pcs_russ

Yep, his car is coming along nicely. Should be ready to strip and paint in a few months. Thank You. It interrupts the injector signals. Cutting out complete events. They have an adapter to do ignition instead of injectors. It has no provision for shutting the throttle. Russ

Hey guys, thought I would post my experience of the Racelogic traction control system. I don't post often so to review, I have an RB26 powered 260z that makes 490whp on pump gas and pretty much spins anywhere below 90mph. We installed one of these on my brother's SR20 510 and worked better than we had hoped so I got one for my Z. I had few issues getting it working but its installed and does an excellent job keeping the car from getting away from you. Here are a few pointers for anyone looking to install one of these. 1. The most important things are wheel speeds. If you don't already have wheel speed sensors here is what to look out for: Racelogic's sensors seem to work well and have a handy led on the side of them for setting the air gap. The sensors are very finicky and must be mounted solid. No flimsy bracket will work. The Air Gap has to be kinda tight so make sure your trigger points don't flex under hard cornering. In the front I used the 12 brake rotor bolts with a bracket bolted to the old dust shield holes. (see picture below) For the rear I was lucky to have a diff with the speed sensor already on it. I just made a plate to replace the original sensor with the one from Racelogic. The system will work with only 3 sensors (2 front, 1 rear) if the rear sensor is on the driveshaft. The wires that racelogic use are very small and can be difficult to work with if your not use to them. I was not able to use the supplied sensor connectors because I couldn't push the terminals in them. I tried silicone spray ,heat, and a small pick to push them in but no luck. So I used my own Deutsche connectors and discarded the others. Once the system is installed use the software logging to test the wheel speeds for drop outs. Test them at high speed and when cornering. If one of the wheels speeds misses a signal it will cause a cut that can be mistaken for a misfire. 2. One drawback to the racelogic is it will ONLY work with high impedance injectors. Also, you will need to get to each injector individually. If you have 2 or 3 injectors running off a single output you will need to have them connected together before the racelogic. When wiring into the Injectors make sure you have a bypass plug. Sometimes its hard to tell if you have a wheel speed problem and you will need to bypass the Racelogic to test it. I had a sensor intermittently dropping out at speed and took a while to find it. 3. I highly recommend the Digital Adjuster. It's very useful for changing your launch rpm, checking you wheel speeds, and switching between wet and dry modes. 4. Hook the traction control box, digital adjuster, and sensors up and test them before installing it. On my brother's car the Digital Adjuster would not communicate with the traction control and had to be returned to racelogic for a firmware upgrade. Took 3 weeks to get it sorted out. On my system one of the wheel speed signal wires was shorted to the shield and wouldn't work. Had to cut open the supplied splice and fix it. Only took about 2 hours to figure out. 5.On my brother's SR20 the default injector cut tables worked great. On my car the cut tables barely slow the car down. I had to get aggressive with the cuts to stop wheel spin in first gear. Also, we had to increase the turning speed difference to stop sporadic cuts when turning sharply. The system allows more slip in a straight line then when cornering. There are also Wet and Dry settings. The system has a few quirks but overall it performs very well. I can now feel safe letting someone take my Z for a spin. Its nice to be able to just step on the throttle and let the system figure out the rest. I can't tell you how many times I've had my car unexpectantly turn sideways on me. My latest was at the drag strip when after about 6 runs the car decided to take a concession stand break at the 1/8 mile going 90mph on street tires. Obviously the car would be faster if your not relying on the traction control but the added safety is comforting and I can always turn it off. I opted for the launch mode. I'm still working with it to determine the best RPM for launch. The clutch in my car makes smooth launches on street tires difficult. My brother's 510 is simple... engage launch mode, step on the throttle, release clutch and go. pics of install

I was at the local pull your own parts yard today and there was 2 q45's with the diffs still in them. http://www.chesterfieldauto.com/ Diffs are only about $50. Hopefully someone can use these. Russ

I had the same problem on my RB26. I just bored the hole in the manifold out to 14mm. I don't remeber how deep I went though. Russ

No MAF at all. Just Map. Russ

Your correct, it won't do squat. It's there for looks. Russ

Joel, The TEC3 has an option to filter out pulsations in the manifold. There is a setting in the software to adjust the amount of filtering. I always leave mine set to 8 or 16, whatever is the max. If not, the manifold pressure jumps around like yours. This causes the pulsewidth to jump around making the car impossible to tune. On some cars i have had to add an extremely small restrictor to the hose running to the MAP sensor to get additional filtering. Make sure you connect the map sensor to the manifold on it's own hose. If you put it in the hose with the boost control you get a similar result. What size tires do you have on the back of your car? My car is either extremely over powered, under tired, or the suspension alignment is jacked. I can't do 3rd get pulls without doing burnouts. My wastegate spring is 13lbs and the car stays pretty much out of control all the time. It is fun spinning the tires on I95 at 70mph though. I just dropped it off at the interior shop so i will be down for 4 weeks. Maybe the extra weight will help. Russ

Joel, The MAP thing could be the typical filtering issue on the TEC3. Do you have the map filtering turned all the way up? Is the boost gauge actually jumping around that much? I haven't forgot about the maps i was going to send you. My first son came 2 weeks early and i haven't had time to get back to the car to get the maps for you. I will try tomorrow. Russ

Joel,

Still haven't had a chance to return to the dyno but after some tweaking and turning the boost up the car is going pretty good now. Does nice 60mph burnouts. Running 22lbs of boost now on pump gas. I wonder if it'll take 25?

Some info for you RB20 guys. This is a dyno of my brother's 240sx with an RB20. 100% stock engine, GT30r turbo, 440cc injectors, ebay manifolds, 3" exhaust, front mount intercooler and Electromotive TEC3. 20lbs on pump gas running in the high 10's afr and 18 degrees of timing. Going back this weekend to hit 400rwhp. Russ

I'm in Richmond... Let me know next time your in the area i show some other cool things i did on my car. Russ

I agree the needle gauge is not good for tuning and I only use for monitoring. I tune using the wideband reading from the ECU. I only made the gauge because I wanted a 100% stock looking interior and was not going to have a wideband and boost gauge stuffed somewhere. I have smoothed out the gauge and its actually not that bad to read. You can tell if its 11.0:1 or 11:5:1 but thats as close as you get. When I get my new driveshaft I'll take a new video with the camera mounted in the car so you can see how well it works. I plan on making a new gauge face for it as the needles actual sweep further than I thought and I'm losing resolution. The 10K tach is for my RB26. Russ