icapture

cut that Sh|t. I leveled out my Z and she look 1000 times better. edit: I like how sh (exlimation point) t gets edited.

I know that variety is the spice of life. But I just threw up a little.

I knew it! Damn I'm good. haha. The XXR's look really good. I love how they have that deep 3" step lip. But I like how the spokes of the rewinds look like Watanabe's. The spokes on the XXR's look a little fat IMO, almost like they've been squished in there. Not saying they dont look sexy as hell, especially when you slam a small car on them, just not the look I'm going for. If a company made a wheel with the spoke design of the rewinds and the lip of the XXR I would be ALL over it. Too bad. Rewinds: XXR's: So, my question remains. Anyone have pics of a white Z with 16 inch gold Konig rewinds?

are those Konig rewinds? They look like XXR 513's

yes sir

When the wheels are off the car, and I am turning the hubs by hand, should I not feel or hear the teeth of the gearing touch at all? I recently cleaned and painted my differential and upon reassembly I can really hear the teeth touching eachother. I was wondering if this was ok or if I should take it to a differential shop and have it looked at.

Did you buy the replica's from Sonic Motorsports?

Hey guys. Normally I would photoshop something onto my Z, but since it was stolen that is not possible at the moment. So I was wondering if anyone had a picture of a white Z with 16" gold rewinds on it. For the longest time I thought I was gonna pick up a pair of gold XXR 513's, but ever since I saw the rewinds I knew it was the wheel for me. Thanks a ton. Adam

Hey guys. Im in the process of doing the Rustoleum roll on paint job to my Z and I am wanting to remove the rear and side windows. I know I could just tape around the rubber seals, but I will be eventually stripping the car and getting it media blasted, so I'm gonna have to figure it out eventually. Plus removing the rear window will also help me sanding the rear hatch. For whatever reason the paint sands different on the hatch compared to the rest of the car. As for the rear windows I have removed the screws but its not budging. Is there some type of glue in there that needs to be heated up in order to remove the window? As for the rear window. What do I have to do to take it out? Do I have to remove the chrome inserts first? We just pushed on my front windshield and it just popped right out. But the same doesnt work for my rear window.

haha, i am in the process of doing a cheapo white Rustoleum job as well. Question. What did you do to paint the jams? Especially by the rear hatch mounting points and doors? Did you just use Rustoleum spray paint? I would imagine getting in there with a roller would be pretty difficult. Did you just use a 1 to 1 mixture of Rustoleum and thinner? Any chance to get a close up picture of the paint? Car looks great man.

I would like to see some pics if you decide to install them. A company here in California makes a bunch of Bride replica seats and they make a replica of this particular model and I was thinking about buying a pair.

Hey Jim, I am curious how the vinyl paint has stood up to the constant bending of the material due to getting in and out of the car. I painted the back and sides of my Cherokee seats with duplicolor vinyl paint and the paint started flaking off the sides of the seats immediately. In addition to the paint flaking off the seats the area on the center arm rest where my elbow rests has also started flaking. So yes the paint looks good on parts that don't bend, but anything that bends or folds cant withstand Duplicolor, even if you sand it first. Which I did.

Hey guys. Ive sanded down my Z preparing it for paint. I am looking to make the body as straight and smooth as possible. The car has had a ton of paint jobs. I think I counted 8 different colors on the car not including all the primer layers. Where there was rock chips or cracks in the paint I sanded all the way to the sheet metal. So when I run my hand over these little divots I can feel a slight inconsistency. So I was wondering, should I be covering the entire car with a very thin layer of body filler then use a sanding block to sand most of the filler off? Or should I spray a few layers of filler primer over the entire car and then block it?

Hey guys. So Ive welded up all the holes and now its time to start smoothing out the body and prep it for paint. Now I know there is a right way and a...not so right way to prep a car for paint. The right way is to sand it down to bare metal, prime, and paint. But my car has about 4 coats of paint on it already and although I could strip all the paint off I've decided that I don't want to invest that kind of time into the Z and have the car off the road for that long. Instead I would rather just rough up the entire car, apply body filler where needed, and give the car a single stage paint job (white.) My driver side door has a good size patch of bondo that I found when i was sanding the rivet holes along the side of the car. I started exploring with my sander to find where the bondo ends. So as you can see in the picture there are many little indentations. My question is can I apply bondo to just these spots? Or does the entire door have to be sanded to the metal, then apply bondo?

Fixed gears, jeans cut into shorts, and ray bans are "hipster" - blogs, not so much. The fact that there are blogs devoted to economics and foreign policy tells me its not "hipster"