ThomaZ

FiveseventyZee, I missed the instruction about using special fluids, I just used regular braking fluid, but Dot 4. Its polyethylene glycol based like Dot 3. hpltree I did not cut or lengthening the SC rod. The treaded portion of the rod is quiet long and it gave me enough adjustment range.

Been under the car and measured. The distance from the edge of the bell housing to the slave cyl hole in the clutch fork is approx 66 mm (2.6â€), and from the transmission to the slave mounting surface its appox 60mm (2,36â€). I have put the measurements in a photo but I suck when it comes to computers, cant manage to upload to my album and link it (despite I have done it before ). I will try to e-mail to you, maybe you can put it in the tread….

What size master cylinder do you use? I have the 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). Another thing you might check is how far in on the clutch arm you drilled the hole for the slave cylinder. If its less then the 7,48†measurement I use that could contribute in making the clutch pedal heavier to operate. See the photo in item 71 above. Good luck in finding the reason!

I noticed that the link to the photo with measurements on how to cut and drill the clutch arm doesn’t work anymore. Here it is again: [img.]http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=14699[/img.]

Just want to confirm what Dan Juday said above. I use the 7/8†master cylinder and I still do. Have not tried the ½†Master as several on this forum claimed that 7/8†was to way to go. I could not find a way to get the clutch fork out without removing the bell housing from the engine. I also pointed that out in the first post. Good luck with your set up!

Thank you, Graeme! My impression was also that the stroke of the stock SC was not really enough. According to Summit webpage the Slave Cylinder Stroke Length is 1.375 inch. I did not measure it when installed so I can not confirm. The car is in storage in another location right now so all I have is the catalogue value. Best regards ThomaZ

Looks good!! Glad it also worked with a shorter fork. Best regards ThomaZ

Good luck, Mikelly! Hope will you post your experiences with the setup. Would be interesting to know how it worked out. ThomaZ

I might have misunderstood but are you referring to the plastic strap that holds to push rod in place during transportation? (See photo) http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=18408&cat=500 It should be removed when installing the Clutch Slave (CS). You might also consider my alternate CS setup for the T5 gearbox. You find it as a sticky in the Drivetrain section. Best regards ThomaZ

As several people have asked for the measurements of to modified clutch fork arm I have been under the car and measured it up. From the deepest part of the U-shaped end to the centre of the hole for the push rod = 190 mm (7.48â€) and to the cut of end = 207 mm (8.15â€). See the photo below for details. Best regards ThomaZ < http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16430&cat=500 >

Yes Frosty383, you are right it is the stock fork that I cut and drilled. Unfortunately I didn’t take any measurement on how much I cut off but the picture gives you an idea. Basically I cut of enough to make it clear the fire wall with a comfortable margin. It is not critical. The only reason I did cut it was to clear the firewall. And if you look at the bottom picture of the tread; you do not have to cut much to clear. Just cutting of the bowl shaped outer tip would probably be sufficient.

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[imgl]http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=15011&cat=500[/img] I have my struts shortened 1,5â€, Modern Motorsports coilovers with 8†springs and Panasport FS 16†x 8†with 20 mm + offset. They are not in their catalogue, have to be special ordered. ($ 305 each 2006). Tires are 225 x 50 -16. I have no problem with rubbing.