jhm

I use GM truck motor mounts on my 350 SBC. They're cheap, sturdy and fit well.

Will do...please give me a couple days.

I've got a good left door (actually have a good right door too) but I think shipping would be pretty expensive. No rust, no bondo, good glass. I'm in zip 23602, if you want to shop for shipping quotes. Greyhound can often be the best deal for big heavy items. LMK if you're interested.

Not mine. Been on eBay for three months now. Can't imagine why it hasn't sold.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240-Z-HEAD-LIGHT-COVER-CRACKED/302191846961?hash=item465c09a631:g:KNEAAOSwA3dYc8pN&vxp=mtr

My late-model 260Z also had the fuel lines running along the passenger frame rail. Car was lowered, raced often, and never had an issue with debris damage to the lines. If you really want to go the extra mile, you could sheath the lines with clear or black hose for extra protection in the most vulnerable areas.

Agree with Nullbound. It should clear....IF you have the car high enough on jack stands. I'm assuming you have a leveler?

You didn't mention the differential mounts, so I would check those as well...this includes the front mount at the nose of the diff and the rear mounts/mustache bar. Even if the nuts and bolts are tight, you can get movement and vibration if the bushings are worn. Most people replace the OEM stuff with poly bushings. And don't forget to check your lower control arm mounting points, as well. I had a rear vibration under similar conditions as you a few years ago and it was driving me nuts trying to track it down. Turned out to be worn rubber bushing on the inner spindle bolts of the LCAs. Replaced all four of them with these guys, and problem solved. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.3104 Good luck with it.

Not sure which harness you have, but you can usually swap out the mounting hardware on many harness setups. (And you can also swap the rear part of the shoulder harnesses as well, as pointed out by theczechone.) Also, have you considered a 4-point roll bar as an alternative to the harness bar? Usually see used bars online for not much more than the new T3 harness bar. Another option for your consideration... Good luck with it. And be sure to post your results once you've decided which route to go. Thx!

Yep, nothing wrong with that. In my case, I eliminated it to give more clearance for the exhaust. Others remove it for weight savings. The little U clips on the rear mounts of the LCA inner spindle also fit the forward mounts. Keep up the great work!

That is one beautiful-looking undercarriage! FYI -- a lot of folks don't use the lower diff mount after installing a RT-style upper mount. You obviously still can use it, if you want, but may not be necessary depending on your intended usage, suspension setup, engine output, etc, etc.

I've been using these for a few months, on both my hazards and turn signals. No issues so far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139OH24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one...you want the entire strut assembly? I can PM you pics tomorrow.

PMs working ok for me (on Firefox).

Looking good, as always, Mark! Curious what parts you used for your CV axles....specifically, which CV joints and what size axle? I'm about to do the same mod on my '73. Thx, and keep the updates coming!

Ditto...same here, with IOS. Haven't been able to login mobile for roughly a week now.

These do not have a significant impact on alignment. They do not change the steering arm mounting points or geometry, and therefore do not have a significant design impact on the front end alignment. The major geometry change occurs in the location of the lower end of the strut, and therefore, the position and location of the front spindle. If you're already planning to do a front-end alignment, I would hold off until you install these first. You may want to try doing the alignment yourself....it's really not that hard, and a good skill to learn, especially if you're planning to do some different types of racing and/or different tracks. Racers are always playing with different alignment settings to optimize performance. Good luck with it.

I installed them recently, and they definitely corrected my LCA angle while giving a good bit more negative camber. Quality and fit are pretty decent. Haven't had a chance to test them at the track, but haven't detected any downside with them yet on the street.

I've seen a few guys use diamond plate for their floorboards...certainly would hold up well to wear and tear.

Summit and Jegs have a huge selection of overflow tanks in many shapes, sizes, and prices.

One pack (36 sq ft) was enough to do a good portion of the interior (floors, roof, and rear deck). I ordered a second pack to do the remaining nooks and crannies (doors, etc), and really only needed a few sheets of the second pack....still have a bunch left over that I'll probably use in my other cars.

Nope, no smell (even when brand new in the box). Haven't found any drawbacks to it yet, and I've had it in the car roughly 6 months.

I'm using a Noico product, and am reasonably happy with it. Good adhesion (even on the roof) and good sound damping qualities. Priced much better than some of the other products, and it's available in black. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deadening-automotive-restoration-insulation/dp/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502376017&sr=8-5&keywords=noico+80+mil+sound+deadener

Hey Greg, have you seen these? Looks like they have what you're looking for. http://stores.ebay.com/wheelspacers2/DATSUN-4LUG-4X114-3MM-4X4-5-/_i.html?_fsub=1748279619&_sid=675963999&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

I have one in ok condition....it's in storage; it'll be a couple days before I can get to it for pictures. Shipping will probably not be cheap, even though I'm on east coast, just due to the large dimensions.

Ditto what 73z85.0 said!