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jhm

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jhm last won the day on December 11 2020

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About jhm

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  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Hampton, VA

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  1. You are correct in that JTR (and others) recommend a 15K ohm resistor in the blue line between the original ignition box to the tach (and I have done that on some previous swaps with acceptable results). HOWEVER.....IIRC, in my last SBC swap I just ran the line directly from the HEI to the tach (original gauge) and it worked fine...no additional resistance needed in the feed wire. I did have to calibrate the tach, using the small calibration screw on the back of the gauge. No bouncing needle, reads accurately and easy-peasey. This was on an early-version 260. Hope th
  2. NOS may be hard to find, but I'm sure you'll be able to find a good used set. I would check on ClassicZcars.com -- that bunch is very good about saving/preserving original-style parts. I did a quick Google search and saw these on eBay; it's more than you need, but a pretty good price for all those parts if they truly are in good condition: https://www.ebay.com/itm/70S-DATSUN-240Z-280REAR-BRAKE-BACKING-PLATES-LEFT-RIGHT-NICE-OEM-BRAKE-PARTS-/223428019573
  3. Ditto what @calZ said. And depending on which camber plates you select, you will likely have to fabricate some small piece-parts (bushings, spacers, bearings, etc) to make it work with the stock top spring hats (assuming that you're retaining the stock springs or lowering springs of the same OD as stock, like Tokico, Vogtland, or Eibach). It's essential to retain some sort of bearing in the system because of the fact that the front suspension is constantly rotating, via steering action....the OEM thrust bearing provides this function in the stock setup. You may have heard that yo
  4. If you're on any of the S30 pages on FB, I would post there as well. Seems like stuff sells pretty quick there, and you have a very desirable item for sale. GLWS.
  5. I replaced my windshield last year using the windshield seal from Vintage Rubber. I wanted the style seal that omits the metal trim, and Vintage Rubber was the only vendor I could find that offered this style (they call this version the "Cal Style"). I have nothing but good comments about them overall: they responded to my email questions quickly; shipped quickly; and I was impressed with the quality of materials and fitment of the seal itself. Installed it "dry" (i.e. no glue or liquid sealant of any kind) using the "rope" method and it's been leak-free since Day 1. No deformities in the
  6. I think you’ll find that a lot of people will fill that seam for a “cleaner” look....I did it on my last Z (late-version 260). Can’t really think of a major down-side to welding it — although it does make it a bit more unwieldy when installing and removing the assembly as a single panel. The small mounting studs on the sugar scoops often rust and break off anyway.
  7. I'm with @AydinZ71 on this one....I'd rather adjust (or even dimple) the exhaust tubing vs grinding into your diff case. Regarding sources for the mustache bar bushes, I think I used ST last time I did this....no issues with them. I don't know if the rubber OEM-style bushes are still available, but vendors like MSA Auto, Z Car Source, and Z Car Depot would be good place to start. Also, just saw a post on FB about Bill's Datsun Shoppe in OR is having a going-out-of-business sale on a 30-year inventory of OEM and aftermarket Datsun parts....may get lucky by contacting them at(503)
  8. Looks like you've got everything installed correctly. And yes, most aftermarket wheels will have more of a "dish" shape (radially outwards from the hub mounting face) which would allow for more clearance with the brake calipers. But even then, a wheel spacer, between the hub and the wheel, might be needed to provide sufficient clearance. You could probably make your 15" ZX wheels work with spacers, although you may need a wheel "spacer adapter" to get sufficient clearance....spacer adapters have their own lugs, and are a safer alternative to plain spacers if you need more than 1/4" thicknes
  9. Yes, that's definitely an R200....distinctive in its large pumpkin-shape in the rear, offset to one side. Also has a much larger offset from the mustache bar due to the shape of the diff cover. If it includes the mustache bar and half-shafts, I would be sure to grab those as suggested by @NewZed -- you can always sell them separately if you already have. Only other item to consider is the pinion flange -- it may need to be swapped to be compatible with your current driveshaft.
  10. jhm

    Gauger wiring

    The FSM includes both "cartoons" of how the gauges install in the dash harness; but also full schematics which will show you how to integrate the S30 gauges into your Z31. You will have to look at the FSMs for the 240 and the 280 separately (since your gauges are from two different model years); but you can download free FSMs for all years at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Hope this helps.
  11. If you want to see what other folks are running, I'd check out the "Swapped S30 Owners Group" on FB. That's where I've seen all the craziest builds imaginable. As Aydin suggested, a Ford 8.8 would probably hold up well. Whatever differential you decide to go with, you will need to do something about the stock stub axles....these are the outboard stub axles that reside in the lower rear strut assemblies. Time and time again, the stub axles have shown to be the weakest link in the stock driveline. Please be sure to post some follow-up, because I'm sure we'd all be interested t
  12. FWIW, I've been using generic stainless v-band clamps for many years without any issues. The flanges are typically non-grooved, but I always weld them to the exhaust tubing so as to incorporate a small lip between the two ends. Initially had a problem with leaks on some of the clamps, so now I use Permatex ultra-copper high-temp RTV on the joint EVERY time I bolt them together. (You can also use it on the threads, like Loctite, if you're having any issues with the nut loosening during usage.)
  13. Hey Aydin, good questions all... Regarding bump steer spacers: I've been using the T3 NCRAs for several years without any issues. I like the fact that they include both thickness and offset, which gives a wider front track. They also help solve some interference issue between the wheels (rims) and adjustable tie rod ends, if you're using adjustables (especially with 15" wheels, although the interference may not be such an issue with 7" rim width). I bought the T3 adjustable tie rod ends when they were only available with straight (non-tapered) rod ends....and I have to say that
  14. @AydinZ71, it's not extremely clear, but I think the gist of the original thread was driveshaft length when installing a short-nose R200. Yours is a long-nose R200, IINM? Interesting thread on Ratsun.net on this very topic (the tech info came from Jon Mort and John Coffey): https://ratsun.net/topic/66537-pros-and-cons-of-r200-37-diff/?_fromLogin=1
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