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LooseRocks

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About LooseRocks

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  1. Cal, it looks like he turned the 240z hub and pressed the ring on. The upright also looks like it's 240z. Hey manninen, have you spun it and put a scope on the sensor output? Curious to see if your pickup is seeing the tone ring.
  2. Cut your spacer to the same oval shape of the foot plate of the brace. Coat the spacer with a little primer and enamel. Put it between the foot plate and the bracket holding the bushing. Even if you run into a little galvanic corrosion it won't be your frame rail. In my raised Outback, I've have 1" think aluminum spacers between the strut top and the body and between the rear suspension stabilizer brace and the body for over 10 years. There's no paint on the spacers. They do sit on the factory paint that comes on the body and braces (shiny black enamel). It's my DD and my snowmobile for skiing. Granted it lives in Norther CA but So far no rust.
  3. Can you measure the tooth height on that tone ring? Thanks.
  4. FR4 is basically PCB glass. Really dense, strong and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. Not sure how the properties compare to what your panel provider uses.
  5. Those of you that are running BBK: What BBK are you using? Which wheels did you go with (size and offset)? What size tire are you running? I'm going to switch to T3 300 mm BBK front and 290 mm BBK rear. I'm looking at TE37V 17x8.5, 5x114.3, 0ffset -6. There's like zero info for what the backspacing or wheel profiles to determine if they will work. I like them but I'm not committed to this wheel choice. What others would be a fit? RSW-8SRT 17.x85 5x114.3 offset -6, Rota RKR offset -10, ... Suggestions?
  6. From their site (typo and all): "Front and rear mounting faces are in the exact same postion as the factory 240Z so no special offsets are required to run these."
  7. I'm going with you on the T3 hubs. I'm hoping you get to the end on this. It'll definitely save me a bit of noddling.
  8. Did you cross over to the cold side in the tunnel? Or did you come out of the tunnel where the OEM ones come out and then routed them over. I'm in the process of installing new hard lines from the back to the front. The plan is to use the OEM brackets with new lines (enlarge the rubber mounts). I was thinking I would pop out of the tunnel where the OEM lines come out then bend them up and over to the cold side along the fire wall. Terminate them to a pair AN bulkhead connectors at a custom bracket mounted to the firewall below the hood latch just to the driver's side. From there I could make the connection to the engine with soft lines. I'm not oppose to going to the last OEM bracket in the tunnel then crossing to the center or driver's side in the tunnel and coming out to that bracket. Maybe located the bracket lower on the firewall. Just trying to get some ideas about what other people are doing.
  9. The outboard face is 8 mm from OE which means the center is 4 mm out. Will that require new brake caliper mounting brackets that allow for the 4mm offset? I suppose some spacers and longer caliper mounting bolts might work if having the caliper 4 mm away does not cause some weird stress issue for the caliper mounting brackets. Might be wheel fitment issues for those that have wheels with minimal caliper clearance. With no basis for a single grain of truth (not ME or have run any CAD stress sim) I can't imagine 4 mm being an issue for too much added stress on the caliper mounting brackets. The wheel fitment might be the only stopper for people that already have their wheel fitment dialed with their current setup. Would love to have over hub rotors though. If you can figure out a formula that works with T3 current 300 MM BBK that would be awesome. I don't really understand why the don't just make a deeper hat option so it can go over the hub.
  10. What exactly do you mean by "inboard face"? The face in contact with the hub?
  11. How did you route your fuel lines? Did you cross over in the tunnel to the driver’s side? When you came out of the tunnel how/where did you terminate the lines before hooking to the engine (bracket on firewall, regulator on firewall, somewhere else)?
  12. Grannas Racing: https://www.grannasracing.com/pages/black-friday-sale It's mostly Supra stuff but T56 + 2J bells housing applies for those wanting to spend a boatload of moneys.
  13. I would have gone that way but only available in 4x114.3. It's going to be either Silvermine or T3.
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