emaster

My pilot bushing wont fit in my crankshaft, I used a measuring tool and it is actually about 0.2 - 0.3 mm bigger than the hole and the hold one. my local schucks auto parts store said that the bushing they sold me is the same one that nissan has used until 2005. btw its a 78 280z that I am working in. Whenever I start to tap it in with my rubber mallet it starts to go in diagonally, and then when I get it out the side is scratched. I just went through my third. what do I do!?

Does anyone know where I can get some flywheel bolts for my 78 280z? or an estimated cost? getting them for 30$ from ebay sounds a little too pricey

Where do I get some of these? Do they usually come with the flywheel?

oh and I just tried using an impact wrench and the bolt didnt move

not on me but I can get one... I justt need to know which one to get

What socket should I use? It is bigger than 1 inch...

I am trying to remove the flywheel in my car, and but the flywheel turns when I try to torque the bolts off. Should I take off the radiator and use a socket to hold the crankshaft in place while I unbolt the flywheel?

Oh, there is a vacuum tube coming out of the firewall right above the radiator hoses that are going to the heater, and it just sticks out and doesnt lead anywhere. If thats the problem, than I need to get another hose and figure out exactly where that is going.

As best as I can tell, the lever is mechanical I took apart the floor console on the passenger side and i made sure that all the levers work. I didn't get a look at everything from the lever, but I thought it was mechanical after looking at it. I actually dont know what a shock tower is. How about I take some pics of my engine in the morning from different angles, and you circle what I'm looking for? ha ha I = noob

alright my 280z problems is having problems with the heater. There is no leaking, but no heat is coming out. I removed the floor panel on the passenger side and the mechanics in turning the levers is working. When I turn the heat on the correct door opens, but still no heat. I opened the hood of the car and felt the radiator, hot. I put my hands on the radiator hoses that were going to the heater, and noticed that the hose going to the heater was warm, but the one coming from the heater didn't have any heat or pressure in it at all. What do you guys think?

what is an r200?

Maybe more people would tell me what I want to hear if I show some better pics?

yes, it would have to be that. The previous owner kinda lied about the condition of the drivetrain, it seems that the differential AND the clutch are bad when the whole drivetrain was supposed to be perfect.... lol

I am considering parting out a 1978 280z that I have. I bought as a project and the previous owner gave me false info on the condition of the car, and I realize it is probably not worth the effort anymore, and this is why There is a problem with the body on the passenger side, tire looks like it will hit the flare (since I bought new tires and they have more tread and should hit it) the clutch is bad, along with the differential. Everything else is in working order (besides the cracked dash). So my question is, how much should I be able to get from parting this out? The engine is in perfect condition, the tranny is good, but the differential and the clutch isn't good. Any estimates? (if you want a certain part, you can just name your price here and if I do end up parting it you can have it)

thanks guys I knew the Z forum would come through for me!

yeah, I use the chilton manual. I have it in kinda right, perhaps the return spring goes on the other side of the shoes? so behind the shoes?

I have a 1978 datsun 280z, and I am assembling new shoes on it, and I am encountering a pretty big problem. When the wheels turn, the rotor hits the return spring a little bit. Can anyone take pictures of their brakes for me? Maybe I assembled it wrong... I will put up pics of my brakes tomorrow. Thanks guys.

Okay, recently got an aftermarket fuel pump for my 280z, I installed it and it turned on, now when I put the key into the on position nothing happens, and I took off the hose that goes from the fuel filter to the injectors and nothing came out, I left the hose off and cranked the engine and still nothing came out, and the pump never turned on. My question is, Is it possible that a screen inside the tank of the engine got clogged and is preventing the fuel pump from getting any fuel, and thats why I dont hear it turn on?

alright I'll let you know in the next couple days, I am also putting down a concrete sidewalk on the side of the house. I am not sure exactly how to test the voltage on the fuel pump... I've never done anything like it, so I need a how-to for someone who is extremely dumb and knows no jargon lol, I have an ohm-meter (or thats how my dad calls it) and I have a battery charger with a couple different settings with different amount of amps. I dont think that getting the pressure gauge will do anything because at the moment its getting about 0 PSI I am suprised it ran that one time now that I took the line to the engine off... it trickles out after ab out 8 seconds of cranking it. I will replace the fuel pump because i am pretty sure that is bad now. But I will test it out with the voltage thing just to learn how to do it, is there a really good guide on doing it that I can find?

I checked the the line between the tank and the fuel pump, and followed the line to the fuel filter. Everything checked out fine, and before I put in some alcohol type stuff that they told me to put in at schucks. That stuff is supposed to take out any moisture and they said it would also clean out anything in the lines as well. That was a while ago and it still isnt working. I ordered a fuel pump online which will arrive in a few days and I will replace that and let you know how that goes. After that I need to fix the brakes, meaning replacing all the non-metal lines. Does anyone know what type of lines the 280z uses because its not all metal for the brakes. thanks guys

I never thought of checking for a kink! I wonder how that would happen lol. Should I try to take the line out and put water through it to check to see how well the flow is? yeah I haven't had time for those projects I put on for the next day, yesterday I checked for prices for fuel pumps at various part stores, 150$ from the store and 100 from ebay. I will be checking the fuel line and clearing stuff out to make sure the path is clear soon.

fuel injection is supposed to have a ton of pressure... a lot more than carburetors lol. I have worked with carbureted before, not fuel injected so I know that the problem is probably before the fuel filter. When I took the hose off the fuel filter, it took about 8 seconds for fuel to flow out, when its supposed to immediately shoot out fuel. So before investing in a fuel pump, I will be checking out the line between the tank and the pump tomorrow, along with checking out the rest of the fuel line. I know that sometimes there is a fuel filter in the gas tank, does my car have that?

By the way, how could I edit my first post?

I talked to my favorite guy at schucks, he told me it would be easier to take out the spark plugs and crank the engine then to pull of fuel injectors, and if vapor comes out of the piston then we know it is working. He told me to relieve pressure in the fuel system (following steps in my chilton repair manual) to do that. Than I put the key into the on position while someone in the back is listening to the fuel pump. I mentioned to him that the flap over the oxygen sensor module (i think thats what is called) with the air intake opens up, so I duct taped it shut for the time being. He told me I should use silicon sealant on it because if air got into that then the wrong amount of gas would spray and that would lead to the problem I have. Lastly I told him about a misaligned mark on the distributor, mentioning that I am not sure if I should turn it into place. I will use a timing light to calibrate it. I am putting in some isoheet into the fuel system to get rid of any mositure that was built up, I changed the gasoline because it was parked for 13 years so I figured the iso-heet is something else I should do. So what do you guys think of that plan?

Alright, we pulled off the hose that goes from the fuel filter to the engine, and it took about 8 seconds (while cranking the engine) for any fuel to come out of the filter. When it was all hooked up, the engine wouldnt start unless we sprayed starting fluid into the air intake behind the air filter. My father thinks that the fuel injectors aren't opening for some reason... I have not taken off a fuel injector yet. I will see if I can do that later.