kinknoppix

can you see the collant circulation when you take off the radiator cap? is that how you tell if the pump is good?

Im also curious whats the outcome?

I have read other peoples over heating problem an i did try there methods but im still getting around 200degrees it looks like. I first started out with the stock fan clutch without the shroud and it ran fine for a pretty good while, as i mean in days that i did drive her. On my other 280z motor i had the same setup an it was fine. After the over heating problem on my 280zx motor i picked up a new radiator and a used electric fan from the JY an i still used the original hoses. It really didnt improve the heat an actually got hotter and started shooting coolant out of the side hole. This will happen when i shut off the engine but does when its running. Im thinking i should get a new water pump and a better electric fan? On the other hand, i know i shouldnt do this but when the engine just starts up with the radiator cap off can you tell that the coolant is flowing? Maybe i dont have circulation?

i need the fan an clutch.

Im looking to get $100 for mine. I got it for myself to use. Its dam strait, it came out of 83 turbo with like 50K miles.

Ahh i found some but they came out to be around $50. Im still looking to spend around 15 for this lil thing ; )

So i ripped 3 rubber stock tubes that connects the throttle body to the mass sensor... I dont wanna be ghetto this time with this swap. I have tryed cutting some up but still it isnt the way i want it to look.. I was just wandering what people have used to replace this curved rubber tube with?

I have this problem and i heard you can snug on a lil filter. I have tryed this and im still leaking...Did i break some seals?

AHhhh thanks yall. That did the trick.

Ohh...sounds like my old one. I just swap motors..

Thanks ill give that a try

Anyone have a good recommendation on tightening the drive shaft bolts that go to the diff. Im having a lil problem of stripping them with a rench because i cant get a ratchet completely over the bolts.

Doing my F54 long block swap and i seem to burn out my flywheel. Its with a 4 speed into my 280z. Im not sure why it did. I tryed it with a new started and still seems to just grind it. Im looking for a cheaper fly wheel sense im over budget already but if anyone has one laying around or one for sale please contact me. My address is Texas 78734. Thanks

Thanks man. Now i think i need a new fly-wheel after starting it up with the new exhaust it doesnt seem catch. I picked up and new one and tryed it out but still the same problem. New fly-wheel? I just did a longblock swap and torched the wheel to 100. I started it up when i had my old exhaust on there and it ran fine. After changing the started, no improvement.

That will be great. Im in Austin,Texas 78734. Tell me how much total and we will finish the deal

Hello im finishing up my motor swap and i broke 2 bolts on the exhaust manifold. I just about spent every dollar i can afford so im looking for a stock N/A exhaust manifold or some headers. I live in Texas 78734 quote and picture would be nice. Thank you

The problem with my engine now that i have-- I can not rev above 2500 rpm. Terrible knocking sound or something definetly hitting something in side. It will start and idle fine..What happened was i ran it across a dam to see my MPH and after i was through i notice power loss and noise but i did make it home safely. There is no water in my oil nor do i see a oil leak....Where i live i can not take out the engine unless i get a storage place and i thought maybe getting a used motor and just droping it in will be less hassel. Maybe i can fix the problem, I do have the book"how to rebuild your nissan and datsun". Should i take it to a room and try to open it up myself and fix it? I dont have much tool but i do have a lift. I have dont little work on my car as far as replacing the cluch assisted an engine swap. I believe i can do a swap but i dont know about fixing something inside. What do you think?

The problem with my engine now that i have-- I can not rev above 2500 rpm. Terrible knocking sound or something definetly hitting something in side. It will start and idle fine..What happened was i ran it across a dam to see my MPH and after i was through i notice power loss and noise but i did make it home safely. There is no water in my oil nor do i see a oil leak....Where i live i can not take out the engine unless i get a storage place and i thought maybe getting a used motor and just droping it in will be less hassel. Maybe i can fix the problem, I do have the book"how to rebuild your nissan and datsun". Should i take it to a room and try to open it up myself and fix it? I dont have much tool but i do have a lift. I have dont little work on my car as far as replacing the cluch assisted an engine swap. I believe i can do a swap but i dont know about fixing something inside. What do you think?

bump need more input soon.

Thanks for the reply Flex. An yes that is the short block I was looking at myself... Im in need of a short block or motor around here so i dont have to pay extra for the shipping. I dont really want a used one but if i have to i will cause i cant rebuild one myself. I also won the bid on this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120401480907&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem= 450 shipped to Austin. Any more input anyone?

Has any heard of or used this company called- JIS Japan Engine .. http://www.jisengine.com/index.htm Im looking to buy a short block and this is what i am leaning towards. The reason i want to buy from them is cause i can go pick it up myself in Texas. The company has been around for like 20 years and there customer service is great. Any input about this company?

I got a s13 throttlebody for a short block. : )

Thanks yall i have decided to find another l28 bottom end. I feel that is the problem.

Ill pull the cover off tonight after work but a cold front came in with rain.... Ill update and have a video up by tonight. Thanks yall