BLKMGK

Spoke to Rewarder today to find out where the bleep my headers are. Ordered with 3-day shiping on Monday and they still aren't here... Well, it seems they're still MAKING the headers! Doh! However, this is probably goiong to turn into a GOOD thing. When I asked them if the collectors could be extended a bit he said "certainly" and that he would ship them to me unfinished and uncoated. I could then mark where I wante the flange attached and have them weld itcoat them or weld them here and let them coat the headers. This does mean a PITA of having to send them back and forth however at this point I surrender and will endure the added hassle Seriously, I couldn't take a day off to get them done early next week anyway so I might as well do this "right". I'll take pics and measurements so that others can order from them and perhaps we can even get a particular part number for us - wouldn't that be cool? So, hang in there a little longer guys - I think this is going to work out to our benefit. Hrm, and the guy I spoke to was REAL nice and very accomodating. He sounds like the guy making the headers and I was MUCH more comfortable speaking to him on the phone than I was Sanderson (shrug).

Who makes the intercooler core? Is it out of an OEM application?

Have you measured the room under the back? I'm not sure how "long" that tank is but there's minimal room in that direction under there - especially if you run an LSD brace like I am. If there's room it sounds like you've got a very good plan!

Lone, my setup is just like yours. I agree too, a light would be fine by me so long as burnout doesn't kill things. My previous alternator was a "one wire" that had the two additional outputs if I so desired to use them - it had a "turn on" RPM. Heh, yeah this is all somewhat confusing and I'm just happy my silly $40 alternator works now. Want my nice chrome 100amp one wire back though, need to see about that And Pete - NOTHING wrong with idiot lights. I'm pretty close to installing one for my coolant temp. I've had the thermostat stick ONCE for a short period of time, thankfully it was fine after it hit 210. However an idiot light in addition to the gauge to warn me of such an event would be a VERY good idea methinks! Maybe wire up the alternator to the same light?

Honestly if all I wanted was 5-7lbs of boost I'd look at something like a PowerDyne supercharger. It ought to be able to supply that boost with a 9lb head unit without straining too bad (9lb on a 302) and you'd not have the plumbing issues. Those blowers don't use an oil feed either if I recall and I've seen them make power on a Ford. I don't like their reliability record but on a low(ish) boost app where you aren't spinning them out of their designed range it's worth a shot. Those blowers are pretty cheap too! Heck, maybe even a used Vortech head unit, say an S Trim? Hrm.... To answer your question directly though - for a low boost application no intercooler is required. How many folks do you know that stay satisfied with a low boost application though? Mo' Power!

I'd be interested in knowing how well the Camaro tank lines up. Rear fill is a PITA, getting the angle right with my cell was pretty much impossible unless I wanted to risk hitting the sump on parking blocks Perhap an Impalla SS tank could be used? Fill angle looks pretty shallow but I've never really looked to see how big it is - probably heeyuge like the rest of the car Those cars have the license tag holder you'd want to use. Cells like Mike has fill at the top middle like mine, giant hassle to get a rear fill in there. What other tanks might work? At least my aluminum cell could be welded on if you had to but we chose not to try that when mine was done. Maybe I could section my existing angled filler to work? I'll take a peak, maybe it could work and it sure would beat having to open the hatch to fill! Since my tank "oil canned" filling it is a giant PITA, 10gallons isn't near enough either

Not to worry Pete, I'm not thrilled about the cell being in a crush zone either but it's foam filled an should break away or go down in an accident. At least that's what I hope occurs! I'm seriously conidering doing a bigger cell with a steel safe like Mike's got now - I'd have done it the first time if I could've found one that I thought would fit We'll see, for now I just try hard not to dwell on it.

Sweet, a new pic of my favorite Z car! I tried hard to get those wheels for my car - no longer made, not available IMO I'd not worry so much about the rear bumper. If you're hit from behind I'd not expect much from the stock bumper. This is part of my reasoning for a cage and I'm using that back area as a crush zone. I DO worry about the fuel cell quite a bit and will probably upgrade at a later date to somehting both stronger and safer with a bladder in addition to the foam I've got now. In my case I've simply got a fiberglass bumper painted to match the body color. Love that look too I'll agree! Can anyone that's been rear-ended speak to the 240 bumper? My car had been tapped a time or two prior to my owning it and all it did was smoosh the bumper into the valence and leave nasty dents. I'm thinking in a "real" accident it would squish right back and the only value added would be distributing the force along the entire backend... Yes?

Hrm, had a problem on my Mustang where a dummy at the dealership routed my cable wrong after a recall on the catalytics. It didn't take long for the speed sensor on the end to fail internally as the trans tried to drive the kinked speedo' cable. The dealership claimed no fault of course and I had to fix it myself - 2 dealer trips for free work, got screwed both times, learned my lesson! Ended up having to replace the sensor ANd the cable in the end. What I'm trying to say is be careful with the routing. You're obviously already aware that it can be sensitive but try hard not to fudge it. If you see any evidence that the cable is binding while looking at the speedo fix it asap or you'll be sorry as I was. Is this an EFI car? If not and if it's got a speed sensor on the end you may be able to remove it to gain more room....

Hard to tell but is that a SBC?! I think the downpipe needs work and I'm not keen on the turbo position but it looks like it's got potential! Oh, and I like this one better! http://voice.htmlplanet.com/cgi-bin/i/picture16.jpg Shame there's no intercooler though but a neat packaging idea! [ September 28, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Hrm, MiniRam on that car? Anyone think that would be better than a converted carb intake? Trying to weigh the cost and labor between a miniram and converting a Victor Jr. I'm told the inlet to valve distance on the miniram is even shorter than the Victor. 3inches vs 2inches I'm told but cannot confirm. Torque is something I can afford to lose and packaging wise that intake might be easier - just not sure how the pricing would work out (shiver)...

Yeay, I can post again! Yeah, the Sandersons were a no-go and they didn't seem like they wanted to help much. The Rewarder set should be here, in fact it should've been here yesterday Ordered Monday and had it shipped 3-day so.. If it's not here today I'll be calling to bitch. Have several things to do before Saturday evening including driveshaft bolts and ignition so I may not have an answer before Sunday. If the primaries are sized on the flange like the Sandersons I'll be very happy. They had some good looking tubes but geez they were too short I'll post as soon as I know something

Heh, now I'm confused. I'm pretty darned sure that the wire that JTR says is for the bulb is simply NOT hooked up in my car. I can doublecheck if it would help but after searching here, finding this thread (early on), still being stumped, I simply followed the JTR advice and it's seemed fine so far. Need to go get my one wire alternator though - it was rebuilt. I'm told it didn't look too great inside too BTW - it was a ProForm unit. As for running a sensing wire to the back well... When I was troubleshooting my charging issue (bad alternator) I took some measurements between the alternator and the battery and saw NO voltage drop! Yup, I couldn't find but maybe a tenth of a volt difference. I can doublecheck if that sounds really whacky but it's what I recall. I ran stereo cable to the positive side and used a batteyr relocate kit for the ground. Ground comes right to the starter motor as well as the bodyframe in about 4 places I really figured I'd lose at least a half volt but so far it looks kosher, what a relief! Especially after the first starter seemd to labor so much on hot starts - I swore it was probably battery but nope!

Cerberus - my chassis guy did NOT put the bars all the way back intentionally. His feeling was that in an acident I'd be better served by having a "crush zone" behind me. This way I would have some cushion and not have the shock tied into the cage so directly. Hopefully I'll never have to test this design decision! Hrm, I do have a strut tower brace in addition to the cage being tied to the towers. That was mostly because I've got it and saw no reason NOT to use it. I'll have to sit down one day and docment the cage design. I would like it if th efloors were a little more reinforced over the plates I've got but that's a future addition I think.

I bought a one way valve from a race supply place thinking it could be used as a rollover valve - didn't take much thinking before I realized it would NOT work in that manner. I DO have a rollover valve with a steel ball inside but despite Jeg's saying it will fit my cell it apparently requires drilling a hole to be used - it's on the shelf. My vent, as a result of all this, is simply vented out the fender If there's another solution I'm all ears! I'd say cap off the stock return on both ends and set it aside for later use if you want. When I go EFI I'll simply run a second line - it's not that hard or expensive and I want to be sure I can handle the volume. (shrug) To each his own..

Have you got the JTR book? I ran into this exact same problem when my one wire got fragged. The $40 replacement was 3 wire and I've wired it up with one wire going to the Z harness and a second wire jumpering to excite the doohicky (field?) inside The third wire, which I think would normally be used for a light, isn't hooked up as I recall. I pretty much just did it exactly the way JTR said it should be done....

Clint is exactly right. I read a very interesting article written by a group that was trying to make a sprayer for their intercoolers. Come to find out that spraying water on an IC as the turbo went into boost made NO difference in inlet temps! There was simply too much hysterysis (sp?) for it to be effective. They figured out that if they sprayed the intercooler a bit BEFORE going into a period of boost that it made a difference. I don't recall what they finally figured out but I'll bet controlling it all was "fun". Local shop just picked up an acocunt with Nitrous Express. Thumbing through their catalog I ran across an "interesting" piece - a spraybar for NOS designed to spray an intercooler to ide it before a run! Seems kind of expensive to me, they may order one to try on the dyno just for grins though

I'm pretty sure Honda motors spin "backwards" from most engines - except for the new S2K motor. It would be more work than just finding a trans I'm afraid - you'd have to drive in reverse

Heh, I'm betting thta's part of th eproblem then. My calculations may be completely hosed but I'm coming up with a surface area of 69sq inches for the Z flywheelclutch and 86.5 for a 10.5 inch Mustang flywheelclutch combo. Mind you it's been a looong time since I've had to do this sort of calculaiton (math not my forte anyway) but if that's right we're talking about a noticable difference. How big is the flywheel on the Mitsu AWD cars? Hrm, is there a dual disk setup offered for the Z? You could use a less aggressive compound with two disks and a floater. Might rattle with the clutch pedal down a little but this is how some of the higher powered V8s are getting the power down. The Indy folks use multiple disks too I'm pretty sure - their flywheels are tiny!

Dan, I'll check them out. However weight was a concern of mine. Those headers are fairly heavy - the ones I just sent back, including the box, were just under 15lbs. The cast headers are closer to 20lb+apiece I think. Ouch! As for the Hookers - dunno'. I would ASSume that since they're also 1 5/8ths that I'd have a mismatch that was just as bad. Honestly the only reason why this is an issue is because the heads I've got have such big ports. Heck, they may have even been opened up some by the shop that built the motor (shrug). The Flowtechs ought to work fine for smaller ports and they're actually working fine for me now but the mismatch bugs me. Watching dyno pulls on somewhat regular basis now I'm starting to see where evensmall changes can make for BIG gains so I'd like to be as optimized as possible. Maybe I can get some pulls before and after?

Ah okay - he didn't say what he was running at first and I've not yet memorized what everyone's combo is. When folks ask questions they need to identify the drivetrain! Since most of us run V8s.... Hrm, and a Centerforce II clutch in my Mustang held up to about 450+ft lbs daily driven and raced. That was a 10.5 or 11inch clutch. Surface area makes a REALLY big difference, how big a surface does the L6 have? I'm actually about to buy a clutch for the RX7 I own and am probably going to have to buy something pretty nasty. I just hope I don't tear up the flywheel with too aggressive a material. That's a very real worry when you start buying aggressive clutches. The toggle switch nature of some of them is also no fun on the street

I'm buying them out of the box coated. I did some measuring and they look like they MIGHT fit. Given a choice I don't want to be sending them back and forth over and over (sigh). Since the Hooker and the Flowtech's fit I don't think our application is all that weird. We'll see when they show up, I really don't want to keep going round and round on this. Heh, thanks for the gasket number - I wondered which it was I've not yet blown one thankfully. Big ports huh?

Scary car meets? You must be talking about the Mathis Avenue cruise on Friday and Saturday nights? Lot's of punks, lot's of playing around, lot's of cops getting irritated? Or was this a street race sort of thing - we have that goin' on too I'm sure. I've not street raced in awhile and as much as I've told folks about my car I don't imagine I'll find many suckers wanting to race either This is an organized cruise with all makesmodeslyears. It's held every Saturday until it's too cold out and folks start showing up as early as 5:00 or so. It's out near the Manassas airport at the Burger King on RT28. I've not got an address but there's a McDonald's right across from it. Get with me offline and we can try to line something up so I can be sure and be there.

This was a McLeod clutch for a V8?! Folks, we're only talking 300-400HP - dual disk, unsprung, wild combos shouldn't be needed. Pete's sounds fine for the street and mine is VERY docile too. My attitude was that I wasn't going to spend a ton of money if I didn't have to.

I'll tell ya' Scottie - it's a shame you live so far away You have too much fun! Scary but I'm already looking around a little to see what other sorts or neato' swaps can be done now that the Z is so close to being "done" (cough). A friend of mine in NJ has a T-Type that's pretty close to maxxed for what you can do on a stock block. It's girdled too and he's going to be looking for some really sick times. He had torubles with it for awhile and nearly sold it but I refused to take it off his hands - he'd have regretted it. One of these days I'll have a GN drivetrain in something interesting! Please keep us posted on the RX7 swap - I'll be interested to hear how it handles too. An auto in it, right?