BLKMGK

Glad the mystery was solved Pete, I'm sure wondering if the body shop did this to you was aggravating - at least you know now! If you wind up needing to borrow a G-Tech I've got one. Funny but it's been used by friends more than it has been used by me! I think you'll find the Victor is a fine intake. I've been able to lug mine down as low as 1KRPM on the highway no problems but my cam is probably milder (shrug). Mike, do I need to drive by and rev the motor to really get you moving BTW - got my Rewarder headers. Will update that thread

Heh, I've got a 72 myself. I think you'll find the swap is an easy one - especially after you read the JTR BOOK. Get the book It doesn't cover the LS1 but it gives a terrific overview of the swap and some good tips. Since my car is th esame year I may be able to help with questions specific to the '72. You can do this as a mild or wild swap but like others have said I'd upgrade the brakes at least and I'd consider a cage. These suckers are Uni-body and given enough ponies turn into flexible flyers. I used MikeSCCA's brakes and they work well and look good. An R200 rear is a must and an easy swap - LSD units come out of 85.5-89 300ZX turbos (3.7:1). I'd suggest considering upgrading the U-joint rear axles to CVs from a 280ZXT too but this will require a custom adapter that I think Ross is working on. I think that's about it. Get the book , use the search, and ask questions when you get stuck. Lot's of member WEB sites out there too that should help as well. Will you be keeping the stock wheels and body or upgrading etc.? Any rust? Do you have pics to share? Enjoy and good luck - this is a FUN swap. P.S. Sure you don't want to do a Chevelle? J/K

Streetability - different for everyone I suppose but here goes: "Streetable" to me means that I can get in the car, drive it to the store in rush hour traffic, and not hate it when I get there. That means a clutch that doesn't kill my leg, an idle that doesn't shake the whole car, and my not having to watch the temp gauge like a hawk to make sure it doesnt overheat. Oh, and that it will start up just fine when I come out of the 7-11 5mins later without struggling My car almost meets all of these but the idle is a touch rough and I'm paranoid about the temps even though I shoudln't have to be First and foremost - buy the JTR book on the conversion. It has information on how to do this swap that's mostly sound and will give you a VERY good idea as to what's what. It's not a kindergarten book and this isn't a snap together model but it gives you as clear an instruction set as you're likely to find. Buying this book should be step #1! www.jafgsthatrun.com Might not be a bad idea to start reading Car Craft, Hot Rod, Super Chevy, Chevy High Performance, and others while you're at it. Skip the color ictures and read the tech articles - even the ones on things you won't be doing. Learn the language and what things are.... Weights, I'd be interested in that too. I'm dying to know what my car weighs - unfortunatly I never got it weighed before the swap Corner weights would be even better. If nothing I'd expect the steering to be a little easier on a JTR swap with less weight over the front wheels. Having the stick in the right spot was actually pretty important to me and the little bit of banging I had to do on the body was laughable. I like having the room in front of the engine too in case I decide to install a supercharger. I'm not looking for the last tenth on the track but I am looking for convenience and ease of installmaintenance. This was one easy swap in my opinion and I'm not sure there are any easier unless you count something like swapping a 5.0 for a 5.7 in a Mustang (shrug).

Umm, be aware that ordering them "new" isn't all it's cracked up to be. Last I'd heard it was a nationwide backorder item awaiting shipment from Japan - ETA "unknown". Some folks HAVE managed to get them, others haven't. This is why Mike and Ross are going to the trouble to make these brackets. As to which is the best rotor and caliper - I didn't use that setup and if you're too busy to search then I probably am too You'll probably use something like a 240SX (200SX maybe?) caliper or ZX caliper along with a 300ZX rotor. Most likely a solid rotor and probably about 11 inches around. The archives have the exact information as do some member's WEB pages last I searched. ZCar's archives have the information too including the part # for that bracket I think. Ross, you and Mike any further along with that bracket? [ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

How much do you spend to keep up any car? You change the oil, grease the chassis, maybe replace some tirm occasionally. If it rusts you must repair it etc. etc. The hardest part is going to be not modifying it further That gets expensive!

I'd have to argue that building a JTR setup requires banging the trans tunnel - certainly not with my T56. Flywheel is as big as what the T56 requires and my starter is looking a bit portly as well although it's suppposed to be a "mini". I can't speak to the weight aspect though and would LOVE to see some corner weights of a Scarab setup car. Let's also remember that where the stick comes up in a Scarab based stick car is a decent amount FORWARD of where you might like it. With the JTR setback the stick is centered nearly perfectly I will say this though - swapping in a V8 to a Z is pretty easy on the scale of automotive projects. I'm NOT a super-mechanic by ANY stretch and I did it using the JTR manual and some help here. I did nearly ALL of the work on my own using a built motor. Heck, I swung the motor over the fender and into the car by myself one late night. My only previious experience had been bolt-on stuff on my Mustang and pullingreinstalling that car's motor. This was as easy if not easier than doing that stuff but having an experienced friend around would be a good idea.... Edit: DUH, does NOT require much banging of th etunnel (smack!!) [ October 12, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

I too used Lokar - was cake. Cable has stretched a touch but it's not too bad. Put a fender washer on the firewall to make the hole smaller (polished stainless ). Have a friend help tighten it - was easy to adapt to the throttle cable but you might want to trim a bit off the bottom of the pedal - mine wanted to catch the carpet...

Yeah, strengthening the frame is probably a good idea or over time it'll twist. Sunroof won't help that either. Dunno if that was a factory option but I'm betting not - I believe T-tops were. Likely installed at the dealer as an add-on option....

You're going to have damper, flywheel, and dipstick issues. You heard correctly about the balance issues and the accessory problems. I believe there's a damper that can be used though and you'd have to use the 289 flywheel or have one rebalanced. Not sure what to do about the dipstick - drilling into the block doesn't sound atractive. Check with "Windsor Fox" for some solutions. Those guy specialize in retrofitting older Mustangs with newer EFI motors and will probably have some answers for you. Frankly I think sticking to a later model 5.0 would be better all aorund - why is the 289 attractive in this case?

Hrm, I'm not so sure you could easily get it strong enough. I've seen V8 turbos that have expanded PVC from the pressure - a link to such a beast was posted not too long ago. I'd put PVC strength over 'glass so.... Maybe carbon fiber? The V8 was only running like 15PSI too - I think they said pressure was something like 50lbs per square inch at that boost pressure but I'm not sure of the math.

Hrm, the SCC buildup is over the top IMO. You don't need to goto their extent to have a serious TTZ. IF I had a turbo Z I wouldn't drop a V8 in it however if it was a N/A Z with a blown motor... One of the members here is working on just such a swap but I don't think he's updated lately. Do a search and you may find his posts about it - one very pretty Z with a toasted N/A motor. Apparently the motor fits but I don't know where he's at with the swap right now. Stony, was it you?

So, other headlights aren't done that way? Horn is the same way, so is the turn signals?! Why in the world would you build a car with a common ground and then switch GROUND to turn on so many things?! Isn't that bassackwards? Parking lights aren't that way but brake indicator is and so is the highbeam indicator (sigh). Dome lights too. The list is endless - the e-brake and dome light I think I can understand but the rest?

Okay, having trouble hunting up my engine's specs 1972 240Z (red) 383 SBC - Eagle crank, Eagle rods, Edelbrock aluminum heads (straight plug), forged pistons - Ross or Probe with about 9.5:1 compression, Victor RPM intake, Holly Avenger 770 carb, Edelbrock aluminum water pump, roller rockers, Acell billet distributor, Acell 300+ ignition, Flowtech block huggers 15/8ths to 2.5inch pipes to a single 3inch through a Sebring stainless muffler. I'll be adding 2 Dynomax bullets and 13/4 Rewarder headers "soon". Flat tappet hydraulic cam - specs are posted here somewhere. Need to find those specs darn it. Dynoed 300RWHP but I'm pretty sure the secondaries weren't opening. T56 trans, stock style replacement clutch. 3.7 R200LSD diff. Denny's Driveshaft cro-moly driveshaft. Holly "blue" pump and regulator. Braided -8 to the front. 4coil-over struts (SCCA's stuff) w/Tokico carts. Stock length struts for now. 17X8 Konig 5.0 wheels (5lug) 225/45 Nittos up front 245/45 Nitto 555 drag radials in back 12X1.25 brakes up front w/Outlaw 4piston calipers. 11inch solid rotors in back with Outlaw 2piston calipers. (SCCA's stuff again) We're still working on an E-brake solution. 8pt mild steel cage, Triangle 10gallon aluminum fuel cell. Battery in back in an aluminum box. Phantom gauges in all stock locations. Howe radiator, Cobra fan. Spolier up front, 'glass cowl hood (SubtleZ), MSA 'glass bumpers. Dynamat everywhere. I think that's it Not much "stock" left anymore. Have no idea what it'll run. Yet to be done is CVs in back and EFI of some sort. Have a spare intake to modify but may use a different one and have NO idea what ECU to use. Trying to quiet it down right now and get some bugs straightened out...

Spotfitz is right - I had trouble too. Pry on it a little. When mine dropped it scared the crap out of me since I was right under it! DO make sure the mount is tight on it as once it's installed it can be a bear to tighten. Sounds like you've got it right - how close is it to lining up? Within say 3/4inch or so?

Heh, I started to mention the DRs too but I couldn't recall what the speed rating is. I've found they drive just like regular radials but seem to be much stickier. I can hear them chucking rocks up into the wheelwells whenever I hit any gravel - stuff just sticks to them Would mean running 17s though and it sounds like he's got 15s. Unfortuntly they don't seem to make them in a smaller wheel size. They also make a 24545 which will fit in the stock Z wheelwell with careful offset seleciton.

Hrmph, note my emphasis on wiring things carefully Interesting that I thought the black wire was ground - in reality I think that's the wire that supplies a constant 12volts and is wired to the "ground" or common wire on the Painless harness. I wonder if it's possible that even after noting the wires etc. that I STILL screwed it up? If anyone is about to undertake this on a 240 I can share wire colors etc. to try and make it easier to do. The dark wire is the constan hot, the redwhite and redother color are the switched grounds. One is highbeam, the other low...

I'm not sure that you'd find enough details to do the swap but if you explore around on that site you'll find lot's of articles and tech tips that I think are pretty good. They seem to update fairly often and to actually have as much tech stuff as many mags combined. If this is a swap you're seriously considering then the $10 might be a worthwile investment. Heh, anyone here already have a subscription that could tell him if it's worth it?

Some articles worth reading - not Z specific - are onthis page -> http://www.autospeed.com/S_technical/show_free/section.html Several things about aero in there including pics in tunnels etc. Might give some help to ya' all.

Try and find a place that salvages motorcycles. Lot's of sport bikes have sporty fillers. Cobra kit car manufacturers also have some flip top fillers but they migh be too bulky looking.

C4 has no overdrive though, it would scream on the highway. Talk to Level10 or Bauman Engineering (sp?) for AOD upgrades. Some of the AODs built right have been used to handle far more HP than any of us are putting out. One of them was a race car built by Bauman - bright yellow. I think it's been retired now to street duty but it was raced with an AOD. No lockup if I recall and it was pretty trick including a brake if memory serves. Like the 700R it can be built to take the abuse. Come to think of it - the 700R4 has been put behind a small block before so that's an option too if you can find the maker of the adapters. I think Kenny Brown did this or Kenny Bell? I'd not build a V8Z without an overdrive if it's going to see street driving...

Use an etching primer before you paint. I used it and while th epaint has gotten chipped th eprimer hangs in there - it's awesome. I don't have the name of it handy but it's mean to be sprayed - I used foam brushes Powder coating is another good option - done right that stuff is incredible!

That's one of the few WEB sites out there that actually is good enough to warrant a subscription. Their tech articles are usually damned good. Lot's of info on that site. Would love to read the rest of that article! P.S. The Aero information on this page should be of interest to more than a few of us -> http://www.autospeed.com/A_1071/page1.html Several good articles there... [ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

I like MAFs myself, instead of inferring airflow they actually measure it. However when running boost you'll end up reading the MAP sensor too I'd think. Suggest you check out the LT1Edit folks and pick their brains or those of their customers - I'm pretty sure they have a WEBBoard too. MAF sensors for GM are pretty much only available through Granatelli who has an exclusive with Pro-M. I think Bob Atwood just died though so no telling what will occur now MAFs have a definate range. Flow more air than they can measure and you max them out - hitting the top of their voltage range. At that point you DO set a code - Mustangs flash the check engine light too. There's bound to be ways around that though either with a bigger MAF (?) or with programming. The Procharged LT1 guys ought to be able to help. Worse comes to worse switch it to a MAP setup or custom computer. Not sure how easily an OEM MAP sensed system is programmed - not with LT1Edit I'm pretty sure. You'd be at someone else's mercy most likely

Hrm, does this change anything in the article? Yeah, it probably does - I need to reread it and see. The more I think about it the more irritated I get. I can remember leaving pigtails of wire on both the stock and Painless harness so that I could look at the wire colors with the two plugs together and get the wiring "right". I either screwed up stupidly or the wiring was whacky from Painless for this application. Is my article up now? I'll hunt it down and reread it Turn signal stuff... Redid my measurements of the wires back there. I DO see some voltage pulsing back there on the lamp side of the plug. Get this - that sucker switches ground too! I put my meter on tone, touched it to ground, and I can hear the blinker alternating ground! Weirder yet, if I hit the hazards the light BLINKS At this point I think it's the flasher module. This sucker WORKED fine forever and now it suddenly stops? Methinks that the blinker module is th emost likely culprit and I'll check it out when I get a chance to hit PepBoys etc. What a PITA but at least I'm not blinding anyone. My secondaries MAY be opening now too. Hard to tell but the little clip moved a bit and I think I might have felt them tipping in. Nose really rises when I hit the gas in 2nd May dyno it again and see when I'm more sure, possibly put a camera over the carb and film it to be sure

Some info -> http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/8/12/ I'm not seeing anything on KB's site about them being cast or forged in some manner but I'm thinking that they ARE indeed just cast with a different material. Hrm, I think I may like them less What process pours molten metal into a mold and strikes it? Is THAT how forging is done? Oy, going to have to speak to a friend of mine who's big into turbos, is an engineer, and shoudl now for sure. Heh, we were looking into what it would take to make a smelt not long ago Hrm, an interesting link. Scroll down to the comments on KB Hyper pistons - same experiences I've heard about! -> http://asa1000.com/Sucks.htm [ October 07, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]