dvorak

So I bought this handbrake cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151373753818 but for some reason the cable doesn't fit the bracket on one side at the wheel end. The hole in the bracket is too big and the stop on the cable sleeve doesn't keep it in place. http://www.spannerhead.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/rear_subframe_area.jpg the part in the bottom middle of that picture (not my pic, just one off the net) any suggestions or ideas? Know what they are actually called and where I can get one?

Car is '73 240z but with L28 and 5-speed tranny I bought the car a while ago and have been slowly working on it. Haven't truly driven it yet, just twice around the block at like 10MPH.

Sorry for taking so long, with work I really don't get much time to work on the Z, but here's some updates. I replaced the MC with a new one that came with the car. I properly bench bled it. Properly bled each brake line with someone pressing the pedal. I would have them hold the pedal down, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let off the pedal, repeat. I've found out that the block with the "Brake Line Pressure Differential Warning Light Switch" is leaking, but only when force is applied to the brakes. seems like it's leaking from one of the two ports on the bottom where the MC connects. When I start the car, the brake pedal goes straight to the floor, but if I pump it, it builds pressure and gets firmer. If I let it run for a a couple seconds after that all pressure is lost and the pedal goes straight to the floor. Also found a plug unplugged and the "brake warning" light on the dash now comes on when I press the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor. When I pump them and the pedal gets stiffer, the light doesn't come on.

Hi everyone, I've just taken ownership of a '73 240Z and have started restoring it. I've run into one problem so far though. I can't get the brakes to fully work. I've changed out the rear wheel cylinders due to the old ones being leaky, and some new hard lines in to them. I pulled the MC and thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't done a full proper bench bleed, but I have used a vacuum bleeder on the the MC trying to get most of the air out. also used the vacuum bleeder on wheel bleeders and got the air out of the lines. However i'm still not getting any braking force. With the engine off the pedal is hard to push. when i start it the pedal goes to the floor with almost no resistance. I have to then pump the pedal to get any braking force.