Ferd/289

fixed

Had wrong wiring. I tried hipo firing order and she started fine.

How can i get the cam specs for my installed motorsports ford performance camshaft? I would like to know what the specs are. All i know now is vacuum at idle is 12 inches. Can inmeasure lift and duration without removing the heads? Ferd

Anyone know a good mechanic in trhe mckinney texas area to help me start my sbf. I am looking for a master mechanic who might come to my house and help me start my 289 sbf. I am stumped as per my other posts. thanks Ferd

I rebuilt the carb. Put a holley trick kit in, ie new needle valves, gaskets, floats look fine and adjusted good. Just trying to figure out why engine wont start. Timing seems good, checked firing order etc., geting spark. Thats why the only thing I can think of is big vacuujm leak so little atomized fuel mixture getting to cylinders. Stumped.

using a high performance cam thusly lowering vacuum to lets say 7 inches, wouold the use of a power valve 6.5 cause the smf engine to flood and not start? Also, can you get a valid vacuum reading by using a vaccum guage on a cranking ( but not running) engine?

Trying to start an engine sbf 289 with a double pumper Holley. I rebuilt the carb with a 6.5 power valve. I crank engine and it seems to ingnite fuel a tad bit, but cannot sustain any revs. Seems like its flooding out. I have checked, fuel to carb, spark, and dont see any vacuum leaks, valve movement seems ok.. Electric fuel pump pressure is just under 5 lbs, but fluctuates from under 5 to 0 back and forth while cranking. Holley carb float level is correct. - will engine with a high performance cam not start if power valve too high a rating, do I need a 2.5 or 3.5 power valve? - would car not start if electric fuel pump not quite maintaining 5-7 pressure? I would think car would start and then either run rough or die quickly, but engine wont fire up and rev. Ferd

Wondering why I cannot post in the cars for sale area. I have not been on the site for a while but my location is registered. Any thoughts? Ferd

thats what I was thinking. I have seen many guages on metal. I wired the guages in parallel ie the power wire goes from one guage to another. Then the ground wire goes from one guage to another ( ie shared). Also, the last guage on the dash powers the fuel pressure guage on the engine. I have the main battery supply to a fuse box(15 amp), and then supply wire from the fuse box to the guages, as I said above in parallel, and guages share the common ground wire. 15 amp fuse is what is blowing which should be plenty of amp protection. I am stumped but will recheck wiring again. Somehow I am getting this short soon as I turn ignition on. Without dash electrically connected, I can crank engine without problem therefore ignition wiring is ok. I will recheck but wonder if my wiring design itself is bad. Ferd

I am getting a short circuit since my guages are mounted on aluminum. There is continuity from guage encasements to the dash so blown fuse. I need to isolate the guages, or mount them differently in some way not to cause a short. I can mount them on wood but would rather not. Anyone mount guages on metal and able to isolate them from the metal dash. Here are some pics; [src= [src= [src=

Wet cell batteries emit gases. I am guessing its dangerous to have a wet cell mounted inside the car. Must I use a gel cell (dry cell) battery if I use the battery intside the car? Other options? Ferd

I think my clutch fork is the type that is pulled forward ( towards fornt of car) and thusly pushes throwout coller into the pressure plate fingers to release clutch. I will look through the fork opening tomorrow. I may have disconnected the fork by pulling on it 'outwards tothe side of the car. Ouch! Can I remove the fork without removing bellhousing?

Thanks for the responses. Someone asked about my engine, its a SBF/289. I have not worked on the car this week, but now I think I have the slave in backwards since it pushes the fork foward ( towards front of car) which would move TOB towards rear of car which I think is backwards. I have never worked on clutches myself before as I think you can tell. Ferd

Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot. The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging. My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage? BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder? When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel. Ferd

sorry about the spelling..long day good thought about needing a jack that gets that high. I am specifically thinking about tranny work. Ferd

I would like something more 'comfortable' when under a car working. Dont want a full car lift. anyone wirk work with these large type jack stands? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924

nice, more pics if you can muster Thanks Ferd

I am replacing an outside mirror, glass only, to the outside rear view frame. The original had a white sticky flexible putty holding the glass in place on a plastic backboard. To replace the mirror( "objects may seem closer") I am using rtv silicon clear sealer/ adhesive permatex brand in the tube. I am hoping the glass insert will not fall out, $35. Anyone use this product to hold glass to plastic for outside useage? Ferd

I figured that they cost a lot. Where is a place to get less costly 1500 and 3000 wet and dry sp? Local paint supply shop? Ferd

I was in a paint shop today and noticed 3M 'finishing discs' that are used on orbital sanders with hook and eye attachment. They felt like a smooth plastic on the surface and I was wondering how they are used. Ferd

FWIW..there is excellent tech support on 'twinturbo.net'. I own 280z and z32 I love this url but for help on maintaining the z32 there are several other urls with much more experience on Z32's.

z32 part out prices is usually 1-$2k. If you can it for 300 bucks you can go into the parts business.