jhm

http://www.zcarsource.com/exterior-tail-light-panel-240z-260z-280z_8_56080.html

Holy crap. Just came across this series of videos on Youtube. Scary. I honestly hope no one has ever used them for instructional purposes. What a freaking hack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kWFnYo05yE&t=312s

Do you feel the vibration, or hear it? Or both? Under what conditions do you notice the vibration? Just cruising at highway speeds? Is it worse under load (either acceleration or braking)? A "no load" vibration indicates something out of balance (e.g. driveshaft or half-shafts). A vibration under load might be due to worn bushings in your LCAs, mustache bar or differential. One way to isolate the source of the vibe would be to have someone else drive, while you crawl around the hatch with a stethoscope.

Hey Leon, I've got a 2000 3rd gen 4Runner (with an automatic) that I occasionally use for towing my race Z (late-model 260 on an open 2-axle car trailer...similar to what you'd be towing.) As a daily driver, I love the 4Runner. I get 22 mpg on the highway, and that 3.4 liter V6 is pretty much indestructible, and the interior is quite large -- back seat is surprisingly comfortable and roomy, even for two adults. If you fold the back seats down (which I usually do), there's a TON of room for cargo -- can easily carry two complete sets of race wheels with room to spare. I bought mine 10 years ago; it has approx 190,000 mi on it; and I haven't had a single major issue with it....zero, zip, nada. As a tow vehicle, it works fine if you're mostly on flat roads. It really struggles in the hills. If you have the 5-speed, it would be better; but it would probably still struggle -- IMO, the 3400 does not have the torque and power to maintain highway speeds on any kind of major incline when towing 3000-4000 lbs. The larger base and option engines available on the 4th and 5th gen models would obviously be much better for towing applications. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other info.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it would be pretty much impossible to guess what seat may have been installed previously using the welded-in mounts. Furthermore, I would hesitate to reuse them unless you are able to absolutely ensure their integrity. A lot of folks will cobble something together when installing aftermarket seats without any real consideration to strength or safety. We have a couple of really good threads here regarding seat swaps, if you're interested. IIRC, one is a pinned thread and another one is 280-specific (due to the hump in the trans tunnel for the catalytic converter.) Sorry couldn't help more.

At least half the time, the issue is with the grounding. 45-year old grounds often do not work well. IIRC, the ground for the rear lights is in a terrible spot under the rear hatch deck and above the tank. Could easily be corroded and grounding poorly. If you're checking it, you might decide that you want to move it to a different location altogether. At the risk of asking a stupid question, have you cleaned the contacts within the bulb socket and/or replaced the bulb itself? The rear lights are exposed to a bunch of moisture and crud, and the sockets can easily become corroded over time, but they are easily cleaned out with some fine-grit sandpaper.

Not even sure if I correctly understand the issue, but what exactly is too dim? The turn signal indicator lights on your dash (i.e. inside the tach face), or the exterior turn signal lights on the front and rear of the car? If it's the former, you could disassemble the tachometer and clean all electrical connections to ensure good voltage to the indicator lights; and clean out the interior (which often gets coated with dust and grit). If it's the latter, you can do the same cleaning of electrical connections and lenses...often makes a big difference in the amount of light transmitted. Finally, you can swap out the old incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs, which can make a huge difference in brightness. LEDs in the turn signals will require an electronic, or solid-state, flasher unit, as the LED bulbs do not draw enough current to activate the old-style thermal flashers. Hope this helps.

Download the FSM for your car at xenonzcar.com and check out the Body Electrical chapter. It will have all the diagrams and schematics you are looking for.

Very cool....thx, Clarkspeed!

Ditto what they said....two thumbs up for ZTrix (you may also find some internet info on "Reaction Research", which I believe is the name John Washington used to operate under.) Personally, I think the YZ is one of the nicest looking body kits out there. Good luck with it.

JBRacing is good, and here's another one worth checking (especially for cantilever slicks): http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563.

HybridZ is a great site (and my personal favorite), but there is also a ton of good info on some other sites you may want to check, particularly if you're doing restoration-type work: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ http://www.classiczcars.com/ Also, you'll want a factory service manual for your year and model. They used to be available on xenons30.com, but no longer. Search 240Z FSM and you may get lucky. You may have to pay for one, but it will be worth it many times over. Looks like a nice find -- good luck with it and have fun.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=1inch+rubber+grommet&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=190508408056&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4148781904786829751&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008565&hvtargid=kwd-296782376793&ref=pd_sl_3cn0xzpnz5_b

That would explain it. Thx. (And yes..."For Free" would be a great addition to the forum.)

Silly question, but JTR doesn't produce that part anymore? Still showing on their website, but maybe it hasn't been kept up to date? I have their rad mounts on my car, and can take measurements if you decide to fab your own. PM me. Happy to help.

Generous offer on your part, but probably should post this in the "Parts for Sale" section?

Off-topic; but that is one clean, shiny new-looking half-shaft, napabill!

I was working on my parking brake linkage the other day, and it looks like you should be able to put a spacer (or washers) on the long linkage...which would have the effect of "shortening" the rod, thereby tightening the system and hopefully giving you the capability to fully engage the parking brake. Good luck with it.

Sorry....meant to say that pressure recommendations can often be found on the manufacturers and vendors websites. TIreRack.com is a good source of data. The right answer will vary for every driver, based on numerous variables. Tire construction methods, compounds and materials vary significantly; and they all affect a tire's comfort, performance and wear characteristics. What I find "comfortable" may be intolerable to others. Some highways are in great shape....others are a crumbling mess full of potholes, expansion seams, etc. Experimenting with different pressures will yield the best result for you.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

What tires? Usually, the manufacturer's recommendation will give the optimum mix of comfort and performance for everyday driving...it's printed on the sidewalk.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/?

Have you checked with JTR, as Tyler suggested? Probably costs a bit more, but may have it quicker for you if you need it asap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html

Also, don't forget the importance of proper bumpstops. Recent discussion here covered this topic: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126177-ride-difference-between-cut-springs-and-coil-overs/?hl=%2Bbump+%2Bstops&do=findComment&comment=1179414

Thanks for all that info, Mark....and good tip regarding the longer adjuster bolt. The AZC arms are indeed $299 per side; but of course they include an adjustable TC rod, as well. Thx, everyone. r/John