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Everything posted by jhm

  1. I've got something along the lines of what you're thinking. Pre-built speaker cabinet that tucks easily into the rear hatch area. (Can leave the stock speaker cones in, or upgrade to higher quality if desired.) Installed a $40 multimedia car stereo unit directly into the speaker box, and wired it into the speakers....you can get an amazing amount of capability very cheaply these days. Typically run it off my phone via Bluetooth or audio cable. A 2-lead power connector (pos and neg) plugs into the cabinet and powers the unit; this line is powered via a switched electrical relay. Easy to unplug; easy to take in and out of the car. Hope this helps.
  2. I've run starters and alternators from these guys, and have been extremely happy with the quality, price and customer service: https://www.dbelectrical.com/
  3. I think you'll probably be fine with that setup. If you'd like to upgrade diff to LSD, an STi R180 is an easy bolt-in. Good info here on the various Subaru LSDs: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453
  4. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a single definitive way to answer that. It all depends on a variety of factors....how you plan to use the car, what transmission you're using, what tire/wheel combo you're running, condition of your current internal hardware, etc. Auto trans are usually kinder to the drivetrain than manual trans. Lighter cars can have less drivetrain failures than heavier cars. Big tires can impart more abuse on drivetrain components than small tires. (IINM, open diffs can have more failures than LSDs; but that may not really be a good apples-to-apples comparison.) I've broken my diff carrier with a very mild SBC motor, but was running tight auto-x courses on sticky slicks. Haven't had to replace my stub axles yet, but have seen many fail with bigg'ish hp/torque and multiple hard launches on big tires. This seems to be the common theme with failed stubs. Is this primarily a race car or street car? I'd say let that factor guide your decisions, and upgrade/replace components as it becomes necessary. 300 HP (with similar torque numbers) can move your car along quite well for most applications. Beefier components are readily available; it just takes money. The R200 is a popular upgrade to the R180, and stronger stub axles are available from several vendors. Good luck with it.
  5. I agree with NewZed...if your stock driveshaft u-joints are in good shape, just leave them alone. If they eventually do need to be replaced, I'd consider Spicer u-joints. Have worked well for many folks here. Similarly, the stock half-shafts are quite stout; and can handle quite a lot of abuse. There are other components that will fail first....diff carrier gears, outer stub axles, etc.
  6. If that's your main concern, the rear strut towers are easily reinforced and braced.
  7. For future reference, you can insert some flat spacer plates between the frame rail and the sway bar mounts to increase clearance between the sway bar and the alternator. Spacer plates out of flat aluminum plate, any thickness you want. This may give you the additional clearance you need to run the 18mm bar, if you wanted to. You can also do the frame rail reinforcement modification on the sway bar mounting points, which has a secondary effect of additional spacing between the bar and the engine accessories. You can make the reinforcement pieces yourself (which is what I've done), or buy them premade from Bad Dog Parts.
  8. Sounds like the smaller/lighter 18mm bar might be plenty stiff for your needs. Are you running a rear sway bar of any sort? If you stay with using stock-sized springs, that will obviously be the main LIMDAC in tuning/balancing the car's handling. FYI for your reference: a 1" front sway bar from ST = 11.5 lb = 5.2 kg. Interesting mod....many thanks for following through on this!
  9. Yes, I know Speedhut gauges are a fine product in general; however, it sounds like even if you can manage to get the fuel gauge calibrated correctly, it only reads in increments of 1/4 tank. My stock fuel gauge reads accurately and consistently, so I'll be sticking with that for now. I very much appreciate everyone's inputs on these....always good to have first-hand feedback on a product.
  10. Interesting reading on the fuel gauge issue -- thanks to those who have posted here. I guess I know which aftermarket fuel gauge I will not be buying.
  11. I think you're suggesting shortening your rear LCAs (and half-shafts, or CV axles) in order to achieve a shorter effective rear axle length, allowing you to run wider rear wheels & rubber without changing the exterior sheetmetal. True? If so, I think there are better ways to achieve your goals. Solid narrowed rear end comes to mind, especially if you're making big power and planning to drag race the car. Give us some more info on what you're planning to do with the car, and folks can probably help more and steer you in the right direction. Your initial post doesn't really provide much info, and just has people guessing at what you're ultimately trying to do with the car.
  12. Suggest you start by reading all the FAQs -- plenty of good discussions in there on how to accomplish all the mods you are considering. You can try reshaping the rear flares, as JonMort suggested. If you do, I would consider adding a similarly-styled flare to the front....for both functionality and aesthetics. If you decide to replace, replacing the rear quarter panels is a very common repair. You can get the panels used from a donor car or new from one of the vendors that produce reproduction body panels. Good luck with it. Your car appears to be way further ahead than many project cars are at the start.
  13. Looks like you've built your own fuse and relay block inside the engine compartment....are any of those circuits switched?
  14. Ah, sorry -- did not realize that your car was equipped with air conditioning. My bad.
  15. Joost, it's been a long time since I've had the stock ventilation system; but IIRC, all air flow is controlled mechanically (i.e. via cables between the dashboard controls and the blower assembly). Those old cable systems can get gummed up and not work smoothly, the cables can break over time, or the flapper valves internal to the blower can stick or get jammed in one position. Any of those issues could be why you're not getting hot air to your windscreen defroster vents. It could also be as simple as the heat ducting hoses falling off the heater blower or the plastic defroster ducts up at the base of the windshield. Any of these problems should be easily fixable by disassembling/cleaning/repairing/adjusting/etc as necessary without any great expense. Do you have the FSM for your car? It gives a pretty good description of the cabin heating/ventilation system. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Cheers.
  16. Unless you plan on using an electric water pump, I don't think this will really achieve your intended goal. The fan will continue to run after you shut the engine off; but will really only effectively cool the fluid in the radiator vs cooling the engine. I'm surprised this setup worked on your Alfa, but I know pretty much zero about most Italian hardware. Maybe the smaller Alfa engine block and overall cooling system was small enough to be affected by the cooler fluid in the radiator. Regarding your second question, you could install switched and unswitched "hot posts" (using relays of course) to power a variety of high-draw accessories, like your electric fan, AC/heat blower fan, etc. This approach gives you a lot of flexibility in your wiring strategy, and provides max amperage directly to accessories without running through the fragile OEM switches and wiring harnesses.
  17. And there's a nifty driveline angle finder in the Tremec Toolbox app for your smartphone.
  18. Cool stuff....thanks for sharing! I love perusing old/original documentation, like those Datsun comp parts brochures.
  19. jhm

    Hi Searching

    Are these what you're looking for?
  20. After you decide what you want, here's some useful links for sourcing the correct unit: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453
  21. Wheels out of balance seems to be the obvious answer, in most cases. Other possibilities include flat spots in tires, rims that are bent, worn steering rack bushings (the mounting bushings that are used to clamp it to the front crossmember), worn steering coupler, worn out shocks.
  22. Many variables to consider.....but yes, you will likely need an adjustable proportioning valve once you have the front and rear disc brakes functioning correctly. Many to choose from, but Wilwood makes a very basic inexpensive unit that works fine.
  23. Is it possible that the calipers were accidentally installed on the wrong sides? The bleed valve should be pointing up on both, in order for them to be bled. If the bleed valve is not at the highest point, you can end up with trapped air inside the calipers. All that aside, how well were your stock brakes functioning before installing the rear disc kit? Reason I ask is that your stock front discs have plenty of stopping power by themselves when functioning properly. In a hard-braking scenario, they provide the majority of the stopping power for the vehicle. Sooooo....even if your new rear disc brakes were not functioning correctly, you should still have plenty of overall stopping power from the stock front discs (again, as long as the fronts are operating properly). Yet your post seems to indicate that the car has very weak overall stopping power ("car not fully stopping"). Is it possible that you have issues elsewhere in the braking system? A weak brake booster could cause weak stopping power. A MC with internal leaks could cause weak stopping power. Etc, etc. Need some more info on the health and configuration of your overall brake system.
  24. Sorry, I didn't watch your video earlier; but just watched it now. Looks like you have a Voltmeter, vs an Ammeter (i.e. "Amp Gauge")....is that correct? Two different gauges that measure two different metrics. Typically, a voltmeter will react much less to changes in system amperage draw than an ammeter. From your video, I'm guessing that the engine was NOT running when you filmed the video? Is that correct? If so, I would try the same test again but with the engine running (and the alternator charging). You should see much smaller (and possibly none) fluctuations in the voltmeter reading, because the alternator/voltage regulator will keep things more stable in your electrical system. And obviously, the voltmeter should be reading somewhere in the 13-14 V range with the engine running. If not, there's a problem with the battery charging subsystem. Hope this makes sense. If not, feel free to ask more questions.
  25. Yes, completely normal. Any change in system draw will cause the Ammeter needle to move around.
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