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jhm

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jhm last won the day on December 31 2017

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About jhm

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  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Hampton, VA

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  1. FYI -- this is a forum for Datsuns and Nissans. You will probably have better luck posting your question on a Cadillac or GM forum.
  2. Yes, those pictures explain a lot. I don't think Edan will be able to offer much help, given that your entire front end is custom. It may be possible to bend the sway bar, as JMort described; but I suspect it may be harder to bend wider than it would be to bend it narrower (especially with a thick bar, as yours appears to be). Custom end links might also be a practical solution. Universal sway bars can be had for pretty cheap, so maybe just look for a wider bar, and possibly one that will be adjustable to boot? It does not appear that you will be able to adjust those Silvermine LCAs any longer without significantly changing some other aspect of your suspension (e.g. LCA mounting points, sway bar mounting, the sway bar itself, etc.) And as Silverado pointed out, do you really need more neg camber (or track width)?? Good luck with it -- should be quite a nice track car once you get it all sorted!
  3. MSA Auto is also a possible option: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10e07/12-4250
  4. Dave has closed up shop and moved on to other life pursuits. Someone may have one of his kits that they never installed and may be willing to sell to you... https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/
  5. MSA carries those same end links as well (slightly better price, too). https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20g/23-4115
  6. That doesn't look like the stock crossmember. Has it already been modified or replaced with a different unit? If so, that could certainly be causing you problems (if the LCA mounting points are different than stock).
  7. Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"? If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings. Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be? Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.
  8. jhm

    Starter wires

    The fact that it's a '71 kind of works in your favor....electricals in the early cars was a whole lot simpler than for the later years. If you have a buddy who's comfortable working with auto electrical systems, may be worth asking for his or her help with this. Buy yourself a good multimeter and test lamp....you're going to need it if you decide to fix things yourself. The "Engine Electrical" chapter in your FSM will define the correct wiring for starter motor, etc. The "Body Electrical" chapter will help you figure out the wiring for gauges....there is a separate harness for the dashboard ("Instrument Harness") that may be buggered up; or it could a simple matter of poor connections at the connector block. If you're blowing fuses the instant you connect the battery, stop. There are shorts somewhere in the system and you need to isolate those and rectify them before they cause a fire. Poor grounds are very often responsible for electrical malfunctions in these old cars. People will often find that an accessory is not working simply because the ground had corroded and just needed cleaning up. Good luck with it.
  9. jhm

    Starter wires

    You're the only person that can make the decision whether to install a new harness or fix what you've got. It will depend on how bad the current harness is, how much time and effort you're willing to put into it, how much you want to spend on it, how long are you planning to keep the car, what other mods are you planning for the car, what is the desired outcome, etc, etc. My previous car was also an SBC conversion, that had been badly screwed up by multiple previous owners. I chose to fix it. It took a lot of time, but I know the electrical system inside and out when I finished. On my next car, I did a complete rewire because I knew that I would do it right, and I had already stripped the car down to a bare shell....so that was an easy decision.
  10. Two solutions that I'm aware of.... 1) Get Futofab's Sti conversion stub axles: https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=173:r180-sti-stub-axles&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122 2) Get a set of R160 side axles for a 510 and machine a groove in them for the clip (assuming that your VLSD R160 already has the circlips internally).
  11. jhm

    Starter wires

    What year and model is the car? And do you have the FSM for it? If not, you can download free FSMs at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/ If those two leads are for an indicator lamp, and they are still functional, you should be able to test them with a multimeter. The black would show ground, and the red would show voltage in a specific situation (e.g. when the car is in Reverse, or Park, etc).
  12. jhm

    Starter wires

    Those don't appear to be OEM wiring (i.e. some previous owner put those in aftermarket); so you're really just going to have to trace them yourself and decide how to deal with it. If they were done correctly, the black should be a ground and the red would be a hot lead. Perhaps they are there for an accessory of some sort? Any OEM wiring for the starter should not be anywhere near the shifter, unless the car was originally an automatic perhaps?
  13. jhm

    RB into subaru??

    This is a forum for Datsun and Nissan Z cars. You would probably be better off posting your question in a Subaru forum.
  14. I believe Hung Vu and/or Minh Vu are selling nice new repro dashes in both fg and cf; they advertise on several of the S30 pages on FB. Minh is also here at HybridZ....username @grretc.
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