Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About swtjames23

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eureka, CA
  1. Yep, I got a clutch for a Corvette as well. Thanks for the advice. And Miles, if you don't want to take the time to answer my question then don't take the time to write anything at all, thanks.
  2. When I look up a clutch for the motor's vehicle, it's a 10 spline, I need 26. When I look up a clutch for the transmission's vehicle, it gives me a 10.5" clutch, I need an 11". I know a 10.5" will fit but I thought I might as well get an 11" since my flywheel and pressure plate are that big.. Will any 11", 26 spline clutch for a Chevy (i.e. Corvette) work?
  3. Wow, thank you Miles. That was one all inclusive, concise answer. I suppose I'll look for a T5 that includes the bell housing. You say you had a saginaw? How was your speedo hooked up?
  4. This is probably a stupid/simple question to most of you but I'm still learning. I currently have a 400 sbc from a '79 C30 pickup mated to a Saginaw 4 speed, my question is should a WC T5 from an 88-92 f-body bolt right up (to my existing bellhousing) in place of the Saginaw? I understand I'll have driveshaft, shifter, speedo, etc. to play with, I'm just wondering if I'll need a different bellhousing..
  5. Ok so I did some more reading, most Z owners say their fenders are around 26-27" from the ground with stock tires. My fenders are 25.25" in front and 25.75" in the back, I'm pretty sure this thing is lowered. Also, I won't likely find any markings. It looks like everything is covered in undercoating.
  6. Here's a pic of the stance, does it look lowered to you guys?
  7. I was actually thinking of going with 27" (215/75r14) tires in just the rear, keep the stockers in front. Coilovers would be great, thank you for the advice, they're just not in my budget at the moment.
  8. I realize it's hard to tell from the pictures, I couldn't get a good angle especially on the second one. But the parts car (the black one) sits about 5/8" higher than the silver one. Same size tires, same size rims, relatively similar tread on both tires and nothing significant (weight-wise) is missing from the parts car. If anything, the parts car (the taller one) could be sagging somewhat because I can see it has noticeable negative camber. By the way, the reason I want stock height is for taller tires. I'm running a 400 SBC, 4 speed (1:1 4th) with the 3.54 r180
  9. Also, any thoughts on the idea of using 280 lowering springs on a 240?
  10. Ok, rags, so maybe these stock springs/struts are just worn out? And if I were to replace my struts and springs with new OEM type replacements, it should return to stock height?
  11. Title says it all, I'd like to replace the springs and struts in the front (and the rear) but I'd like to keep the ride height as close to stock as I can. Does anyone have experience with using 280Z lowering springs on a 240? Would that work? Any advice is appreciated. The car is a '73 240Z with a '79 400 small block and Saginaw 4 speed. All the suspension appears stock right now and the front sags quite a bit compared to my parts car with the stock L24 motor. Thanks
  12. Problem solved! Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. It was, in fact, the negative battery connection. It has those cheap clamp on connectors with the two bolts to clamp the cable to the connector, it was all corroded under there. Good call Redwine and NewZed and thanks to everyone else for the ideas. Can I solder the cable to these cheap bolt-on connectors? Or do I need to buy different connectors?
  13. Headlights don't work after trying to start. Something trips when I try to crank, then if i wait for 30 seconds or so.. Or if i break the ground connection and reconnect it, power comes back on. This is so weird.
  14. Ok, so the problem is not fixed. I've replace the starter and still no-go. When I turn the key, the starter gets power but only for a split second and then a relay on the firewall clicks and I lose all power. Same thing happens if I jump the solenoid directly to the starter. In order to restore power, I have to remove the ground from the battery and put it back on. Does this make sense to anyone? I could really use some more advice. Thanks, James
  15. So, I had the starter tested and it works fine. Now I'm really stumped. I'm going to replace it with a new mini starter anyhow because it's such a chore to get to but what else should I be checking? Ignition? Are there relays somewhere that may have gone bad? I apologize for the ignorance, I'm brand new to small blocks and to Z cars. Thanks for your time.
  • Create New...