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jhm

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Everything posted by jhm

  1. If you haven't already done so, you can download the FSM for all years free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. HybridZ is my personal favorite, but there of plenty of other good forums for restoration and modification info; here's just a couple: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ And there are obviously a bunch of S30 pages on FB, if you're a social media kind of person. Looks like you've got a nice platform to start with -- good luck with it.
  2. WRT the master cylinder rebuild kit from Zcardepot....I tried it and was not impressed with the fitment of the seals. Other people may have had success with that kit, but it didn't do it for me. To be fair to Zcardepot, I don't believe they produce it -- I think it's produced by another vendor in the U.K. A new MC from Cardone ended up only costing $10 more than the seal kit, so that's the route I eventually went. Also, for car seat cover kits, and upholstery needs in general, I've seen some vendors on FB that produce really nice stuff in genuine leather. Check the S30 pages like Datsun Parts and Needs and 240z 260z 280z Lovers.
  3. I don't know what your budget is, but Hung Vu has recently started selling the old-style low-profile JDM headlight covers with metal chrome trim. They look prettt nice, but are not cheap. He advertises on most of the S30 pages on FB.
  4. Are you having particular issues with a specific gauge(s), accessory, or connector block? Or just the entire dash harness in general?
  5. Ah, didn't realize you were running adjustable TC rods.....you will want to stay away from the aluminum/delrin camber bushings. They offer no flex at all, as Jon pointed out. Consider replacing the stock rubber bushings with monoball.
  6. Don't forget the biscuit-style camber plates that EMI used to make, and DP Racing still produces. They offer quite a bit of adjustability and are a bolt-on solution that requires no cutting of the strut tower. The negative camber bump steer spacers offered by T3 are another potential solution; but like adjustable LCAs, may require the use of adjustable outer tie rod ends (depending on whatever other mods you decide to make).
  7. Description Various interior pieces for sale. All pulled from a 1973 early-model 260 or a 1974 late-model 260. Most in decent physical and operating condition. All prices listed do not include shipping -- I will use the most economical USPS flat rate shipping available. Thanks for looking. - ashtray cover and mounting bracket, two available (note the different configuration on backside): $10 each - ashtrays, two available: SOLD - glovebox door, includes the side-mounted retaining bracket and screws: $15 - cigarette lighters, two available, both in working condition: SOLD - overhead dome lamp, includes bulb, working condition: SOLD - ammeter/fuel gauge, pulled several years ago when converted to voltmeter, unknown working condition: $10 - fresh air side vents, two available, one functions nicely/the other has a broken pull tab for opening/closing vents: $10 for both - center console armrest, spring and latching mechanism in good working condition, one mounting bracket was repaired years ago: SOLD - center air handler for center vents/defroster: free with any purchase - white plastic mounting bracket for dash harness: free with any purchase - small plastic coat hangers (that mount behind drivers and passengers seats), two available: free with any purchase FIRE SALE.....PACKAGE DEAL: $40 total for everything remaining, shipped anywhere in the U.S! $40 for everything, with free shipping!!
  8. Are you trying to avoid camber plates? There are several bolt-in options, that will probably give more neg camber than anything else (except for longer/adjustable front LCAs). Here is just one example of a bolt-in plate that's reasonably priced: https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/suspension/240z-260z-280z-camber-plates-bolt-in-lowering-kit Redrilling the LCA holes in your front crossmember is not a small job, and I would hold off on that option until you have determined that you have roll center/bumpsteer issues that can not be solved any other way. I used offset bushings in my front LCAs for several years without issue, although they do result in more road noise and ride harshness than the stock rubber bushings. I have since switched to a monoball bushings in the LCAs and will eventually make them adjustable length. Plenty of adjustable front LCAs out there off the shelf, but you can make your own quite affordably using the stock LCAs and good quality heim joints. How much is your car currently lowered? As you probably are aware, lowering the front suspension results in additional neg camber as well.
  9. Yep. Good news is that you should be able to weld a new stud/bolt in place there without too much trouble.
  10. What year and model? Bumper mounting configurations varied quite a bit from year to year. A picture of the specific area you're grappling with will help as well. But the quick answer is yes, the bumpers often incorporated threaded studs as part of the mounting; and yes, those studs very often are rusted and/or broken.
  11. Appears that the final sale price was $124K. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/240z-124240/
  12. Aerodynamic, when you say that the T3 gold blocks already have bearings on them; are you talking about the spherical mono ball bearing that's press-fit into the gold block? If so, that just controls the top of your strut shock shaft; but doesn't really do anything to enable smooth rotation between the spring and strut body. Needle bearings in the top hats and/or the lower spring perch will enable that smooth rotation.
  13. Does this happen on both sides, or just the left side? Are you using the T3 top hats, with integrated needle bearings? Or at least some sort of bearings in the coilover system? You can get them in any size and use at the top hat or the lower spring perch, or both. It sounds like your spring and front strut tube are not turning together; thereby 'catching' on the threaded sleeves, causing a hitch...and also damaging the sleeve as well.
  14. For rear toe adjustment, it appears possible since both the lower and upper control arms incorporate double adjusters at the mounting points to the frame structure.
  15. Actually, I've seen differences just between my '73 early-model 260 and my '74 late model 260. Maybe some of that is due to thicker metal, double-layering, or additional reinforcement; but the bottom line is that it results in a stronger/stiffer shell.
  16. Yes, $3K is a very reasonable price for a solid car, even with the engine and interior issues you've noted. Also, being a 280, the shell is made with thicker sheetmetal throughout than earlier year models....so that makes it a sturdier platform for engine swaps/stiffer suspension/etc.
  17. You didn't mention what the purchase price was; but that certainly looks like a pretty solid shell from underneath. If it's been west coast, or Colorado area, it's whole life, that bodes favorably for being close to rust-free. If you haven't already done so, pull the carpets up and inspect the floor pans, firewall, rear shelf, and spare tire well from inside the car. The ice pick idea from bunkhouse is a good one. What kind of "project" are you contemplating? If going for an all-original restoration, then obviously the condition of the interior and drivetrain can be as big a cost factor as the shell. If contemplating a track car and/or engine swap, then that stuff is obviously less important.
  18. Sorry, my bad....may have been thinking of earlier year model. How are you "manually running voltage to the pump to prime the lines"? Have you put in a temporary bypass hot lead to the fuel pump that you can control manually? I'm wondering if it's possible for the fuel pump relays to pass a continuity test but still not function correctly to pass full voltage to the pump while cranking the starter?
  19. Great advice from Miles. I would add "Read as many Build Threads as possible" to the list. These can be found in the "Members Projects" sub-forum.
  20. Actually, I believe your pump is functioning correctly. IIRC, accessories are not powered while the ignition switch is in the "Start" position (i.e. when the starter is cranking).
  21. I'm sure you'll find what you need at either of the two vendors listed; but just as just an FYI for anyone else in the same situation......there's a good shop in the UK that is producing multiple body panels for the S30. Search for username "Kim Mays" on the S30 pages on FB. (They may have a website, as well; but I'm not aware of it.)
  22. Yes, your battery should read 14+ volts when running, if the charge system is functioning properly. Have you measured resistance from the alternator to the battery, as suggested by Newzed? That could help you track down where the losses are occurring. Also, how long is "a while", that the car continues to run after turning the key off? Finally, it seems you believe that a PO has modified the wiring to your tee connector; but have you traced the wiring from end to end? That's really the only way you'll know for sure if they mucked something up when they rewired it.
  23. I would check your shocks as well. Good chance that they're worn out, unless you know for sure when they were last replaced (and with what kind of replacement units). KYB are pretty popular replacement shocks and very affordable. Konis are the bomb, but pricey. Several threads here discuss the many available shock and spring options you can choose from. Obviously, check your brake function too, for driveabilility and safety. Many owners go for long times between pad replacement, brake fluid flush and bleed. Congratulations on your acquisition. Do you know the car's history? If it's like 90% of the used S30's up for sale, it will need a solid going-through to ensure it's road-worthy.
  24. To answer your first question....yes, the stock half-shafts are actually quite stout and often used in applications with similar hp numbers as yours. And half-shafts are very readily available used from any of the Z car forums and FB pages....no need to buy new, unless you just want new parts. Converting back to half-shafts from your current CVs might be a bit tricky. You will need the correct side axle (also sometimes called stub axle, but I believe side axle is the more correct nomenclature) to clip into the Quaife LSD that you could bolt the half-shafts to. If the Quaife internals are the same as the original R200 (spine count and diameter), you should be good to go. If not, I honestly don't know if there's anything commercially available for that. One of the more common LSD swaps uses a Subaru LSD diff, and there are a couple vendors that produce conversion stub axles to mate the OEM half-shafts with the Subaru LSD internals. Have you tried playing with different length sway bar end links? You can easily swap the middle spacer to shorten or lengthen the overall end link. (Sounds like yours might need to be shorter than they currently are.) Sometimes that's all that's needed to give sufficient clearance between the sway bar and the axles. EDITED: Forgot to mention that the half-shafts will typically have more driveline vibration and noise than the CV axles; which you may find undesirable or even unacceptable.
  25. jhm

    S30 Whale Tail

    BUMP. I would ask that comments on my For Sale thread be limited to the specific item for sale....thanks, everyone.
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