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walkerbk last won the day on January 25

walkerbk had the most liked content!

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About walkerbk

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    Stephenville, TX

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  1. I never understood why people complain about the old Datsun wiring that doesnt have relays and then when people replace the wiring, they use a harness without relays. That is a very nice relay board. I am planning on linking a relay board into the speedway motor wiring harness (very similar to all the other universal ones but good reviews).
  2. didnt realize you were not in the states. makes sense then.
  3. never heard of them but they sound to be the same as the BC coilover. If you dont want to spend the money on the BC coilover ones, buy the CR Racing ones. They are again, a knock off version of the BC Coilovers but are around $800 and have been around a little longer than D2 Racing. The spring rate does seem a little high. I believe the aluminum construction they are talking about is the threaded tube. The main body is steel as you cannot weld aluminum to steel (you can braze but it is much weaker).
  4. Those look very nice and the price is very reasonable. To bad I already have the rocket bunny kit.
  5. your build looks good. I was going to lower my battery on my build too. you mind posting some more photos of the battery tray?
  6. the fuel being sucked up the feed tube will be under vacuum since it is before the fuel pump (you did say external fuel pump right). the return line will be pressurized but that is only due to flow restriction of the line (i.e. the line is the only thing holding the fuel back which creates pressure). The return line shouldnt be more than 10-15psi at idle which is when it will be its highest. I say replace those old crusty lines with some new f.i. rated fuel line from the parts store and you should be good (you could keep the current lines too).
  7. ride height very much so effects the brake setup. longitudinal load transfer takes place when you apply brakes... that is, weight from the back of the car shifts to the front of the car. This transfer of weight is based on the reduction in speed in the form of -g's, the wheel base of the vehicle, and the height of the center of gravity. The suspension plays into this calculation because the center of gravity is changed with the suspension. from my research, the center of gravity should be about 3/4 the way up up the block.
  8. Thats exactly what I am thinking about doing. I can then route my electrical far enough above the battery it wont be an issue or I can pass them behind the fender to clean up the engine bay. Thanks for the photos.
  9. If you get lucky, you can buy a electric power steering (EPS) unit out of a 2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Without ABS) and connect it to your VSS. Most EPS units get the speed signal via CAN BUS but the 06-11 Yaris without ABS received a standard VSS which allows for it to easily be swapped into other vehicles (supposedly). I bought a unit a few years ago but havent installed it yet as Im in the middle of my own rebuild... Ill let you know how it goes in a few years. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1848775-35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html
  10. Im actually writing a 30+ page paper on the math right now which means I cant share the paper until i turn it in or it will get flagged for plagiarism but the basis is this: Longitudinal load transfer = Acceleration (g's) x Weight (lb) x (CG Height (inches) / Wheel base (inches)). this will give the amount of weight that is transferred under certain braking conditions. most drivers can only control a car around -.7 g's. This calculates the load transfer from the rear to the front which then allows for the brake bias to be calculated (the purpose of the paper). Whenever I am done with the paper, i will post the whole math problem but, the lower the center of gravity, the less weight is transferred. This is not going to be a full track car, just a weekend racer. part of my goal is to lower the CG the other is to just make more room in the engine bay. I dont like how much room is lost.
  11. Im working the math on the effects of lowering the 40lb battery 6in should result in around 10ft shorter braking distance due to less longitudinal weight transfer. As for the side to side weight transfer, im not sure but it would for certain be less. I know an alternative would be to replace the battery with a smaller unit and I am for sure going to do so but Im thinking that I will still build the battery compartment for the original size battery.
  12. I have been researching replacing the body harness as I already did a LS swap and gunked up the wiring and Im now going back through and doing the body work. I believe the hardest part of swapping the wiring as stated is the wiper system. As such I kept the original wiper wires and will have to only provide a ground and a 12v switched. The second hardest I believe is everything else in the column (lights, starter...) but there are several you tube videos on that. From watching you tube videos, I believe it is easier to do a complete harness rebuild when conducting a swap than it is to integrate your gauges and engine harness.
  13. My battery tray area is rusted and needs to be replaced. I have removed the old battery tray and started thinking about mounting the battery lower than before. My thought is towards lowering the vehicle center of gravity as the lower, the better braking and suspension will work. Could I cut out the body right below the battery tray and lower the battery mounting location? making a U for the battery to sit in maybe about 6in deeper than the stock location.
  14. I utilized the 4l60e in my LS swap and also had fitment issues but on a much lower scale than you currently have. I had to cut the ears off the original transmission mount and hammer the area in by the shift solenoid on the passenger side. I then later on found out that my transmission cooler lines were up against the body which ultimately resulted in their failure (every time the engine torqued over they slammed into the transmission tunnel). That being said, the 4l60e is still a smaller transmission that can be built to handle the amount of power the LS engine will be putting out. There are three factors that kill the transmissions, h.p, torque, and vehicle weight. Since the 280z is so much lighter than most cars out there, the 4l60e is more reliable. The ECU is going to be sent off any ways since you will have to get VATS removed and such. swapping the transmissions within the tune is super simple (I dont even think people would charge for it because they should already have a 4l60e base tune). If you need help with the wiring check this site out. http://lt1swap.com/index.htm
  15. That is the exact thing that I did. finished a LS Swap, didnt like how the wiring and body turned out and am going back and redoing it.
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