mac9k5

Hello, i have a '71 240z and its got a lot of electrical issues that i was hoping would all have a common connector or one thing that could explain all of these problems. Well; the head lights , the radio, the flashers, the hazard lights, the stop lights and starter all don't work(or get power). Now that is a lot of problems but they seem like there might be one solution (I hope), thanks for any ideas. keep in mind these all broke on the same day, that is why I am thinking there is one cause for all of this, and yes i have checked all the fuses.

To start of i have a 280z and i have checked all the fuses and bulbs and some of the connections. Is there any one connection or cluster of wire that can cause the rear right brake light, rear left turn signal and front right running light to not work? any help or ideas are appreciated.

alright, so when i am driving my 280z at around 60 or higher and i am in gear going straight or going straight and braking there is no problem but if i am in neutral or not giving it gas at around 60 the back right side of that car starts to vibrate rather badly also when i turn right at high speed it does this, a while ago i changed the differential but recently some on threw a brick at my car when i was on the free way and i drove over it quite dramatically. i am out of ideas i have looked under the car and nothing is bent or loose so, any ideas?

Thank you, I will give that a try sorry for the poor grammar.

I very easily could of messed up the bench bleed of the master cylinder, would that do this funky, stuff if so i will check that out.

Thanks man i will give more bleeding a try, but the master cylinder is new and the car has even ware, for now.

Yo I have been having this problem for a while the car is a 280z and I just can not figure this out. The first half of the brake pedal is soft (like stepping on nothing) but the brakes actually work for the most part in the soft section, not very well mind you but they are there. And the rest of the pedal is just regular hard pedal like what you would expect but if i step on it hard enough to get to the hard part the pedal likes to stick. Also if i press on it fast it feels really sluggish and kinda hard, its weird. I have changed the master cylinder i have bled it countless times to no a vale and i replaced the front right caliper (it was leaking) and did not help, although now it does tend to the right when i brake. so any ideas as to why the pedal is so weird?

It worked man the clicking is gone, thanks.

Thanks man, I just changed the diff so that makes sense.

Well, when ever i drive slow,1-5 mph, i hear this rapid tapping, clicking noise from the right rear of the car and when i drive faster,50 and up, and i clutch in i get this vibration through out the car. I thought it was the half shaft so i changed it out with one from a junk yard (I know, I have little money) but it didn't change, is this other shaft bad too or is it something I am over looking? thanks everybody

Hello, I am not sure what is going on. When i press the brake pedal in my 280z slowly the pedel will just go to the floor with no braking power or fight. but when i stomp on the pedal the thing will stop on a dime or lock the wheels IE works well. I have bled the brakes countless times trying to make them better and they seem to get worse over time untill i bleed them again. any advice or info. Thanks.

hey i fixed the car dying with gas problem (timing needed to be more precise) and the smoke coming from the tail pipe has stopped but the really problem is the oil smoke coming from the valve cover. I did a compression test and every thing came back good mostly (Cylinder 3 is crap) mostly i am thinking of going through and checking all the valve clearance and puting some of that lucas stop oil leaking piston ring blow by stuff and see if that helps Thanks every body

hey so i set the timing and now the car starts and idles but if i step on the gas pedel it stalls not to mention there is white smoke coming from the tail pipe and smoke that starts to come from the engine after a minute or so thanks for even helping me get this far

ok so i did as you said it is not on time not perfectly any way, but now comes the part where i look dumb i put it at 10 degrees before tdc but i dont know how to set the rotor to be firing on cylinder one, it is between one and two and i do not know how to move it and i am not sure if there are other things that need to be set diffrently aswell (I have no experinece with engines)

It is back firing some times when i try to start it i dont think it is intake firing i checked the timing it is fine and i got injector pulse from the injector plugs them selfs, thanks every body for helping me with this