boomguy

Just talked to the machines and he estimates 12-15 thou to clean up the areas. He doesn't advise to weld the block areas that are corroded since it would create bubbles in the steel and the block could crack at those points. I guess a thicker head gasket would help in this situation?

Thats a great tip Madkaw... Thank you for that.

I know my girl isn't"mint" but she still has her original paint and rust is almost non existent and having carted her original motor home from California about 26 years ago I think the two should be reunited at some point. Although her L28 that is in her now is alot of fun I am finding that a more stock configuration would suit me now. I'll include a photo of her at a recent carbs and coffee. As for the block its good to know that I could have those spots welded prior to planing. There is alot of info on L28 piston heights in relation to the deck but not much when referring to an L24 with the higher quench e31 head. The pistons that where in it weren't stock and were shy about .010 from the deck. I have read that ITM pistons pin height are a bit lower than stock which may mean shaving the piston height I guess.

Hi Guys. Quick question about my original matching number block that I am about to rebuild for my 1970 240z. The machine shop that I have taken it to says there is some corrosion on the top of the block and in one of the water passages. They are wanting to deck it until the surface is smooth but they dont know how much they will have to remove. Is it possible to weld these corrosion areas to fill them in prior to surface planing? I am worried that decking too much will open up a bees nest of pistons sitting too high and having to shim the cam towers to take up the slack in the timing chain. Thanks for any replies Chris