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jhm

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Everything posted by jhm

  1. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26561-honda-wiper-motor-upgrade-for-the-240z/
  2. Another thing to consider....solid diff mounts will transmit WAY more noise to the shell than non-solid mounts. Before deciding that your diff needs internal work, may want to determine if it's just the solid mounts that are causing the noisy running condition. If you decide that you do want to tear into the R200, there's nothing magic about it....but you will need a dial indicator to measure backlash.
  3. Unless you have your heart set on a solid rear end, there's actually a few options for Ford IRS rear end conversions. ZCarDepot makes a kit; there's a guy here building a kit (InvincibleExtremes), and Apex Engineering is planning to release a kit in the near future. If you're definitely set on a 4 link setup, you should check out some of the builds on FB "Swapped S30 Owners Group".
  4. I personally have not done that but have considered something like this previously. I'm assuming that you are talking about a full dash cap, correct (vs a half cap)? Would def be interested to see your results. Incidentally, there's a guy on the S30 Facebook pages who is 3D printing adapters for anyone that needs them when switching to aftermarket gauges. I can find his name if you need it.
  5. Is that a question or a recommendation? Glad you got your issue resolved, if that's all it was. As an FYI....the SBC can come with two different size flexplates, and they typically require different starter motor mounting configurations. That may have been part of the issue with your ebay starter.
  6. Here you go: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128951-fs-z31t-axle-adapter-flanges-for-s30-r200-slim-design/ He also advertises on the FB pages under "Mark Nickel".
  7. Also, Google search usually works better than the website's Search function. Be sure to include "HybridZ" in your Google search string.
  8. Silly question, but do you have the FSM for your car? Voltmeter wiring can be found on page 35 of the attached. Body Electrical.pdf
  9. Just to be clear....are you saying that the gauge is not reading at all, and the charge light is not working either? For starters, the gauge can be connected to any hot lead (and ground) in your electrical system, and it should read just fine. You can verify this with a standalone multimeter. And then once the gauge is reading correctly, the charging bulb is pretty much irrelevant IMHO. Sorry if I'm misunderstanding the issue and didn't address your problem.
  10. jhm

    S30 Whale Tail

    Still available.
  11. Just FYI....that JDM ad now reads "No intl shipping". Was that there when you first looked at that kit? (For that price tag, they should be willing to ship to the moon.)
  12. Hello all, got what I needed.....many thanks to the generosity of 72240Z. Thanks also to the others that replied. Admins, thread can be closed or deleted if so desired.
  13. Here is the schematic, if anyone wants it....illustrates functionality in each of the key's positions:
  14. Much appreciated -- no rush at all!
  15. IIRC, stock spring rates were in the range of 100-140 lb/in? At the risk of gross generalization, most "lowering springs" are in the range of 180-200. If you're wanting stiffer spring rates, most people go with adjustable coilovers. Hope this helps.
  16. The end link bushing retaining caps from Energy Suspension are flatter than the ones you're using, and may give you the additional clearance you need between the cap and the LCA.
  17. Your question is really so open-ended, it's pretty hard to give an answer that means anything. What are you replacing the stock components with? (The gist of your question implies engine/trans swaps, etc). Also, sounds like you're planning to have a shop do all the work for you...that alone will triple or quadruple the total cost of the project. As seattlejester suggested, you can start your research by reading as many of the "build threads" that other members have posted.....that may give you an idea of the magnitude of work that's required for a full & complete build/restoration. You will also want to make some firm decisions about your goals for the car before you spend a single dollar on it.
  18. Looking for a black plastic rear strut tower cap, as pictured. I only need one, but willing to buy both if the seller is wanting to sell as a pair. Yes, I know there are some available on eBay and new from multiple vendors; but I'd rather give my business to a fellow HybridZ'er if possible. Thanks all.
  19. Many people using an RT-style diff mount have eliminated the lower front differential crossmember....it's bulky, heavy, and often interferes with a larger exhaust system. If you are wanting to eliminate yours, but are worried about negatively impacting structural integrity (between the left and right LCA mounting points), you can fabricate your own crossbrace from suitably-sized flat bar or angel steel. Not as pretty as the T3 unit (like Jon mentioned), but $140 cheaper.
  20. Check this one out: http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/images/Dimensions/214L.GIF.
  21. Glad it worked out. Headlight covers have been in very short supply for the last year or more, so it's fortunate that Altec is keeping the production line open.
  22. You probably already realize this, but we're talking metal zip ties (like the kind that are used on CV axle rubber boots). Plastic zip ties will typically fail in very short order.
  23. If you're ok with buying new, many folks have bought directly from Altec recently. They produce them, and seem to be the only vendor that has them in stock: http://altecproducts.com/datsun-z-and-zx/?fbclid=IwAR0fs_SVuRb1jNR9nD4i0xi97PPDUVg6RM4xRW_29Foir3Cz-GvAjx69kuM
  24. wingwalker, do you have the option of doing a low-mount alternator (on the driver side)? That's what I did with mine, and I have roughly 1" clearance between the alt and the frame rail and no interference issues with the steering rack. (However, the JTR mounting location might make a low-mount difficult?)
  25. Bigger does not necessarily equate to more traction. A smaller high-performance tire can easily give better traction than a larger cheap tire. If you're absolutely dead set on stuffing the largest possible wheel/tire combo under your fenders, you may want to invest in a wheel mock-up tool (or make one yourself).
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