Glitch

Glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy!

Ok, so you have fuel pressure and you have spark right? I would check to make sure your injectors are firing. This can be tested by using a NOID light or even a test light will do in a pinch. Unplug the two pin connector going to one fuel injector (any one will do) and connect a test light between the two wires. The light should blink while you are cranking the engine. If it doesn't blink you have no power to the injectors and it's time to check your wiring again. *******WAIT!!! I just re-read the post and figured out that you may have your fuel feed line going to the wrong place!!! You said you disconnected the fuel FEED line from the REGULATOR, right? That is NOT where the feed line goes my friend! The RETURN line comes from the regulator side. You had it absolutely correct when you described that the FPR is blocking fuel from the pump to the rail. It is. You need to swap your feed and return lines and then everything should be fine.

Ok, that makes sense. I don't know if this will help, but I seem to recall seeing a rebuilt VG30ET on usedvictoria.com for cheap...not sure if he is willing to ship to Calgary or not but worth a try.

Is there anything wrong with your current engine? The reason I ask is that a lot of the guys on the z31performance.com site seem to prefer turbo charging the N/A engine for better off boost performance due to the higher compression. Obviously an intercooler will be a must for this setup, but you probably planned on doing that anyway. It's not an ideal combination for a maximum effort performance set-up, but should work very well for a moderately modified street driven car. You will still need to swap the crossmember and change all of the other parts necessary for the NA2T swap, but you can at lease save a bit on the engine this way.

Drax, my thread is not entirely worthless...I do have one pic The snow is pretty much gone now and as soon as I get a bit of time to move the clutter around my car I will take some pics. I did upload a few crappy phone pics to an album on my profile here at Hybridz if you just HAVE to look at something. There are a couple of shots of the mock-ups for the mounts in there.

I used the stock engine brackets that came on the VG with stock 240Z motor mounts (inverted). I made my own frame mounts.

It's a bit difficult to diagnose this without more information. Was the car running fine before hand, or has it just started running badly after replacing the intake gasket? Did you get the gasket surfaces clean and remove ALL traces of the old gasket? Have you changed any components like intake manifold, carbs, removed any vacuum lines? Generally speaking, it sounds like you either have a large vacuum leak or your mixture is far too lean. Do the usual checks for broken vacuum hoses, check for air leaks around the carb gaskets and intake/exhaust manifold gasket as well. Look for cracks in the carb flanges where they meet the intake manifold. I wouldn't suspect the mixture to be off unless you were messing with the mixture knobs when you had the carbs off. This procedure works well for the round top SU carbs: A good place to start with mixture is first to turn both the knobs all the way in, then back them out 1.5 turns. (Mixture knobs are located on the bottom of the carbs.) Make sure that you open the mixture screws exactly the same amount on both carbs. Get the car up to operating temperature and turn the choke off completely. Keep backing the mixture knobs out a 1/4 turn at a time until you obtain the fastest idle speed. If the idle drops, turn back in 1/4 turn. Re-adjust the idle speed and then fine tune the mixture again. I hope this helps. Good luck!

I'll post some new pics soon. Right now where I live it's still -12C and snowing!!! My car is stored in an unheated garage so needless to say I haven't been doing any work on it through the winter. Things should be a little more spring-like in the coming weeks and I can't wait to get this car finished.

The pic in my signature is my car with the pathfinder manifold installed. It looks a bit different because I spent several hours smoothing it and removing all extra bumps and letters from it but is otherwise stock. I don't have any other pics hosted anywhere but my signature pic is current.

I am currently doing the VG30ET swap in my '71 240Z. I used a Pathfinder intake manifold angle-milled slightly for hood clearance and will be front mounting the turbo with custom manifolds. I was able to use the stock trans mount location with some minor hole slotting and a shifter mod. The early (series-1) 240Z chassis uses a different trans cross member and shifter location than the later cars so this may have been a factor. Steering clearance will not be a problem with the custom manifolds, but it would have been if I had used a relocation pipe. I used an alternator bracket from a KA24DE to avoid frame clearance issues. I found that I also had to use a different oil filter but went with a Volvo 240/740 OEM filter. I had no clearance issues with the hood latch area as the pathfinder manifold sits to the left of the hood latch and does not hang off the back of the engine like the 300ZX manifold does.

That looks like a "large" NPR intercooler from the pic. If so, then it will not fit without some mods...if I remember correctly the inlet/outlet are just a little bit narrower than the openings in the rad support and also a little narrower than the rad itself. When in doubt, measure measure measure!

It's always good to do the body first if you can afford it. If you are anything like me, once you get it to the point where it runs and drives, you will never get around to doing a complete tear down in order to do the body work. At the very least, repaint the engine bay before you do the swap (but after you have finished ALL of the test fitting)! After the body: brakes/suspension/tires! engine interior

My car is the orange 240Z with a VG30ET swap (in progress). The blue 240Z belongs to a friend of mine. I just completed the L28ET swap with him using a Holset HY35W turbo and SDS engine management.