Newoldschool

Hey guys, I got in an accident about a month ago, and my '71 240Z was totaled (pic attached). I just [finally] got my insurance payout, and am in the market for a new car. I would really really like a RHD 240Z. I'm realy into Datsuns, long time enthusiast, worked at a Z shop in school, and really put a lot of effort and love into my Z. The car will be both brought to car shows / meets and autocrossed and raced / track days at Leguna Seca. I was driving the yellow one around at the last Car Week in Monterrey and turned a LOT of heads- I can only imagine what a RHD would do. Would love to find a project- I care about a straight body, clean frame, clean title, and low rust. Don't really care about the paint, motors, transmission, diff, seats or door panels. Hopefully someone can help a fellow out!

Hoping to find a JDM NISSAN valve cover for a reasonable price. Doesn't need to look pretty, planning on getting it powder coated. Willing to pay a reasonable amount more for an actual JDM cover, but willing to go with a Euro cover (it seems like most people who think they have a JDM cover actually have Euro ones)

Lance, Thanks. I had seen the second one, but not the first thread- that's definitely what I was looking for... but, Yikes! Way more involved than I was hoping, especially since my air dam is already paint matched to the car

Hey all, I have a BRE front air dam on my car, and a spare set of the back plates for the front rotors that I am going to cut and weld metal outlets on. What I am struggling with is how to bridge the gap between the inlets on the BRE air dam, which past the opening only have the bottom half there, to routing the air INTO the tubing. I was thinking of coming in behind what I have already with a preformed NACA duct, similar to: http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/0/049/049-42141.jpg I am just not sure if it will fit, or if it will look "hacked". I want a clean install. If anyone can post pictures of how they funneled the air from the dam into the tubes, that would be awesome. I have looked around, and seen ideas for different air dams / splitters, but I am trying to specifically find examples with the BRE style splitter. Thanks!

rturbo, Thanks! I was reading some people saying that with a lightweight flywheel, they need to "launch" at 2k or 3k just to get going. I'm assuming in free rev the motor will be much snappier, just wondering if it does something like stall out super easy or anything like that from a drive-ability perspective. I actually already have a 9.5 lbs Kameari flywheel I was planning on installing with my ACT sprung 6 puck disc with street spring clutch combo (also a little worried about going with 6 puck instead of full disc, but the power rating between the two is huge), was just having second thought before installing it.

Hey all, Just wondering if people can tell me what they experienced when going to a lightweight flywheel, specifically what weight flywheel you went with, general motor (especially cam) setup, and gears/diff. Pretty simple. I've seen some feedback sprinkled through out the forums, but am just looking for centralized raw feedback of actual first-hand experiences. Thanks guys!

Hey All, Trying to build my autocrosser up also as a Fairlady /432 semi-tribute car. The #1 thing I am looking for is original black fender mirrors. They don't have to be perfect, I don't mind having them repainted, but I don't want them to be banged up either. Same deal goes for the mesh grille. I am also in the market for a single Fairlady Z fender emblem (one of mine fell off), and the OEM hood and door emblems (like new condition). Would also be interested in the passenger footrest. Thanks!

Hey guys, I know it's kind of a dead horse at this point, but I thought I'd kick the topic a few more times for good measure I just completed this conversion, here's a few of my choices: I found a brand new '05 WRX STi diff for sale on ebay directly from a dealership for around $1500 shipped. I figured this was my overall best bet, figuring the cost to buy and then rebuild a used diff (I'm going to be racing with this). Got the stub axles from Wold Creek, and also purchased the CV conversion at the same time. Since I was going everything brand new, I left the stock Subaru input flange on the R180, and when I had the driveshaft balanced, along with new Nissan u-joints, I had the guy put an output flange on the ds to match the subaru flange. Overall way less effort. I then used 4 grade 12 hex bolts, 10mm 1.5 thread- note you WILL have to bevel a spot on the bottom edge of the head to get the bolts to sit flush. This route is overall a little more costly, but you end up saving a lot of effort and upgrading the durability of the pieces. You also must first put the press in bolts into the stub axles before inserting them into the diff, they are just too long otherwise. I got brand new OEM nissan bolts and nuts- the nuts are special and really narrow. Also be careful when tightening these bolts (4 per stub axle) as it is really easy to cross thread them.

Thanks guys, that's all very helpful! FYI, Panasports are out of stock right now (that was going to be my wheel choice) but sounds like they will get more early next year.

Bo, been trying. Haven't found a magic common number yet- quite a variation in setups, especially with people running spacers, which I would definitely like to avoid

Lol thanks! Too bad it's not 240Z specific and can tell me the magic offset and backspacing numbers for an 8" rim :/

I'm no tire expert, I didn't know if the overall height of a 245/40/1 would be greater than a 245/45/16.

I got a shift knob as well as the crossmember (being powdercoated now.) Still looking for a solid rack though. Gears need to be tight, no slop. Ideally would find a 70-71 that doesn't have the inner tire rod nut welded. Still looking for a clean front bumper with mounts.

Mike, That's exactly the dilemma I started the thread with. I'd like to run 245 tires... seems like the smallest combo out there that I can do is a 245/45/16 on 16x8" rims. The most frequent offset that I hear people using is 0 (and everyone running more than a 4 or 6 offset seems to also need spacers- I would like to avoid this), but it's hard to find much on backspacing. Seems that all the figures need to be perfectly placed. I DO plan on getting coilovers (Ground Control), and already have Tokico Illumina shocks. 245/40/17's would open on a lot of tire options for me though. Just skeptical of fitting 17x8" wheels in the Z with no flares.

Every little bit helps. Especially in autocross. I see my main "rival" as the Subaru BRZ. Roughly the same power, a little more weight but those suckers have 4.11's stock! And don't have to worry about syncing and tuning triple Mikunis :| The 205 Dunlop Direzza Z2's I'm running this season just look downright ridiculous. Way too small, you can tell from a glance. The 225 Yoko's rubbed, but I'm told my car right now has some sort of Mustang wheel, and I'm guessing the offset and/or backspacing is off. I have been seeing 0 offset as a really reliable "right" figure for wheels, so I suspect backspacing is the key. Car has Tokico Illumina's, going to convert over to Ground control coilover's before next season. I plan on buying new wheels are tires anyways, so I'm trying to maximize my value, get the most out of the money I'm spending. anything above 245 would be ridiculously awesome, but I'm trying to stay realistic and not bite off more than i can chew- 245's on a 16" rim is the goal. 245/25/16's means I'm likely going to run some sort of Proxes or the Bridgestone Ponteza RE-11's. Running a 17" rim would let me stay with the Direzza Z2's (I really like them) and really open up a whole slew of options. I would like to go with a 9" wide rim if possible. 8" minimum. I guess the magic numbers here are offset and backspace figures?