hits the car = And no, I don't include S2000's in the Hunduh thing =P I may be too damn big to fit in one, but they are nice cars

Oh I don't have a problem with all Honda's or all Honda owners. Just idiots like this are the ones that bother me, but it doesn't matter if they are in a Honda, Nissan, Audi, Chevy, etc. It just happens to be I tend to think about most of them being in Honda's (because so many of them populate my area). I can name even Honda Civic's that I have a lot of respect for, for instance the one owned by Tage Evanson. A lot of respect for making a name for himself to the point that the B18 that was once in the vehicle has been replaced with a K24 and is working out the issues with that car. But big respect to any Honda Civic that is capable of beating out a Dodge Viper or Corvette Z06 in the quarter mile....naturally aspirated none the less. I just typically don't consider FWD a very viable way to deliver power for sports cars (hence why I dislike most Honda's).

Well my family owns 4 different cars, and with my younger sister recently getting her driver's license, she's been taking the Jeep Wrangler that I usually drive....meaning I've had to learn how to drive a stick in my stepdad's 1978 Porsche 911 SC (not that I'm complaining at all XD). Anyways, so it not being my car means I'm a bit defensive when driving it, as most people would be. Well I get out of class today and walk into the parking garage where I parked. I get into the car, start it up and put it into reverse and start backing out. I notice people are starting to walk behind me so I wait for them to finish, and in the mean time, a guy gets into his Honda Civic that has the Red H badge, and probably exhaust and intake.....well he decided to not pay attention that someone was already backing out and started backing out so I'm waiting for him. While backing out, I don't know if he just didn't see where my car was or what, but he got damn close to my rear bumper so I slam the horn to get him to stop. In response he stops, looks at me like I did something to him, and after he pulls forward revs his engine up acting like a badass XD. I was like really???? Your virtually stock Honda Civic against a 3.0L Porsche?? I mean don't get me wrong, if he had a turbo (did not hear any blow off valve or anything of the kind, so I seriously doubt it), he could maybe get the jump on a N/A Porsche....but seriously, he just looked like a gay Civic driver trying to rev his car like he wants to race the Porsche (I wouldn't have raced him for numerous reasons, the biggest being it is not my car and the second being I'm still learning to drive a stick properly)....it just totally made my day when he did that XD.

haha alright, so its just for clearance for the most part, and to allow longer intake runners? I thought I was reading somewhere that tilting the L-series more has some kind of advantage because of the non-crossflow set up (someone may have been talking out of their ass, I don't know lol) but you tilt it too far and you have to switch to a dry sump system (again according to this random information I found somewhere on the internet....the dry sump requirement would make sense, but I don't see how tilting the engine more would give any benefit other than fitting a taller engine...like an LD28 block I guess).

As we all know, the L-series engines are tilted to one side....other than clearance for the hood, is there any other reason for this?? It's not seen in most other motors now from what I can think about, so I was just wondering what is the reason for this?? Sorry for the noob-ish question, I just was thinking about this and just want to know why (it will drive me crazy if I don't figure out why lol)