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jhm last won the day on November 5 2021

jhm had the most liked content!

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About jhm

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Hampton, VA

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  1. Howdy Adam, and welcome to HBZ! Nice find there....good luck with your planned projects for it. ClassicZCar.com is another good resource, as suggested by @Mayolives. Also some good reading and tech tips here: https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ If you don't have a Factory Service Manual yet, you can download for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html WRT the driver's door....I would first try removing the small finishing piece on the interior handle (should be a a pop-off/on plastic piece, followed by a metal trim piece held in place by a single philli
  2. Nice work, Aydin...impressive as always. This is one of the reasons that I’ve shied away from composite body panels.
  3. I bought a 32' coil of cunifer brake line and ended up with a BUNCH left over. 25' should be more than enough for you. Ditto for the fuel line. Have been using cunifer tubing for several years now and have nothing but good things to say about it -- I think you'll like working with it. Good luck!
  4. I often weld my rivnuts, as well. For this reason, I am usually using zinc-plated steel nuts. It only takes a small tack or two to firmly secure the rivnut in place. (For the rear flares, the tack weld is on the outside surface.). The current set of flare rivnuts have been in place for four years without any signs of loosening or corrosion. Hope this helps.
  5. Just an FYI, depending on how big a patch panel you intend to use...the early year doors have the hole for the door lock knob in a different location than the later year cars. Not a big deal; nothing that can’t be worked around. Just wanted to let you know so you aren’t surprised.
  6. As an FYI...if you don’t get the info you need here; you might try posting your question on ClassicZcar.com. As a community, they are very much into original-type restorations. Good luck with it — I applaud your commitment to originality!
  7. Sorry to hear that this nagging issue hasn't come to resolution for you. It sounds like you have isolated it to the differential, and have tried everything I would suggest to fix the issue. Maybe the additional sound deadening in the hatch will help. Just curious....have you driven in other S30s for comparison sake? I don't know if you're new to these cars or not; but nothing is quiet about them. Most of my Zs have sounded like they're falling apart and dropping pieces all over the road. You can't compare them in any way shape or form to a modern civilized-riding automobile.
  8. Hey all, I've got a pair of the rotor spacers you need when doing the Toyota caliper upgrade to the front brakes. These are from Silvermine Motors; and have never been run on -- only installed once for mock-up purposes only. These are the spacers for "280Z hubs" (which also includes most 260Zs); the 240Z hubs were different thickness and therefore require different thickness spacers for the caliper swap. Please ensure which front hubs you have before purchasing! Full description can be found at: https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/brake-kit-individual-parts/spac
  9. If you’re intent on switching to CVs, that’s a pretty nice price for a bolt-in solution. They look an awful lot like the units that Fritz McKellar used to produce at Datsun Restomods; but sadly has discontinued his production line. I had always planned to buy a set from him when my half-shafts decided to crap out on me...but I’m still waiting for that day, even after multiple years of hard track use. Before purchasing, I would check with ZCarDepot to enquire if they have a recommended HP/torque limit on these axles, to ensure suitability with your setup and intended usage.
  10. I agree with @rturbo 930.....if you plan to upgrade the front brakes, I'd go with something other than the Toyota calipers. Those things weigh a ton and it's all unsprung weight. There are numerous options/kits out there that incorporate aluminum calipers and vented rotors. Also, if you ARE upgrading the front brakes, why would you want to keep solid front rotors? Those are actually the biggest achilles heel of the OEM system, as they are prone to overheating when subjected to sustained, intensive use. Since you've already swapped the rears for discs, I'm assuming that you've also gone wi
  11. Hey Aydin, I'd be interested to see your airbox if you don't mind posting some pics at your next update. Tried downloading the movie clip you included, but my laptop didn't like it (possibly because it's an ancient POS, and I'm too cheap to buy a new one.) You might be able to use V-band clamps on the header if you stagger them on the two pipes (i.e. one slightly fore or aft of the other)? Just a thought for your consideration.
  12. Good tips from @NewZed on the rear brakes. Most of the OTS drum brake shoes from parts stores are so-so at best. Fortunately, Porterfield produces a nice shoe that fits our rear drum brakes....you can check them out here: https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/Products/?YearSelected=1972&ModelSelected=240Z&MakeSelected=NISSAN&selectManufacturer=Porterfield Brakes
  13. When you say "very firm peddle"....I'm wondering if you are getting power assist from the brake booster. Why do you say the "booster seems good" -- have you actually tested it, or had someone else test it? It's not uncommon for the check valve to either be installed backwards or to malfunction. Either condition will result in little/no assist from the booster, so I'd start by checking that first. Also, as @NewZed suggested...harder compound pads won't function properly until they get some heat into them. It is for this exact reason that I will often run organic, or s
  14. I would check with Jamie at River City Speed....he works on everything, from mild to wild. He's currently building a turbo LS, tube chassis S30 for his own personal use. He has done work for many members here, including some of our SysAdmins. https://www.facebook.com/Rivercityspeed
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