Orphan

Thanks for the replies guys.

Thanks for the replies guys. EDIT: Can anyone comment as to how noticable the increase in drag is? Having a hard time finding full flares for the vehicle in question, most are similar to the ZG style flares for the Z.

Hey guys, Just a quick question, with the ZG style flares you end up with a fair amount of tire out of the body, does this have any noticable effects on drag and general aero? In any motorsport class other than open wheel they are always completely enclosed on the front and often left open at the rear to reduce pressure build up in the wheel well. Does anyone know if there are any noticable effects of having the tire sit out from the body? Regards, David

What are you planning to do for the front? Also can you either name the fenders or link to any pictures of them on a finished and painted car? I love that front to rear side shot, looks very mean.

Thanks for the replies guys. I did try a search but im not all that good finding something I can't remember where I saw that was just a stray picture. Thanks again.

Hey guys, I swear I got this picture from hybridz but I can't seem to find where or whos car this is. I'm quite interested in these flares, they seem to have a nice shape as well as being wider than the more common ZG flares around. Does anyone know whos it is / what flares these are / if there is a build thread? Thanks

Wow thanks a lot for the pic By girdle did you mean for the cylinders or for the bottom end because the bottom end is one of the best on any production engine, its a full solid cradle with 4 bolt mains. Definately new rods and pistons for that level of power. I have a bunch of pics from the nissan press release of the HR if you would like them - all quite high res. The standard crank looks pretty good to be honest so unless your going for a stroker crank in which case the VQ40 crank is rumored to fit though I don't think anyone has proved it. The VQ35HR VQ40 and VQ37's all use very very similar blocks and from what I can tell are all the same deck height etc with the main difference being the extra oil passage to run the VVEL on the VQ37VHR. Can't wait to see your engine build and thanks again for the dimensions.

Loving the build Hey Mark is there any chance you could measure the HR up for dimensions and post them? I can find dimensions for the DE but it seems the HR has a taller deck height according to the nissan press release I read on the engine so dimensions would be great if your able + help out anyone considering swapping one. Are you staying open deck or will you be using a brace or sleeves with brace like the honda boys? There seem to be several 500rwhp+ open deck 350z's running around so I wonder if its just down to putting it together right. Care to mention how much power you are after?

Sounding good mark. I'm glad to see you chose the HR as it seems to be a far better engine than the DE, I have a bunch of pull down pics of the HR and the bottom end is a very nice single cradle. It has a fair few similarities to the nissan VH range v8's to be honest and that is a beast of a bottom end for a stock car and the HR looks a little better imo. I wonder how good the stock internals are, I know it has different rods and pistons to the DE as well as a taller deck heigh which matches the VQ40 which was to allow for longer rods equalling a better rod to stroke ratio which would have been to make higher revs more reliable no doubt. I doubt the stock bottom end would like much boost as it seems they have done a fair bit to minimize rotating mass and improve NA performance but with aftermarket parts that thing should be a beast. Better redline at 8,000+ Gotta love old rules, definately one of the things drawing me to the 240 for modification. Its getting to the point over here you can't have a front mount without getting it engineered. The wheel looks quite nice, did someone get inspired by audi rims? They are quite a nice stock rim, on the rs4 etc. Got specs for the rims? Dare I ask how much they will cost haha? I imagine manufacturing wise a two peice would be much cheaper to build, any comments?

Hey mark, Any updates? hehe. I'm guessing this is going to be a track only car or are you going to get it road registered as well? Would you be willing to share info about the HR once you start the engine build? David

Is there an M104 tech website or something I can do a bit of reading. In regards to John I don't think this has been turned into what is the best engine as its more discussing bang for buck out of different engines but obviously varies country to country. MAG in regards to the RB25 box they are quite expensive here as well, easy enough to get a hold of but your still looking at $1500-2000 kind of money and considering you can easily get a T56 (double overdrive) for a few hundred used and will hold similar power not to mention being a six speed and having a far better top end gear ratio for highway cruising. I hate the fiddling around with making custom bell housings though as most nissan boxes have the bellhousing and trans casing in one so its pretty hard to get one to drill for another trans.

Mag58, my post wasnt to say just do an RB or JZ as much to just show that they are a well know and able engine. I really like to see people using other engines and what I would really like to see is someone put a 13B REW into a S30, that would be a crazy little car. RBs are definately a lot more attractive over here I must say but the prices can still be pretty crazy, who knows you might find the Merc engine to be better value for money overall or possibly a better engine with internals. One thing that would be interesting to know is the weight of the M104 series, the biggest down fall to me of the JZ and RBs are very heavy engines for the capacity.

I havent seen to much about the M104 but honestly the 2JZ and RB series are just as capable the main difference imo is the capacity of the M104, bigger capacity = more able bottom end torque and seeing as the Z is light enough I dont think this matters to most people. It is most definately interesting to see other engines and learn about them - just saying the 2J and RB are still more than able to rev to 9-10k or be tuned for low end torque. Cams tuning and turbo choice all affect power and torque delivery but most people seem to go for a nice smooth power and toque band right up to redline. Most of the RB26 30s down here using a GT3540 are making 700nm+ at around 320rwkw or about 430rwhp with peak torque relatively low and most of the graphs I have seen show over 450nm @ 3000rpm with most hitting peak torque between 4750 and 5500ish. Here is an example, I can pull up at least another 15 charts from different cars if people are interested or just check out the RB30 hybrid resuts thread on skylinesaustralia.com. Now i'm not hugely trusting of many dynos etc but every single dyno has shown 800nm+ out of these things so they can be pretty potent not to mention break pretty much everything behind the engine haha.

You can get them cheaper then that and they are very common being in the R31 skyline as well as a local manufacturer Holden's sedan of the day and later being offered in the Patrol, my step brother still has his old R31 sitting out back of his place, could probably get the engine for free as he is never going to finish it haha. The main issue with them is getting the right block, there seem to be 2 different types from my reading one which has oil in/out for the turbo and the other that doesn't so obviously the first is the one you want. Its only being in Australia or NZ that makes the RB26/30 a competative price option to the 2J as you can get the 3L bottom end for sub $300 + $1200ish for a 26 head and from there its rods pistons rings bolts crank collar pumps etc etc but really nothing more than you would be doing to build a regular RB26 but instead of forking out 4.5k+ just for the engine you have a build engine for that price or less.

Amazing build.

Over here in Australia the 2J's are still pretty expensive for a decent condition engine which makes the RB26/30 swap a much better option. Honestly considering its a 240z I like the idea of keeping it a nissan under the hood but you do have to look at the cost benifit. As long as your not aiming for more than ~500rwhp I would say go for the 2JZ easy, once you start going over that you will need new pistons and rods just like the RB and then the costs fly up to the point either engine will cost loads. The only issue you will run into is needing to swap in a supra diff as the ratios are a bit funky when running on a more standard ratio rear end. The 2J has the capacity advantage, the internals for all intensive purposes are as good or better than the RB26 standard for standard and all you really need is injectors, single turbo kit, front mount etc etc and you will have an easy reliable 450rwhp+ for a fair bit less than using an RB26 given the prices you have quoted. Another consideration is where do you want the power and what kind of redline are you after, the RB26 has a 73.7 stroke and on standard rods bolts and pistons seems fine to rev to 8,000 on the standard internals valve springs considered. The 2JZ has a stroke of 86mm and while plenty short to rev to the same RPM I wouldn't really push a stock one past 7,500ish, built bottom end and the field levels out a lot between the two engines. I would assume both weigh around the same as both are similar size and construction. I am planning to put together an RB26/30 once I get a hold of a 240, can pick up a full 3L engine for $300ish, just get the block checked and machined and there is a few hundred more and put some pauter rods and decent pistons in it with an RB26 head and a single turbo set up and your laughing for under the same price as buying a full standard RB26 in Australia.

Hey guys, I had a search around and couldn't find much of anything relating to rear subframe swaps. Has anyone done a rear subframe swap or researched it. You can get a full rear subframe from a silvia/skyline/etc for less than most of the CV and R200 diff kits so I guess it comes down to if any of them fit properly/have the proper geometry with the strut towers and how involved it is to do. Does anyone have any thoughts on what you would have to consider if attempting this? At first I thought the hub to hub distance would be an issue but then realised that doesn't matter too much as you can just get different offset wheels the real issue is the strut/coilover as its not much good putting a subframe in if the coilovers don't even meet up with the wish bones right. The only other consideration I can think of is height of the subframe, obviously the closer to stock height the better as it should keep the car sitting right rather than being lifted at the back or ending up with even less ground clearance. If any of this has been done I'd love a link to the website/thread as I couldn't find anything on it. The only thing I have seen was a series on youtube from a european country and a workshop of guys doing up a 240z and they used a R33 rear subframe in theirs though they did cut off all the standard framing and weld on new steel square as well as new mounting points for the subframe. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply I thought it might be the case as I have never seen it on any other car.

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone has any more pictures of the red car below and also knows who makes the front bar on this car or if it is custom. I really like how it meets up with the flares. Also does anyone know what ZG flares are on the car? Many I have seen seem to deform a bit and have kinks and not be smooth when attatched to the body but these ones look mint and even have a slight edge on them as well as a slightly curved surface. Thanks guys.

Thanks

I have found plenty bolt on pictures but none of the ZG flares actually fibreglassed onto the body. Does anyone know of any?

Hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone has any pictures of ZG flares blended to the body rather than bolted on. Just interested to see what it looks like. Any other blended flare would also be interesting to see but I'm mainly interested in the ZG. Thanks guys. David

Hey Rob, Hows the car going, would love to see any update pics if you have some David

I've seen the bullet manifolds, they are pretty decent but totally overpriced. All you really need is to get some laser cut flanges and you can do the rest with a welder and angle grinder haha. If your handy with cad and get a file for intake ports and location you could easily draw up a manifold and have most of it cust out via laser and just weld it together. If you don't want to fabricate your own I would just send Neil an e-mail at rush imports or check out soarer central and look in the supercharged section, I remember there being 2-3 cast manifold options floating around though all were pretty pricey for what you get. I think a big single set up would be a bit more cost effective than a supercharger set up if you can do your own manifolds, even if you do a more log style manifold i've seen some very good response and power figures out of them - that said for back pressure reasons you'd be better off running two T28's or something of that size with 3" dump pipes and 3" cat back. I indeed have heard of adaptronic and have fooled around in the tuning software which isn't half bad and the ECU's are quite affordable. Neil got his dyno not all that long ago and seems to be doing well, he had tuned adaptronics in the past and last I spoke to him he went to some haltech courses so he at least knows his way around them. I believe he also tuned the twin turbo v8 soarer that I spoke of before. An RPM switch would be able to activate it I just can't remember if the ECU controlls it at all besides on and off. I will try to dig up the PDF about it. 1JZ's are great because they are dirt cheap, 2JZ's cost a fair bit but if you can get an engine with the 6 speed for a reasonable price you have a pretty much unbreakable combo but its still quite heavy in lighter cars and I don't like your odds of getting a 2J engine and transmission for anything under 4.5k in decent condition. I will most definately go with a VH or VQ engine, both are lighter than the iron straight 6's and shorter. They do tend to play god at the pits. I thinks just because they are the only place that can approve stuff so they think they are big shots. As for the engineers the prices they charge in Aus are rediculous, over in NZ its sub $500 to get a full car engineered for road use and the laws are laxer, its not so much you can have wheels up to 1" bigger than standard etc its based on if its safe on the road and structurally sound etc. I've seen people charge as much as $300 to item needing to be engineered in NSW, for what, 15 mintues of their time and ticking a box saying a intercooler meets requirements.. you can tell they are really working hard for that money. Is the ZG nose that classic almost ferrari looking front end with headlight covers etc? I have to admit i've never been a big fan of bristish racing green on a road car but it will definately look like a classic with that nose on a Z. I'll definately send you an e-mail next time I head down to Canberra. I totally agree it doesn't feel like a really overgrown city, so far I've been quite happy living here. We are actually looking for a new place at the moment and have found a nice 4 Bedroom place about 6 mins drive from the CBD and work for a reasonable price - I haven't really been experiencing the city all that much as I live a bit far north at the moment but I'm quite keen on the location as its walking distance to the largest food market in Brisbane. I love shopping at food markets, its so much better and cheaper than any supermarket and its a fun outing not waiting in line for 10 mins trying to get home. Still looking for a 260, most around Brisbane are very over priced (ie restored haha) but i've been able to find a few out near my dads place up north that are well priced, next time I go out there I will have to check some out - I don't like my odds of getting one with minimal rust though, I really don't want to have to replace too much of the body if I can help it. A funny thing is my favorite part of the 260 would have to be the dash, I remember the first time I was in a 260 and saw that dash I really wanted the car haha. Tony you don't happen to know how much a stock 260 weighs do you? I've heard all sorts of things and its obviously between the 1068kg of the 240 and the ~1300kg of the 280. I'm hoping its on the lighter side, most things I have read point to around 1100kg.

I have his website bookmarked haha. There is a fair bit of info on lextreme, soarer central and v-eight.com relating to supercharging 1UZ's. If you source a used supercharger and can do a bit of fabrication yourself it can be quite affordable depending on if you use an off the shelf intake manifold or make your own. The biggest issue is the 1UZ has something around a 10:1 CR which means you can't push as much boost into it without running an intercooler. I would honestly consider a front mounted single turbo on a 1UZ in a S30, there is heaps of room up there and you can easily intercool it but it obviously doesn't give instant response though with a well chosen turbo the 4L capacity is plenty to get good boost on by 2,000 rpm. Neil at rush imports did a basic twin turbo set up on a soarer with stock un-opened engine. From memory the turbos with a chinese knock off T28 and on a rough tune it was making around 400rwhp on lowish boost. The reason I steered clear of the RB idea is the weight and length, while it sticks to the general Z idea of the straight 6 they are rather heavy engines due to the iron block, its also pretty hard to find an affordable engine in good condition. I still see RB26's + gear box going for well over 4.5k in very average condition and you still have to spend quite a lot fitting it and replacing parts etc. I'm still researching the VQ30DET as there is hardly any information around on it but as its lighter shorter and sits lower and is cheaper than or comparable to an RB set up it seems a good option. The 1UZ isn't really much bigger than a VQ either, mostly just a bit longer. Haha the ACT pits are not fun at all for any form of modified car. I would suggest once you get the 1UZ in and everthing finalised and drivable get it engineered and take it over the pits and put the supercharger on it later though as long as its engineered I can't see there being a problem besides the look they may give you for beating them. I quite like Brisbane there is a lot more variety and culture to the city but I do miss the roads in Canberra. Some areas around Bribane are simply shocking but the hills and twisties not far out of town make up for it, plenty of area to enjoy some driving and queensland race way isnt that far away either that said you do have wakefield near canberra. I checked out your thread, amazing amount of work you have done on your Z. Can't wait to see it done Any ideas on what color you will paint it when its all done? I saw a Ford Territory today that had a really nice metallic almost gunmetal grey on it I wouldn't half mind, I have a long way to go before I'm anywhere near the painting stage haha. I will be down in Canberra later this year catching up with friends, if your not busy I'd love to come see your car if its running by then. The suspension and subframes are almost identical, besides the shocks the only difference I have spotted is the JZA80 has two brackets on the front and rear subframe the soarer doesn't though in 1994 the soarer got the brackets on the front but i'm not sure about on the rear. Picture below. Here is some eye candy, 1UZ Billet alloy block for a drag car. Will run you around 15 grand, too bad its not water cooled so its pretty much only useful for drag events.