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jhm

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jhm last won the day on December 11 2020

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About jhm

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Male
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    Hampton, VA

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  1. Good tips from @NewZed on the rear brakes. Most of the OTS drum brake shoes from parts stores are so-so at best. Fortunately, Porterfield produces a nice shoe that fits our rear drum brakes....you can check them out here: https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/Products/?YearSelected=1972&ModelSelected=240Z&MakeSelected=NISSAN&selectManufacturer=Porterfield Brakes
  2. When you say "very firm peddle"....I'm wondering if you are getting power assist from the brake booster. Why do you say the "booster seems good" -- have you actually tested it, or had someone else test it? It's not uncommon for the check valve to either be installed backwards or to malfunction. Either condition will result in little/no assist from the booster, so I'd start by checking that first. Also, as @NewZed suggested...harder compound pads won't function properly until they get some heat into them. It is for this exact reason that I will often run organic, or s
  3. I would check with Jamie at River City Speed....he works on everything, from mild to wild. He's currently building a turbo LS, tube chassis S30 for his own personal use. He has done work for many members here, including some of our SysAdmins. https://www.facebook.com/Rivercityspeed
  4. jhm

    Utah 260z

    Welcome, and thanks for sharing. If you're starting with a relatively rust-free shell, you are WAY ahead of the game. Hope you enjoy the journey, and please continue to post updates as the journey continues. HybridZ contains a wealth of info; so chances are someone has encountered just about every challenge/issue that you will face along the way....sometimes you need to do some digging to find the answers; but they're usually there somewhere! Cheers.
  5. River City Speed in Richmond, VA; owned and operated by Jamie Taylor. I don’t think he has a website, but does have a page on FB.
  6. I have done gravity bleed, with good results, but not on my Zs. (Speed bleeders make the job so much easier and quicker.). One thing I learned about gravity bleed technique is to only do one corner at a time, otherwise one corner could start sucking air from another corner. First time I did it, I thought I could save some time by doing both rears at the same time but that ended up being a mistake. Hope this helps. P.S. Check out Race Ramp wheel cribs...they are really nice.
  7. Great info....thx for sharing, @MetalMagoo!
  8. I’ve used the stock balancer on a couple of swaps; currently using this one on current swap: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-161350 No, the timing marks have never been accurate for me. I have always measured it mechanically and adjusted the marks as necessary.
  9. Looks nice. I’ve used HyperCo springs for years w/o any complaints. GLWS. May want to post this in our “Parts for sale” sub-forum?
  10. Yes, should work....provided offset is compatible (or can be made compatible with spacers). I'm assuming it is, as Edan seems to be producing those 5-lug hubs specifically for compatibility with the Z31 5-lug, if I read his literature correctly. I'm sorry I don't have first-hand experience with that swap to confirm 100%. I do, however, have the attached handy spreadsheet of tech data on Nissan rotors that I snatched off of one of the 510 forums I belong to -- may come in handy for you, or others, in the process of upgrading the stock brakes. Nissan Brake Rotors.xlsx
  11. As confirmed by @Miles, the Toyota front brake upgrade is still very much relevant and a popular swap. If you haven't seen the thread in the FAQ section, you can find it here (even though it was initiated in 2005, most of it is all still relevant and a wealth of information): https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Kit vs piece it together yourself: Several vendors offer a variety of kits, from mild to wild, and many of them offer individual pieces of their kits if you prefer to pick-n-choose. A few of these vendors in
  12. Good god....that thing is disintegrated. Even if it were free, you'd be getting yourself into an long, expensive restoration; and you still may never be happy with the final result. Is there a particular reason you want a 2+2? Many folks (myself included) feel that the 2-seater S30 has some of the best lines ever penned, and the 2+2 just doesn't quite hit the mark in the styling department. (Not to say that there are some really nice 2+2s out there....just be sure of what you're getting before you buy it.) I would seriously consider the expense and effort of purchasi
  13. You are correct in that JTR (and others) recommend a 15K ohm resistor in the blue line between the original ignition box to the tach (and I have done that on some previous swaps with acceptable results). HOWEVER.....IIRC, in my last SBC swap I just ran the line directly from the HEI to the tach (original gauge) and it worked fine...no additional resistance needed in the feed wire. I did have to calibrate the tach, using the small calibration screw on the back of the gauge. No bouncing needle, reads accurately and easy-peasey. This was on an early-version 260. Hope th
  14. NOS may be hard to find, but I'm sure you'll be able to find a good used set. I would check on ClassicZcars.com -- that bunch is very good about saving/preserving original-style parts. I did a quick Google search and saw these on eBay; it's more than you need, but a pretty good price for all those parts if they truly are in good condition: https://www.ebay.com/itm/70S-DATSUN-240Z-280REAR-BRAKE-BACKING-PLATES-LEFT-RIGHT-NICE-OEM-BRAKE-PARTS-/223428019573
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