BLKMGK

Pretty cool - thank you! Always wondered if that would work. Have also always wondered why more folks didn't try to put those motors into the older cars - didn't realize they were V instead of straight 6s. (duh) It really does look like a decent fit - still reading though

FWIW - I looked into the "Mystic" style paints - there are a ton of them and they can be had for less than what HOK wants for them. I spent DAYS looking through paint books - lot's of neato' colors out there. Find a friendly paint shop and look through their books but do it in the DAYLIGHT only - trust me. HOK sells paint schip books too - big bux tho'. Personally, having someone try to duplicate my car would be a compliment and you'd better believe I've taken tips and tricks from other cars starting with Mike K's 'glass bumpers I've got a spoiler much like his too but skipped the whale tail as I didn't want to dupe his car. I'm also real attracted to the TSW wheels on a car we've seen here - orange in color close to mine. Basically, if I like it I'll emulate it but I won't be such a jerk as to think mine will be better and if I did I certainly wouldn't say so. Credit where credit is due - I'll tell anyone where I got the ideas for my car...

Ya' know... with so many of us going to 3.7LSD and T56 trannies and then finding we don't get enough RPM at cruise perhaps this is something that should be looked at more? The 3.9 R200s are supposed to be somewhat common, what about deeper gears that that? Would the .2 difference over the 3.7 make a big difference? What would it take to get a decent cruise RPM? I'm not yet to the point of having to worry abotu this but am thinking ahead on it. Would a 4 series gear make first useless?

Has anyone considered tubular rear and front arms? Fronts shoudln't be too bad but the rear, since I need one anyway, is my main interest right now Worth considering? I wouldn't think it would be stricly needed but it would be cool (smile).

Heh, crowbar I've got What's interesting is that this "R180" looks damned close to what my R200 looks like. The "R200" moustache bar i've got is exactly the same as what's coming out of my car. It's a '72 so perhaps I didn't need the bar, I wasn't sure so I bought it anyway. I'll try to pop those stubs out here in a little bit - cross your fingers! If I can get the brake lines off I can start my coil over stuff too... Update! They popped right out with a little grunting - THANK YOU! Broke my brake lines free too after buying a set of metric flare wrenches (ouch!). Moving along now... [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 24, 2000).]

Drat - I've pulled the rear driveshafts and expected to find a nut that I'd have to remove to pull th estub. Nope! Now, I'm pretty sure this sucker is an R180 and I see no way of pulling that stub axle out. I thought from reading my book that there might be a nut there. Do I have to remove something inside? Or is this a simple slide hammer type setup? Help! My 3 (!) books are no help with this and in fact all seem to have the same drawings and pics?! Clymer, Haynes, and the factory manual. I think this is slide hammer work but I'd like to be sure - especially since I'll have to rig one...

Sorry Head - I know there's someone here who sells RX stuff and I got confused, thought it was you I'll let everyone know how the Konigs fit or don't on my car when I get that far. Righ tnow I'm stuck getting the damned braided brake line off! Need a 10mm flare wrench it looks like, sucker is stuck tight on both sides. (grr)

I'm interested Morgan - can you provide a live link? Seriously, I need one of these for my RX

Crane Hi6? Check your timing after install. The Ford guys found that it did strange things to their initial timing after install. I'd double check it to be sure.

Heh, I've got a manual an deven did this - but it's been awhile. MSA sells the rubber wiper boots and the plastic cups under the windshiled - you may want to order some while you're at it. Vacuum that area REALLY good - leaves and crud can get in there and make a real mess. Behind the fenders is even worse I'm afraid.

SCCA - you've piqued my interest on the Outlaw rears I think the brakes I got from you have no E-brake, $160 is decent! Will it fit the same brackets that I've already got? I'm pretty sure mine are weld-on. How much are the front calipers? Same brackets? Rotors? Really don't want to redo the whole setup until I've tried it out at least but billet makes me drool and an E-brake is icing on the cake. Well okay, E-brake is really important to me TNX! Hope to unbox the stuff and organize it today for possible work this holiday - at last!

Heh, I've got Konig Tantrums on my RX7 TT! Look great to me and th ebolt pattern is the same as the 5lug I'm going to. Will I test fit them when the 5lugcoilover is done? Hell yeah! I like the TSW wheels too FWIW. Pics of my car(s) are here-> http://216.254.117.47/development/testweb.nsf If you're interested in the Konigs but they're too expensive head over to www.thepartstrader.com and jump into the RX7wheelssuspension area. Lot's of used stuff on sale worth looking at. While there find me an inner door handle for the passenger side door Head, you got one? An Efini Y-pipe too

Cobra R for 93 had 13s as have the Cobras from 94 on. Rear brakes have been disc since 94 on the Cobras (and now the GTs) and are all the same size I think. SCCA is the guy to ask about fit and it sounds like it's a no-go.

The rwal bummer (IMO) is that Panasport doesn't seem to make 17inch wheels nor do they seem to make 5lug wheels. I actually really LIKE th ePanasports I've got right now but I'm going to go 5lug so.... If I could find these wheels in a 17inch size in 5lug I'd be damned happy!

COPPER line?! Dude, that's not good if it sees vibration. It will work harden and eventually fracture - not good! Use silicone or braided line and get rid of the copper!

If you're finding LS1 motors WITH the T56 for $3K in good shape I'd jump on it! Kripes, depending on where you are the silly T56 can run well over a grand. The LS1 is all aluminum but I'm not sure it's really lighter. Would be a REALLY cool motor to have in a Z tho' Please document it as much as you can...

At a minimum I'd go with what I've got. 4 points in the back touching down on the rear tub and the strut tower - NOT the back bumper. From there I've got sidebars going down past my hip to the foot area. From the top of the rear main hoop I've got bars going along the tops of the doors to a bar going across the windshield. Last but not least the bar at the windshield also touches down in the footwell area following the countour of the dash. Simply tying the rear strut towers together with a 4 point isn't going to do squat except maybe keep the roof from coming down on you. I had two concerns with my cage - side impact (BIG concern) and torque twist. A bar in the back will address neither of these. I may even go back and have another side bar welded along the lower rocker for additional strength from a side impact! Yeah, climbing over the bar is a PITA, especially when it wasn't painted and I got rust on my butt. However it will save my butt in a side impact and if NHRA type rules hadn't been a concern it could've dipped down some to get out of the way and been tied in somewhere (shrug). Is up to you but decide what you wish to protect. Don't do a bar just for looks IMO. P.S. Done right you'll still have rear vision

I've heard fo those guys, I believe they're supposed to be pretty good. I've spoken to other guys having troubles with blow-throughs, it's a pain! I'm a BIG fan of EFI but the carb route certainly seems easier on th esurface. But by the time you add up the sealed bonnet over the carb, the custom carb, and the troubles with keeping it and it's air bleeds clean I really have to wonder. Are you going to go this route? If so please keep us posted as if there's a carb that can do this "right" I might be interested down the road. It has some definate possible upsides over machining an intake, buying a throttle body, having rails made, pumps, programming and on and on if it works well (sigh). We'll see...

Speaking of temps and intercooler effeciency... I was on th ehunt for a gauge to measure this sort of thing. I found a very expensive gauge made by an aircraft firm that refused to sell direct. I also spoke to a guy at work who may be willing to make me a gauge. Lastly, I found a gauge company that's interested in building such a thing and has said they will send me one for FREE to evaluate - analog though. I'm still waiting for that gauge to show up but they've sent me the "bill" so I know what it migh tcaost (ballpark). Is anyone interested in such a gauge? You'd be able to see delta temps and with somem switch trickery be able to see intake and exhaust sides of the intercooler. With another sensor you could even do air inlet to the turbosupercharger. If this is interesting or if someone has seen a better option lemme' know - I want something for the RX7 I think I may talk to the guy at work some more about a digital version - he seemed to think it wouldn't be hard to build...

Morgan - if I had to guess it would be because of th ereduced granularity. I tried swapping to a 3bar on my DFI setup once - the granularity went down noticably and I had a much tougher time tuning it. I ended up going back to the 2bar sensor. YMMV but I'd guess that this is what their concern is (shrug).

Owen, I seem to recall there being some bolts involved - possibly behind the front fenders. It's been at least six months since I pulled mine though so I could be mistaken. FWIW - there's a book out there on restoring older Zs. This book rox! It's got tricks and tips for pulling all sorts of parts off and refinishing them - mucho' reccomended!

An idea I've heard of but never seen done is a surge tank up front. Use a standard carb pump to fill a tank up front with a float of some sort to prevent overfilling. Then in that tank run a regular EFI pump with a return to that tank. Maybe put that tank where the battery sits stock? Anyway, with such a small volume up front even if th erear loses fuel pickup you'll have your fuel up front. Hard to explain but can you visualize what I'm saying?

Front or rear? It seems to be fairly easy to tweak the front, not sure hwo hard it is to get it back in line. Possibly a job for a frame shop. If it's the rear I'm not sure how hard it is - have you looked for signs of a repair?

Need to get out there and press out the old pin bushings. When that's done I may head for the powedercoating shop and have them coated. They're fairly reasonable and I hope to not have to pull it apart this far again anytime soon! No reason why I couldn't do the strut tubes is there? Thinking solid diff mount too, I'll try to insulate it with some rubber if I can to kill the noise. Thanks for the tip(s) Pete - I'll do as you're suggesting! Metal to metal would probbaly drive me out of the car so I'd like to avoid that if I can. Will try to find a good source of thin rubber for the diff mount while I'm at it and report back. Fun Fun!

Hrm, looks liek the Heim attachments sold in MSA are for the FRONT although you have to read closely between the lines (IMO). Guess I'll go urethane and worry about it later if I really want to tinker.