Jump to content
HybridZ

jhm

Donating Members
  • Content Count

    1104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12
  • Feedback

    0%

jhm last won the day on December 11 2020

jhm had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

128 Excellent

2 Followers

About jhm

  • Rank
    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/12/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampton, VA

Recent Profile Visitors

11306 profile views
  1. @AydinZ71, great idea....but you may just want to add to the existing thread, same topic.
  2. To throw another monkey into the mix....I've heard nothing but positive feedback about Intrax, but really haven't seen any direct reports of first-hand use on an S30 in a race application. Anyone able to weigh in on this, since we're exploring different options? (I must admit, I'm very much enjoying this discussion and wide range of ideas and options.) https://www.intraxracing.nl/en/products/shockabsorbers/nissan/432-fairlady+z%2c+s30%2c+datsun+240z%2c+260z%2c+280z%2c#partfinder
  3. Oh yeah....forgot to mention....stay away from "this guy" on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Showcars-G-Nose-Conversion-that-fits-a-1970-1978-Nissan-Datsun-240z-260z-280z/113733726948 Dozens of first-hand reports of people getting screwed by him (e.g. never getting their parts, getting their parts but really shoddy construction, etc, etc).
  4. @grannyknot is correct....you only want the prop valve affecting the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. I can't think of any situation where you would want a prop valve on the front brakes, and it's highly discouraged to do so. Your MC should have a big "F" and a big "R" on each reservoir to indicate which is which. An unless you have an early Series 1, all MCs should feed the front brakes from the rear reservoir (on OEM, it's bigger to feed the disc calipers; vs the smaller reservoir needed for the rear drum cylinders.) Yes, you can run the line from the "F" outl
  5. I'm not familiar with that particular prop valve, Aydin; but new ones can be had very readily and cheaply (30 or 40 bucks for a Wilwood). There are a few choices you'll want to decide early on: do you want to install it in the engine bay (for simplicity) or in the cabin, to give you the ability to adjust whilst driving? And if the latter, do you want adjustment with knob-style or lever-style? I think most folks opt for lever style, as it's easier to use when your concentration is focused elsewhere (like the 95 mph esses you're approaching!) If you are incorporating an aftermark
  6. There are certainly plenty of options out there....but many of them will be over your budget of $1000. MSA Auto offers several kits under your budget (and even a carbon fiber option right at you budget): https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01a For high quality, really cool, body parts; ZTrix is hard to beat: https://www.ztrix.com/ I've also heard nothing but good reports on rhdjapan for high quality flares and body parts at pretty reasonable prices: https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairla
  7. Agree with everything the others have said, and I'd like to stress the point made by @G-Tech....you will have much better luck finding aftermarket OEM and performance parts for the S30.
  8. There's actually a few good selections in your desired 245/45-16, in a variety of tread patterns and tire compounds: Yokos, Toyo, Hoosier, Pirelli...any of these meet your needs? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=245%2F&ratio=45&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All
  9. If you're planning to do any auto-x or track, I'd suggest "square" size your wheels and tires (i.e. same size on all 4 corners)...this will allow you to rotate all four evenly.
  10. I agree....looks like it's coming along really nicely!! Keep those updates coming!
  11. Has everyone experienced a whole new look for our webpage? Or is it something I'm experiencing because of my choice of web browser, etc?? I've seen this happen before when a forum changes hosts or hosting software. Can't say I'm a huge fan of this new look....but maybe it will grow on me over time. If anyone knows of a way to revert to the "classic" look, I'd love to hear from you.
  12. Yep, you can replace those studs with shorter ones, or shorten your existing studs to the correct length (assuming that there is sufficient threaded length on those studs to do that.) I've also seen people replace the threaded studs with bolts, but that can make it a little trickier to install the diff. Your choice.
  13. There are multiple pinion flanges for the R200; and IIRC, not all of them have the same diameter shaft. I believe yours (large round flange) may be one of those with a thicker shaft. You should be able to get the correct pinion flange pretty easily....seems like there's a lot of them floating around (but you will probably have to change the flange on your driveshaft.)
  14. Glad to hear that it's improving. I forgot to ask if the doors are closing securely, with the new weatherstripping installed. Sometimes the door latches will need to be adjusted (either tighter or looser) to get a nice tight seal after making any changes to the weatherstripping. Adjusting the latches is a simple process....just takes a little patience, and playing with it little by little to get 'just' the right tension on the weatherstripping when the door is closed and latched.
  15. I watched your video and I have to apologize, but I really couldn't see the problem area that you're describing. Sorry. Maybe post another video with some narration, and physically point (with your finger) to the area that's not sealing? If the rubber is cold, try heating it (to soften it) and then "coax" it into the shape necessary for a good seal. New rubber has to "learn" the desired shape, and that sometimes takes a little time. Also, IIRC, you can loosen the mounting bolts for the chrome frame to slightly adjust it in/out/up/down. I seem to recall having to do this with s
×
×
  • Create New...