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About LooseRocks

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  1. You could remove the hub. It's a PITA but it might make the work easier. Also give you a chance to do a re-lube on the bearings.
  2. I might try to source an aluminum wheel spacer for the large aluminum ring. The smaller spacer could be made from bar stock.
  3. '98 to '08 Subaru Forester. I was thinking you could use a longer bolt for the bolts that hold the brake rotor onto the front hub. This longer bolt could hold a ??? mm thick aluminum ring which would have the screw holes for the tone ring. The thickness of the aluminum ring could make up for spacing between the tone ring and where the sensor poked through the brake dust cover. The entire kit could be: Source your own Forester ring PN#??? Source your own sensor PN#??? Two large aluminum spacer ring with four or five holes matching the bolt patter to hold the rotor to the hub. Four or five longer bolts to mount the large aluminum ring and clamp the disc brake to the hub. Five screws to go trough the aluminum ring to mount the tone ring. Sourced from Subaru. Two small aluminum spacer with a hole for sensor and a threaded hole for sensor screw. The sensor goes through the brake cover into the large hole in aluminum spacer. The screw to mount the sensor goes through the sensor mounting hole, through the brake cover and into a threaded hole in the small aluminum spacer. It would minimize the custom parts to two aluminum rings and two small aluminum spacer. That was what I was planning. But if I could just buy such a kit my life would be easier.
  4. I was thinking something like this mounted to the back of the hub so the mounting for the sensor could be simple. It could be held in place on the brake cover backing plate with a hole for the sensor and one for a screw.
  5. If I re-tap it and it works I know it's just going to be loose/weak. And it being one of two bolt that is responsible for holding the front of the rear LCA to the car I just didn't feel good about that. After going back and forth in my head about a million times I decided to cut that nut out. I went in from the top (thanks granny). The captive nut measured out to about 20 mm (.78"). I could have put in a thin wall M10 (M14 hole) insert but thin wall are not recommended for high strength application. That and I would have been left with about 3/32 of steel after running a tap. Not ideal. After taking in some measurements from below and figuring out where the window for the nut should be I marked my opening and said my prayers. Pretty much hit the opening dead on. The captive nut is made of an extremely hard material. It took couple hours of quality time with a demel to get it gone. I probably could have just enlarged the hole in the captive nut and just welded the new nut to the top. There was enough room. Maybe should of thought of that before I started hacking away. Probably better this way anyways. If you're going to go nine yards might as well take that last step.
  6. Would be interested in one for 4 lug front hub with tone rings/sensor. Would use a 5 lug if I had to. I was looking at mounting a tone ring from a Subaru Forester onto a hub. The ring is 90 degrees so the pickup could potentially be mounted to the dust cover. It would probably play nicer with a 5 lug.
  7. Platinum Racing Product out of Australia. https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/
  8. I spent a little bit of time looking to see if there was already information/image available for that area of the chassis. So far no luck. If the chase thing doesn't work out (which I don't think it will) I was going to go M12 but I think I'm just going to fill/drill/tap instead.
  9. I guess I'll try chasing it first. If that fails I might just do an M12x1.25. The drill hole for that is .425" so there should be enough meat there for that.
  10. I’m in the process of disassembly. I found that there were only 3 bolts installed for the brace for the front of the rear LCAs/diff support. After removing the brace, I found the hole that was missing the bolt actually had one in it. It was just missing the head. I drilled the bolt, heated it and was able to extract it. Awesome! Unfortunately, it seems the reason for it breaking off in the first place was it was badly galled or cross threaded. It probably broke off being inserted and who ever was doing the work deemed three bolts good/safe enough. Now I’m in the process of trying to figure out what to do to remedy this situation. I could just re-chase it but the damage on the left over nub looks to me that the hole is damage well beyond using that as the solution. The other “easy” option is to put a key locking threaded insert into that hole. The thin wall threaded insert requires an M14x1.5 hole (12.8 mm drill size, ~.5”). My question is, is there enough meat in the chassis (likely a captive nut) in that location for a hole that size? The “hard” solution would be to fill the hole with a weld, drill it and re-tap. This is probably outside of my comfort zone.
  11. The plastic/rubber collar that sits on the end of the pivot rod inside the chassis body. Where can I get one for a 1971 240Z?
  12. There's a pretty good one at Francisco Gutierrez Youtube page. No real details but it shows placement at about 1:11. I''m going to do the same but place it a little bit lower, closer to the fill and more forward. That should avoid both the fill and the sender.
  13. Looks like it. OEM switch drives relay switching circuit. Relay supplies high current to lights. You just have to make sure that it will work with what's available on your OEM harness/multi-function switch. On the '71 240Z the power is source from the fuse panel and the multi-function switch provides the ground for either the high or low beam. If that's the case with the 75 280Z, then the relay circuit that you're connecting to the multi-function switch needs to be ground activated.
  14. Harness upgrade with relays. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/
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