ThomaZ
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Posts posted by ThomaZ
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When I installed a CSB 350 together with a Borg-Warner T5 NWC gearbox in my 1972 240Z I followed the JTR manual almost to the letter.
As recommended by members on this board I used an 7/8" master cylinder (MC) from Wilwood (WIL-260-6765 at Summit). It fits the hole pattern in the firewall without trimming. I installed an AN4 fitting (like Summit RUS-66042-1) and a custom-made steel braided hose down to the stock GM plastic slave cylinder (SC).
The set up had several disadvantages. The connection to the plastic SC was fragile. I hade to hammer a bulge into the lower part of the fire wall to get sufficing clearance for the cutch arm.
It was so difficult to bleed. I didn't get it to work well. The clutch disengaged, but just barely.
The SC ended up very close to the down tub from the headers. I made an heat shield but it doubt it worked.
After just 1000 kilometers (625 miles) the SC quite and dumped all the fluid out around the pushrods. I was reluctant to just reinstall a new plastic SC so I started to investigate an alternative; and bellow is what I ended up with.
I used a SC with aluminum housing from Wilwood (WIL-260-1333 at Summit Racing). It is a pulling clutch SC so it needs a new mount and a modified clutch arm.
The stock clutch arm was shorted and an a hole drilled in it for the push rod
I fabricated a SC mount from 1/8" steel. I made some simple cardboard templates an the cut it out with a hack saw and bent it in a wise. It was then stick welded together. I made it to pick up on of the "ears" on the gearbox housing and two mounting bolts on the aft face of the gear box. It is a simple design and I hope the photos will aid if you wish to duplicate it.
The stock nipple on the Wilwood SC was replace with an other AN4 nipple and I had a new steel braided hose made. It is 800 mm (31.5") long and has 90 degree bend on both ends.
The rest of the photos shows the system installed. It works really well. It was simple to bleed and it disengages and engages distinctively. As can be seen from the photo it clears the firewall and the trans tunnel. It sits higher up in the trans tunnel an clears the exhaust tube with comfortable margin.
The disadvantages is that you must remove the bell housing from the engine to be able to remove and install the clutch arm and the clutch arm is hard as nails to drill in! Use a drill press, top quality drill bits, work slowly and use cutting fluid.
I have now put approx. 2000 km (1.250 miles) on it and it still works well, so I thought it would be something worthwhile sharing.
Best regards
ThomasZ
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I had the same taught doing my V8 conversion. I use the stock heater, heater valve and fan. The problem I found was that the heater valve I located so close to the firewall. I have included links to some photos I took prior to disassemble my car.
Please not that the hose coming through the lower hole curves up and goes on the brass fitting on the heater valve. The hose has been disconnected from the fitting on the photo. The hose coming through the upper hole goes directly on the heater element. Please note that the fan and fan housing is removed on the photos.
I found no relay good way of moving the holes. Going inwards they would collide with the heater box. Going outward they would collide with the fan box.
In the end I left them as stock. Here is a picture of my engine bay now. It is a bit cramped but it works. I have the engine in the JTR position.
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240Z-72, Chevy SB 350, T5 gearbox, R200 diff.
Radiator, water pump, and manifold in aluminium, 16lb flywheel.
Full tank, tools, but no rear bumper or spare tire
2622lb (1180 kg)
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I just did the same job this winter. What I had problem finding was the foam the where bonded to the “flapping doors†inside the heater box. It’s a foam sheet but it also has a hard thin surface. After some search on the Internet it suddenly struck me that I was looking at the perfect replacement lying next to my computer.
Mouse pads!
A quick trip to the computer store and they had cheap pads in similar quality as the original foam. Two pads where enough to cover both doors on both sides. I used ordinary contact cement to bond them. So, when you stopped laughing you might give it a try!
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I did it in three weeks. This was the fist time I tried something as big as an engine change, had only don ordinary repair work before. Things that made me succeed:
I had spent almost two years sourcing parts, so I had everything on hand. For example; I did not only buy an electric fuel pump. I also got the fittings, fuel hoses, clamps, fuel lines, electrical connecters and wires before putting everything in a Ziploc bag and stored it.
I followed the JTR manual almost down to the letter.
I worked 10 to 12 hours a day for three weeks. I had one rest day. (Had some problem keeping motivation up in the end.)
Things that took extra time:
I spent almost 2.5 days on tiding up and repainting the engine compartment.
I spent almost 1.5 days repairing rust in the battery area that was worse then I first expected.
I spend 5 days (really!) on fabricating a dual custom exhaust system. I had purchased different bends and strait pipes and made everything from the header back to the muffler including an X-pipe in front of the diff. I am a beginner on welding and was learning as a vent.
(After test-driving I found out it was too loud and had to redo it by installing an extra muffler!)
An alternative had been towing the car to a muffler shop but I had no one I felt I could trust in the area.
Bottom line: It’s doable in your time fram if you preplan and don’t have to spend a lot of time driving around getting parts while you should be working on the car.
Good luck!
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Hello Marcus,
Was there anything wrong with the answer I gave Your question on the Swedish Lazzat forum three weeks ago? Actually I gave you the same advice as Tim: Get the JTR manual and start using the search function at HybridZ. Any question you might have is already answered here many times!
Even tough I have been surfing around here almost daily for nearly four years I have not been posting much, because I have not needed to. The search function has almost always given me the answer and when ever I found an interesting thread I use the “Show printable version†under “Thread tools†and print it out. I have four full binders now with information that has been invaluable during my swap.
There isn’t too many V8 Z-cars around in Sweden, I only know of one more except for my own; and that is Henrik’s “Mechanix Menace†http://www.cardomain.com/profile/chevyz240. I have also herd rumours of three others but never been able to locate the owners.
One reason can be that Sweden’s “anti tamper laws†make it hard to get V8 Z-cars approved for road use. (mine is not but don’t tell anyone!
)You might reconsider your use of a -78 as the emission laws make anything newer then -74 even harder to get approved.As I said before you are welcome to browse my photo album and you can also PM me if you any specific questions.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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I have a rather mild 355 with a T5 gearbox and R200 diff in my -72 240Z. I went for a 2 ¼†dual system mostly because the JTR manual recommended 2 ¼â€. I used Summit block hugging headers, Speedway down pipes #910-13385, and two Magnaflow mufflers. Both are two-in-two-out with #11378 in front of the diff and the longer #11385 at the stock location in the rear.
The rest of the system I fabricated from strait pipes and 90 degree bends. It took much longer time then expected mainly because I am a beginner in welding and it was the first time I made my own exhaust.
In my fist setup I had an X-pipe in front of the diff and only the rear muffler but that was too loud for street use, so I replaced the X-pipe with an extra muffler. It was a tight fit in the transmission tunnel I actually had to hammer some clearances for it. But nothing scrapes when going over speed bumps and I am pleased with the present sound.
There are pics of both setups in my photo album under “Engine changeâ€
ThomaZ
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A friend of mine gave me the part numbers he used in his conversion. He has the Camaro radiator and the 350 CSB in the JTR position. Both hoses are to long and need to be trimmed.
Upper hose ECR21183 = NAPA NBH7893
Lower hose ECR20981 = NAPA NBH7716
Maybe something worth checking in to….I have the JTR setup but a Griffin radiator and the upper one fitted well, and the lower on was very close but I finally had to go for a universal one…
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If you want to avoid drilling in the SC you can make an adapter from an AN-fitting (can also be found at Summit).
However it requires that you have access to a late. A friend made one for my T5 SC. You can see it in my photoalbum; go in under Datsun240Z-72, picture #37 and #43.
The benefit is that then you can use a standard hydraulic line with AN-couplings, easy to find and a hydraulic shop can make one in just the right length for your set up. This mod has worked well for me.
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Chevy High Performance Magazine tested a tested a pair of Pro Topline iron 180cc heads in their February 2004 issue on a CSB 383. For flow numbers and dyno chart go to this link: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0402_small/index.html
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Hej Peter,
According to Bob Waars book â€How to hotrod and race your Datsun†page 149 the 240Z European spring rates (Stage 1) are 100 lbs front and 112 lbs rear. Those spring rates are said to be an approximate 21 % increase in front and 11% increase in the rear over the U.S. spring rates.
The book further states that the 240Z European spring rates (Stage 2) are 122 lbs front and 140 lbs rear.
This has been discussed before; a search on “spring rates†brought up 168 hits…. Here are some you might want to take a look at:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97786&highlight=spring+rate
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94060&highlight=spring+rate
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90109&highlight=spring+rate
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87210&highlight=spring+rate
Best regards
ThomaZ
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I might depend on the alternator design. My CSB had a Boch alternator on it which came from an -80 Audi/VW. It has an internal regulator.
When connecting the #2 wire direct to the battery per the JTR manual page 9-5 the battery was drained over night. Checking with an amp meter I had 2.7 Amps going from the battery with everything shot off. It dropped to zero as soon as I pulled out the #2 wire from the alternator.
My car electrician says I must wire the #2 wire over the ignition lock and that I have not destroyed the alternator. The car is in winter storage now so I haven’t rewired it yet and can’t confirm if his right.
ThomaZ
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I did it in three weeks. This was the fist time I tried something as big as an engine change, had only don ordinary repair work before. Things that made me succeed:
I had spent almost two years sourcing parts, so I had everything on hand. For example; I did not only buy an electric fuel pump. I also got the fittings, fuel hoses, clamps, fuel lines, electrical connecters and wires before putting everything in a Ziploc bag and stored it.
I followed the JTR manual almost down to the letter.
I worked 10 to 12 hours a day for three weeks. I had one rest day. (Had some problem keeping motivation up in the end.)
Things that took extra time:
I spent almost 2.5 days on tiding up and repainting the engine compartment.
I spent almost 1.5 days repairing rust in the battery area that was worse then I first expected.
I spend 5 days (really!) on fabricating a dual custom exhaust system. I had purchased different bends and strait pipes and made everything from the header back to the muffler including an X-pipe in front of the diff. I am a beginner on welding and was learning as a vent.
An alternative had been towing the car to a muffler shop but I had no one I felt I could trust in the area.
Bottom line: It’s doable in three weeks if you preplan and don’t have to spend a lot of time driving around getting parts while you should be working on the car.
Good luck!
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Thank you for the information, Steve! Very informative
. I contacted a local bearing warehouse today and they should do a search and it was not impossible that they could find it, probably Koyo England could have it….. -
Unfortunately it seams that Nissan don’t carry the 38335-N3100 bearing any more. I first tried with Nissan Europe (where I live) but they responded that it was discontinued. I then asked a friend in Seattle to check with Nissan USA but he got the some answer. Does anyone know if there are some dealers that still carry it?
For what’s it worth I have included the list I made over the seals and bearings in a R200. Be aware that I did the list to aid my own purchasing and I have not confirmed it yet. In other word I have not yet installed the bearings and seals that I bought because I missing the 38335-N3100 bearing.
List of Bearings and Seals in a R200 differential.
Counting from the front and backwards. This list is comprised with the help of Nissan IPC, PartsAmerica.com, MSA-catalog, and HybridZ.com.
Front Seal:
Nissan 38189-N3100
Beck/Arnley 0523173 $ 6.99
MSA 20-2505 $11.10
Front Ball Bearing:
Nissan 38335-N3100
Front roller bearing:
Nissan 38120-13201
Chicago Rawhide BR32305 $26.99
Rear roller bearing:
Nissan 38120-61000
BCA 32307 $56.99
Chicago Rawhide BR32307 $35.99
Side roller bearings: (2 ea req.)
Nissan 38440-N3100
BCA 30209C $57.99
Side seals: (2 ea req.)
Nissan 38342-N3100
BCA 223542 $6.55
Beck/Arnley 0521401 $5.59
Motor City S223542 $4.24
MSA 20.2526 $8.25
Rear gasket:
Nissan 38320-N3111
(replaces old P/N N38353-N3100)
MSA 20-2543 $3.51
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I have a Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator (Summit P/N HLY-12-803), it’s unused but the instruction papers are gone.
There is one port underneath marked “IN†and two on each side marked “OUTâ€. I am planning connecting one “OUT†port to the engine and the other to the fuel return line that leads back to the fuel tank.
The pump is a Carter 7 psi street/strip (Summit P/N CRT-4594) and the engine a CSB 350 with a Holly 780 carburettor.
However I can’t figure out which port on the regulator that is regulated and should be connected to the engine. I have searched Holley’s homepage and this forum but with out any luck.
When searching my file over engine installation pictures I found one where the owner hade plugged one of the “OUT†ports on the regulator. On the fuel hose between the other “OUT†port on the regulator and the carburettor he had a fuel filter with a fitting for the fuel return line on it.
Have I misunderstood this? Should one “OUT†port always be plugged?
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I had some thoughts along the same line. Thanks for your input!
ThomaZ
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Did you ever solve this? I am having the exact same problem with understanding the hook up of the Carter electrical fuel pump in my 240Z-72. The only difference I can see is that the wire you refer to as black-blue is green-white on my 240Z.
Regards
ThomaZ
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No, the top two pictures are not Photochopped. I know Henrik and visited him about a month ago and looked at the car. It is truly impressive!
I have also given Henrik a heads up that his car I featured in this thread so he can have a chance to comment on how he solved the window issue and other questions that might turn up.
Best regards
ThomaZ
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According to the schematic in the Haynes Manual there are only four wires shown going to the radio. One is the antenna lead, the second goes to earth. For the third and forth no colour code is given. However the third attaches to a Blue wire and the forth to a Red-blue. Hope it helps some.
Regards
ThomaZ
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What I recall you have to elongate the holes in the firewall and cut the pushrod and rethread the clevis like shown in the JTR manual. I have no experience with using the stock MC on a T5 but JTR claims it is not sufficient. It has a 5/8†bore and JTR recommends ¾†bore for the T5 however several members of this board recommends going up to the 7/8â€.
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You could also try pressing a heat sink for example a copper bar against the joint from the other side; it helps burn through a little.
Personally I gave up trying to wells butt joints; even if I hade the slightest gap I burnet through.
Instead I bought a pliers at an auto repair shop that could joggle the edge of the repair piece. I find it much easier to weld lap joints and if you joggle the edge I think it looks god enough.
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The four bolts that hold the T5 against the bell housing are standard M12 x 1,75. They need to be about 40 mm (1 9/16â€) long.
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I use a Wilwood P/N WIL-260-6765 Master Cylinder, High Volume, 7/8 in.Bore, 1/8 -27 Outlet, Die-Cast Aluminum cost $49.99 at Summit Racing.
)You might reconsider your use of a -78 as the emission laws make anything newer then -74 even harder to get approved.
. I contacted a local bearing warehouse today and they should do a search and it was not impossible that they could find it, probably Koyo England could have it…..
Panasport
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Panasport offers their FS-16 in a 16x8, 4-4.5 bolt circle +20mm offset in a silver finish for $305.00 each. I ordered mine from Discount Tire in Renton, WA. Ask for Jas Burns, very friendly and helpful.
The rims where in stock at Panasoprt in California so there was 3-5 business days shipment time. Order them last week so they should be in any day now.
(You might wonder why someone from Sweden orders wheel in Renton, but I go to Seattle rather frequently on business trips so I will just pick them up next time)