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About Incognitjo

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    Lakewood, CO
  1. That did it. Thanks NewZed. That diagram was all I needed. Now for soldering and a test fire.
  2. I think I am going to pull that section of the loom apart, by that diagram it looks like the second Blk/Blu wire should come off the resistor, going in to the condensor, then grounding. That is not the case in mine from what I can tell. But I'm sure it's secrets will be revealed under the loom. I do like your idea of starting back at the unit itself.
  3. That is a much more accurate diag than I have found. Thanks.
  4. The car runs great. Single pick up, which is why I am asking the question. I've looked at the diagrams for other years, that hasnt cleared it up. Bought it with 48k orig miles on it. Had vacuum leaks (of course) and fuel pressure issue but those have been resolved, everything else is fine. Planning on a crank triggered ignition EDIS eventually but I wanted to squeeze a little more juice out of this L28 so I am running through each major system and updating. Have a 383 heading my way and thinking about swapping that in so I'm not spending a ton on the L28,just trying to get it solid while I decide... Thanks for the info.
  5. Here's a link I hope will work with photos: https://goo.gl/photos/YdKQQqW8XxpAHBUs7 I'm hoping someone can help. I've searched here and at many other forums and there is a lot of stuff surrounding this install but nothing on the actual install. I feel like sticky material could be made of this issue, I cant be the only one. I understand that the Blue wire from the loom is the coil ground, I am pretty sure that the Black/White tracer is the coil+ and the Run circuit. Then there's two Black/Blue tracer wires that have me stuck. I believe them to be the Start circuit wires but my issue is that there are two of them. All the factory diagrams show only one. Mine seem to come out of the loom in the same spot, connect to the ballast resistor with the funky \_/ thing and I have no clue why. Can anyone assist? The pictures should have enough info to go on. Then there's also that condensor... RFI? It continues forward in to the front bumper area and is connected to the block under the distributor but not to it, and the other Blue wire coming out of the loom and ending with a female connector, never been connected to anuthing so not important really, but I am curious. Anyway, thanks for any help. Bout to bust out the DVOM and start fiddling.
  6. Right on, Good to know. I am moving slowly through my Z getting everything right. Bigger tire n such are a long term goal as I am toying with the idea of putting a 383 in it. Thanks for the info, I never saw an update so today is literally the first I had seen of your reply...
  7. Lol, I have this same problem with my 77 280. So far I have replace Exhaust, Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, Injectors, Crank Timing kit, FPR, and now I am putting in the XR300/PS91 setup to see if I can get it to go away. Truth be told though, I'm pretty sure the issue is Fuel, at least in mine. I let the tank get really low while I've been doing Idle testing after all these part swaps and the one time I took it out to go down the street, I went WOT and (Remember the low fuel) when I hit about 3k it did the exact same bog that happens at 5500 normally. So then I accelerated slowly and no problem all the way up.Right around the same time all the low fuel would have been stuck to the back of the tank. I know this is an old post but if any of you figured out exactly what it was, lemme know. TPS, AFM, etc...
  8. You now what I love? I love that anywhere you go in the forums regarding wheel and tire size, there is literally NO LIST anywhere that I have been able to find of verified wheel and tire combo's that work on the Z's. A whole lot of talk about what may or may not, but nothing solid. It doesnt make sense to me. It either does or does not fit, you either have to cut/roll or dont. Why cant anyone just post a flipping list of tire combos that work?
  9. What suspension setup are you running on this beastly shoed machine?
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