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About LooseRocks

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  1. From their site (typo and all): "Front and rear mounting faces are in the exact same postion as the factory 240Z so no special offsets are required to run these."
  2. I'm going with you on the T3 hubs. I'm hoping you get to the end on this. It'll definitely save me a bit of noddling.
  3. Did you cross over to the cold side in the tunnel? Or did you come out of the tunnel where the OEM ones come out and then routed them over. I'm in the process of installing new hard lines from the back to the front. The plan is to use the OEM brackets with new lines (enlarge the rubber mounts). I was thinking I would pop out of the tunnel where the OEM lines come out then bend them up and over to the cold side along the fire wall. Terminate them to a pair AN bulkhead connectors at a custom bracket mounted to the firewall below the hood latch just to the driver's side. From there I could make the connection to the engine with soft lines. I'm not oppose to going to the last OEM bracket in the tunnel then crossing to the center or driver's side in the tunnel and coming out to that bracket. Maybe located the bracket lower on the firewall. Just trying to get some ideas about what other people are doing.
  4. The outboard face is 8 mm from OE which means the center is 4 mm out. Will that require new brake caliper mounting brackets that allow for the 4mm offset? I suppose some spacers and longer caliper mounting bolts might work if having the caliper 4 mm away does not cause some weird stress issue for the caliper mounting brackets. Might be wheel fitment issues for those that have wheels with minimal caliper clearance. With no basis for a single grain of truth (not ME or have run any CAD stress sim) I can't imagine 4 mm being an issue for too much added stress on the caliper mounting brackets. The wheel fitment might be the only stopper for people that already have their wheel fitment dialed with their current setup. Would love to have over hub rotors though. If you can figure out a formula that works with T3 current 300 MM BBK that would be awesome. I don't really understand why the don't just make a deeper hat option so it can go over the hub.
  5. What exactly do you mean by "inboard face"? The face in contact with the hub?
  6. How did you route your fuel lines? Did you cross over in the tunnel to the driver’s side? When you came out of the tunnel how/where did you terminate the lines before hooking to the engine (bracket on firewall, regulator on firewall, somewhere else)?
  7. Grannas Racing: https://www.grannasracing.com/pages/black-friday-sale It's mostly Supra stuff but T56 + 2J bells housing applies for those wanting to spend a boatload of moneys.
  8. I would have gone that way but only available in 4x114.3. It's going to be either Silvermine or T3.
  9. I don't think T3 has a rear brake solution that will work for 15" wheels. Silvermine has fronts and rears that work for 15" wheels. I'm sure it's the same as Z-car in that only certain 15" or 16" wheels are a fit. I'm not sure if you can get fitment template from either Z-car or Silvermine. T3 fronts only are $995. No rears for 15. Silvermine fronts are $685. Silvermine rears are $685. Silvermine rears+parking are ~$1100. Z-car are $3000 for the set + $300 for parking (only 4x114.3) (cost are from today's date 11/25/19)
  10. Something like: https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p31/Rear_Suspension_Conversion.html For a lot less work they also have: https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p29/Rear_Tubular_Strut_Brace.html I have no affiliation with them nor have I used these products. The quality of their products looks decent though.
  11. Do you think that this setup would work in a 4 lug hub?
  12. T3 is 4x114.3 or 5x114.3. Oops wrong info. That's the hub blot spacing
  13. I think that you've already done the hard part. i don't see an issue with mounting the sensor. I was planning on doing a sandwich type mount on the OEM backing plate. I'm probably going to start with a 10 mm wheel spacer. I have a friend that can turn it down for me as needed.
  14. I don't have access/skills for printing something like that. I was thinking of using a 5 mm wheel spacer. How thick did you make your spacer?
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