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@matthewabate, here's a couple threads that should help you ID which diff you have. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105868-subaru-diff-clarification/ You can determine your diff type on inspection; and I suspect that @AydinZ71 is correct in his last line supposition. Hope this helps.

@Boondocker, you are aware that this thread is 15 years old, correct? The OP hasn't been on the forum in a very long time; however, did you read their post on Feb 2, 2008? It pretty much answers your question regarding fitment: "The clearance between the distributor and the intake is the issue. The bolt hole nearest the distributor had to be machined off and a new smaller diameter ear welded on that would use an allen head bolt. Not sure about shaft length issues on the distributor but I know the gear is the metric one from the original distributor."

It's obviously really hard to diagnose a random noise from a video; but you may be on to something regarding the headers. An exhaust leak from the headers can sound a LOT like valvetrain noise. When you try retightening the header bolts, go from inside bolts to outside bolts, and do it in steps so you're gradually clamping the header to the head evenly across the surface. If that doesn't work; remove and inspect the header gasket. If it's leaking, you may see some telltale signs of the leak(s) on the gasket material itself. Don't assume that the engine builder used the correct gasket for those headers...I've seen plenty of people install the wrong gasket for their particular head & header combination. If the gasket is correct, and a quality gasket, you can try using some copper hi-temp RTV on the sealing surfaces to help battle any leaks. Hope this helps -- good luck with it.

Wow...that's a lot to go through at any age, Clark. Sorry to hear that; but very glad that you're feeling better now and on the mend. Question on the dampers: it appears that Redshift integrates the BC strut housing (and associated spring perch HW) with their own proprietary shocks. Is that correct? I wasn't aware that was an available option, but it really does sound like a great solution. Which springs (and spring rates) did you go with? According to their website, it appears that Swift is the preferred option, which I would wholeheartedly agree with. In my limited experience with BC hardware, they typically use a 62.5 mm spring ID. Is that the case for the ones Redshift built for you?

There is a possibility that there will be another run of HybridZ apparel/merchandise in order to raise funds to help defray operating expenses for the forum. No details as of now; but stay tuned. Likely only going down this path if there's sufficient interest to warrant the time & effort.

Aydin, you are correct that Fritz McKellar produced these a couple years ago; but I think he got out of it due to insufficient market interest. (He's mainly a 510 guy, IIRC.) It appears that ZCarDepot sells something similar, but only as a bolt-in replacement for the stock half-shafts. Pretty decent price, though, for bolt-in CV axles. https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/cv-rear-axle-replacment-240z-260z-280z To the OP....sorry, can't directly answer your question regarding first-hand experience with the FutoFab or Silvermine units. My other experiences with those two vendors is that both are good; but would have to say that the FutoFab hardware is a notch above most other vendors for S30 aftermarket parts & pieces. FWIW, I can also tell you that my stock half-shafts and stub axles have held up fine to LOTS of track and auto-x at 300 WHP and slicks.

Yes, similar here....in order to post in the Classified Ads, one must be a Donating Member. Thank you for your donation, and to the others that have donated!

And if you don't have the FSM for your car, you can download them free for all years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Possibly. Worth a look.

Hey all- We still have a robust and active membership here at HybridZ; but unfortunately, donations have really dropped off the last 4-5 years. We do derive some level of revenue from ads; but that typically falls well short of actual operating costs for the website (web hosting fees, software license fees, etc, etc.) Was chatting with @SuperDan recently, and he estimated that our annual expenses exceed advertisement income by $1300-1600 every year! Soooo, we are asking that folks consider making a donation to keep the forum up and running. We've had some issues with the "Donation" function recently, but it should be resolved now and working correctly. Anyone wishing to make a Donation and running into any issues whatsoever, please don't hesitate to post here (or PM me directly) and I will ensure your issue gets resolved. For your ease of reference, here's the link to the "Donation" button: https://forums.hybridz.org/clients/donations/ I will probably post this announcement in a couple of different locations on the Forum to ensure maximum visibility. Thanks for your time, and Happy Motoring. Vr John

Hey all- We still have a robust and active membership here at HybridZ; but unfortunately, donations have really dropped off the last 4-5 years. We do derive some level of revenue from ads; but that typically falls well short of actual operating costs for the website (web hosting fees, software license fees, etc, etc.) Was chatting with @SuperDan recently, and he estimated that our annual expenses exceed advertisement income by $1300-1600 every year! Soooo, we are asking that folks consider making a donation to keep the forum up and running. We've had some issues with the "Donation" function recently, but it should be resolved now and working correctly. Anyone wishing to make a Donation and running into any issues whatsoever, please don't hesitate to post here (or PM me directly) and I will ensure your issue gets resolved. For your ease of reference, here's the link to the "Donation" button: https://forums.hybridz.org/clients/donations/ I will probably post this announcement in a couple of different locations on the Forum to ensure maximum visibility. Thanks for your time, and Happy Motoring. Vr John

I was going to suggest that you post that question in ClassicZCars; but just saw that you already did. I suspect someone there may have an answer for you. I haven't personally had a parking brake boot in a VERY long time; but seem to recall that they were just "standard" sized metal snaps. Have you checked out snap supplies at a local fabric store? I'd be surprised if they didn't have something that would work for you.

@walkerbk, very kind of you. Did anyone ever take you up on your generous offer?

No, I would definitely worry about it; and not drive it anymore until you’ve diagnosed it. Did it just start making this noise out of the blue? Or maybe after you’d done some repairs or maintenance? It almost sounds like a mechanical interference noise. Use a stethoscope around various locations on the engine to help isolate where it’s coming from.

100% agree!! I've used copper-nickel (aka "cunifer") lines on my last two cars; and will NEVER use anything else. Easier to work with; seals better; corrosion-resistant; and quite good-looking IMHO. Good luck with the rear disc install!

👍

@jhaag, go ahead and try it now....you should be able to post in the Classifieds. Sorry that you're not showing up as a "Donating Member" on your profile. There's some glitch in the S/W that's affected many members in the same way (myself included). But I adjusted your profile, which *should* fix the problem. If you're still having trouble, repost here or message me and I'll try again.

Super cool…glad you’re finally getting to enjoy it! I’ve been following your build and the car looks impressive. 👍👍

I seem to recall seeing someone 3D printing the plastic bushing…maybe on FB? I’ll dig around and see if I can locate the info.

Recognizing that this is a six year old thread....I can share my own personal experience with the Carbotech pads. I ran them on my car for 3 years and was relatively happy with them. Mostly track use, with occasional street driving. Good fade characteristics under hard use, and I don't really remember that much brake noise when street driving (but they do produce a lot of brake dust). Since your car is mostly street use with occasional track work, another good pad to consider is the Porterfield R4-S. I've had good luck with Porterfield front and rear; very predictable and great wear characteristics. AP114 is the pad size for S30s: https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap114/

Nice tip regarding this particular model wiper motor and part number...thanks for that! The car's looking great -- amazing attention to detail. 👍👍

OHHHHH NOOOOOOOOO....that sucks, Stony!! The car looks seriously hurt; but assuming that you're ok. 😥 If you're planning to build another Z, I guarantee you that your HybridZ brothers will be wanting to help with replacement parts.

To answer your original question…no, you really can’t. You didn’t state which diff you have; but assuming it’s an R180 or R200, the rear cover is an integral component of the differential mounting. Even assuming you could hold the diff in place with a jack while you try to remove the mustache bar and rear transverse link, it’s just not practical to do it that way. Do you have the FSM for your car? If not, you can download them free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Hope this helps.

Looking good, Joe. Will you be converting all the exterior lighting bulbs to LED (like you did in the dash)? I can PM you specific part numbers for each lens, if you'd like. Although there's a ton of choices out there, I think the Sylvania brand of automotive LED bulbs are some of the best available after chatting with a couple of "industry experts".

Aydin, question regarding your front sway bar drop-down mounts....did you fab your own, or buy them off-the-shelf? And how much do they drop the sway bar position vs stock mounting? Thx!