shauno

240zoom, you're in vancouver or elsewhere in B.C.? I'd love to see more pics of your project. I'm in Vancouver and now feel a little intimidated with my old turbo beast now. That engine is going to screeeaaam. Nice work so far.

I'm running 1.5'' spacers front and rear to get my wheels in the right spot. I had all the studs pressed out and installed arp 3'' studs in 1.25 pitch. They are long but I've had no issues so far. One thing to note, alot of the older porche racers use spacers to get their wheels to fill their new flares. They've been doing so for tens of years without incidence.

No, you do not get new bearings. I guess if you ask him he might do it but for a fee of course. I replaced mine while they were out and you can press them back on alot easier than removing them.

So I've got my head off, and manifolds sitting on the bench in front of me. I really didn't enjoy removing them with the turbo in the way. One thought I've had is to remove the webbing between the runners on the intake to allow access to the underside bolts and also allow the exhaust to cool quicker without heat soaking the intake as much. Do you think it would sacrifice strength? Has anyone done this? Thanks a bunch.

Some play is ok.. just make sure the tips don't touch the inside of the housing.

I'm in search of a vaccum pump from some other car, doesn't matter what make, to give my brakes a better feel. At the moment I can't even lock them up due to my low manifold pressure 10 in/hg and my large master size 300zxtt. I don't really want to change the master and I don't think a cannister will work for me cuz I just need more vacuum not volume. Has anyone used such a thing, other than the expensive units from summit? Or maybe some insight? Like I said, the master is a 300zxtt and the booster is stock 72. the front calipers are newer toyotas and the rear are 240sx. I have a proportioning valve installed and I've eliminated the stock regulator. Please help, many thanks.

No, it's not BOV. The MBC is linked to the external wastegate via a rubber hose. It sends the signal to open the valve, i think, or at least that's what I'm trying to figure out. I want to knoe how to adjust the spring on the wastegate( it's a racegate) and adjust the knob on the MBC so they work correctly together. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks, I'll try to gap them down. But how much should I go? I forgot the stock spec off hand but I'm sure I was at the lowest recomended. Thanks

It was running awesome until awhile ago it started stumbling or missing at higher RPM's. I used to be able to rev it to 7K with no problems, now it seems to hesitate and I can hear the missing through the external wastegate exit pipe. Almost like bad plugs or something. Has anyone had a similar symtom? My mixture is still in the .83-.85 lambda range and egt's are within limits. My setup: balanced 2.9 with forged internals and heavy cam. Motec controller, 450cc injectors, should be faster... Thanks.

OK, so I've got everything setup except these two guys. First off can someone explain their relation to each other. Does the controller limit the pressure to the wastegate and then once it overcomes the spring pressure it opens the valve? I've started playing with the controller but it seems that when I turn it up, the wastegate stays open a bit, kinda like an exhaust leak, once off the boost. If I let it idle for a few minutes it will close again. Do I have to increase my spring pressure to get it to close? Second, does the wastegate work by itself or does it need the controller? My boost seems to come on quite slow and then it just flatlines once I'm up to 5k rpm. Does anyone have any advice on syncronizing these two pieces? Thanks.

It seems my gallery has been moved into another area with my name followed by an underscore... If you search through the albums you'll find it like so... shauno_ You will find some nice pics there.

The wheels have the same bolt pattern as the 300zx tt. I've installed the five lug hubs up front, from an 87 300zx and had the rear stubs re-drilled with 3'' studs pressed in both front and rear. I'm using 1 1/2'' spacers on both the front and rear to get enough clearance inside to clear the strut tube. The tires are 275/40 rears and 245/45 fronts. I have about 3/16'' clearance on the inside of the rears to the strut and about and inch in the front. That is of course with coil overs.

You're right, they are OZ's... It's there champion model that was available a few years back. I do have more pics of it in my gallery but i can only upload a few pics at a time. check them out... i can always email some out if you guys are looking for more. thanks for the gratitude, it feels good to hear others appreciate the look. Any questions are always welcome.

I can't quite figure out how to post a pic here. Any one want to let me in on it? You can click the link for a look. 17x10 rear 17x8.5 front. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=1087 here you go, Mike kZ