jhm

Just to be clear....are you saying that the gauge is not reading at all, and the charge light is not working either? For starters, the gauge can be connected to any hot lead (and ground) in your electrical system, and it should read just fine. You can verify this with a standalone multimeter. And then once the gauge is reading correctly, the charging bulb is pretty much irrelevant IMHO. Sorry if I'm misunderstanding the issue and didn't address your problem.

Still available.

Just FYI....that JDM ad now reads "No intl shipping". Was that there when you first looked at that kit? (For that price tag, they should be willing to ship to the moon.)

Hello all, got what I needed.....many thanks to the generosity of 72240Z. Thanks also to the others that replied. Admins, thread can be closed or deleted if so desired.

Here is the schematic, if anyone wants it....illustrates functionality in each of the key's positions:

Much appreciated -- no rush at all!

IIRC, stock spring rates were in the range of 100-140 lb/in? At the risk of gross generalization, most "lowering springs" are in the range of 180-200. If you're wanting stiffer spring rates, most people go with adjustable coilovers. Hope this helps.

The end link bushing retaining caps from Energy Suspension are flatter than the ones you're using, and may give you the additional clearance you need between the cap and the LCA.

Your question is really so open-ended, it's pretty hard to give an answer that means anything. What are you replacing the stock components with? (The gist of your question implies engine/trans swaps, etc). Also, sounds like you're planning to have a shop do all the work for you...that alone will triple or quadruple the total cost of the project. As seattlejester suggested, you can start your research by reading as many of the "build threads" that other members have posted.....that may give you an idea of the magnitude of work that's required for a full & complete build/restoration. You will also want to make some firm decisions about your goals for the car before you spend a single dollar on it.

Looking for a black plastic rear strut tower cap, as pictured. I only need one, but willing to buy both if the seller is wanting to sell as a pair. Yes, I know there are some available on eBay and new from multiple vendors; but I'd rather give my business to a fellow HybridZ'er if possible. Thanks all.

Many people using an RT-style diff mount have eliminated the lower front differential crossmember....it's bulky, heavy, and often interferes with a larger exhaust system. If you are wanting to eliminate yours, but are worried about negatively impacting structural integrity (between the left and right LCA mounting points), you can fabricate your own crossbrace from suitably-sized flat bar or angel steel. Not as pretty as the T3 unit (like Jon mentioned), but $140 cheaper.

Check this one out: http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/images/Dimensions/214L.GIF.

Glad it worked out. Headlight covers have been in very short supply for the last year or more, so it's fortunate that Altec is keeping the production line open.

You probably already realize this, but we're talking metal zip ties (like the kind that are used on CV axle rubber boots). Plastic zip ties will typically fail in very short order.

If you're ok with buying new, many folks have bought directly from Altec recently. They produce them, and seem to be the only vendor that has them in stock: http://altecproducts.com/datsun-z-and-zx/?fbclid=IwAR0fs_SVuRb1jNR9nD4i0xi97PPDUVg6RM4xRW_29Foir3Cz-GvAjx69kuM

wingwalker, do you have the option of doing a low-mount alternator (on the driver side)? That's what I did with mine, and I have roughly 1" clearance between the alt and the frame rail and no interference issues with the steering rack. (However, the JTR mounting location might make a low-mount difficult?)

Bigger does not necessarily equate to more traction. A smaller high-performance tire can easily give better traction than a larger cheap tire. If you're absolutely dead set on stuffing the largest possible wheel/tire combo under your fenders, you may want to invest in a wheel mock-up tool (or make one yourself).

I don't believe that design will be adjustable on the car, if they are all RH threads. You'll need a double adjuster with RH threads on one end and LH threads on the other. I'm using one like this on my adjustable front LCAs: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-Double-Adjuster-3-4-16-Threads-5-1-2-Inch-Length,49011.html?sku=91012500&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2PO3qtzL4AIVD6rsCh0KNwaoEAQYASABEgKEwfD_BwE P.S. I believe the name of the piece you asked about is a threaded rod end adapter. That design would work if you can find them in opposite thread directions.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your recent acquisition...looks like a very nice clean original! If you plan on doing any auto-x or HPDE, the Tarheels club is a great group of folks and is very active in your area: https://www.thscc.com/.

Nice set of inner stub axles (properly known as side flanges) for the R160. These are 25 spline, bolt-in style. Threads, splines, seals and shafts all look in good condition. These can also be modified to be compatible with a Subaru LSD R160. Thanks for looking.

This is a pretty good product for rust protection anywhere internal....comes with a 2' hose to get at all the nooks and crannies: https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html.

I guess one could argue that they protected the bumpers in some small way, but I think most people treat them as cosmetic items. The appeal they usually have is for someone restoring their 240 who wants to have every optional piece of equipment that was available at that time. You will usually find the largest crowd of restoration purists on Classiczcar, and some of the S30 FB pages (e.g. 240z Registry). Purely my own impressions, and I'm sure others will chime in if they have differing opinions.

Yes, the override bar and bumperettes were options...often dealer-installed. Some restoration fans like them (for restoration purposes...a la ClassicZCar), and many others prefer the clean lines of the thin bumpers w/o them. If you decide you don't want to keep them, and they're still in good shape, you can usually sell them for a few bucks.

One complete set of billet aluminum CV adapters, to convert your half-shafts to CV axles, made by Mattndew (on the510Realm). Brand new, never installed. These are for the 930-style CV joints (108mm). Four adapters total, to convert both rear half-shafts. Thanks for looking.

BUMP