BlueZ31

Recently started having tachometer issues, the needle wont go past 2,200 rpms even at full throttle acceleration and at cruising speeds the rpms are about 2-300 below where they should be (1,200rpms in 5th gear at 55mph on a stock 87 N/A is not right) i changed out my coil which temporarily solved the problem but a week later the issues come back to haunt me, along with a very loud humming noise from the drivers side dash area present only while the engines running. Anyone had similar issues or know of a fix?

Ive been doing some research on programming options on my 87 300zx and stumbled across the Jet V-force plus, its a monitor style programmer and also displays gauges ect, and they offer it for vehicles as far back as the 1990 nissan d21,pathfinder,and maximas equipped with the single cam vg30e, and apparently its a hard wiring style installation, now im just curious as to if this would work on a (slightly) older vg30e engine system, and if the ecu/diagnostic systems changed much in those 3 years because if not im going to rush order this ASAP.

so ive got the brackets nearly finished to mount a wynjammer centrifugal supercharger on my '87zx and the necessary electronics to run it, along with the usual mods of headers/exhaust,cams and cam gears,etc. With the aforementioned mods and around 7psi of boost how much hp might i be looking at and what would it take to accomplish my goals of 250hp?

Ive got a setup that i need some help working out. I picked up a Wynjammer supercharger slightly used from a wrecked 350 tbi small block chevy pickup, i looked it up and got a lot of great reviews on it, and it appears to give between 6-8psi of boost. The pulley will work perfectly with the spot setup on the crank for A/C and im already fabricating an adapter to mount it to the blank A/C bracket. Ive also got a 84' and a '88 turbo california ECU and injectors plus MAF and boost sensors. Will the stock turbo ecu and injectors work with a centrifugal supercharger? Theres a white z31 on youtube with a paxton setup and it looks awesome. Which ecu would work on my '87 zx non-w code vg30e? any input on supercharging the vg30e would be greatly appreciated. also, dumb question but ive never seen a complete vg30et setup, all the ones ive seen in scrapyards are picked clean, does the turbo boost through the MAF or does it go from compressor side straight to the intake? and is the boost sensor required?

I found a centrifugal supercharger for $300 rebuilt from a seadoo on ebay, and from the jetskis specs it makes 255hp from a rotax 3cyl 1.5L 4-stroke,and it looks like a belt drive gear could be easily fit on it, could something like this be used on my vg30e powered '87 zx? any input on these superchargers would be greatly appreciated. I know theres a 2x displacement difference but i figured if it could provide 9psi to a smaller engine at far higher rpms it could possibly work on the vg30e. I was planning on using my empty A/C bracket to mount it, and it looks like it may be internally lubricated, but cant find very much info on the supercharger itself other than problems with the ceramic clutch disks, but it seems to only occur at very high rpms which wouldnt be much hassle with a 5500rpm redline im sure.

thanks sixshooter i had no idea the amount of force exerted by the exhaust on the turbine, i do need to research more but this was just a sort of random thought that breezed through one day. And to be a little more specific i never planned on connecting it directly to the alternator, ever, because itd just add unnescessary drag and power loss,like the bilge pumps seen on ebay and youtube. the fan runs on a pack of LiIon batteries.

what i meant by "blower" is a fan, not a blower in the sense of a supercharger like sweetleaf assumes, and i wouldnt couple it directlyto the alternator thatd be just straight retarded since (like it was stated) the engine and alternator would have to work harder to produce the electricity needed to run the blower, and yes i know its an unrestricted rating but im not going for the wild 15-20 psi more like 5-6 ( as i stated this is an experiment) and the 30 hp your saying the turbo consumes is mostly the heat energy being expelled by the exhaust i dont think anyone takes into consideration the force of the exhaust gases itself in a hp rating, and i know that the restriction of the turbo creates backpressure the engine has to work against but if the restriction was that great i dont think turbo motors would even run at all. and the 30hp electric motor idea has been debunked by thomas knight using a 8hp motor (although for a measly 15 seconds per run) to produce in excess of 5psi. again most of that wasted power in the exhaust is heat and while the expansion created by heated gases has an effect on the turbo heat energy itself does not drive the turbo, if such was the case id just dump some gas on the exhaust side and light it up. i also know that the pulse from the exhaust stroke exhibits force on the turbine blades so should i also use a sort of tubular sub enclosurein connection with the blower and use the speaker to produce pulses similar to that from the exhaust along with the blower? id like to think that doing so would pressurize the enclosure and put more force on the exhaust side. i appreciate the constructive critiscism posted previously, i really do because it helps me look at this idea from all angles, however im not giving up i just need to put more thought into it. i also understand that this is really a Z forum (which i do own it just happens to be 2400miles away from me at the moment) and not a "random idea" forum so i also appreciate everyone taking the time to just read the post and not delete it . thanks all

Okay so some time ago i posted a thread concerning a project involving a (hold on give it a chance) electricaly operated turbocharger. im stationed at 29palms ca for the USMC electronicscomm school and in my downtime ive played with this idea. most "turbos" you see on ebay are just bilge pumps and the only mild "sucess" was thomas knights ridiculously complicated and expensive unit, but i was suprised to see no ones tried driving the turbo by the means it was intended, ie through the exhaust side, all the ones ive seen are electric motors directly geared (in vain) to the compressor in hopes of producing some boost, but heres my idea. I looked into STS's kit for my 94 z28 awhile ago and recently looked more into it on a theoretic basis mostly, i figure that if a single, small sized turbo can operate at the rear of a car where the pulse of the exhaust stroke is mostly disrupted by the cat converter and the exhaust bends and the vast majority of the heat has been dissipated AND still manage to charge the long length of intake piping running from the rear to the engine bay then surely i could drive the exhaust side via a blower and make a decent amount of boost considering it could be mounted up front without the need for a intercooler or long lengths of intake tract. i calculated (and correct me if im wrong) the airflow of the vg30e at .80 VoluEff to be around 250cfm at 5500rpms. ive located two electric blowers and heres the ratings. 1. 425 cfm @ 195mph or 2. 255 cfm @ 235mph Which would be best? more cfm or a higher velocity? ive been working on this for some time and am ready to work on a experimental version (of which ill include pics ect) i just need expert advice on what would be the best path to take on the blowers and what size turbo would be best also. Thanks for your time and advice hope to hear something soon so i can start on it. -Rob-

actually im from havelock NC but im currently stationed in 29palms california but eventually im going to have the s12 shipped home if youre still around your more than welcome to stop by and check it out

voltage is normal, it could be a vac leak but i dont hear any noise that would give it away all the connections on the engine itself look perfect it just stumbles/hesitates to start as if its not getting enough power and today the battery is drained i think theres a short somewhere or that red wire is draining the battery im gonna look into it more, thx 4 the advice though

my cars having a bit of trouble, the battery light on the dash is just dimly lit (barely visible) but it has a noticble, slight misfire and stumble at idle, the entire motor is bone stock all i can see out of the ordinary is a red aftermarket power wire connecting from the white wire on the alternator to the + side of the battery that i dont remember having on my z (this is a s12 se v6 im working on) and a bosch 0 332 014 150 relay thats not getting power ( i think its a hazard relay idk) it drives fine im just stuck on why the batt light it still on considering its got a new battery,alternator and belt perfectly tensioned, new plugs cap and rotor (are iridiums innapropriate on a vg30e? they came installed from previous owner) i dont know what could be causing the missfire im experiencing. should there even be a wire from the alt's white wire to the battery? it was literaly just wrapped around it and connected to the battery by the prevoius owner for some reason or another.

i know this is a Z-oriented forum (and theres one for s12s) i just have always had better luck geting my questions answered here. I just added a 88 s12 200sx SE to my Nissan family (95k miles all original, interior looks like hell from desert sun plus a few dents here and there) but overall its fun to drive but im looking to start upgrading the bone stock vg30e as i have done in my 87 zx, does anyone here have advice on v6 200sx's? ive heard the headers from our Z's wont fit without extensive mods but the shortys from the fwd maxima would work but i cant verify this to be true. im just looking for a good point to start from as far as performance goes (which i know there isnt much as far as NA is concerned for vg0e's but id like to uncork the motor as much as possible to make the daily commute a little more interesting)

awesome, exactly the formula i was looking for, im in the process of putting together a experimental version, it looks as though ill have to have a speaker and controller that will pulse exactly as the engine would to have (i would assume) the same effect on the impeller, and as it would appear from my research about 120db would be correct if not slightly less.

also if anyone can give me an estimate of the decible rating of the exhaust pulse exiting the combustion chamber ( im guessing around 150db) and also an estimate of the exhaust pulse frequency around 3,000-3,500rpms on a 6-cylinder engine (i know cams ect affect this i just need a estimate for instructional purposes only) anyone who can provide this info i would greatly appreciate thx.

Im out here at twentynine palms c.a. for electronics/comm school and in my downtime ive been tooling with some ideas of mine, one includes this. Ive got my hands on a battery powered blower which flows 460cfm at 230mph, im curious as to if i was to use 2.5in tubing to connect this to a relatively average sized turbo what could be done to possibly create boost, (this is just to see if any would be possible, an experiment if you will) now i know that the sound wave that preceedes the exhaust wave creates force on the impeller and pressurizes the system, so in theory could i combine a ultrasonic or just plain loud sound device in combination with the blower to create enough force on the impeller blades to pressurize a average size 4 or 6 cylinder gasoline engine? my other idea would be to use a hydraulic system using a high pressure (1,400psi) water jet on the impeller in a closed system, but im dead set on the above mentioned idea.....any thoughts or criticisms? i would be using my 87 zx as the testbed for this.

anyone know the maximum amount that can be shaved off a vg30e head before valve clearance/intake manifold mounting issues present themselves? ive got a new block assy in place and im looking for a way to add a little oomph to my DD, ive got a good mod list going but i figured a CR increase might help... and i know cams affect the dynamic/static CR so heres the specs INTAKE TIMING Duration:256 Open: 9 before TDC Close: 67 After BDC Cam lift: .281 Valve lift: .425 Valve Lash: .000 Exhaust Duration:256 Open: 67 Before BC Close: 9 After TDC Cam Lift: .281 Valve Lift: .425 Valve Lash: .000 Overlap: 18 Deg. Taken at .050 Lifter Rise Intake Duration: 202 Deg Exhaust Duration: 202 Open: -18 before TDC Open: 40 Before BDC Close: 40 After BDC Close: -18 AFter TDC i was told .030 was the limit for vg30e's, anyone else tried head milling or thinner gaskets? id appreciate any advice greatly, ive only got 1 1/2 weeks left to get it assembled and enjoy it till i ship to parris island..woooot!

instead of using the cone filter and plumbing it like you've shown why not box up that section of the cowl where the tb's already at and use a K&N or similar panel filter?

as a supporting mod for the 60mm tb/engloids plenum/ cams ive got ready to install im considering also using a 94 cobra maf, BUT it seems that i cant find a clear answer on using one. Some posts/ other nissan forums state that its a simple swap and you dont need any tuning or changes to the ecu to use it, while others state that you absolutely need to reprogramm the ecu to function at all with the larger maf, which is right? Im sure that tuning would reap the full benifits of the larger maf but is it as simple as plug and play or is it necessary to change over to a jwt ecu or likewise? ive already got a maf lined up at a local salvage yard, i just need a clear answer, and also, why the cobra maf? why not just a 5.0 'stang or truck maf or is there a difference between them? thnx, hope you guys can help!

ok, i know everyones probably tired of heaps of n/a vg30e posts like "why cant i make as much as (insert name here)'s turbo motor?" but this is actually a serious set of questions. ive always liked reading old engine builders books, and since the engine has a "dynamic flow path" as smokey yunick once put it im having trouble figuring out what the vg30e's primary weakness from a power building standpoint is! we all know there durable and decently fuel efficent motors, and capable of great turbo power, but why is it so difficult to build power without boost or nitrous? Especially given that you do things like the ka24de throttle body, engloids plenum,polished lower intake,headers etc...whats the bottleneck in this system? are the heads/valvetrain the main weakness? or is it possible than nissan's original fuel map is too conservative, or possibly the ignition system? Im at a loss of direction, ive already set aside the following for my motor -engloids plenum fully polished topped by a ka24de body/ lower intake p/p -isky cams/three angle job/JWT springs -headers/hi-flo cat/ cat-back -msd-6a/bosch wires/plugs -nismo t-stat and e-fan/aluminum rad -aluminum flywheel (on backorder:() -a/c delete I just feel as though theres something that hasnt been done before or has been overlooked repeatedly that could free up a good deal of power....i know from experience that on small chevy's one of the biggest increase to be had is from a set of heads/and a compression bump (like a 25% increase on some applications) could it be the heads that are killing any further attempts at power!? maybe some port work/extrude honing? I have no experience with ecu tuning, but i considered a JWT ecu, good idea/bad idea? hope you guys dont mind weighing in on this yet again, and sorry for the overuse of the ???'s im just a little frustrated:evil:

im sure youve all seen/heard or even used expansion chamber exhausts on 2-strokes (200+hp from a 650cc snowmobile is insane!) but ive always thought that these only worked due to no valves (except on reed-valve motors) which poses no restriction to the sound wave supercharging effect..BUT i got to thinking that with a set of well p/p heads and low restriction intake manifold,along with good smooth-stemmed valves and a cam with a good amount of overlap might allow for a similar exhaust system and the benefits that come with the expansion chamber after looking around i found that a company called "fmf" sells powerbomb pipes for motorcycles that use a expansion chamber (also called a reverse cone system) in the middle of the header pipe to increase low-midrange power (10% increase in power output on a otherwise stock 450cc 4-stroke 1 cyl) considering the vg30e i have displaces about 500cc per cylinder (im guessing) 3 of these on each side in a 3-1 style header system might show some potential. i know equal pulse headers develope the same results but are difficult to make, so has anyone ever thought of using expansion chambers or seen them used on 4-strokes? i know many porsches of the 60's-mid 80's used megaphone exhuasts that use a varying diameter cone with reverse insert to achieve a similar positive pressurizing effect in the combustion chambers, as do many formula 1 motors, but a search on google yielded little results on this subject. i hope someone can shed some light on this subject for me as this might be an awesome upgrade for N/A motors period and might be something alot of the forum might be interested in if it proves worthwhile

Im in the process of a clutch change on my N/A '87 300zx and have long considered a aluminum flywheel, and was wondering if one for a 90-96 n/a or TT z32 would work on my vg30e? Ive found only 2 brands actually for the 84-89 zx's, ones fidenza, the others some off brand called valero (a aluminum flywheel, kevlar clutch/plate, and tools for $300 sounds too good to be true) but theres tons of brands for the later z's, and prices arent as steep either. And is it really worth it anyways? ive heard good things and also have heard that it does very little, if any, improvement in response and power.

We did have the 323 you described above, it was called the 323 gtx and is extremely rare and a bit of a cult car, so good luck to me finding one... Im not really interested in fuel economy, just additional power, and boost or nitrous is not on my mind due to the (possibly) damaging effects to the high mile engine. This was really just an idea, seeing as how its been done to some gas motors with decent success, and the additional power without increasing fuel consumption other than the extra load of the motor would be nice. As for the batteries i considered just using enough for a few bursts maybe 5-10 minutes max to uncomplicate things and reduce weight, and theres enough room in front of the engine that a barrel-shaped motor could be connected up front and it would be down low enough to not affect handling too much. If it could be done i think it would be worth a shot, seeing as how mounting the motor to the crank pulley, wiring it and powering it would be alot easier than a turbo swap that involves different motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, injectors,ecu,(the list goes on...) and would be easily removable, especially compared to turbocharging or even nitrous.

just an update, apparently this is actually quite common in some hybrids, its called IMA or "intergrated motor assist" and honda's insight uses a 14hp pancake motor sandwiched inbetween the 3-cyl gas motor and transmission to act as what honda describes "electric supercharger" pretty much literally because it kicks in under heavy load and increases tq across the entire band by as much as 66%, and since its connected directly to the crankshaft this leads me to believe it could be done to a vg30e, its just a matter of how and how much motor (more hp means more batteries and more weight) but the good thing is that the motor/generator type could be used to recharge its own batteries when not in use, and if a torqueless 3-cyl 1.3l motor can constantly turn a large electric motor with no harm to the engine itself im sure the stout vg30e could too..

im sure youve all read/seen/heard about hybrid electric/gas vehicles over the past years (such as the prius) and i remember seeing that the vehicle uses both motors under heavy acceleration which gave me an idea:wc:.. Lets first forget the problems of weight and providing electricity for the sake of debating this subject. My concept is a hybrid car electric motor attached directly to the crank pulley thats activated either by a wide-open throttle switch or rocker switch in the vehicle upon hard acceleration only I found one suitable motor thats about 90-120lbs (give or take) and provides 35hp and whopping 258lbft of torque constanly up to 8,000 rpms (its a motor intended for vw beetle based kit-cars) operates off of a battery pack (relatively small too) could the two motors be used in unison effectively? i know the weight of the motor and packs would probably negate the added performance but the battery pack could be reduced in size since its not the main motor and possibly only be used for short bursts, Also, would it have any dire effects on the vg30(e) from prolonged use (or use at all?) I know this is probably a strange (or stupid) idea but it just crossed my mind and i wanted to see what you guys think too. Oh, and the motor comes with the necessary controller and hardware/instructions(for vw use), i took electronics in school (only 2 semesters awhile ago but enough to give me a good grip on the concept) and this seems like something i could accomplish with a push in the right direction. also keep in mind that electric motors are rated on a much different scale than gasoline or diesel motors which are rated at peak hp whereas the electric ones are rated at its constant operating voltage hp (they can provide up to 8 times their rating for short durations at the expense of battery longevity and motor wear). As i mentioned im no expert in either the field of electronics or Z cars, im just waiting for the Z guru's to wei gh in and share their opinions.

ooops, forgot to mention its a vg30(e), the radiator is larger than stock, and the fan itself is pretty sufficent, ive came to the conclusion that its the guage itself, because while the cars running it constantly reads at about dead center (around 190') but immediatly after turning the engine off and then putting the keys in accsessory the guage shows around 150-160'....kinda strange but stock guages (especially 20+ year old ones) are know to be alittle off so maybe this is the reason.