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walkerbk

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walkerbk last won the day on January 25 2020

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About walkerbk

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    Male
  • Location
    Spanaway, Washington
  • Interests
    Fast Cars

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  1. I used the 5/8 in bolt without cutting any notches or anything. I torqued it to 65ft lbs and never had any issues with it. I used the nylon lock nut and regular washers.
  2. Battery Tray I don’t think I ever uploaded the photos of the battery tray. I squared up the tray to fit the stock battery about 5in lower than stock. The battery will be secured front to back by the firewall and the new metal and I will just have to secure it from sliding into the engine compartment. They are not the prettiest welds but the outside will be covered up and the inside will be covered up by a battery. Patch Panels I had to weld a patch on the rear passenger side right behind the tire. The metal had rusted about a 6x10 patch in the outer skin and a 3x5 hole in the inner skin. I used the Tebco patch panel for this as well and again had problems with the fitment. It was about a 70% solution and took a lot of forming at the top to get it to match up. I am still not happy with the fitment but it can be covered with about 1/8” of bondo. I also while on the rear passenger side filled in the side marker light. I currently plan on utilizing some ¾” lights from Amazon to replace them while keeping a low-profile hidden look. I have two patches that had to be made for the dog leg. One very small one towards the very back by the rear tire and one larger one forward that goes forward to the union. I thought about cutting out this entire section to gain access to the metal behind for better prep but ended up not needing to as I used the Eastwood internal frame coating which allowed me to get very good penetration into the area along with the use of the rotisserie and compressed air to help direct the paint. I was able to complete the small patch and still have the larger patch to finish either later tonight or tomorrow. I still have to finish the other side marker and am going to weld up the antenna hole which should conclude my welding on the main body. I still have to repair the hood (large dent in the nose) and the hatch (small dent in the rear) plus some other things I find along the way. I plan on using Southern Polyurethane Coatings epoxy primer.
  3. Having done this before... do your self a favor and put the harness on the engine and get the general layout for how it will fit in the engine bay.
  4. Wow, it has been a long time. I got back from deployment to a new kid crawling while COVID was all just getting started. Even with everything being shut down across the country we Army folks are still hard at work leaving little time for play. I decided to build a rotisserie and put the car up in the air in order to remove the underbody coating, weld and paint. I had contemplated on building a rotisserie or making a roll over jig for a while and eventually decided that it was best to put it in a rotisserie as I could quickly turn the car both ways. I had 2x engine stands and was able to heighten then to mount the Datsun on them. I will say… getting the car up on the rotisserie was the scariest thing I have done in a while. I was using cinder blocks, pallets, jack stands and other material to get the car high enough to mount on the rotisserie and the car even fell one time from about 3ft up. The reinforced steel frame rails just bounced on the floor and then I started lifting it back up (luckily no damage) I was able to complete the underbody for the most part in primer and still have to do the paint. The best way I found to remove the old underbody coating was with an air needler for the majority and then a heat gun and scrapper for some of the harder to clean areas. Once scrapped clean, the remaining was wiped clean with mineral spirits to get clean paint in most areas. The hidden areas were coated with the Eastwood internal frame coating (green for first coat, black for second coat), and then the visible areas were coated with the water cure Mastercoat. I have never used POR-15 or rust bullet but I really like the Mastercoat paint. It is a little more costly but if it stays and does its job, its money well spent. I then turned my attention to the rust on the body. I repainted the car about 7 years ago an found the rear corners by the bumpers, lower rear quarter panels, and the lower dog legs to be rusted out. Being the great paint and body guy that I am, I shoved fiberglass bondo in the rust and painted over it all. Well, this time around I am doing it right (or at least better). I have been able to patch the fresh air vent along with repairing one of the lower dog legs, the battery tray (I did end up lowering it) and the rear corners. While welding, I utilized the Eastwood inner fender coating system to coat behind the welds as it is high in zinc. The dog leg was simple being an almost flat piece of metal with a slight bend but the rear corners were a pain. The rear passenger corner had rusted through both layers of steel which took a little extra time to repair. I utilized the tabco repair panels which at times I felt were made for a different car. They took a lot of beating and work to get them to fit. On top of the rear corners being a pain, the lower valance (below the tail lights) was bent up pretty bad as my brother-in-law wrecked the car and the rear end hit the ground hard. It took a lot of bending and hammering but I think I got it close enough to work with. I do feel like the lower valance is made of super thin metal and is flimsy as tin foil but I don’t know how to reinforce it. I still have a few rust spots to repair at which time I am going to finish the underbody paint and then move to sanding the body for primer.
  5. The problem i ran into witha stock shifter was the stock cable was to short. I had to mount the shifter in the trans tunnel to make it reach and it never felt right. I have a c5 shifter.
  6. I use a product called master coat. I cant speak to how well their paints work (same kind as por15) but their metel prep has zinc phosphate in it which is embedded in the metal as the rust is converted (or so they say) I wiped my engine bay down and left it for a year in Washington state (very moist) and didn't have any issues. I believe they also say to wipe it off with water prior to paint but the extra protection from the zinc prevents flash rust. The reason you need to wipe it down with water is to rinse the acid out and to neutralize it. Water is ph neutral, dont know about acetone.
  7. looks good but it sounded like your differential was bouncing all over the place. every time you acc/brake you can hear it bang.
  8. Its the same as the CX Racing ones. I bought some BC coilovers because I know they can be rebuilt in the future and they arent that much more. Who knows what kind of support your going to get for the CX racing ones down the road.
  9. looks good. simple but probably much better than what was there. I hate how the stock battery tray sits 3in higher than it ever should have.
  10. Sounds like your master cylinder lost its prime. If one of your reservoirs went dry, you got some air in the master and you cant get that out by bleeding it at the brakes. You probably need to pull it off and bleed the master cylinder. After the master cylinder is bled, bleed the 4 corners.
  11. The Bad Dog Subframe Connectors will be to short since it is a 2+2. I changed my frame rails out with 1x3 steel tube. The 1x3 is actually shallower than the original frame rails so depending on your power levels, 2x3 might even be a good idea.
  12. I have my LS swap with 3in exhaust ran under/beside the diff and it does cut down on the ground clearance but it works. you might try oval tubing or flattening the tubing right where it runs under the diff.
  13. I never understood why people complain about the old Datsun wiring that doesnt have relays and then when people replace the wiring, they use a harness without relays. That is a very nice relay board. I am planning on linking a relay board into the speedway motor wiring harness (very similar to all the other universal ones but good reviews).
  14. didnt realize you were not in the states. makes sense then.
  15. never heard of them but they sound to be the same as the BC coilover. If you dont want to spend the money on the BC coilover ones, buy the CR Racing ones. They are again, a knock off version of the BC Coilovers but are around $800 and have been around a little longer than D2 Racing. The spring rate does seem a little high. I believe the aluminum construction they are talking about is the threaded tube. The main body is steel as you cannot weld aluminum to steel (you can braze but it is much weaker).
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