kamikazez

ya i know on the pistons, but as long as you run good gas, keep the mix rich and retard the timing a degree or 2 every few pounds of boost everything should fly right. i do agree that the forged would be better, but i just cant dish that kinda cash out yet.

thus far the block is at the machine shop. its being reslugged 30 over with dished hyper pistons (sealed power) and chrome molly rings. i picked up a set of edelbrock 202 575 lift heads that have been ported and polished and flowbenched. These are the same heads that edelbrock sells on thier supercharged crate motor. crank has just had a fresh turn to 10/10. picked up a true double roller timing set. got a head stud set in the 190k psi range. im currently looking for a set of roller tip arms but havent decided on 1.5 or 1.6 and im not gonna buy the cheap ass ones. ive got a street chiller intercooler and a holley double pumper carb. im still deciding on which ignition box i want but im leaning towards the msd, the mallory just seems outrageous. cam grind is still up in the air, but ill need it soon to start checking valve/piston clearances. thus far my compression comes out to 8.5:1 and i can mod that a little by throwing in a thicker or thinner gasket. im planning on running 6-8psi boost. from what ive heard the 144 is good up to 10, is that correct?

cool guys thanks, this guy has a really good rep selling race stuff, and from what hes told me the unit came off a running motor that lost a lower bearing (overboost on a stock 10:1 motor). he says it turns by hand with no binding and looks like it was taken care of. the front shaft doesnt has play and the rotors dont clank when its turned. i think im gonna go for it, im getting a holley double pumper, the blower, the intake manifold and a full stackf fuel chiller, and ill have to find a lower pulley somewhere (holley has em but man 200 bucks for a pulley?????). anything else you guys can think ill need for this setup?i was reading something about guys venting the crank case into the exhaust, but i would think the exhaust would have more pressure than the motor would

lol i hear ya on that. so far my setup is a sbc 355 8.5:1 compression. i just wanna make sure the rotors look ok for normal wear and tear and that im not buying a door stop, that and im buildin this from scratch and dont wanna grenade it the first time i fire it up

ya it says b&m 144 on the case. im having a hard time find out what drive type it is but it doesnt look angled enough to be a twin screw.

its a b&m 144 and i believe it is the vein type supercharger. its the same as the holley and weiand 144

so im moving forward with my supercharged z project and was wondering if anyone could tell me if this looks ok. i realize it needs new teflon strips and i managed to locate a set. im really just concerned particularly about the rotor and what you can see of the casing. thanks in advance to any replies.

just figured it all out last night. i replaced the little double relay box as it was corroded beyhond repair. It still wouldnt start but the fuel pump didnt run constantly. pulled the connector to the cold start injector and turned it over. it started right up. Shut it down and reconnected the injector and everything seems to be working now. Thanks for your reply . im just glad to have my z back.

just wondering if anyone has done a sbc350 with dual turbo setup. Just wondering about space related issues. Thanks

ok so i figured out that the relay is the efi relay set, which powers up the feul pump/efi unit. pulled the cover off and it is toast. my next question is would the lack of power to the efi unit keep the ignition coil from firing?

hi all, drove my car on thursday with no issues at all. on friday morning when i went out to start it i could hear the fuel pump running (the key was not in the car just so we are clear on that one). I turned the key on then off and the fuel pump shut off, and when i tried to start it it wouldnt, and the battery died shortly thereafter. i charged up the battery and tried to start it again, and after that the feul pump stays on full time. i pulled the plug from the back of the ignition switch to make sure and that didnt work, so i pulled the small silver relay box from under the dash and the pump has now stopped. upon feeling the feul rail with the pump running it felt like gas was continually running through the pipe. a. what is the little relay box under the dash called? it has two seperate plugs on it? its all corroded so i assume its part of the problem. b. could the fuel regulator be possibly faulty. its a 1975 280z btw. Thanks in advance to any replies.