Ferd/289

fixed

Had wrong wiring. I tried hipo firing order and she started fine.

How can i get the cam specs for my installed motorsports ford performance camshaft? I would like to know what the specs are. All i know now is vacuum at idle is 12 inches. Can inmeasure lift and duration without removing the heads? Ferd

Anyone know a good mechanic in trhe mckinney texas area to help me start my sbf. I am looking for a master mechanic who might come to my house and help me start my 289 sbf. I am stumped as per my other posts. thanks Ferd

I rebuilt the carb. Put a holley trick kit in, ie new needle valves, gaskets, floats look fine and adjusted good. Just trying to figure out why engine wont start. Timing seems good, checked firing order etc., geting spark. Thats why the only thing I can think of is big vacuujm leak so little atomized fuel mixture getting to cylinders. Stumped.

using a high performance cam thusly lowering vacuum to lets say 7 inches, wouold the use of a power valve 6.5 cause the smf engine to flood and not start? Also, can you get a valid vacuum reading by using a vaccum guage on a cranking ( but not running) engine?

Trying to start an engine sbf 289 with a double pumper Holley. I rebuilt the carb with a 6.5 power valve. I crank engine and it seems to ingnite fuel a tad bit, but cannot sustain any revs. Seems like its flooding out. I have checked, fuel to carb, spark, and dont see any vacuum leaks, valve movement seems ok.. Electric fuel pump pressure is just under 5 lbs, but fluctuates from under 5 to 0 back and forth while cranking. Holley carb float level is correct. - will engine with a high performance cam not start if power valve too high a rating, do I need a 2.5 or 3.5 power valve? - would car not start if electric fuel pump not quite maintaining 5-7 pressure? I would think car would start and then either run rough or die quickly, but engine wont fire up and rev. Ferd

Wondering why I cannot post in the cars for sale area. I have not been on the site for a while but my location is registered. Any thoughts? Ferd

thats what I was thinking. I have seen many guages on metal. I wired the guages in parallel ie the power wire goes from one guage to another. Then the ground wire goes from one guage to another ( ie shared). Also, the last guage on the dash powers the fuel pressure guage on the engine. I have the main battery supply to a fuse box(15 amp), and then supply wire from the fuse box to the guages, as I said above in parallel, and guages share the common ground wire. 15 amp fuse is what is blowing which should be plenty of amp protection. I am stumped but will recheck wiring again. Somehow I am getting this short soon as I turn ignition on. Without dash electrically connected, I can crank engine without problem therefore ignition wiring is ok. I will recheck but wonder if my wiring design itself is bad. Ferd

I am getting a short circuit since my guages are mounted on aluminum. There is continuity from guage encasements to the dash so blown fuse. I need to isolate the guages, or mount them differently in some way not to cause a short. I can mount them on wood but would rather not. Anyone mount guages on metal and able to isolate them from the metal dash. Here are some pics; [src= [src= [src=

Wet cell batteries emit gases. I am guessing its dangerous to have a wet cell mounted inside the car. Must I use a gel cell (dry cell) battery if I use the battery intside the car? Other options? Ferd

I think my clutch fork is the type that is pulled forward ( towards fornt of car) and thusly pushes throwout coller into the pressure plate fingers to release clutch. I will look through the fork opening tomorrow. I may have disconnected the fork by pulling on it 'outwards tothe side of the car. Ouch! Can I remove the fork without removing bellhousing?