ThomaZ
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Posts posted by ThomaZ
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Been under the car and measured. The distance from the edge of the bell housing to the slave cyl hole in the clutch fork is approx 66 mm (2.6â€), and from the transmission to the slave mounting surface its appox 60mm (2,36â€).
I have put the measurements in a photo but I suck when it comes to computers, cant manage to upload to my album and link it (despite I have done it before
). I will try to e-mail to you, maybe you can put it in the tread…. -
What size master cylinder do you use? I have the 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit).
Another thing you might check is how far in on the clutch arm you drilled the hole for the slave cylinder. If its less then the 7,48†measurement I use that could contribute in making the clutch pedal heavier to operate. See the photo in item 71 above. Good luck in finding the reason!
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I noticed that the link to the photo with measurements on how to cut and drill the clutch arm doesn’t work anymore. Here it is again:
[img.]http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=gallery&module=images§ion=viewimage&img=14699[/img.]
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Just want to confirm what Dan Juday said above. I use the 7/8†master cylinder and I still do. Have not tried the ½†Master as several on this forum claimed that 7/8†was to way to go.
I could not find a way to get the clutch fork out without removing the bell housing from the engine. I also pointed that out in the first post.
Good luck with your set up!
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Thank you, Graeme!
My impression was also that the stroke of the stock SC was not really enough. According to Summit webpage the Slave Cylinder Stroke Length is 1.375 inch. I did not measure it when installed so I can not confirm. The car is in storage in another location right now so all I have is the catalogue value.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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Looks good!! Glad it also worked with a shorter fork.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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Good luck, Mikelly! Hope will you post your experiences with the setup. Would be interesting to know how it worked out.
ThomaZ
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I might have misunderstood but are you referring to the plastic strap that holds to push rod in place during transportation? (See photo) http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=18408&cat=500 It should be removed when installing the Clutch Slave (CS).
You might also consider my alternate CS setup for the T5 gearbox. You find it as a sticky in the Drivetrain section.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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As several people have asked for the measurements of to modified clutch fork arm I have been under the car and measured it up. From the deepest part of the U-shaped end to the centre of the hole for the push rod = 190 mm (7.48â€) and to the cut of end = 207 mm (8.15â€). See the photo below for details.
Best regards
ThomaZ
< http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16430&cat=500 >
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Yes Frosty383, you are right it is the stock fork that I cut and drilled. Unfortunately I didn’t take any measurement on how much I cut off but the picture gives you an idea. Basically I cut of enough to make it clear the fire wall with a comfortable margin. It is not critical.
The only reason I did cut it was to clear the firewall. And if you look at the bottom picture of the tread; you do not have to cut much to clear. Just cutting of the bowl shaped outer tip would probably be sufficient.
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[imgl]http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=15011&cat=500[/img]
I have my struts shortened 1,5â€, Modern Motorsports coilovers with 8†springs and Panasport FS 16†x 8†with 20 mm + offset. They are not in their catalogue, have to be special ordered. ($ 305 each 2006). Tires are 225 x 50 -16. I have no problem with rubbing.
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"couldn't find a pushing type SC on line!!! "
Exactly! That’s why I went for a pulling SC instead. And mounted it so it pulls the fork arm towards the gearbox which in turn pushes the throw out bearing towards the engine as the fork arm is mounted on a pivot.
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Sorry to hear that. I have never worked on a Ford T5 so I can’t tell for sure. A few thoughts;
I you study the system that you removed, doesn’t it give you any clues to in what direction the fork arm should move?
Could you describe what’s not working in more detail? Should we assume that the cutch hydraulic system has been connected, properly bleed, and the SC moves when you push down the clutch pedal, but the clutch don’t disengage?
I you try to push the fork arm by hand, can you feel the resistance from the clutch springs? That could give you a clue to which direction the clutch arm should move.
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To my knowledge it has the same set up regarding the clutch fork as the T5 mounted on Chevy engines.
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If you are using my set up above the SC shall be pulling towards the tranny.
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I presume it is still a Borg & Warner T5. To my knowledge (and I hope that other members on the board can correct me if I am wrong) the T5 mounted in Ford and Chevy hade the same external dimensions. So therefore the Wilewood set up should work for you too.
What is “best†is a matter of personal preference. I think this set up (as Mikelly pointed out) is cost effective. The Wilwood slave cost $74 at Summit, the Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing $376. An other advantage with the Wilwood slave is that it is much easier to service and replace than a Hydraulic throwout bearing.
Pros and cons with hydraulic throwout bearings have been discussed before; a search will give you lots of reading.
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You kind of need both. I hade my hose made by a local workshop that specialize in hydraulic hoses and fittings. If you do the same they will ask two things:
1) How long do you want the hose? (800 mm (31.5") long) and
2) What type of fittings do you want at the ends (AN4 fittings with 90 degree bend at both ends).
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But M77Z, it is a Sticky! (My first and I am shamelessly proud over it!!)
Well, it has gone over six months since installed and the installation now has approx 4000 km (2.500 miles) on it with no problems what so ever, so lets hope I am more lucky then you where ezzzzzzz!
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Unfortunately I did not record any measurement on how much I cut. I test fitted it and trimmed accordingly. It is not critical. I think the top picture in the tread gives you a good indication.
The only reason I did cut it was to clear the firewall. And if you look at the bottom picture of the tread; you do not have to cut much to clear. Just cutting of the bowl shaped outer tip would probably be sufficient.
Good luck with your installation and please let me know if I can be of any more assistance!
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Thank you for your positive comments, Eundurorider! I am not completely sure on what you mean with adjustable, but the only adjustments I am aware of is the treaded rods in both ends of the slave cylinder. That means that you can adjust the total lengthen of the slave cylinder.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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I have a 280Z strut on the bench that I tried to measure, but my vernier calliper doesn’t reach down far enough. The threaded portion is 49.5mm (1.95â€). But further down the wall is thicker, I would guess 48mm inner diameter.
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You can get the Panasport FS-16 in a 16x8, 4-4.5 bolt circle +20mm offset in a silver finish for $305.00 each. I ordered mine from Discount Tire in Renton, WA. Ask for Jas Burns, very friendly and helpful.
The 16 x 8 Panasports FS is not on their homepage (the C8 is) The FS need to be special ordered but in my case the rims where in stock at Panasport in California so there was 3-5 business days shipment time. Got them early September this year.
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Good you pointed that out, zalomz! It is important to remember that the C8 are only for racing and it says so on Panasports homepage too.
My 240Z is driven on the street so therefore I choose the FS design. Panasports homepage only list FS in 16â€x7†but they are available in 16â€x 8†also, but they need to be specially ordered.
). I will try to e-mail to you, maybe you can put it in the tread….
Alternate B&W T5 clutch slave set up.
in Drivetrain
Posted
FiveseventyZee,
I missed the instruction about using special fluids, I just used regular braking fluid, but Dot 4. Its polyethylene glycol based like Dot 3.
hpltree
I did not cut or lengthening the SC rod. The treaded portion of the rod is quiet long and it gave me enough adjustment range.