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beebeecivic

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Posts posted by beebeecivic

  1. Most of the European, Japanese, and domestic cars and trucks with Multi Port EFI from the '80's through the '90 and even into the 2000's also use this same style BOSCH connector and are interchangeable, (that style of EFI connector is probably the most widely used two pin electrical connector in the world). A revised version of that connector was used on late '80's through '90's GM products such as H body, X body cars like the Pontiac, Buick, Olds, Chevy FWD cars and use a quick release style clip. Especially for use in an injector test/cleaning rig, this quick release push style clip vs the clumsy pick-and-bust the connector style clip is much nicer, quicker, and easier to use. I use these on all my customers EFI Z cars as well as my injector cleaning/test rig. They are plentiful and cheap, used and new. If you hit the wrecking yard and get the GM ones used, they are usually still in pretty good shape as they seem to hold up much better than the Hitachi versions from the '70's as used on our Z cars and they are numbered 1-6, (not that it matter's the Datusn EFI is batch fire, they all open and close at the same time). :wink:

     

    Another Member of HBZ, Matt Cramer of DIY-Autotune sells these connectors new, with pigtail ready to use or just the pins and concetor ready for you to build your own pigtail.

     

    http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html

    http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-ev1-p-111.html

     

     

     

    Hope that helps,

    Paul

     

    InjConn.jpg

    Thank you BRAP!! exactly what im looking for!

  2. I personally know this guy, and he is a HybridZ member.

     

    I am using his connector kit on my car, they work great. heat shrink and dielectric grease are also included.

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/injector-connector-kit-6pc-datsun-280z-280zx-300zx-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ290452375892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

     

    wow thats a awesome kit! but i am jus looking for one connector. Reason why im asking is because I want to be able to go to the junk yard and snip one off. Good stuff tho!

     

     

    Guaranteed to work on:

    NISSAN / DATSUN 6 CYL

    1988-1987 200SX 3.0L (VG30E)

    1983-1979 280ZX 2.8L (L28E)

    1983-1981 280ZX 2.8L (L28ET) Turbo

    1978-1975 280Z 2.8L (L28E)

    1989-1984 300ZX 3.0L (VG30E)

    1989-1984 300ZX 3.0L (VG30ET)

    1984-1977 810 2.4L (L24E)

    1984-1981 Maxima 2.4L (L24E)

    1986-1985 Maxima 3.0L (VG30)

    NISSAN / DATSUN 4 CYL

    1988-1984 200SX 1.8L (CA18ET) Turbo

    1988-1984 200SX 2.0L (CA20E)

    1981-1980 200SX 2.0L (Z20E)

    1983-1982 200SX 2.2L (Z22E)

    1989-1985 Multi 2.0L (CA20E)

    1984-1983 Pulsar 1.5L (E15ET) Turbo

    1987 Pulsar NX 1.6L (CA16DE)

    1989-1988 Pulsar NX 1.8L (CA180)

    1989-1986 Stanza 2.0L (CA20E)

    1989-1985 Stanza Wagon 2.0L (CA20E)

     

    found my answer

  3. So I am in the process of building a injector cleaning rig that will open up the injector by battery and I am looking for injector plugs. I went to nissan and asked and it cost around 30 bucks for a connector! My question of the day is. What cars share the same plug as my 280 EFI Z?

  4. My suggestion is to do the ecu pin test for your water temp sensor and make sure it reads good. Double check that your temp sensor and thermotime are not plugged in backwards. The temp sensor should be black wires and time should be green wiring. That is what was causing mine to backfire out of intake.

     

    I have made sure the wire was correctly plugged in. I will do the ECU test today.

  5. If indeed you did disconnect the water temp sensor then someone had the wrong wire running to it as it has absolutely nothing to do with the ecu or how the engine runs. It has one function make the gage tell you the coolant temperature ( of course with stock gage it is problematical whether the temp it shows has anything to do with reality). Assuming you have a zx you didn't see fit to make the type car you are talking about available to the general public.

     

     

    Ooops sorry I have a 1978 280z EFI. I read in the EFI bible that " the water temp sensor allows the control unit to richen the mixture until the engine arrives at operating temperature. While the engine is warming up, the oil is thicker; there is more resistance, so more fuel is needed. This sensor is just like the sensor which controls the water temp gauge in the dash. That is , it changes as the engine temp changes." (pg 19 EFI bible)

  6. SO i have been battling the EFI system for quite sometime now and Yesterday my cousin stopped by my house and suggested that my Water Temp Sensor was causing all the EFI problems that I have. Well today I tried removing it for testing.. rather I snapped the connector off. Anyways after replacing the Water Temp sensor the car felt the same. I tried timing it but the car wont even stay on long enough for me to do so. After all the frustration I felt that I am going to take a break. SO i thought for the hell of it I disconnected the Water temp sensor and Thermotime switch. After i took off the thermotime switch the car ran the same, but when I removed the water temp VOLIA! the car ran... and no back fires nothing! what can be the problem that causes this?

  7. I am looking for a 280 rust free shell. Can be a complete car, but I only need a shell. A non-running 240/260 is also a possibility. My shell has way too much rust from sitting in a dirt floor barn for ~15 years without moving, so I am looking for a rust free shell to use as a base.

     

    Kevin

     

    how much are you willing to pay?

  8. Is the pump below or above the fuel line from the tank? I have heard of people putting smaller fuel pumps before their main pump to "push" fuel into the main pump if the main pump is unable to get gas consistently.

     

     

    The pump is below or at the same level. Its wierd because it causes my motor to idle inconsistently.

  9. I have noticed that my fuel pump goes in and out like itll give gas one second and the next second itll stop then itll go back on. Not that it completely shuts but it is just wierd to me that it does not flow consistently. Can it be my pump?

     

    Pump is a new walbro 255

  10. Hey guys, I am having trouble removing the Water Temp Sensor on my EFI 280z. The connector is in the way of my deep socket and the space is tight. Can someone share their experience or technique on how to remove it. I am frustrated and i cannot find procedures in the FSM. All help is appreciated thank you!

     

     

    -bee

  11. I have 1976 280Z but I'm in North Phoenix, AZ. Looking to get around 1500 for it. Email if you're interested at crowbarsauce@yahoo.com and I'll send some pictures and info.

     

     

    I have a 78 280z that I need to sale (moving to a smaller home with no car space). The motor runs but needs a tune up . There are no surface rust at all. The previous owner sprayed it primer grey (bad prep job)so the primer is flaking off

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