[400 SBC + T5 which clutch?]

Yep, I got a clutch for a Corvette as well. Thanks for the advice.

 

And Miles, if you don't want to take the time to answer my question then don't take the time to write anything at all, thanks.

[400 SBC + T5 which clutch?]

When I look up a clutch for the motor's vehicle, it's a 10 spline, I need 26. When I look up a clutch for the transmission's vehicle, it gives me a 10.5" clutch, I need an 11". I know a 10.5" will fit but I thought I might as well get an 11" since my flywheel and pressure plate are that big.. Will any 11", 26 spline clutch for a Chevy (i.e. Corvette) work?

[T5 bellhousing question]

Wow, thank you Miles. That was one all inclusive, concise answer. I suppose I'll look for a T5 that includes the bell housing. You say you had a saginaw? How was your speedo hooked up?

[T5 bellhousing question]

This is probably a stupid/simple question to most of you but I'm still learning. I currently have a 400 sbc from a '79 C30 pickup mated to a Saginaw 4 speed, my question is should a WC T5 from an 88-92 f-body bolt right up (to my existing bellhousing) in place of the Saginaw?

 

I understand I'll have driveshaft, shifter, speedo, etc. to play with, I'm just wondering if I'll need a different bellhousing..

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

Ok so I did some more reading, most Z owners say their fenders are around 26-27" from the ground with stock tires. My fenders are 25.25" in front and 25.75" in the back, I'm pretty sure this thing is lowered.

 

Also, I won't likely find any markings. It looks like everything is covered in undercoating.

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

Here's a pic of the stance, does it look lowered to you guys?

 

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

I was actually thinking of going with 27" (215/75r14) tires in just the rear, keep the stockers in front. Coilovers would be great, thank you for the advice, they're just not in my budget at the moment.

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

I realize it's hard to tell from the pictures, I couldn't get a good angle especially on the second one. But the parts car (the black one) sits about 5/8" higher than the silver one. Same size tires, same size rims, relatively similar tread on both tires and nothing significant (weight-wise) is missing from the parts car. If anything, the parts car (the taller one) could be sagging somewhat because I can see it has noticeable negative camber. 

 

 

 

 

 

By the way, the reason I want stock height is for taller tires. I'm running a 400 SBC, 4 speed (1:1 4th) with the 3.54 r180 and this thing is like a tractor. Taller tires are the cheapest and easiest way I can think of to make this thing a little more freeway friendly. If nothing else, I at least don't want the front to ride any lower and I do want to improve the suspension. Again, any and all advice appreciated.

 

Thanks

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

Also, any thoughts on the idea of using 280 lowering springs on a 240?

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

Ok, rags, so maybe these stock springs/struts are just worn out? And if I were to replace my struts and springs with new OEM type replacements, it should return to stock height?

[How to get stock height with a 400 SBC?]

Title says it all, I'd like to replace the springs and struts in the front (and the rear) but I'd like to keep the ride height as close to stock as I can. Does anyone have experience with using 280Z lowering springs on a 240? Would that work? Any advice is appreciated.

 

The car is a '73 240Z with a '79 400 small block and Saginaw 4 speed. All the suspension appears stock right now and the front sags quite a bit compared to my parts car with the stock L24 motor.

 

Thanks

[400 SBC starter problems]

Problem solved! Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. It was, in fact, the negative battery connection. It has those cheap clamp on connectors with the two bolts to clamp the cable to the connector, it was all corroded under there. Good call Redwine and NewZed and thanks to everyone else for the ideas.

 

Can I solder the cable to these cheap bolt-on connectors? Or do I need to buy different connectors?

[400 SBC starter problems]

Headlights don't work after trying to start. Something trips when I try to crank, then if i wait for 30 seconds or so.. Or if i break the ground connection and reconnect it, power comes back on. This is so weird.

[400 SBC starter problems]

Ok, so the problem is not fixed. I've replace the starter and still no-go. When I turn the key, the starter gets power but only for a split second and then a relay on the firewall clicks and I lose all power. Same thing happens if I jump the solenoid directly to the starter. In order to restore power, I have to remove the ground from the battery and put it back on.

 

Does this make sense to anyone? I could really use some more advice.

 

Thanks,

James

[400 SBC starter problems]

So, I had the starter tested and it works fine. Now I'm really stumped. I'm going to replace it with a new mini starter anyhow because it's such a chore to get to but what else should I be checking? Ignition? Are there relays somewhere that may have gone bad? I apologize for the ignorance, I'm brand new to small blocks and to Z cars.

 

Thanks for your time.

[400 SBC starter problems]

Ok thanks Pete, I'll try that.

[400 SBC starter problems]

Right?! I should be able to but I can't. Starter won't come out with the header in place, header won't come out with the motor in place. Trust me, I've stared at it for hours. Is there any way to be absolutely sure that the starter is the problem without removing it?

[400 SBC starter problems]

Hey guys, been lurking/learning for a little while from old threads, thanks to all of you for all the great info I've used already. This is my first post because I can't seem to find anyone with the same problem. The car is my first Z and is a '73 240Z with a 400 sbc (stock w/ headers) and a Saginaw 4 speed.

 

I took the car for a short drive one night, parked it, came out the next morning and it won't start.  When I turn the key to "start" the starter bendix gear engages the flywheel but does not turn. When I jump the starter solenoid to the short post, same thing happens. When I jump it to the long post, nothing happens. From what I've read, when I jumped the solenoid to the "long" post, the starter should have turned, right?

 

Also, when it fails to start, a relay clicks and won't reset until I disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect. Is this normal?

 

I'd like to be sure the starter is the problem, I'll have to unbolt the motor, jack it up, take off the header and spark plugs and remove the starter solenoid from the starter before it will come out.

 

Thanks,
James