mac9k5

Hello, i have a '71 240z and its got a lot of electrical issues that i was hoping would all have a common connector or one thing that could explain all of these problems. Well; the head lights , the radio, the flashers, the hazard lights, the stop lights and starter all don't work(or get power). Now that is a lot of problems but they seem like there might be one solution (I hope), thanks for any ideas. keep in mind these all broke on the same day, that is why I am thinking there is one cause for all of this, and yes i have checked all the fuses.

To start of i have a 280z and i have checked all the fuses and bulbs and some of the connections. Is there any one connection or cluster of wire that can cause the rear right brake light, rear left turn signal and front right running light to not work? any help or ideas are appreciated.

alright, so when i am driving my 280z at around 60 or higher and i am in gear going straight or going straight and braking there is no problem but if i am in neutral or not giving it gas at around 60 the back right side of that car starts to vibrate rather badly also when i turn right at high speed it does this, a while ago i changed the differential but recently some on threw a brick at my car when i was on the free way and i drove over it quite dramatically. i am out of ideas i have looked under the car and nothing is bent or loose so, any ideas?

Thank you, I will give that a try sorry for the poor grammar.

I very easily could of messed up the bench bleed of the master cylinder, would that do this funky, stuff if so i will check that out.

Thanks man i will give more bleeding a try, but the master cylinder is new and the car has even ware, for now.

Yo I have been having this problem for a while the car is a 280z and I just can not figure this out. The first half of the brake pedal is soft (like stepping on nothing) but the brakes actually work for the most part in the soft section, not very well mind you but they are there. And the rest of the pedal is just regular hard pedal like what you would expect but if i step on it hard enough to get to the hard part the pedal likes to stick. Also if i press on it fast it feels really sluggish and kinda hard, its weird. I have changed the master cylinder i have bled it countless times to no a vale and i replaced the front right caliper (it was leaking) and did not help, although now it does tend to the right when i brake. so any ideas as to why the pedal is so weird?

It worked man the clicking is gone, thanks.

Thanks man, I just changed the diff so that makes sense.

Well, when ever i drive slow,1-5 mph, i hear this rapid tapping, clicking noise from the right rear of the car and when i drive faster,50 and up, and i clutch in i get this vibration through out the car. I thought it was the half shaft so i changed it out with one from a junk yard (I know, I have little money) but it didn't change, is this other shaft bad too or is it something I am over looking? thanks everybody

Hello, I am not sure what is going on. When i press the brake pedal in my 280z slowly the pedel will just go to the floor with no braking power or fight. but when i stomp on the pedal the thing will stop on a dime or lock the wheels IE works well. I have bled the brakes countless times trying to make them better and they seem to get worse over time untill i bleed them again. any advice or info. Thanks.

hey i fixed the car dying with gas problem (timing needed to be more precise) and the smoke coming from the tail pipe has stopped but the really problem is the oil smoke coming from the valve cover. I did a compression test and every thing came back good mostly (Cylinder 3 is crap) mostly i am thinking of going through and checking all the valve clearance and puting some of that lucas stop oil leaking piston ring blow by stuff and see if that helps Thanks every body

hey so i set the timing and now the car starts and idles but if i step on the gas pedel it stalls not to mention there is white smoke coming from the tail pipe and smoke that starts to come from the engine after a minute or so thanks for even helping me get this far

ok so i did as you said it is not on time not perfectly any way, but now comes the part where i look dumb i put it at 10 degrees before tdc but i dont know how to set the rotor to be firing on cylinder one, it is between one and two and i do not know how to move it and i am not sure if there are other things that need to be set diffrently aswell (I have no experinece with engines)

It is back firing some times when i try to start it i dont think it is intake firing i checked the timing it is fine and i got injector pulse from the injector plugs them selfs, thanks every body for helping me with this

my water temp sensor is new and i have been looking for breaks in the harness for weeks now

yo i got the fuel pressure and it said 36psi but the thing still wont run

thanks man i will give that a shot

I had a mechanic do the timing, and I do have the Hayne's book. I think it is not getting enough fuel but i am not sure what do to about that.

i have an 280z which for a while now has not been running but there were so many other things to fix i just put off the engine till the end. A while ago i had a mechanic look at the engine tell me that the injectors were not getting a pulse and the computer was shot so i got a new computer the injectos have pulse again but the car still didn't run so i changed the gas got new spark plugs wires and dizzy cap (they were shot any way) but now all it does is just pop a couple times when ever i try and start it but now enough to sustain its self. What do i do? Any help is much appreciated.

hey the other day I replaced the water temp sensor in the thermostat housing (In an L28e) I drained the coolant to below the level of the sensor but water still came out when I pulled it out well I changed the sensor and when it turned on the car the engine sounded uneven (it is loud and usually sounds like bub bub bub bub bub bub bub but now it sounds like bub bum bub bum bub bum bub bum) I can hear this little tapping sound near the front of the engine around cylinder 1 or 2 and the power on the car is just gone the thing will not launch for crap please help

it does but it also has a bunch of 280z parts and 240z parts, is there a vin printed on the chassis or a place where it could not be pried off i am sorry this thing has been racking my mind

I bought a 1973 240z for less then a grand from a sketchy guy and I have begun to worry that he dressed it up to be indiscernible from a 280z and he swapped the vins or some thing is their any thing I can check that was only on the 240zs (it was sold with an l28e so that does not work) thanks for any help this has been racking my brain