andyhorror

I recently received a lead on two 280zs for sale coming out an old junk yard. I dont need the cars or parts but would hate to see them go to scrap. Is there enough interest in some most likey very rusty zs for parts? Im not looking to make a bunch of money only to put pieces into circulation and make money back. Also what do you guys think a crack free oem 73 dash would sell for? With or without gauges.

392 up front and 280 out back in lbs. swift springs are measured in kilos. still a little stiffer than than what has generally been recommended here. this is the first car that ive ever really built, so anything is going to be better to me than lowered on stock struts, slip over coils and 20yr old oe bushings. Jonc - i think since the coils arent really bolted in as of yet i will run some beads at the base if you say it needs done. i bow to your Z knowledge.

no they only come with a conical upper spring perch. so i guess all in, i'll have 1900 after camber plates and front front needle bearing spring perches. most off the shelf coil sets only come with front camber adjust-ability anyway.

the threaded perch isnt a press fit. those dots around the lower perch are holes that i drilled evenly all the way around and welded through. the lowers are basically plug welded

the cost was 1350 same as their off the shelf coils, cost me 1,405 to my door. i thought that was pretty cool that they dont charge extra for a "custom" coilover setup. if your car is already on the the ground setup and you have the ability to corner weight it they will build dampers custom to your setup. without further a due or prcrastination from me lol you can somewhat see the machined step in the lower perch. this is a front and as you can tell no notch for the nipple on the knuckle so i made my own on the front that i have already done. yet to order the T3 bolt in camber plates so im still running stock top for the time being just to i can get cutting on the floors my weld job... i was freaking out about welding 400$ to not easily replaced pieces and having them end up crooked. so i hatched a plan and went over it with my welder friend. he assures me they will be plenty strong. im still a little nervous about it. rears. they're not the prettiest of welds but i burned em in good and hot. plenty of penetration. rear rates. my springs are way too stiff from what ive read here but its what odi suggested and was on the other sets that hes made. if theyre too rough ill change em up thought i had a pic of the front rates... guess not, theyre 700 pic of the only one bolted in the turd i mean car. little shop pic teaser. hope to have some funny vids form this place for yall this summer

sorry to anyone that's been keeping an eye out too much coffee and whisky trying to get some work done on the car. in total rush mode to be ready for summer. FEAL is good stuff from what ive seen so far. they will make coils for just about anything that can use em it seems. i spoke with odi bakchis owner to order them. He made it sound like they had done a few sets before. the kit is pretty nice. it comes with nice powder coated lower perches that you quickly cut,sand,grind, and weld. they do have a nice inner ring machined into them. i just cut the og tubes down just below said machined ring. I'll swing by the shop on my way to work with my camera get some pics of em before they're all installed.

managed to get hold of my fabrication consultant. ill put up before and after pics

so. my new feal coisl arrived saturday and i spent most of saturday measuring and some of sunday cutting. i have what i feel may may be a new good idea for welding on coil perches. im on my phone now but ill post a pic later. ok heres the idea. instead of seam welding at the bottom like ive seen so often. i started drilling holes evenly spaced an inch apart all around the lower perch 5/8" from the bottom. landing my drilled holes half way up on the cut portion of my original strut tube. once holes are drilled and perch is on weld through the holes. im hoping this method has less chance of warping while welding. any thoughts, opinions, concerns? also not sure if this should be in the fab/weld section instead

makes sense to me. so identical calipers one on a 11in rotor and one on 13 rotor. the caliper fixed to a 13in rotor will have more brake torque in theory? i need to sit down and do the calculations.

another plus with the rx7 calipers is that all the pads are available.

could you elaborate on this? this is something that has been bouncing through my head. my thoughts: a large rotor equates to a larger lever to slow the hub. also fighting against this theory is that the larger the rotor has a higher speed that the caliper needs to slow. Am i way off base? if not, where is the happy medium or are they equal and balance themselves out?

during the rebuild of my stock Z front calipers a proper measurement of the caliper pistons was taken. 240z caliper piston 42mm diamter 21 rad surface area 1385mm sq 2770mm s2 front axl 5540 sq front axle rx7 caliper piston 30mm diameter 15mm rad surface area 706mm sq x4 piston 2824mm sq 5652mm sq front axl not a huge leap in piston area, but an rx7 caliper weighs about the same as one half of a stock z caliper this coupled with the option to go with larger vented rotors or even a two piece rotor down the road makes these a viable option for me down the road and maybe others. the toyota 4x4 "upgrade" hardly seems conducive to a performance car in which keeping unsprung weight down is a valid issue. and in an area "brakes" where most of that weight resides seems to me this is where the most savings car be made. if that can be done without spending 1000$ on a wilwood kit would be nice.

this is actually opposite from everything that I've just read. you count all of the pistons in a fixed caliper system when calculating your piston surface area, but double them when figuring area on a floating caliper setup. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/pdf/designing_4_pot_brakes.pdf piston area calculator along with some other good info on the site http://brakepower.com/help_abc_27_PAC_t.htm rx7 piston surface area for both front in millimeters based on rough 30mm measurement - 5652mm 240z pisotn surface area for both front in mm based on rough 55mm measurement - 9498mm does this seem right? have i completely screwed something somewhere? how is a more modern sports car that seems to be a good bit heavier running halved brakes?

i think that ill give the rx7 calipers a go with the 300zx rotors and link my build thread back here when i make it that far.

ive been looking for a way to run a two piece rotor to keep unsprung weight down while going vented. I will probably run rx7 calipers saving me 280$. they should do just fine for what i need.