hpltree

this is for a 73 240

so after making many trips to the bone yard for kia sportage door seals I found a set of 2000 range rover door seals that are pretty close. they are a bit fat but work. the 90 degree corner at the top rear of corner two fits like a glove and then the rest just falls into place

just in case anyone was interested i got it fixed. turns out the alternator was good and i had some junk in my carb that kept it from idleing. cleaned out the carb and put in a new power valve and super duper. the amp guage still moves around alot more than it used to but whatever.. still no tach , i am in the market for an autometer i think

so with the 8920 msd tach adapter box installed with the 77 or 78 tach it still does not work .. it also almost left me stranded. me and my friend went to the corner market and the car would not start .. it was not hot but i had added some timing and it cranked slow and no start. we got a jump from on looker and when it started it was home bound fast no stops.. scary but we made it. she died around the corner with 12.2 volts left in the battery coasted in the garage . after un hooking the tach adapter and retarding the timing just a bit she started right up but will not idle.. ill tell you if i burnd up another msd box i am done. ./.,. the jump start also burned up the alternator internal reg and now the stock 73 240 amp guage just pegs when i rev it up , i am hoping that when i replace the alt the idle stall will go away. not to happy at this time, but i did get the car sidways after the jump start i just hammered it and she went ,, real hard so i smiled in my anger if that makes sence.. LOL. i will have to just put in an autometer tach like most , or just live with out ... looking at this post it sounds just like when i had fast boats they are fun when they run and not fun when they dont.. thanks again for all the help i will get it sorted out

ok here we go for starters yes i have searched for hours on this topic and no answers apply to my car.. i have a 73 240 with a chevy 350 conversion as per the JTR book. MSD dist, and 6al box , and 8920 tach adapter. the only stock ignition wire i am using is the black one with the protective sleeve for the MSD key hot wire . i have a 77 or 78 280 z tach in the car hooked up as per the MSD adapter instructions black to ground red to 12v key hot white to 6al box tach output violet to tack sensing with the 15k ohm resiter the jtr book says to use . I also have the stock connector on the tach going to ground and getting voltage with the violet spliced into the signal wire, still not woking. i am not using the green and white wire or the othe black wire for anything. i dont think this should this hard but i am missing the fix,, one question i have is does the 280z tach use 12v or the 9 1/2 like the 240 . with so many folks on here someone must have this set up and got a handle on it ,, thanks for the help .

yes i think thats what i needed thanks again i will ty it out next day off after getting my adapter.. i will let you all know if she works

thanks.. this a good example of how we all spend hours searching things and not getting any answers.. after reading your post i searched for (msd 280z tachometer) and got your post only for a responce. after a few more trys i put in( MSD 280z tachometer ) and whala the caps on the msd made the diff.. i do search and look before i post but not always with good results.. maybe i am just a poopie head . i am better with tools than computers

ok so mine is a 73 with a 77 tach as the jtr manuel says do i still need the 1.5 kil resiter to get the tach to work.. or just the msd adapter?

that is super i will check mine asap, thanks for checking it out in know it is not easy. i just dont get it mine works great but it is so hard to push . did you alter the rod length of the master at all ?i cut mine to match the stock one at first but it did not give enough throw to the slave so i added what i thought was the right amount to it do you think that it could be to long ? it is almost the same length as the willwood stock. could be just a hair long.. i will check my messurments tommorrow to see if i am close and will keep you posted thanks again..

ok so i drove my car again today, the motor runs super very strong but i spend a lot of time thinking about my shifting, because it is so stiff. the clutch is a stock auto zone $100 set so it does not have a bunch of P.S.I here is a photo of my set up bracket.. i cut the stock clutch arm just inside of the stock ball. also i am using the same part number willwood/ summit parts that you used -4 lines and all . if you look at the mounting surface and the end of the clutch arm i think they are really close to yours. the one change i did make is i did not cut any of the clutch master peddle rod off it is almost the same length as when it came out of the box... if you look just in front of the quad paddle tire you can see the bracket and the mounting edge. also on the clutch fork the hole is just inside the edge of the ball .. looking at your pics it seems that my bracket is just a bit further out towards the trans tunnel , i was thinking that it had to much angle but yours seems to have more than mine, i would be interested in knowing the distence frome the edge of the bell housing to the slave cyl hole in the clutch fork,, and th same from the trans to the slave mounting surface with the rod end.. thanks

mine is installed almost to the letter as yours, same part #`s from summit on the master and slave, with a - 4 line .. i cut the arm off just after the ball as you did , so i think that my bracket is off i will get some pictures to show you

j m thanks for the reply..i do see the point of what will be quicker but i am almost looking for what will be a better driver friendly combo, the starting off in second works great but then there is third real quick and fourth, so my untrained brain thinks that a lower or taller ( 3.90 to a 3.54 ) or taller to shorter gear would help ?? the car is a rocket super fun but i dont see us hiting the freeway at 90 with any rpm leftover .. thanks again for the help you are the gear man..

but it runs like the race car i never had.. it puts back in the seat hard and then a bit more.. i am almost scared to put it to the floor after it gets broken in

i spent 300 bucks on the car and then got tired of it.. even with dual webers that helped out alot i just needed to do the v8 conv.. it is running now and is a blast i think im about 5 to 6 grand without adding all the little things but if you buy and old used motor that runs you get it done cheeper. my $80 chevy 350 that i was going to re ring and put new bearings in ended up being a full rebuild plus new heads and so on..... so be ready for the unexpected..

ok so i just started to drive my 73 240 with a 350 chevy and a t5 conversion ... it all works super but i think the r200 out of an 82 280z with a 3.90 gear is to tight. i go through the gears to fast, i dont want to do 200 mph but i do want a little punch.. if i leave a stop light in second gear it pulls super hard but if i go first second third i loose half the rpm cause i have to shift so fast any thoughs?????

sorry this is a 73 240 with a 350 chev and t5 in it i love it so far

ok so after i got my car running with this set up i have a bit of info to share... it works realy well easy to bleed ( if you read the distructions )... but my pedal is very heavy, i think it is my fault cause of bad geometrey, looking at it i thought it was fine but i had no way to tell till it was in and running.. i still dont know what the fix is but read this thread very slowwly and remember it as you make your bracket for the salve cyl.. if i get it nailed down i will let you know. dont get me wrong this set up works well i get full clutch disingagement, sorry i cant spell or maybe i can ? lol it is just that the pedal is very hard to push down , i have about 20 miles on the car and all is well but my leg shakes at the stop lights. i am open to any ideas . thanks again love this forum and all the help i have recieved, thanks again

thanks i guess that will also get tossed out, im gettin pretty close to having it ready to go .. thanks again

I have these left over wires and a relay that I'm not sure what to do with. Here's a pic of the relay and the harness in question, which goes over to the windshield wiper motor (upper right). Upper left is the connection to the windshield wiper reservoir motor and the the brake proportioning valve. Do I need the brake proptioning valve wire? What is the relay for that is shown in my hand? This is a jtr v8 carb conversion on a '73 240Z.

thanks for the comments, yes it fits like a glove almost like it should of been born with a v8 in it

it is friday and it is in finally thanks again, i hope you all like it as i do . i think it looks super in there with the metalic paint

the motor and trans out of this car is for sale, it has the weber 32/36 s and is a bit tired but i have a video coming soon showing it running

i have a bunch more pictures but i was waiting to see if these are the right size

ok these pics are a bit large but nobody helped me fixed them so here you go............ thanks for all the info this site has been very helpfull

sorry guys im still learning how to do this