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CRAracer05

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Posts posted by CRAracer05

  1. Wow for your first big jump into body work you are doing some really high quality work. Before listing those flares off your parts car for sale you should consider transferring them to your car. Little like that from ztrix.com and go for 2k with everything. Plus that one already looks awesome it's just too bad the car is in such rough shape.

     

    Thanks, I actually have a bunch of new photos to upload. I just got rid of my part car yesterday, but I kept everything off it besides the seats, and rear interior panels.Hopefully I will get them uploaded sometime this week.

  2. Slow progress but here some pictures of what has been going on. Still lots of grinding to do but I,m trying to stay ositiove and just keep moving forward.

     

    20150428_184929_1.jpg

     

    Major battery box area rot that was patched with fiberglass by the previous owner :(

     

    20150518_183828.jpg

     

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    Firewall repairs to follow. While is was cut open I coated the inside of frame with Eastwood Rust Converter and then Rust Encapsulater, and now waiting for everything to cure before I seal it back up.

     

    20150524_153232.jpg

     

    Start of of the repairs to the frame bracing area towards the front of the car.

     

    20150518_183733.jpg

     

    Hole patched with new metal.

     

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    New braced burned in and lower cross-member skin removed.  Inside of the radiator support was treated first with Eastwood Rust Converter then Rust Encapsulater.

     

    20150622_184332.jpg

  3. Has anyone ever used the EMPI HPMX carburetors on a Datsun before? I tried to do some searching and couldn't find much of anything?

     

    http://vwcatalog.empius.com/vwcatalog/2014/60.html

     

    https://www.youtube.com/user/EMPIHPMX/feed

     

    They are mostly used on VW air cooled engines, but I don't see why you couldn't just bolt them right up. They have a few videos showing dyno results where they made a few more HP than there Weber equivalents.

     

    060.jpg

  4. Well it finally got nice enough for me to go pick up my parts car. My father in-law was generous enough to give his 76 280z as that he has owned since 1978. We were going to fix it this year but when we jacked it up in storage we found that are absolutely no frame rails, or floor boards left. The inner fenders, rockers and quarters are all gone as well. We towed it to my house yesterday so I can take what I need from it. The main things I need right now are the hood and the roof/windshield channel. 

     

    DSC_4330.jpg

     

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  5. I am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1976 280z. I am located near Youngstown Ohio and would prefer large items to be within driving distance. Send me a message and we can discuss anything you may have. Items I'm looking for as follows:

     

    1. ZG flares
    2. Z432 rear spoiler or BRE
    3. Ground control coil-overs (280z)
    4. Camber Plates
    5. Toyota Front brakes vented or non-vented setups
    6. Rear Disc Conversion
    7. MSA 6-2 Headers (coated)
    8. MSA Twice pipes
    9. Fender Mirrors
    10. Rota RB stagger package wheels (black or gunmetal)
    11. Triple Carb setup (complete)
    12. Ignition Box
    13. Universal Fuse box and or Wiring Harness
    14. 5-Speed Transmission 280Z or ZX
    15. R200 LSD
    16. Flat top pistons (new not used)
    17. Cam (new not used)
  6. Well progress is slow between work and school, but I managed to make some more progress and get the driver's quarter panel patched. Keep in mind this is the first car I have done bodywork this extensive on, and I still to rebuild the inner portion as it was pretty rusty as well.

     

    20150308_184443.jpg

     

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    20150308_184538.jpg

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    20150322_175320.jpg

  7. It has been a few weeks, but I made some more progress finally. I managed to get both of the rear quarter sections semi repaired with new sheet metal. I treated the insides of the quarter panels first with a coat of Eastwood's Rust Converter then two coats of Rust Encapsulater while the sections were cut out. I also tried to make the patches some what lower than the actual sheet metal in an attempt to allow for less filler when blending in the repairs. I just need to make the inside vertical sections next. Overall I feel confident this a much better repair than the solid chunk of Bondo I removed from both sides of the car that had been used to fix it previously.

     

    20150215_002616.jpg

     

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  8. Anyway here is a semi-update to my build plans so far:

     

    Body:

    MSA ZG Flares

    MSA  Fairlady 432 spoiler

    Rear window louvers

    Headlight covers

     

    Suspension:

    Ground control coilovers

    Unsure on struts right now if any one has recommendations

    Camber plates (undecided on bolt-in or weld in)

    Car has an upgraded front sway bar already I will be reusing

     

    Wheels & Brakes:

    Silvermine Motors Stage 3 or 4 front brakes (still not sure which I want)

    Silvermine Motors Rear Disc brake conversion

    Rota RB Stagger package 17x8.5/9.5 (Black or Royal Gunmetal)

    Hydraulic hand/emergency brake

    Wilwood proportioning Valve

    (possible 15/16 master cylinder upgrade)

     

    Drivetrain:

    L28

    4-speed

    Stock R200 open Diff

    MSA 6-3-2 coated headers

    MSA Twin Pipes

    Ebay intake with a real filter

     

    Interior:

    Painted no carpet, factory dash (possible aluminum door panels)

    Procar Drifter series seats

    (gauges undecided on Autometers or Speedhut)

     

    Things I'm considering right now are doing a mild build of the L28 if the budget allows. Plans would be cast flat top pistons, ported head, Isky .490 cam(not sure if factory fuel injection would like this). Also considered Carb swap. If I sell my 94 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD I might consider a RB25 swap with McKinney Motorsports swap parts instead. I really would like to make the car 5-speed if I keep the L28, but that is more money not required right now. I also want a better differential with shorter gears and lsd, but they are also big money. As I am getting another 76 280z parts car I may just weld one of the diffs up for now and see how I like it. I also want to replace the body harness with a universal Painless harness or just custom make one.

  9. Little more progress over the holidays but nothing major yet.

     

    Rear end out and disassembled.

     

    20150104_015854.jpg

     

    20150104_015847.jpg

     

    Started replacing metal, my first attempt and I don't think its too bad. I under sized the patch to allow for minimal filler/blending.

     

    20150104_013916.jpg

     

    20150104_015624.jpg

     

    My wife started removing undercoating on the front of the car.

     

    20150104_015828.jpg

  10. Worked on the car some last night mainly took the exhaust and intake manifolds off to investigate the motor a little bit. The intake manifold and intake ports are slightly gasket matched but there doesn't appear to be any real port work done on the head. A look down the spark plug holes with a small LED light revealed a super fresh hone job but original dished pistons. Looking the oil fill cap the head looks brand new like it was just rebuilt. Appears to a stock cam based on wear pattern. I also got the transmission pulled and my wife pulled the seat and harnesses out. I also got some pictures of the fuel cell and cage.

     

    rollcage_3.jpg

     

     

    rollcage_2.jpg

     

     

    fuel_cell1.jpg

     

     

    cylinderhead_2.jpg

     

     

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  11. My ultimate goal will be to hopefully get some track time and I am definately looking at upgrading the brakes. The AMC is my father in-laws Javelin AMX 401 4-speed project he has been working on. He is actually giving me his 76 280z as a parts car very soon. We lifted it up the other day and it needs full frame rails, floor pans, innner and outer rockers, quarters and hatch. The body is pretty much history besides the hood which I need for my car. He made the decision that it is far too much work to repair now. I'll have the entire spare drivetrain n42/n42 all original OEM plus 4-speed and rear diff.

     

    I don't have any really good interior pictures, I'll try to get loaded up by the weekend.

     

    IMG_100401535407842.jpeg

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