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jhm

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jhm last won the day on December 11 2020

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About jhm

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Hampton, VA

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  1. Lately, seems everything sells quickly on FB, unless it gets snatched up first by someone here on HBZ. 😜 There are several FB pages for S30 enthusiasts; happy to share which pages I like, if you're interested. As indicated by the others, that's a very desirable diff and should easily sell for a nice chunk of change. (The finned rear cover is the icing on the cake.). Are you sure you don't want to keep it for yourself?
  2. Since you already have Edelbrock heads and intake manifold, I would call Edelbrock and ask for their suggestion(s). They have excellent tech support, and offer a wide range of cams to fit your specific setup and intended usage.
  3. Yes, the short strut isolator can be used on both the front and rear strut assemblies. You can see the difference between the short and tall versions on the MSA page here: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20n01a
  4. Yep, that looks good. I've seen many instances where the front sits higher than the rear after spring installation; which was understandably frustrating for the owners. And yes, the springs do tend to "settle" a bit over time. Another trick you can use to lower the rear is to replace the tall stock rear strut isolators with the short isolators (used on earlier-year models in the rear, and on the front of all years.) This will typically gain you an additional inch of lowering in the rear. I wouldn't try this until you've given the Eibachs a little time to settle and reach thei
  5. I'm confused. Have you installed the front strut assemblies yet, with the car sitting (weighted) on the suspension? If not, that should be your next step. You'll want to do this to visually inspect how much bump and droop travel you have with the new springs installed. Those rubber bellows may make it a little tricky to do, but this is a necessary step to ensure that you received the correct springs, and how the suspension is functioning with the new springs installed. Nearly all "lowering" springs are quite a bit shorter than the stock springs, and will sit in the strut assemb
  6. Yes, it certainly sounds like a timing issue -- either ignition timing, or cam timing, or some combination of both. It seems as though the issue first started occurring shortly after you made some repairs to the distributor wiring...is that correct? If so, that gives you some sort of starting point for your diagnosis. As NewZed suggested, things may be bent or broken internally. You can do a lot of inspection without running the engine. Remove the spark plugs and valve covers, and start turning the engine over by hand (a large breaker bar on the harmonic balancer nut gives you
  7. Aydin, is that the top nut that came with the Konis? I've had several instances with different camber plates that required me to use/find/custom fabricate a different top nut to accommodate the tight dimensions within the camber plate. And I've almost always had to use an impact gun to tighten the top nut, as suggested by @calZ. Also, I replaced the allen bolts with standard hex bolts on my GC camber plates....just seems easier for me when working on them, and the hex bolt head will actually have a slightly larger surface area than the allen bolts heads. Still follow the recomme
  8. Tom, a couple of alternatives to using the fill nut, provided for your consideration: 1) Remove one side axle and fill the diff through the side. 2) Remove the breather on top of diff and fill through the breather hole. These two methods don't give you the ability of checking fill level via the fill hole; so you will need to verify fill level some other way (e.g. visual inspection from top or side...a small borescope camera can be very handy for these types of tasks.) Regarding application of heat...should be fine if you just keep the heat on the plug itself (
  9. I've tried using the boots with a couple different brands of shocks, and they never seemed to stay in place correctly (even with zip ties, etc) or they caught up in the springs and got torn up. Gave up on them a while back, and haven't observed any ill effects in last several years. If you're using certain models of Bilsteins (I think both the -30 and -36), it's important to retain the "wiper seal" that's provided with the gland nuts.
  10. To be honest, if the gland nut is your primary concern, I personally have never had a problem removing dozens of gland nuts over the years. Maybe I’ve just been lucky. Are your gland nuts square or round at the top? There are a couple different shapes and sizes. For the square ones, I use a big pipe wrench...plenty of gripping power on the nut and plenty of leverage with a long handle. For the round nuts, the pipe wrench may work as well, but I fabbed myself a custom spanner wrench years ago. It’ll be easier to remove the gland nuts if you leave the strut tube bolted to the LC
  11. Yes, they move the spindle further outboard, resulting in wider track width and more neg camber. And yes, you should be able to dial "out" the neg camber if you have the right camber plates (the DP Racing plates might allow you to use them in a positive camber fashion. I have the older style NCRAs, which may not even be available anymore. These new adjustable units look pretty nice. Simliar effects (minus the bump steer adjustment) can be achieved with adjustable front LCAs; but you will still have to deal with the increased neg camber. Hope this helps.
  12. Wheel adapter spacers can definitely be used safely; but keep in mind that they add a fair amount of stress on the wheel bearings. Have you considered the T3 bump steer spacers that push the front spindles outboard approx 1"? I've been using them for years and really like them.
  13. Yep, can't disagree with anything that anyone has said here....and I really should have stated that spacers CAN have an effect (vs "will" have an effect). I was also careful to say "effective" spring rate. @calZ picked up on that. It's the same effect one achieves by using an adjustable sway bar...moving the mounting points can change the effective rate of the bar. And my apologies to the OP for taking this discussion even further off-topic.
  14. Also, keep in mind what effect wheel adapters/spacers will have on your effective spring rate.
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