walkerbk

Trying to figure out if this is an lsd or just a 4 pinion. Seller says it's out of a zx so I'm guessing it's just a 4 pinion but hope he just doesn't know. I have only seen the inside of a 2 pinion diff.

I am looking for a hi-low beam headlight selector switch. I do not Need the whole assembly, just the switch. I have a 280z but I think they are all the same.

The original connectors are actually very good. I had good luck reusing them and then bought extras and connectors from Amazon for less than $20, they are actually very common connectors (the only common part on the datsun).

I went back and looked. The only O-rings I bought at the time was the Dorman O-ring kit of like 10 different sizes. I assume I matched up the sizes as close as I could get. I know that's probably not what you wanted to hear but that's all I can think of. Make sure its the epdm type rubber as the other stuff will melt away.

Did you have to trim the back (rear) of the front fenders? I'm rubbing my 11in wide rims with 275/50r15s on the rear of the fender (trimmed the front just like you did)

If I'm not mistaken I went to napa with the seals in hand and found some that fit tight. I would suspect you could also order replacements from McMaster that would work perfectly. I will look back through my notes on this.

looks good. I really like that double exhaust outlet and most peoples exhaust area is not in the best of shapes so this option would really clean it up.

I bought the stuff below and after cutting my stuff apart from the rubber (it practically fell off) I glued it on with a plastic epoxy. It is thin enough I was able to glue two side by side to ensure there was a very tight seal. Sourcingmap Window Weather Seal Strip 0.22 Inch Width x 1/4-Inch Thick x 19.7 Feet Length https://a.co/d/9lcueRx

Well if you are looking for a complete rebuild kit... If you need replacement seals, this is perfect. Everything is different except the seals. I was able to replace all mine and get a good working master cylinder. If you are interested, see the part numbers below. Engine is together and is in. everything is plugging in nicely. I have to finish plugging in the exhaust, install the fuel tank, and finish the cooling system. almost there!!!

That's not bad at all. I chopped up mine and threw a 2002 camaro fuel tank in it. Even if I kept the spare tire I doubt I would have had the guts to use it.

From the photos it looks clean. Let the fun begin.

Well my 280zx 15/16 master cylinder has been leaking and I have been looking for a rebuild kit prior to taking it apart. After much research and reading that they are no longer available I might have found a solution. The link below is a master cylinder for a 720 with a 15/16 master cylinder. Best case everything swaps over (looks similar), worst case the seals should be able to swap over. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IZ07L4?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

I powder coated my suspension and the up front cost is high , but now everything is basically free ($20 bag of powder goes a long way). I have coated all suspension, cross member, valve covers, transmission case, oil pans... all for 2x bags of powder and the stuff is as durable as it gets

Got some work done on the car this weekend. I finished buttoning up the Transmission and got some work done on the center counsel/ radio. I had the common crack in the center counsel by the ash tray so I pulled everything off it and reinforced the area with fiberglass. To my surprise, when i finished, the patch just popped right off. I am guessing this is due to some kind of release agent that was applied and is still on the plastic. After some light sanding, some more epoxy was applied to the patch to glue it in place and everything held fine. I was originally going to put a cup holder where the ash tray was located but couldn't find a good place to install the power window motors so I ended up using that area instead. This is honestly the best place for them anyways as they are easily accessible from both sides and the ash tray underneath allows for the wiring to be installed. Once that was done, I 3d printed a radio face plate to cover up the factory area and the "warning" lights below. After gluing it in place I was able to attach my radio screen to the face plate. This allowed me to still use the switches with no impedance and made for a much lighter center counsel. The only thing is, I will have to trim a 1/2" off my AC control panel to make it fit together. Once everything was installed I got on and played with the setting doing the most important thing... updating the background. whatcha think. P.s, this is a full android sound system with 4g (if I want) so it is very customizable. I think HP tuners is come out with an app to hook up to their NMPV allowing you to tune from android which would be down right awesome. Let me know if yall got any questions.

So much has been completed since I last posted. I mounted the new dash, rear hatch, front fenders, headlights, carpet, passenger seat, all the interior panels, door panels, sound system, rebuilt the transmission and... got about 50% through the engine. I bought a new dash from vintage dash and it is an almost perfect fit. It took a little longer to get installed than I wanted. I should have found all the bolt holes and cleaned them off prior to installing it, most of the time spent was locating the holes once the new dash was on the frame. I was able to reuse my old glass hatch gasket (I installed it a few years ago) and everything went together nicely. I have not (and dont plan on), running the wiring for the defroster. Please note, when installing the hatch, the hinges have to be mounted on the hatch first. After I got the wiring ran above the front horns I was able to get the fenders mounted. Every wire I have is tucked up under there to include the the wiring for the radiator fan. The only wires in the engine bay are those for the engine. I decided to go with a radio from Joying due to their unique design. The head unit and screen are separated by a ribbon cable allowing for easy mounting of both. I 3D printed up some mounting brackets to support the head unit and then the screen will mount onto the center counsel. It should make for easy removal of the center counsel as well as it wont be 10 pounds with the radio. Well the Transmission didnt have any problems prior but it was also behind a somewhat stock 5.3l so before sticking it behind a modified 6.0l I wanted to rebuild it with performance in mind. I bought a rebuild kit from Probuilt transmissions and went through the entire thing, powder coated the case and then re-assembled it... only time will tell if I screwed it up. I am waiting for 1x clip to arrive in the mail before I can close it up for good. Lastly, the engine. The rotating assembly is in, cam bearings are in, and the heads have been shipped off to Texas speed to be worked. I am using my 709 heads to bump compression near 10:1 and having them CNCed. I ordered Johnson lifters, CHE rocker upgrades, push rods, and a 228/232 112R cam to get the 6.0 to really wake up. Engine parts should be back in a week.