warsZ

Tony...that's why you need to buy my car.

I have a 71' 240Z that I just finished a month ago. It's a 350, 4 bolt main w/ TH350 auto. I've upgraded the suspension and brakes as well. I've put a lot of effort in the swap and it rides and runs great. Body has no rust issues. I'm in Oceanside. 760-583-5839.

Gents - I had my sons sit in the hatch and jacked up the wheel (path of least resistance...it was that or remove springs or drop the A-arm brkts ) and their weight held the car down w/ struts/springs in place. This allowed the car to stay put on the stands while I jacked the hub up through the range of motion. The shaft still has @.40-.50" of play (thoughout the range) so I'm considering this a win!!! I'm surprised at that travel as the shafts were "completely" bottomed out during installation. I was being overly concerned I guess but as this build has been on a budget, I can't afford expensive whoopsees. I'm very excited to get this last hurdle accomplished! This project has been in the making for a year and 4 months now. Like I said, I've researched many articles on this subject and I've redesigned this adapter to simplify manufacturing which would drop the cost from other adapters out there. Using the stock 240Z hub is not the strongest as a Modern motorsports or the like but for us guys that want to drive spirited from time to time and autocross here and there I'm sure it'll be fine. I'll be the beta test and if all works out I can have these manufactured (resonably) and pass any potential savings on to forum members. I'll take pics and post by the weekend. Warren

I'm not able to get the pics via your web path.

I just looked at my outboard CV...removed the cap and noticed the spline was peened in three locations which retained the ball assy. I expected to see a snap ring...! Do I (gently) grind the peened areas off? I'll try the spring removal and "HOPE" I get full wheel travel...if not...has anyone flipped the ball assy 180 degrees and can verify that this works before I (literly) open this can of worms? Thanks a lot everyone...I yeild to your expertice in this matter. Warren

Hmmm...I believe when the hub/lower control arm is in the extended down position this would allow "less" compression to the CV shaft as this would be the longest distance from the diff. When the center line of the hub/lower control arm is raised & level w/ the centerline of the diff openining this would be the shortest distance i.e more CV compression req'd. Even though I was able to assemble the shaft/adapter into place...I jacked the hub assembly up and it went close to the center position (as in the above pics) then the whole car started moving up. I thought that the CV shaft had bottomed out and was lifting the car. Now that I think about it, I had the struts and springs in place so maybe the springs/strut compressed only so far and then lifted the car? Tonight I'll remove the spring and add weight (have my high school boys sit in the rear hatch area )and hopefully I'll get full travel. Any thoughts? Warren

Excellent pics...Thanks! It looks like you're using Modern Motorsports hub/adapter...I wonder if their design creates a different spacing of their rear hub mounting flange than my simple added component. My fitment isn't that it won't assemble but that it's used up most if not all the CV compression. I would hate to damage my diff or anything else. Unfortunately I can't post pics from my computer. I'll try later tonight Thanks again for your response! Regards, Warren

Hi all - I'm having problems fitting my 81'280ZX R200 half shaft swap to my early 71' 240Z hubs. I have used an adapter design from a Z forum site that was said to have been used on plenty of early Z's (240-280) and had no fitment or binding issues what-so-ever. I also realize the longer shaft goes on the passenger side. My half shafts have the splined end that engages into the R200 diff and when fully engaged it is 1" longer than the distance to the rectangular, 4 bolt hub flange (w/ car on jack stands & the struts fully extended down...fully assembled to the car). The adapter has to be .90" wide minimum to "nest" the CV's steel cap which in effect keeps it from hitting the rear hub spline/nut. Soooo...1"+.90"=1.9" which exceeds the CV shaft compression of 1.7". I've surfed many a sites schooling myself about the requirements for this swap and no where has it mentioned anything else to do. All I can see to make this swap work is to disassemble the shafts, cut & weld the shafts to the proper lengths, re-heat treat the shafts and reassemble them. Any help and/or pics of this swap would be GREATLY appreciated! Regards, WarsZ (Warren)

You can buy a Nabco 15/16 master cylinder from Kragen for $45 for years you're requesting.

Ooops 1-1/2 yrs....

My 71' I've been working on for 1-1/2 now. Almost there.

[attach]20355

Your point is a valid one. I'm in the same boat of co$t effectiveness at this time. I bought these from a guy that had them on a Nissan Maxima wagon for about a year. I've inspected them (visually) and see no extra sign of wear. Granted...Porosity of a casting cannot be seen and I'm sure it didn't see the torque of a screeming V8 swap but these wheels look/feel very well made for the price being offered. I have heard of the earlier Sportmaxx wheels breaking (the spindlier spoke series) and they addressed this issue but after a year of constant use on a heavy vehicle w/ a V6...I hope it has proven itself to be a "safe" wheel. So far so good.

I'm running 205/55R/16's in the rear & 205/50R/16's in the front. I have 5 way adjustable Tokicos, Suspension Techniques spring front and rear.

I'm running 16 X 8's (0 offset) all around on my 71' Z and they fit just fine w/ the Toyota 4 piston calipers..they look great too!

I have all the A/C components out of my 71' 240Z available. I'm in Oceanside, Ca email me at warren.harding@uav.com

Wow...timing's everything. Please email me at warren.harding@uav.com. Thanks!!

I have a 300hp sbc (iron heads) going in my 71' 240 and have been on the hunt for springs...I have adjustable Tokio shocks as well. I've been in contact w/ Arizona Z and Suspension Technologies...they are currently out of their springs and won't get any fab'd for some time. I need plug-n-play and don't want to hassle w/ cutting. I'm after a "spirited" driver setup and would appreciate any input for alternitives. Thanks!

sorry about the weak title...my first post anywhere! Thanks for the update and I hope you have a great holiday! I Look forward to talking w/ you when you return.

I'm trying to get a hold of JTR for the past 1-1/2 weeks to no avail. Does anyone know where they might be...vacation? I do get an answering machine but no live body. My 350's ready to get installed but I have no mounts. warsZ