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HuD 91gt

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HuD 91gt last won the day on December 1 2019

HuD 91gt had the most liked content!

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About HuD 91gt

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    Vancouver

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  1. Can you get someone to check the timing quickly while it’s running?
  2. Awesome! Are you able to fill us in what rubber bushing was used in replacement?
  3. My wife bought me a retro sound radio a few years ago. Requires trimming your own faceplate but it’s as correct as one could ever ask for. bluetooth, MP3 whatever. Honestly it never get turned on, but looks great. Light green writing really sets it apart.
  4. I once came across an issue where I wasn’t getting enough engagement. It ended up being when I had disassembled the clutch slave (for fun), the piston was pushed too far in and the fluid inlet was not positioned correctly. I forget the exact configuration, but it still moved but would not get the entire range of motion. Fluid was getting sent to a wrong oriface. It took 3 very experienced minds to figure out the issue (well 2, as one of them was me). Ha.
  5. Well done! Glad I’m not the only one where it doesn’t usually start up like on TV! Lol
  6. White smoke can be indicative of burning coolant. Drain the oil, check for contamination. Do a compression check.
  7. As described. Had to notch the booster holes slightly left. Thus hitting the throttle bracket on the firewall. I removed it. I still don’t think I could run a piece of paper between the clutch master and the booster. Incredibly close. I also fabricated an offset clevis for the master cylinder rod to align the brake pedal.
  8. I left Jeff a message on FB with your info.
  9. It would be great to post up some more builds on this forum. Saying that, I should be doing the same! Jeff can be found on Facebook. He’s there pretty often and alive and active in the L series world.
  10. I’ve use that base on the stock hub widths. Using a body panel when trying to get accurate measurements seems a bit loose. Using crossmember mounting points makes sense to me, I’m just curious if anyone had a good an accurate way other then running a square to the ground from said points and making lines. When trying to measure within 1/8”-1/16” it seems being accurate all around is key. I suppose the negative side would be a slight dog walk stance going down the road.
  11. On the note for string alignments, how are you guys finding the center of the vehicle? I did a string alignment, based on all wheels being equal width. With adjustable control arms, I figure finding the actual center is crucial.
  12. That’s a big project. Good for you!
  13. My guess would be a vacuum leak too. But since your map is probably a bit of a mess, pending your IGNITION advance at idle is quite low, it’s possible coming down the RPM range the car is quite a bit happier at the higher ignition advance in the higher rev range. Basically establishing a higher idle.... until it eventually stumbles and falls down further to your original “idle”. Setting ignition advance below your planned Idle speed, a couple degrees higher is a way to stabilize your idle so when it falls in RPM, it automatically bumps up to your planned idle. Eg. 500RPM - 20 degrees 800RPM - 17 degrees (Planned idle) 1500RPM - 25 degrees If things are really out of whack, your engine could be much happier at 1300RPM and 20ish degrees of timing to the point where it just stays there.
  14. Deutsch DT connectors are far superior to the metripack which I used on most of my build. Similar cost too. I’d definitely go that route. It’s going to take 3 full rewirings a before I’m completely happy. Haha.
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