BlueZ31

Air resistance was a concern of mine, and ive no doubt i couldnt make the 8psi max of the turbo, 4psi would be extremely lucky but id be very pleased (and shocked) with 2psi, i figure its worth a shot and if it fails ill just move on, I considered fabbing a bracked out of my old a/c pump and using a belt drive system (replacing the a/c pump itself with the turbo) im sure this could be done but that adds all sorts of stresses to the turbo and crank not to mention id have to still find the right gears, but i know for a fact the engine makes more than enough power to make it work, its just for how long! i also considered keeping the center shaft with the belt drive idea and filling the oiling system with GM supercharger oil/lucas oil stabilizer and capping it off and changing it every 3k miles or so. Come to think of it ill probably ditch the electric idea due to complications and just try n fab a bracket for it....we'll be testing it on my friends 3.0l windstar van prior to Z application, just to make sure of everything . I thought about using the camshaft gear drive system from a SBC considering the cover has provisions for a pulley to be mounted and their usually pretty strong gears, just have to get the right ratio id assume.

Okay, ill spill my guts on my experiment, but NO laughing! My turbo is from my buddies volvo 5cyl, the timing belt slipped and sent valve/piston pieces into the exhaust side completely destroying it, so we threw it in the shed for later experimentation, and starting firing out ideas for uses for the compressor side since a rebuild would cost as much as a reman oe unit...and i came up with this idea..DONT LAUGH...lol..or at least dont post your laughing. Ive dealt in electronics for some time, and cars also, and seen some pretty cheap attempts at electronic boost like ebay bilge pumps or expensive and unnescessary ones like thomas knights electric roots-blower, but my idea is to seperate EVERYTHING from the compressor side back, to make it as light as possible while keeping the blades stable with no in/out side/side play, and hooking up a aluminum gear drive system to it. The motor were using is from a cordless circular saw ( 18v, 4,500 max load speed with sh*t loads of torque) and we would seperate the motor/wiring from the case and use a pressure switch under the vehicle throttle to activate it at a predetermined vehicle rpm *3,000* and since it uses battery packs it be easy to recharge and compact. with a 4500 w/load speed and minimum turbo shaft speed of 50,000 the smallest gear ratio i can come up with is 11:1 and most realistic gearing is 110t:10t or a larger tooth gear of 66t:6t*the motor itself has a large tooth 6t gear attached*. or possibly a friction-wheel drive,and id use graphite for lubrication as it would only see a marginal amount of day to day use, im sure the motor is up to the job, since the tool has a load speed of 4,500 and can cut through tile im assuming the motor has enough torque and a higher rpm than the tool itself (because of internal gearing) the only problem im having now is finding gears big and strong enough without a large amount of weight, and considering the compressor blade weighs around 1.5lbs compared to the weight of a larger diameter*8in* thick steel saw blade 50,000 rpms should be achievable, to tell the truth im really just interested in if it can make over 2psi, maximum of 4psi, but i dont know how fast id have to get the shaft spinning to achieve those numbers again, this is only an experiment due to pure boredom and ive always loved using electric motors in my ideas...any help or critisism is more than welcome, and if anyone can help me find gears that arent ridicoulously huge/small heavy or weak *all i can find are rc car gears and it doubt they would hold up to the task* id appreciate it!

I had been told about the 3.4 setup, but never a 3.8, damn thats huge! like my friends camaro, only alot lighter and alot better..ha... What overbore are you talking about? id assume somewhere between .040-.080? my only concern with overboring is the added rotating weight might make it a little less responsive on the top end, the stock vg30e engine is pretty "square" which makes for a good motor throughout the rpm range. Plus an overbore would lower the max redline, right? Unless i used higher strength bearings im assuming, ive read that the z32 rods are actually pretty thick/strong so im sure it'd be a stout setup, definently something to keep in mind.

I need help measuring something i have no idea how to, and its for an ongoing experiment of mine.. Ive got a garrett t3/t4 turbo 63 trim, 50 A/R internally regulated at 8psi and i need to know the shafts consistent speed at 7-8psi, ive heard anywhere from 15,000rpms all the way up to 200,000rpms, which is too wide of a margin, i just need to narrow it down to within 5,000rpms of what it might be running at.... Thanks and hope you guys can help me, and when i complete my experiment im fabricating ill definently post pics, i just need to figure this one bit of info out or the whole idea collapses!

True, im sure the metal contracting so much would cause all kinds of changes throughout the system, meaning it would probably require alot of custom parts like bearings etc....and yes im sure the 300hp vg30e is one helluva aggresive motor, probably too much for street use, but the 267hp street motor would do the trick, its just hard justifying 8,900 for a vg30e, even if it is built to new specs. Thanks for weighing in on my idea...i live right next to a Marine air base and a buddy of mine works in the cryogenics plant (mostly for compressed air parts on the av-8b harriers and f/a-18s) and had heard of this form of treatment through him, turns out the gov.t has been using it for decades, for parts like jerryb mentioned, gears and other high load high use parts.

Awhile back when i was looking for ways to improve my N/A vg30e (which most, if not all owners are opposed to) i found an interesting site, hekimian racing engines (of which ive seen little discussion on, no doubt due to the *choke* $20,000+ price) He uses a process called cryosoaking in which prior heat treated parts are placed in a vat and indirectly cooled with liquid nitrogen in stages, which supposedly increases durability up to 400% AND makes the surfaces so smooth and nearly perfect that it reduces friction tremendously which of course, in turn translates to power. Hes got two vg30e motors, a 267hp @ 6,000rpms street at $8,900 and the 300hp @7,000rpms 240tq race mill at an astounding $20,000, all of which includes a ECU tune, prepped block and "expertly crafted" heads....pretty nice considering it takes a vq35 12 more valves and .5 more liters to make nearly the same power and same redline...but the even better thing is that he offers the cryosoaking treatment (at a price of course) on any clean and dissasembled engine or part specificaly and ive considered a vg33 buildup for some time, which should respectively (on comparison to the vg30e of the same build) make 330hp @ 7,000rpms with the heads and cams ive already had extensively worked, im just a little gunshy to this exclusive and unheard of treatment and dont know if it would be worth the $1,000+ to treat all the nescessary parts. Think its just a bunch of snake oil or a tried and proven true method?

Im doing a NA vg30e buildup for fun, and i found it odd that the redline is so low (5,500), which isnt alot to play with. Is it because of the restrictive intake which would make revving past 5,500 turbo and N/A useless? Or is it a combination of the strength of the valve springs ,valve train/bottom end? Any tips on building a high revving motor would be appreciated! OH and i forgot to mention im using JWT stiffest springs and the center springs(stockers) in combination, and im curious as to whether or not anyones found/made a higher ratio rocker arm for this mill, if im not mistaken their rated at a conservative 1.5 right? i saw measurable rwhp gains by switching to 1.7's in my old 350 so i figured this might be another addition for my list if their out there...

i said CRANK hp and yes the vq is CLOSE to 250bs lighter minus AC and power steering pump, aluminum block/heads etc make it a pretty light motor, guys over at z31.com who work for nissan have had one weighed and it was in the 300-320lb range depending on the year due to different designs (slightly) and additional sensors and electronics, and according to them its alot lighter than any of the vg series(with all electronics and accesories attached), so if its an innacurate statement its on them im just using them as a reference. Ive seen guys do the old skool roadster thing and replace their doors with leather zip-up style cutouts with plastic windows, but i think it wouldnt look right on a Z so losing power accesories might be the way to go along with losing alot of the interior trim, maybe using lightweight guages in favor of the stock dash/cluster and ditching the heater/blower radio, tool box/spare tire, and alot of weight can be dropped by losing the bumper supports and using a shorter length exhaust system, etc. im sure i might be able to get it down to 2900 at least, pretty soon itll be my side car so not having the necesseties wouldnt pose a problem, and i dont plan on boosting it because i already enjoy it like it is, i dont need a sh**load of power to have fun, just a good handling, responsive car, lightening it would just allow me to take advantage of the power its already making.

I know its been posted and posted a million and one times in this forum on making N/A power in a vg30e, but heres my setup MSA headers MSD 6al engloids plenum NGK wires and Bosch plat's E-Fan and No A/C JWT stage 2 cams and springs Head work with 3-angle job CAI and a full cat-back exhaust Im hoping to be in the 200 crank hp, and im at a loss as to what to do next other than a vg33 buildup, im wanting to stay NA with this or any future motor just because i lack any experience with turbos and i love the super responsiveness of a NA and a xterra supercharger just doesnt sound worth the effort (though a blower poking through the hood would be extremely badass) Im thinking maybe working on the drivetrain, say like a aluminum driveshaft/flywheel or messing with the rear-end gears or diff, but after that im lost on what to do next... anyone here running a JWT ecu for a NA or even a turbo? im guessing its the last thing i could do to complement my setup and possibly pick up a few extra ponies....any ideas or a good direction for a swap would be appreciated id honestly be happier with a good sounding, reliable car that feels fast N/A than a turbo 400++hp car that is fast but eats through gas and may be a little tempermental on the upkeep

okay, with some calculations ive figured that with the 200-210 crank hp im making in my Z if i can shave the cars weight down to 2500lbs (tough to do, i know) with a good launch on street tires ill be in the sub-6 second 0-60 range which would be awesome..sooo Ive alread dropped the entire a/c system, along with the clutch style fan, and lighter wheels, how else could i drop some weight and still have a car thatll pass inspection and not look like a junkyard find? im guessing replacing the rear window and rear side windows with thin lexan, maybe loosing the carpet in favor of spray in liner, and of course CBFB hood n hatch (expensive though) any other ideas? how much do you guys think i could drop? and later down the road (much later) im considering tryng a vq35 swap (the engine alone is almost 300lbs lighter than the good 'ol vg) so puting my car on a diet would also help that too in the near future..

For some reason or another the intake rocker arms on my passenger side VG30e motor go for about a month or two and then slowly start tapping louder and faster, and i honestly dont know what could be causing it since ive always maintained a good oil change schedule and use lucas oil stabilizer at every change... Awhile back though one of the rockers became seized with a dark greyish sludge so badly that it couldnt be move by hand at all, and all i can think of is that maybe it was seized so badly that the lifter jammed and scored the cam lobe causing it to lift unevenly possibly leaving a gap between the tip of the rocker and the lifter itself that cant be adjusted, but it still doesnt explain why it seized in the first place or why its so damn noisy..not to mention why my friends z31 with a fresh set of heads,cams and lifters taps upon start up too..maybe to much strain on the valvetrain or a flaw in the stock oiling system!? the heads are non-w-code. any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated!

I've got a newer/better set of cams ready to install, BUT i need help finding the best/cheapest place to get new lifters for a VG30e, everywhere i go its in the $20 range which is plain stupid, hell i could get a complete (hydraulic) set for my old V8 firebird for like 120, $240+ seems ridiculous for such a common engine, considering its been in 200sx's,300zx's, pathfinders,xterras,villagers,quests,maximas,etc. from '84 all the way up to like '04...is there anywhere cheaper? Ive also been told i can "resurface" old lifters with a certain grain sandpaper, but wouldnt this ruin them or defeat the purpose of a higher lift cam?

im wiring in a self-destruct system in my car as i type, someone hauls ass in it and its not me,their going up in a mushroom cloud o' smoke..lol..i cant have it neither can they! Had the same thing happen to me sans the gunpoint (i came out and the windows were busted on my car) luckly the crappy fuel pump defeated their efforts, ha

well, now ive got it all added up (sorta) i can use my friends t3 volvo turbo with the internal wastegate set at 8psi (same as a stock vg30et, right) use a t-fitting at the oil pressure sender to send oil to the turbo (or isnt there a fitting somewhere on the LH side of the block for the original turbo i could use?) then route the oil back to one of the rocker covers VIA a high-temp electric oil pump (checking summit for one as i post this) and ive got a heat-shielded air filter ready with a dust sock from summit as well, the hardest part i think would be routing the intake air up to the cabin and avoiding the headers and any other hot or moving parts. Mounting the turbo in the catalytic converters space would provide ample heat shielding to the car while lowering the distance the intake and exhaust would have to travel to/from the turbo, along with lessening the strain on the oiling system too..or so im hoping..lol..STS has it directly at the back of the car in their systems, and it uses so much intake tubing and exhaust hardware it looks like a M.C Escher printing..ha! definently not for me, but i do like the idea of retaining my shiny, shiny headers and adding a bit of boost too! BUT im assuming i cant just throw in a turbo ECU, injectors and 02 sensor and everything work, right? isnt there other wiring to be done (like a knock sensor, possibly different fuel pump?) or would it work? I just really need advice on wiring the correct electronics, any expert NA-turbo advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

Ive been browsing this forum for some time, and its answered most of my questions without having to post or join, but now that im in id like to say thanks for letting me be a part of HybridZ! Anways, ive got a NA '87 and its pretty built right now (MSD 6a, pacesetter ceramic coated headers,BeCool e-fan,turbo-radiator,stage 1 cams,jwt springs and a gutted intake), but if im gonna really see any more power itll require boost, and ive been opposed to turbos for the main reason of it meaning id have to ditch my headers (which i REALLY like) and i know that the squires remount mount turbo system has been debunked on this forum before BUT what if i was to mount a stock '85 turbo downstream? or would a smaller '87 up turbo be more beneficial? The only other form of boost i considered was a centri' style supercharger due to the ease of install/intercooling ability and itd let me keep my plenum, but their so damn expensive used ones still go for 700usd and up! Local laws dont require emissions testing and im good for a whole nother year on inspection, so i figured i could mount it in place of the cat' converter, where it would be relatively safe from road debris, however ive got a few problems in this setup im hoping you all can solve: 1. how would i route the oil lines, and would it be able to return/recieve oil on its own or would i need some sort of pump? 2. What would be the best way to mount the air filter to avoid sucking up dust and water while still recieving a good amount of air? im assuming mounting it under the car would provide sufficent airflow, right? or maybe install it in some sorta side-scoop? 3. I know most of the whole NA to turbo requirements (a buddy of mine has a '88 he did a na-turbo using a na block and heads so he'll come in handy for the electricals and debugging) but he's running an after-market blow off valve AND fmic, should i do the same or would it run okay without any sorta bypass or bleed-off, and would aluminum intake tubing provide sufficent intake charge cooling? Love to hear suggestions and criticism (constructive preferably..lol) im not entirely new to boost or the vg30e but id love to pick everyones brains on this:icon45: