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ThomaZ

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Posts posted by ThomaZ

    R200 Handling Issues

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Yes, I did measure center to center. Even had printout from your webpage next to me when doing it. I can re-measure, but my working schedule is kind of hectic right now so it can take a couple of days.

     

    A taught. When compressing I just rested one end against the floor and pushed the other one down until it stopped. Is there any more to it?

    R200 Handling Issues

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I am in the process of doing the R200 swap into my 240Z -72 right now. So I went down in the garage an measured the two rear driveshaft that a removed from a 280Z-78 in a junkyard:

     

    I forgot to label them with which side I removed them from :oops: so I just call them Shat A and B. Here goes:

     

    Shaft A: Fully compressed 316 mm (12.44â€)

     

    Shaft A: Fully extended 350 mm (13.78â€)

     

    Shaft B: Fully compressed 314 mm (12.36â€)

     

    Shaft B: Fully extended 342 mm (13.46â€)

     

    Seams inconsistent that they should be longer then the 240Z compressed but shorter extended, but I measured them twice to be sure. On the other hand they came from a junkyard car and lots of parts could have been shifted on that car during its 25+ years.

    U-Joint removal

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    80LT1 has some really good advice there. I replaced my U-joints in both rear driveshafts last week but I needed to take them to a workshop with a hydraulic press to get them out.

    Good Luck!

    Is there any way to check without removing heads & manif

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Is there any way to check the compression ratio and if I have a roller or flat tapped cam on my Chevy SB without removing heads and manifold?

     

    The Chevy 350 I purchased to my 240Z came from a -70 Nova. I was built by a speed shop two years ago and pulled the Nova through the 1/8 mile strip in 7,9 sek which should equates to 348 hp. The seller admitted he was uncertain if he remembered the specifications correctly, but the engine ran nicely and the price was right.

     

    After educating myself more about V8:s and comparing the engine with the sellers spec. I found out this:

     

    CSB 350 bored .030 to 355cui.(3970014) Two bolt main with stock crank and rods. Engine number matches

     

    TRW forged 11:1 pistons Isn’t that very high for a street engine with iron heads on pump gas?

     

    Powerpack heads (3795896) Head numbers matches

     

    Comp cam roller cam 221/221degres duration at .050 and .447 in lift I have searched through Comp Cams catalogue and can’t not find any cam with those figures. The engine has a standard sheet metal timing-chain cover. Shouldn’t that be a thick cast cover if it was a roller cam?

     

    Edelbrock performer manifold Wrong, The manifold is a World Product Merlin Sportsman II

     

    Holley 780 carb (fourport vacuum) Correct

     

    GM HEI distributor Correct

     

    So I am not sure what type of cam and what compression ratio I really have. The engine is ready to fit in my Z so I do not want to take it apart. Any tricks to find that out without removing the heads and manifold? Thanks in advance!

     

    ThomaZ

     

    http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/bearcatf8f2002/lst?.dir=/Datsun+240Z+-72&.src=ph&.view=

    240Z replacement weatherstrip experiences so far

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Thanks for the advice, SPIIRIT. I have both a heat gun and a Wen-Gun type soldering iron. The method you describe is the same as we use when cutting wing foam cores for Radio Controlled aircraft models. (An other hobby). I will try on some scrap weather strip first.

     

    I also need to look at the door adjustment. My -72 240Z did not have any door weather strip in when I bough it. The previous owner removed and scraped them, then ordered new ones that newer showed up.

     

    I must learn to use the Search function better. A specially before ordering something. :oops:

     

    Good point, Owen, I will go easy on the door slamming. The MSA weather strip is not a loop. You can see a photo of it in picture #35 in my photo album: http://photos.yahoo.com/bearcatf8f2002 The other weather strip on the photo are for the rear hatch, inner and outer seal.

     

    I let you know if and how I solve this.

     

    ThomaZ

    240Z replacement weatherstrip experiences so far

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I installed the MSA door weather strip (part# 311064A & 311075A) yesterday and I can’t close the door!! If I slam it real hard (I mean REAL hard!) I can make it lock on the first detent. But the side widow frame bulges outwards. The rubber seams to be way to stiff. Anyone else hade the same problem? How did you solve it?

     

    ThomaZ

    Lowering springs + spacers + raised CA points=not a good com

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    New member, first post. I am in the process of incorporating the following modifications on my 240Z-72. New springs from MJP Auto that will lower the car 1â€. The so called “bump-steer†spacers from MSA P/N 23-4185, 0,74†tick. And raising the lower control arm points on the front cross member acc to JTR manual page 16-8. I have the parts and I have started with knocking out the reinforcement washers in the cross member but I have not drilled the holes yet.

     

    I have search this site a lot and when finding threads like this: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000344#000000 I have started to think that combining all three might not be a good idée…. any inputs?

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