77LS-Z

thanks, i am going to paint the car black. i am going to make the weels fit inside the stock wheel wells. the wheels in the picture were not bolted on, they were just setting in there for looks. i will run the camaro brake setup on the front and a sold axle/ladder bar setup in the rear. i will some how roll the fender lip, and flair it a bit maybe on the front for a lil more room but its gonna fit. i am going to paint the wheels to match the 35th anniversary camaro ss wheels shown in this picture.

thanks, it looks much better in person i think. and so do others. everyone like the look. so they are going on.

figured i would post my upcoming wheel setup

i see alot of people have looked at this, can more people post if they have seen this or not. i will try to get better pics, but from what you can see what do you think?

they look that way because the ground isnt flat, the wheels are laying in or out making them look funny.

ok, well, maybe i misunderstood him. i know about enlarging the opening for the rotor, but i thought he said i would need to grind the actual "mounting surface" to center the caliper on the rotor. meaning where the caliper actually bolts to the spindle. please correct me if im wrong. i will find out soon enough but i just wanted to know ahead of time.

i got bored and wanted to see what it would look like since i have never seen it done anywhere. these are the wheels i am going to run on this car. but they are dirty right now. this is a mock up but should give a good idea. looks jaguarish to me

thanks, that answered my question. so to make sure i got it straight, i have to grind down a little of the mounting surface to center the caliper on the rotor? thats no problem. thanks for helping.

well i have already read all your posts about this, and everyone elses. but no where does it mention anything special about actuall bolting the toyota calipers to the z. that is what my concern was. does it just bolt on? aside from the other adjustments needed for the rotor gap.

im not going to be doing any sanctioned racing. this is going to be a street/strip drag car. all performance is going to be orientated towards straight line acceleration. only reason i designed it this way is mainly because i think it would be easier installation. less bends, and if i reinforce the floor area, should be just as strong. this car will never see a road course, and aside from some hp induced power slides, will never see any real cornering situations. if i build the hoop as shown, i will have two main bends. and i can build a sweeping (outwards) door bar on each side. if i put the main hoop as far out as everyone else, then the door bars will be straight, and this has been proven to be an inferior design comparted to outward curving bars. with the main hoop inset between the wells, and moved back as far as it can be on the first ledge there, i have room for a decent arch in the door bar without interfering with the seating. im in no way worried about tech inspections for road racing. and this cage should be more then enough for the 10 second passes it will be makin at the strip. sound ok? or am i being hard headed?

i have searched and searched. i have spent coutless hours on hybridz just searching everything i could possibly think of. my question is this. i understand about the outer bearing, and inner grease seal. i understand about grinding out the slot for the rotor on yota caliper. my question is. how much modification does it take to bolt the caliper up? i have looked for hours and found no explanation on what it takes to get the caliper bolted down. i want to know everything there is to know before i go pullin stuff off. also. i will be running 17x9.5 2002 camaro ss 10-spoke wheels. will i need a spacer to run these on the front with this brake setup?

so should i have it open up like bjhines'. i will have door bars more then likely.

is the above drawing better?

ok, thanks. so seeing from your picture, i guess there wouldnt be any problem with mounting the main hoop where i got it in the pic. is there any benifit to having it spread out like yours does.

the strut towers will be cut out and removed. as i will be running ladder bars, and custom mount/bar for coilovers, or airshocks under the car.

here are a couple drawings of my design. i drew these up real fast in paint so dont laugh. im not a pro. please give yall insight on which type of down bars going to trunk area would be better. the straight ones or the more triangulated ones? i figure this setup would dramaicly stiffen up the chassis. add in the frame rails that i will install. does anyone see a problem with my setup?

if i do that, i will have a cross bar for seatbelts, them i will have a bar from each side go down at a angle from where the cross bar connects to the main hoop, to the top of the transmission tunnel. then i will have two bars go back to the rear most area of the trunk. i will probably have door bars also, connected to the front strut towers. not sure yet on that part of the design. i will run full lenght frame rails using 1x3 tubing. and will build boxs for the ladder bars to travle in.

i hope everyone is understading what i mean by inside the fender wells. i mean between them, instead of infront of them.

well i was going to run it inside a piece of tubing ran along side the rocker. the it would be out of the way. i could secure it up out of the way the whole way from front to back, there isnt that much wiring to be ran. the factory wires are plenty long enough. just cut them and re-route. the battery will be relocatied to the trunk. can someone tell my why it would be a bad decision to mount my main hoop inside the fender wells? i could make a large plate to weld it to, so as to better distribute the forces on the floor pan. any advice is welcomed please. i want to hear evreryones opinions.

yes, all i did was drill/grind out the spot welds, and remove the angle piece. that is what it looks like with it removed. i plan on doing a roll cage with the main hoop just inside the fenderwells. hopefully giving me more seat room and not having to bend a angle into the main hoop. allowing it to go straight up. only problem is i will have to have a bend in my door bars to meet wih the main hoop. actually there is verry little rust in this car. the floor pan/frame rail was bent up a lil on the driver side but a mini sledge fixed that. this car is extremely solid. for 600 bux. wow.

i decided to remove the piece of metal that makes the 90 degree box right behind the seats. i think it looks better that way, as i am going to sand blast the hole interior and remove all sound deadening and paint the whole floorpan front to back with bedliner spray, and will only have the door panels, and the panels that cover the sides infront of and behind the wheelwell. i will have a full cage built so im not worried about any strength that i have lost from removing this. i was wondering about putting my main hoop between the fender wells instead of infront like everyone else. should give more room for seats. also, ALL wires will be ran under the car, so that will allow the inside of thecar to stay slick with now exposed wires. please give your opinions and i will post more pictures as i progress.

i have been doing research and looking like crazy. i want to do a solid axle in this, and i have a nice set of 2002 camaro 10 spoke ss wheels. i also have a extra s-10 rear axle with 4.10 gears. it is 54.5 inchs from hub to hub. add the 3.25 inches from the mounting surface of the wheel to the outside and you have 61 inchs give or take. my wheels that are on the z measure 66 inchs from outside to outside and they stick out of fenders a hair. i have a feeling that the 2.5 inch inset will look ok if not i can put a spacer on each side. i want the wheels inset a lil because eventually i will put some nice aftermarket 17in wheels with a lip on them and this should be the perfect axle width. i will do a mini tub to clear the wheel/tire, ladder bars and a bar welded in the frame rails to mount either coil overs or hd air shocks and a track bar. i will do a swap on the front to run the ss wheels up front. i have never seen 10spoke ss wheels on a z car, but i imagine it iwll look sweet.

120+ views, few replies. not a good ratio lol.

i am within driving distance of mckinney,plano. the engine/tranny will probably come out tomorrow. i will get pictures of it removed. what is a decent price for this engine in running, but unknown condition. known good tranny. also will come with all electronics, and atleast two extra computers, one for a 75 280. and anything else i can find. will be pulling fuel tank today probably, will have that up for sell if not rusted. should i make a post in classifieds? is there enough interest in stuff?

thanks. im new to these cars. but have always loved them but could never find one worth the money. i never had alot to spend on the vehicle, i spent it all in the motor. all the ones i found were over a grand and looked like ♥♥♥♥ and had no motors. this was a great find.